KLR650 Only Thread......

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by willys, Nov 19, 2011.

  1. Tsotsie

    Tsotsie Semi-reformed Tsotsi Supporter

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    As the book says.

    For adjusting the light sideways (horizontal), look under the right side (facing forward from the seat) of the bottom of the head light assembly next to the right fork. You will see the adjuster as described. Use a flash light. Easy to get at.

    Vertical, as described, you must first remove the windshield. On the left side (facing forward) on the low beam side, the adjuster is there a few inches down.

    If your vertical adjustment is out, where is your rear shock pre-load? If set too light for your weight, the rear of the bike will sag making the vertical adjustment too high.
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  2. sasho

    sasho Dual Personality

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    Thank you. Clearly explained. I couldn't tell from the pictures in the manual what was where.
  3. Hack'dTiger

    Hack'dTiger n00b schn00b

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    Ran a search, but my symptoms don't seem to follow the traditional patterns. :dunno

    Gen 1 model (2007), ~40k miles. Recently my fan stopped coming on at it's regularly scheduled temp. I've been running a TrailTech vapor for thousands of miles, and have it programmed to flash an orange light at 215°F where the fan typically kicks on. It's also programmed to flash red when the temp reaches 235°F, and this indicator was what alarmed me to a fan issue.

    After troubleshooting, I'm stumped. I can jump the fan switch wire to ground, and the fan comes on. I've swapped the relays (starter/fan). Bike still fires, and fan still works. I've jumped wires directly at the relay, and the fan comes on. I've ohm checked the fuse(s), and they pass. The glass fuse was replaced with the blade kit years ago. I've also done ohm checks on the wiring, including ground, and everything has continuity. I've also checked the fan switch continuity, and it checks out when heat is applied via my butane torch. This check was done on the bench, and also done with the switch connected to wiring (not installed in radiator) with heat applied. The fan comes on in all those instances.

    However, once the switch is installed into the radiator and everything is up to appropriate temps, the fan refuses to come on...even when reaching indicated temps well above what should be needed. The coolant temp reading comes from an inline sensor that talks to the TrailTech. I'm also running a ThermoBob, and the thermostat was changed last Fall. The only thing that I haven't checked is what temp the switch is activating at, as I need to source a thermometer. The time it takes for the torch to heat up to activating temp isn't long, and it's just a light duty torch for heat shrinking, so I can't imagine it's much different than the coolant temp. Without a thermometer I'm just guessing though.

    I swapped the switch out with another from a spare radiator. Tested it the same as above, which checked out, but the same results. I'm at the point where the switch seems to be the culprit, and apparently isn't kicking on at a low enough temp. That's the only thing making sense at the moment, but was hoping for a fresh set of eyes. What am I missing?

    Thanks for any feedback!
    :beer
  4. Windborne11

    Windborne11 Been here awhile

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    You just need to check the temperature that the switch is activating.
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  5. Hack'dTiger

    Hack'dTiger n00b schn00b

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    Agreed. Since it's the only thing left, regardless that it's working, it pretty much has to be out of acceptable range.

    Has anyone tried the Caltric brand switches? They're considerably less than OEM. Adding a manual switch would be an option, but I like the autonomy of the factory setup.
  6. Tsotsie

    Tsotsie Semi-reformed Tsotsi Supporter

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    No, but you can try the following; " Yamaha Thermo Switch Assembly (5ND-82560-10-00)" . It fits the radiator of my 2008. I have not searched to see if it is the same size as on the 07? About $26 and change vs the $90 for stock.

    It is used on Yamaha outboard motors. Works great and to spec on the KLR. Plug and play. With the compliments of 'Watt-Man' who put me onto it.

    My original switch was out of range.
  7. HDLNR

    HDLNR Been here awhile

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    What is this plug and where could/should it go to????

    IMG_20190820_182726.jpg
    IMG_20190820_182731.jpg

    The only things I've spotted up front so far are what I believe to be the euro things. This might be my own relic, used to have a lot of things going on up front. I definitely don't see myself not stripping out the cord for it while rebuilding if that was the case...
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  8. HDLNR

    HDLNR Been here awhile

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    Recent trip photos while I'm here

    IMG_20190818_073601_903.jpg
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    IMG_20190817_142708_135.jpg
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  9. souperdoo

    souperdoo Adventurer

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    I am using the Caltric switch. I was leery at first, but it checked good for on/off temperatures when I got it and has been fine for the past year and a half.

    With all non-OEM, especially Chinese stuff, you are well-advised to check the function before installing it.
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  10. Bigger Al

    Bigger Al Still a stupid tire guy Supporter

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    On the ride home from work last night:

    [​IMG]

    The 685 kit is working out brilliantly. I rode the bike on a trip a couple of weeks ago, covering just over 1,800 miles, and it was as smooth as silk. Most of the route was long highway, and the bike cruised effortlessly between 70-75 with occasional passing speeds in the low-mid-80's. I am pleased.
  11. Jaimito

    Jaimito n00b

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    Hi everybody! My name is Jaime and I,m from Spain. I was in a 3 year world tour with my old land cruiser in 2010 and the Canadian customs didn’t alough me to enter because of some Indian mud I had on the tires. A bit surrealistic but since then I’ve been traveling with a Klr 650. I’ve read so much in this forum but is the first time I write. Sorry for my English, is not very good and really thanks everybody for creating such an amazing forum!!

