KLR650 Only Thread......

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by willys, Nov 19, 2011.

  1. laurient

    laurient Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2014
    Oddometer:
    376
    Location:
    QLD
    IMGP0069.JPG

    After nearly a month the second hand " used " from the US crash bars , Air hawk seat and ebay clamp style cruise control are on with a surprise water pump rebuild on the way .
    It was interesting making my own spacers and cutting , bending , welding and painting but at 1/2 price total was worth it .
    SteelB12 and jwaller like this.
  2. jwaller

    jwaller Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 23, 2011
    Oddometer:
    848
    Location:
    New Braunfels, TX
    Within a few weeks of getting my 2018, I holed my radiator and was shocked to see the price of the 2013+ radiator. I was about to buy one of the pre-2013 Chinese radiators and fans and was just going to make it work. I took the radiator core to an auto radiator shop and they straightened it out and patched up the hole for around $50. If you can find an auto radiator shop, they can probably hook you up like that too.

    Yeah, I immediately ordered crash bars after that fiasco. Funny thing is, now that I’ve got those bars, I haven’t tipped over......... yet.
  3. Bobk0

    Bobk0 MacGyver Minded.

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2014
    Oddometer:
    1,108
    Location:
    Around that over there.
    Roger that, thanks for the inputs. I bought the bike knowing it had been dropped, just wished I had researched more. :hung

    I think the plan will be to try and fix the stock one, and then order a chinese one to have in case I want it. Damn IT Kawasaki. Anyhow, the next step is gonna be to replace the slightly bent headlight fairing stay, and the coolant tank stay (these are slightly bent as well) and then repair a few cracks in the rare ass Camo fairing panels, mask and repaint over the scratches left by the previous owner if possible to maintain the camo, then use matte clearcoat to protect the rare allusive camo pattern.Then; Thermo bob+ crash bars+ jet kit. Just sucks having to spend repair money on a bike I didn't drop..that a dealer sold me.....but oh well, I signed the contract. :deal

    How about the Tusk crash bars? anyone?

    SW Motech look nice too, but look like more weight. I will however go after the SW skid plate. good design.

    Also for tires mybe 30/70 use? 70% highway, TKC80, or T63? or any other opinions appreciated. I have run Kenda K270's on my DR-Z for a long time and those are great, but the DRZ is also lighter.
  4. jwaller

    jwaller Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 23, 2011
    Oddometer:
    848
    Location:
    New Braunfels, TX
    I have the Tusk crash bars. I can’t speak to their durability but they seem like they are robust and they appear to provide good coverage. Haven’t wrecked since getting them. Then there’s pretty good testimony a few pages back about dirtracks crash bars. I think the dirtracks would be an easier install.
    Bobk0 likes this.
  5. BigFatAl

    BigFatAl Long timer

    Joined:
    Aug 24, 2016
    Oddometer:
    1,720
    I’m LOVING my Dirtracks wrap around crash bars.
    IMG_7879.JPG
    Bobk0 and SteelB12 like this.
  6. XDragRacer

    XDragRacer Long timer Supporter

    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2009
    Oddometer:
    5,170
    Tsotsie's '08 approaches 100,000 miles!

    On a seasonal ride, Tsotsie sends this image from southern Wyoming:

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    Here's his odometer; speedometer replaced at 6,500 miles under warranty, he'll reach a true 100,000 miles today:

    [​IMG]

    He ESCAPED "Imelda's" tremendous rainfall flooding his home area (Houston vicinity); reckon he's where he wants to be; a better place at this time!
    Tsotsie, Bobk0, jwaller and 4 others like this.
  7. IJustWantMyZBack

    IJustWantMyZBack Adventurer

    Joined:
    Apr 30, 2017
    Oddometer:
    58
    Plus two on the dirt racks bars. Both my dad and I run then on our '15 KLRs and they held up well to our TAT mishaps. Their saddle bag racks did well too.
    Bobk0, BigFatAl and GregDavidL like this.
  8. IJustWantMyZBack

    IJustWantMyZBack Adventurer

    Joined:
    Apr 30, 2017
    Oddometer:
    58
    I am open to selling you my spare 15+ radiator and fan if interested at cost plus s/h. Already had them boxed up in case I need to drop ship them.
  9. laurient

    laurient Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2014
    Oddometer:
    376
    Location:
    QLD
    Before i bought my bars i made a radiator protection bar out of 12mm bar and 6mm plate
    gave me peace of mind .

