KLR650 Only Thread......

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by willys, Nov 19, 2011.

  1. ausfahrt

    ausfahrt mach schnell Supporter

    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2008
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    3,918
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    Vermont
    Do any of you guys use those cheap Chinese foot pegs that they sell on ebay? Do they hold up?

    I am thinking about getting a set, anything would be an improvement over stock! I just don't know if I can trust them for standing....
  2. Bell driver

    Bell driver Long timer

    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2010
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    1,421
    Location:
    Germany, Nordish By Nature.
    I have a set of those €20 china thingies.
    Just did a 6000+ mile run down to Morocco with quite a bit of standing. I'm 280lbs with gear and they hold up well.
    I also have them on my XR650L and they work equally well.

    [​IMG]
  3. jsinclair

    jsinclair Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2014
    Oddometer:
    243
    I too have two sets in use , they both have held up without issue.
  4. jjxtrider

    jjxtrider questionable

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    Halfway to hell (WI.)
    I have a set on all my bikes , they've all been good , even have 1 aluminum set . I have seen a photo of one that the guy hit a large rock with the footpeg , it was bent back and sort of smeared but never cracked or broke. The Chinese have it right in this case.
  5. ausfahrt

    ausfahrt mach schnell Supporter

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    Thanks for the feedback on the foot pegs, fellas.:thumb That's all I needed to hear, I'm ordering a set now.:ricky
  6. GreatWhiteNorth

    GreatWhiteNorth Long timer

    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2009
    Oddometer:
    5,565
    Location:
    Winterpeg - site of flatness beyond belief
    Rear suspension links... tried to find the lengths of the various links on-line, and discovered surprisingly little info as to actual center-to-center lengths. I'm lucky enough to have Gen 1, Gen 2, and Eagle-Mike raising and lowering links on hand, so thought I'd share that info here:

    - Gen 1 ('94): 5"
    - Gen 2 ('08): 5 3/8th"
    - E-M Gen 1 lowering links: ?
    - E-M Gen 1 raising links RL-1: 4 3/4"
    - E-M Gen 2 lowering links 8LL-1: 5 3/4"
    - E-M Gen 2 raising links 8RL-1: 5 1/8"

    For tall guys riding Gen 2 KLRs, installing Gen 1 rear suspension links will jack the back end up a bit.

    It would be interesting to know if any of the post '08 Gen 2 KLRs have different length links... maybe the 2014.5 "new edition" for example. From Wiki: "The Uni-Trak rear linkage suspension were upgraded to provide a 63% increase spring rate and to increase the firmness of the rebound damping by 83%."

    How'd they do that?
  7. RideAbout

    RideAbout Mentally Retired

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    May 3, 2004
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    2,870
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    Oregon
    Ooooh, that's one I haven't tried........a Whistle!
  8. GreatWhiteNorth

    GreatWhiteNorth Long timer

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    The whistle is from the tribal knowledge department.
  9. jjxtrider

    jjxtrider questionable

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    Halfway to hell (WI.)
  10. One Fat Roach

    One Fat Roach honey badger

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    Mar 23, 2013
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    2,355
    Location:
    Washington

    Yep, definitely remember that o ring. The bike got a new one each time. If I remember you guys helped walk me through the process twice. I wouldn't be surprised to learn one of the seals is why I'm getting oil in my coolant. I like working on my bike but I'm just awful at it. I'll have to wait to get use of my left hand, a few more weeks, before I can mess with the bike.
    The carb is simple, I understand that but I can mess up the easiest things. My carb looked fine and nothing out of the ordinary. My issue is the tuning it to find the sweet spot so she runs. I've always had a very capable mechanic do that work for me.
  11. Argentian

    Argentian Been here awhile

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    May 26, 2012
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    West Kootenays, BC, Canada
    I just sat on a buddy's 2014.5 the other day and it sure seemed taller. I didn't get down there and measure anything though. Also his was bare bones stock and not carrying many pounds of junk like I always do, nor do I know what his preload was set at.
  12. KLR_B