    I have a question but I’m not sure if this is the correct place to post it: I Have to increase my luggage capacity because My girlfriend is going to travel with me and I need to install front panniers. I own a klr 650 year 2005 with engine and tank guard and I’m not sure which model to choose because the air from the fan of the radiator goes out just in the place where the left tank panier is so pose to be located. Maybe it would be better if I attach it to the tank guard? Did anybody installed this kind of bags in his bike with the tank guards please? I’m between the aerostich (not sure if standard or comp) and the wolfman luggage. The next months I will drive exclusively in hot weather. Any suggestion please?

    Thanks a million. Best regards.


    AE503F7D-89B7-496E-87FE-BF36AB84D441.jpeg
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  12. willfreely

    willfreely Elderly Belligerent

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    Get another bike for her. That way you don't overload yours.
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  13. Bigger Al

    Bigger Al Still a stupid tire guy Supporter

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    If you're dead set on riding two-up, then the Aerostich tank panniers are the ones you want. I have those and the Wolfman panniers, and the Aerostich are much more user friendly.
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  14. vhortykho

    vhortykho Been here awhile

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    Looking for input from Rekluse owners. I have a Gen2 that I put a Rekluse clutch in at 10K miles. I got about 2K miles and the Rekluse starts slipping, badly. A typical ride involves pavement to forest service roads to easy two track and back. Maybe 200 miles in a day. The first time it happened I burnt the plates and discolored the CORE device getting back home. Free Play/clutch slack has always been way over what Rekluse recommends @ 1/2" so the clutch has always been free to fully engage. Rekluse replaced it under warranty. I did have to pay for the shop time though. The 2nd Rekluse got about 2K miles on it and started slipping again. At this point I don't think it's an issue with Rekluse's quality but rather a fitment issue. I took it back to the shop for a 3rd time. This time I had them install stiffer clutch springs along with replacing one thin Rekluse steel plate with one thicker OEM steel plate. After that was done, on the 8 mile ride home, I did notice the stiffer clutch pull but the Rekluse performed as advertised. But when I tried taking it for a ride today it started slipping very badly again. Currently, it's back in the shop and they are recommending I revert back to a stock clutch. Rekluse recommends an MA2 rated oil and I'm using Amsoil Metric Motorcycle Oil. The engine is stock. I'm an gentle rider. I'm just trying to get my head around why I can so easily kill a clutch that has such a good reputation in higher horsepower applications and with much faster riders. I hate mysteries. Any thoughts?
  15. Windborne11

    Windborne11 Been here awhile

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    I think every slipping motorcycle clutch ever encountered, was also encountered by owners using Amsoil. Put in some Kawasaki M4 mineral oil or some Honda GN4 mineral oil. Synthetic oil and wet clutches just don't seem to match up. That oil is too slippery.
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  16. Windborne11

    Windborne11 Been here awhile

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    Another thought, could you be riding your bike in too tall of a gear? On a Rekluse that will cause increased slippage, and burnout the plates.
  17. thechief86

    thechief86 jack of all daniels

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    We had some slippage in my buddy's 2015 with the Rekluse clutch, using the Amsoil products. He switched back to rotella 15w40 dino oil like we've always used with stock hardware, and never another issue in the last 15k miles, many of them fairly tough trail abuse.
    I have 30k miles on my original clutch so far, and have been using Rotella t4 since about 3k miles.
    My 2006 didnt burn oil until I tried amsoil, and didn't burn oil once I switched back.
    Amsoil is impressive stuff, but doesn't work so great in our Jap-Tractors.
  18. MattLikeyBikey

    MattLikeyBikey Been here awhile

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    Hi all, what tires do you consider to have very good stopping traction but still maintain decent off road capability? Big blocks? Thinking something more aggressive than the 80/20 tires but with dirt and street bite. Thanks!
  19. HardWorkingDog

    HardWorkingDog Super Ordinary

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    It's all just opinion, of course. My favorite set-up right now is a Shinko E705 up front, Dunlop D606 out back. Most of the power needed for pavement braking is up front where the Shinko has more rubber on the road, while traction needs in dirt are primarily rear tire, so I've got the DOT knobby there. Works well for me, ymmv.
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  20. vhortykho

    vhortykho Been here awhile

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    No, I always try to use a gear that's appropriate for the speed and load. The Rekluse probably slips more on the stop and go pavement sections, pulling away from stop signs in 1st while getting to the dirt than when actually on the dirt.

    Could it be just that simple? I spent extra for super-high-tech-space-age-oil only to find it's too slippery for my clutch even though it's MA2 rated? Well, that's an expensive lesson! I'll talk to the mechanic and have them do just an oil change with Kawasaki M4 and see if there's an improvement. If there is, I'll convert to Rotella T4. Can I expect a noticeable improvement right off the bat to let me know I'm heading in the right direction? Might it take a couple of oil changes to flush the plates of the evil Amsoil?