    IMGP0048 copy 2.JPG
    Bobk0 likes this.
  10. willfreely

    willfreely Elderly Belligerent

    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2013
    Oddometer:
    1,514
    Location:
    Eastern Middle Tenn
    Tusk bars work. Wish they made them for collarbones
    IMAG2050.jpg IMAG2020.jpg
    Bobk0 and PlowHand like this.
  11. HardWorkingDog

    HardWorkingDog Super Ordinary

    Joined:
    Aug 20, 2009
    Oddometer:
    3,792
    Location:
    Walnut Crick, Cal.
    My '09 came with SW Motech crash bars. I didn't like them, and tossed them when I found a cracked weld. I seem to be in the minority, but I much prefer the Happy Trails PD Nerf bar and their OSR side racks. They've been tested strong (personally!), and are much less obtrusive than the other ones that get mentioned.
    Bobk0, sanders446 and Argentian like this.
  12. merc16

    merc16 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 26, 2008
    Oddometer:
    551
    Location:
    Alabama
  13. jwaller

    jwaller Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 23, 2011
    Oddometer:
    848
    Location:
    New Braunfels, TX
    I ended up ordering the Ricochet skid plate from Rocky Mountain ATV/MC because I knew it would come to me in time for a trip to an off-road Park tomorrow. But now it looks like weather will keep me from riding this weekend after all. IMG_1462.JPG IMG_1461.JPG
    SteelB12 likes this.
  14. smokediver3

    smokediver3 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Feb 16, 2012
    Oddometer:
    72
    Location:
    West "by God" Virginia
    Anyone had any luck swapping out a CDI box from a different model bike altogether or changing the plug from a newer KLR to an older one? My son's 87 model bit the dust & finding a replacement is proving near impossible. Apparently they only used it on the 87,88 & 89 before changing plug/wiring. We've found a few used ones on fleabay, but I'm curious if there's an alternative we can possibly try out.
  15. Baja_Bound

    Baja_Bound Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2011
    Oddometer:
    145
    Location:
    Texas
    I am trying to address a vibration issue that I think is more than the inherent vibration of large single cylinder piston. The vibration occurs at anything >3000 and makes my hands tingle, butt numb and renders the mirrors useless. I have ruled out the tires as the vibration occurs when the bike is at idle and revved up past 3000 RPMs. My work around has been riding in a higher gear to keep the RMPs down. The bike is a gen2 (2011) purchased last year with 19,000 miles. The first owner rode it from Alaska (bought new) to Texas. The second owner installed an Eagle Mike doohickey and put on very few miles. I have opened up the left crankcase and ensured the doohickey with torsion spring is working as expected.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I spoke with Eagle Mike over the telephone and he recommended that I check the synchronization of the sprockets and balancer weights using the chain. I have the Clymer and KLR factory manual and am following the instructions.

    I still have a few questions. I will put up some pictures with the questions and see if help is available.
  16. Baja_Bound

    Baja_Bound Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2011
    Oddometer:
    145
    Location:
    Texas
    When removing the inner left casing, I did a rookie mistake and allowed the tensioner bolt and shaft come out with the casing. I heard the click of the spacer fall down into the engine oil hole. Oops.... but I did fish it out by removing the tensioner sprocket.

    [​IMG]

    I then started moving the chain and sprockets around to see the punch marks and "shiny" links on the chain used for synchronization. The only way I was able to move the chain around was to reinstall the rotor bolt and turn the bolt CLOCKWISE, which did move the chain around. I know we normally rotate the rotor bolt counterclockwise when setting TDC, but if rotated it counter clockwise, the bolt would come out. Is this alright?

    [​IMG]
  17. Baja_Bound

    Baja_Bound Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2011
    Oddometer:
    145
    Location:
    Texas
    Based on the Clymer photo, the synchronization may be off. I placed the silver links in the positions in the photo but the punch marks are not aligning with the links. Is it possible from the photos to tell if my assessment is correct?

    [​IMG]

    rear balancer sprocket. punch marks in yellow, shiny links in red.

    [​IMG]

    front balancer weight and sprocket. punch marks in yellow, shiny links in red.

    [​IMG]
    ZachM1 likes this.
  18. Bell driver

    Bell driver Long timer

    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2010
    Oddometer:
    1,417
    Location:
    Germany, Nordish By Nature.
    You haven't lined up the chain correctly. Take it off and do it as per the drawing.
    Make sure the piston is at TDC.
  19. Baja_Bound

    Baja_Bound Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2011
    Oddometer:
    145
    Location:
    Texas
    Thank you Bell Driver. Do you feel the sprockets and weights should come off and back on in the process? Not sure if I can get the chain shifted well without moving then. Heading to the store for snap ring pliers in case weights need to come off.
  20. Aprilia

    Aprilia Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 15, 2008
    Oddometer:
    1,799
    Location:
    Phoenix, AZ
    It only comes up in alignment about every 6 or 7 rotations.... When the you remove the small starter gears you can rotate the engine in either direction. Gears in place...counter clockwise only.
    sanders446 likes this.