KLR250 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Bad Company, May 10, 2008.

  1. A Seabee

    A Seabee Adventurer

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    Dec 25, 2011
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    13
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    No, I'm retired. I was at NAB Coronado. Went about 175 miles today. up and over Otay mountain, and back then out and around east county
    IMG_5932.jpg
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  2. greasyfatman

    greasyfatman Long timer

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    I have that same color bike.
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  3. A Seabee

    A Seabee Adventurer

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    Dec 25, 2011
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    SoCal
    couple more pics from today's ride. the 2 pics with fog/smoke are looking south towards Mexico
    IMG_5917.jpg IMG_5918.jpg IMG_5923.jpg IMG_5927.jpg IMG_5926.jpg
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  4. nails1

    nails1 Been here awhile

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    Feb 21, 2008
    Oddometer:
    358
    Location:
    New Mexico
    I got into d/s camping by riding out to Anza Borrego from Pendleton. Bought a brand new Suzuki SP370!

    SoCal is a good place for d/s.
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  5. greasyfatman

    greasyfatman Long timer

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    Spentva Christmas in Anza Borrego maybe 1998.
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  6. nails1

    nails1 Been here awhile

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    Feb 21, 2008
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    New Mexico
    Mine was more like '78. Woke up to a running barranca and mud as far as the eye could see. On the way back, took a loop through Palomar, 18" of snow. The good ol' days.

    I just checked the specs. That SP370 had about the same weight and HP as our KLRs. (Okay, they aren't much newer.)
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  7. triptych

    triptych KLR250

    Joined:
    May 1, 2017
    Oddometer:
    64
    Location:
    down under
    Has anyone had any success welding up cracked plastics? If you have, can you confirm whether the plastics on the 250 are PP? I haven't got any test rods right now...
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  8. nails1

    nails1 Been here awhile

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    I was hoping for some response. I plan to get into this kind of welding.
  9. A Seabee

    A Seabee Adventurer

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    I've only heard of others doing it. would like to see the results.
  10. nails1

    nails1 Been here awhile

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    New Mexico
    Plastic Identification might be helpful. I understand that you have to know what kind of plastic to pick either a glue or a filler rod. I think ABS is the only kind that's easy to identify (see if acetone melts it) and the only plastic with a practically effective glue ... because it's actually chemical welding.
  11. greasyfatman

    greasyfatman Long timer

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    @Jmrturtle

    where are you man? This is the thread with all the klr250 know how.
  12. enumclaw

    enumclaw I just....don't know

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2008
    Oddometer:
    981
    Location:
    Outer fringes of the Puget Sound Region
    Alright I need some input from the gurus. I got this 1991 model years ago when my daughter expressed interest in learning to ride. I had a different version for my son when he got the itch, and it turned out to be a great starter for him, so I found another for my daughter. Turns out she wasn't so interested after all, and in reality that is probably a good thing in the bigger picture. Anyway, I proceeded to rebuild the bike from the ground up for her use prior to her change of heart. Some of those details follow, but the complete details would no doubt be boring to most, and lead to clicking on before getting to my point.

    Attempting to be brief, I had the cylinder bored 0.020" over, with a new piston/ring/pin set from Wiseco. Also new intake and exhaust valves. While the head was off I refreshed everything; cam chain, guides, tensioner, water pump rebuild, chain, sprockets, etc. You get the idea. I also put progressive springs in the fork and stuck a 650 shock on it. I love riding the thing. But it's an absolute pain in the ass to start. And that has kept me from riding it very much the last few years. Turn the petcock on, gas is fresh, adjust enrichener to known sweet spot, and kick away. Yes, I seek the compression stroke, etc. When it finally starts to fire after at least 10-12 kicks, it seemingly just barely putts along, and the slightest adjustment to the enrichener setting will likely cause it to sputter and die, and it will take a few more kicks to get it going again. After it's running for 30-45 seconds it will run fine at a normal enriched rpm, and am able to start dialing the lever back.

    With the head work I have tried a few carb changes to try to get it to an easier and reliable starting routine. I initially started with 122 main, 38 pilot, 2 turns out on the air screw. I eventually moved to 125/40/2.5 turns, and 2 shims under the needle. The valves are in spec. Nothing fancy about the air filter, and the snorkel is intact. Stock exhaust also. Once it starts and warms up, it has never missed a beat. But the starting pain is what led me to buy a DRz with a button. :D

    So it sits, and a couple times a year I'll get it started and ride it for some miles, turn the petcock off, and let it idle until the carb runs dry. Then I'll push it back to its spot, and get on the DRz or the 'strom. More than a few times over the last few years I've thought I should just sell it and let someone else work it out, but I haven't been able to bring myself to do that. And now I have an off-grid cabin in the boonies, and a bike that doesn't need a battery to get started it turns out is a pretty desirable thing to have after all.

    The 250 that I had previously for my son started on the first kick every time, unless your foot slipped in the process, haha. So I never had the "opportunity" to open up that carb and see what jets were installed.

    So I come seeking inspiration and guidance from the great Obiwans!

    Thanks for reading.
  13. greasyfatman

    greasyfatman Long timer

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    Has the carb boot shrank? And how is it retained mine has never been hard to start.
  14. enumclaw

    enumclaw I just....don't know

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
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    Replaced the carb boot with new when I did the rebuild. It is still soft and pliable, held in place with the standard wrap around springs.
  15. A Seabee

    A Seabee Adventurer

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    What about the other side of the carb, the "mount" or flange?
  16. A Seabee

    A Seabee Adventurer

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    So, I got tired of my tired plastics and tried the heat gun. the results were less than desirable. So Krylon makes a line of camo paints that work on plastics. Couldn't find the light green olive drab, so I went with this color. I had to scrub and sand the dead plastic with wet 100 grit wet/dry sandpaper, and scotchbrite. It was a lot of work. I stitched up the crack in my fairing with zip ties
    IMG_6043.jpg
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  17. 8gv

    8gv Long timer

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    Nov 22, 2009
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    CT exile now in NH
    My experience:

    It would not start without heart attack level effort and two break on a couch.

    I found the plastic enrichment (not really a choke but whatever...) cable part was cracked.

    Once replaced it started with a half kick or a one swipe of my hand.

    The carb jetting and adjustments were left stock.

    I think the cracked part allowed air to enter the carb thus cancelling the desired pull on fuel.

    If yours is cracked, wrap it up in plumber's putty to see if it changes anything.
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  18. greasyfatman

    greasyfatman Long timer

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    Yup forgot all about how I fucked that nut up the first time.
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  19. enumclaw

    enumclaw I just....don't know

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2008
    Oddometer:
    981
    Location:
    Outer fringes of the Puget Sound Region
    Thanks for the input.

    I replaced the plastic nut with the Steadman metal part, so it's not an issue. That, plus the fact that when running it responds as you would expect when moving the enricher lever.

    As well, the carb mount to the engine is new also, and by all indications appears to be a proper fit.

    Thanks again, keep trying! :D
  20. A Seabee

    A Seabee Adventurer

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    Are you positive the cams are timed correctly?
    and modern ethanol gasoline sucks. if it sits at all, it absorbs water molecules that distill into a green plug in the pilot jet.