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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by klm4755, Jun 3, 2007.
Yeah, whatever dude.
Larry, you've owned a KLR long enough to know the difference in the pre-96 and post-95 methods of mounting the front sprocket. What gives?
Those shims will fit on the newer model's shaft, but that is not what they are intended for.
I just reassembled my 99 a week ago with the new piston, cylinder, and Fat Head. Runs freakin' great.
Yes, but those of us in the know understand why we're using them on the newer bikes. Go back and look at the pics in this thread and you might understand.
Why don't you drop the E-thug routine? Very few appreciate it. Attack, attack, attack..get called on it and claim "kidding" like always. Can I do it too? Just kidding earlier..you're my bestest buddy.
Like this Stu:
The original poster did say "if needed". I once found a sprocket for $3 and had to shim it.
I'm no thug, man. GMAFB.
If I see something that I think is mechanically incorrect, I should just keep quiet about it?
Do you really think that those shims are necessary on a late model KLR?
It's not exactly aerospace tolerances elsewhere now, is it.
I'm curious Larry. You ever make it to any Tech Days and give anything back to the KLR community?
Larryboy took the time out of his trip to Washington to help me with my doohickey mod in his brothers garage. I dont know too many guys that would do that Stu.
Stu, I'm sorry for blowing up. I was out of line and none of this is worth it. I gave myself a day off from the net to think and it's not right to for me to get bent out of shape about nothing.
Again..I'm sincerely sorry.
Geez guys, klm4755 went out of his way to share / document something that many non-tech oriented owners might be able to use, added his technique for what he saw as a solution to a possible problem (YMMV), and he get's popped over it.
Is he right or wrong by bending the washer? I don't really care, as it's just his technique for solving what he sees as an possible problem. That's called innovation.
I appreciate technical accuracy as much as anyone and the effort that all folks make to ensure it here and at other forums.
I sprayed mine with penetrating oil the day before, came off easily.
Yeah, whatever dude.
I apologize for being pedantic and childish.
The best method to remove the front sprocket retaining nut is to us an air impact.
The second best is a breaker bar. You can stand on the rear brake to lock the rear wheel and let the chain hold the front sprocket still for you while you (or preferably a helper) crank(s) on the bar.
Just don't put it on with an impact. 5 guys and a 12 foot cheater pipe won't take that nut off. Ask me how I know.
oser oser oser You guys are killing me.oser oser oser
I did all sorts of things to help break off the nut. I parked against a building. I sat on the bike. I depressed the brakes. I had a friend help. I tried an impact wrench at 225psi. I used a 4' extension. Nothing worked. I could always get the rear wheel to spin. Eventually I even sheared a 3/8" drive breaker bar.
so what did I do?
I strapped on an old chain (so I didn't damage my serviceable one). I padlocked the chain to the rear sprocket so it would only advance so far. I pried like hell with a 1/2" breaker and my 4' extension. The damn nut finally came loose.
Work smart not hard. A lesson learned late.
I learned from working on a 40 year old snow thrower. I had to spray some of those parts every night for a week before they came apart.
But now I have a 1970 Ariens that Tim the Toolman Taylor would be proud of - replaced the 5 hp Tecumseh with a 7.5hp OHV B&S!
Tool Time was the best. I still have a well-worn Binford Tools t-shirt.
Thanks for the tips CA STU! You have a kind way with words.
Wow I missed this thread until today.
"I'm curious Larry. You ever make it to any Tech Days and give anything back to the KLR community? "
Define ignorant irony.
Larryboy has been at all three of the tech days I have attended. He always brings enough shims to adjust everybodys valves, helps work on all the bikes in attendance etc. etc. etc.
Funny! I can't quite figure out the motive of this Ca STU member. He made such a personal attack(s) for such a small issue? He then comes out with full barrels questioning the techincal competence and contributions of the author of the thread and those who responded. He must be a pleasure to work with.
Hey... Who you callin' a moron? Moron! I carry the 15T and 14T with me wherever I go. the 15T is the best compromise, especially for prolonged highway, but I typically leave my 14T on most of the time, because it's great for blasting around mountain roads and venturing into unchartered territory.
The prevailing torque nut makes life infinitely easier for fast swaps when necessary though!
Today, after about 100 miles I heard strange noises by my left foot. After much inspection I found the nut loose!
How could this have happened? Bike has 14,500 miles. I have never lossened the nut. Previous owner put 9,000 miles on the bike before I bought it. Does this mean he left the nut loose? If so, would I have noticed before I got to 14,500?