    KLR_B n00b

    Joined:
    Nov 26, 2015
    Oddometer:
    1
    Location:
    Atlanta
    2013 Kawasaki Klr 650, Like new, Lightly used....Only 1,650 miles, only street ridden, has not been in the dirt. Excellent condition. Never dropped or abused. Nothing broken, and no dents. Fresh full synthetic oil/filter change 250 mile ago. Extras include: - Smoked touring windscreen - Front crash bars - Rear crash bars/panniers - Aluminum skid plate - Fork brace - KLX needle & jet kit - Drilled slide - Tank bag - Saddle bags - Cruise control - 12 volt accessory power port - New grips. $5,299.00 Atlanta

    Attached Files:

  13. mikehailwood

    mikehailwood Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2005
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    333
    Location:
    St. Louis, MO / Estes Park, CO
    Looks like 2008-2010 use the same link parts #'s. And the 2011-2016 (including NE) use the same link part #'s. And this information provides more questions than answers.
    GreatWhiteNorth likes this.
  14. Bell driver

    Bell driver Long timer

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    Location:
    Germany, Nordish By Nature.
    The bone lenghts is engraved. My 2008 reads 136 which is the length in mm. Problem can be solved by some 2011-2016 owner just reading the number off them and post it here please.
  15. Tsotsie

    Tsotsie Semi-reformed Tsotsi Supporter

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    For those who might not know the origin of the saying;

    "British Dictionary definitions for bells and whistles
    bells and whistles
    plural noun
    1.
    additional features or accessories which are nonessential but very attractive: my car has all the latest bells and whistles
    2.
    additions, such as options or warranties, made to a financial product to increase its market appeal
    Word Origin
    C20: from the bells and whistles which used to decorate fairground organs"
    RideAbout likes this.
  16. GreatWhiteNorth

    GreatWhiteNorth Long timer

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    That makes sense. The '08 Gen 2 links I have, they have P/N 136-2 on 'em. 136mm = 5.35"

    The Gen 1 links that I have don't seem to have a P/N on 'em.
  17. Tsotsie

    Tsotsie Semi-reformed Tsotsi Supporter

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    Oil in coolant?
    It appears your focus has been on the water pump side? There are 3 seal down there. An oil seals that prevents oil coming out of the motor. A ceramic and carbon spring loaded seal as well as an O ring to seal the shaft. That seals the coolant side. There is a gap between both seals leading to the single weep hole separating both sides and seals. If the engine oil seal leaks, oil will drip out for the weep hole. If coolant is weeping out of the same hole, the pump side seal is leaking. The likely hood of all 3 seals being bad is remote, unless all 3 were incorrectly installed.

    I have not read back. If you have oil in coolant (radiator etc.), that indicates an issue with your head gasket seal.
    One Fat Roach likes this.
  18. Vegtamr

    Vegtamr Faster than you Think

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2008
    Oddometer:
    25
    Location:
    Seattle
    A buddy of mine is currently stuck in Baker City with a blown rear shock on his '05 KLR. No shop in Eastern Oregon that he can locate seems to have the parts on hand. If anyone down that way has knowledge of who may have the parts (or if you have an even marginally usable spare you can part with to get him home to Bend) please message me directly or reply to this post - you can also email at j.slocum.rappaport@gmail.com.

    As he said. "It's like a three-legged dog, it still moves just not real fast..."

    Please cross post as you see fit - I posted to the PNW riders subforum here on ADV.

    Thanks

    Joshua
  19. rarepartbuilder

    rarepartbuilder redemption gypsy

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    New Brunswick Canada
    roc
    Rocky mountain ATV sells the seal head for the KLR shock... why not just prepay and drop ship the seal head to a dealership..// service shop? as a donor shock would be 75% of the same effort {plus a donor shock may need to be picked up shipped changed etc etc}
    part link HERE

    video for the rear shock rebuild ... even specifies the shock oil to use etc etc...
    video link : HERE
    GreatWhiteNorth and JustinOther like this.
  20. GreatWhiteNorth

    GreatWhiteNorth Long timer

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
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    Location:
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    "If you have oil in coolant (radiator etc.), that indicates an issue with your head gasket seal." Not true. The oil spills out of the cam bearing journals, bathes the valve shims and cams, drains off into 4 holes (I've pointed out one of those holes in this picture), into horizontal oil return galleries which dump out into the cam chain tunnel (lubricating the cam chain). Oil doesn't go thru the head gasket around the cylinder area at all.

    In this pic you'll see I've threaded red/white wire thru those oil return galleries.

    [​IMG]
    MtnRubi and JustinOther like this.