KLR650 Only Thread......

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by willys, Nov 19, 2011.

  1. Baja_Bound

    Baja_Bound Been here awhile

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    Do you think I have done damage rotating clockwise?

    The top right and bottom left sprockets move but not the center rotor where cam chain is on. That is why I was using the rotor bolt to get it moving. Am I missing something?
  2. jwaller

    jwaller Been here awhile

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    Hey, you're in the San Antonio area right? If you're still working on it next weekend, I'd be up for coming over and providing any assistance you need. I know sometimes just a spare hand, an extra set of eyes, and a second mind can get things going better. Then you can give my bike a little spin and use it as a basis of comparison. They should be somewhat similar. The only engine mod I've done is the doohickey.
  3. Baja_Bound

    Baja_Bound Been here awhile

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    I got the bike back together and balanced as far as I can tell. Has the same vibration that makes my teeth chatter. Maybe I am just a wimp and too sensitive.

    Waller - I am travelling next weekend but I greatly appreciate the offer. Yes, a side by side riding comparison would be perfect. If both bikes feel the same, then it is confirmed... I am a weenie.

    Also having you ride mine would be a perfect test. We will do it soon.
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  4. Bobk0

    Bobk0 MacGyver Minded.

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    Thanks @IJustWantMyZBack I may look at the Myler one, and then armor it. Ill pm u if otherwise. My friend has a 2015 who has the mylar, gonna look at his bike and see what I think.
  5. sanders446

    sanders446 Been here awhile

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    First thoughts,.. is your bike still factory lean? Have you checked the steering stem nut? Have you loosened and then re-tightened the engine mounts? Taken the tank off and tightened up everything you can?
  6. bikerjim2000

    bikerjim2000 Father Time is UNDEFEATED

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    They all do that. Stock steel handlebars? Cant see anything in the rearviews at all!
    Replace with an aluminum Fatbar to reduce vibration quite a bit. At least the second gen has the bar end weights. You could fill that bar with 000 shot. Did that on a ZRX and it helps.
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  7. Baja_Bound

    Baja_Bound Been here awhile

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    Yes, it is likely factory lean. I have purchased the KLX needle kit but not have not installed it yet. I would be surprised if the throttle response / carburetor is related to the vibration. I will let you know how it goes after installation.
    No, I have not taken off the tank or tested the steering stem nut. I can (partially) get to the engine mounts and they seem to be fine. I do need to do a tear down to get to them properly.

    Yes, the handlebar is stock. I have heard of filling it with shot, but was surprised that this would be necessary. I have purchased grip puppies and will likely install them soon. I am just surprised that the vibration is so bad that my butt, finger and teeth go numb and the mirrors are useless.

    I know to expect some vibration given the 650 thumper but my gut says this is not right. I am traveling the next few days but will continue to tackle the issue when I get home. I should have the opportunity to ride another inmate's bike (jwaller) and have him ride mine. That should be an excellent test.

    If I find this is as expected for the bike, I may have a good looking, nicely farkled KLR up for adoption on the For Sale forum.
  8. willfreely

    willfreely Elderly Belligerent

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    Now I am, thanks. Happened last May. Me, the motorcycle and Earth got into a disagreement. Two out of three could go to work the next day.
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  9. BigFatAl

    BigFatAl Long timer

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    It doesn’t sound right !!
    My 2016 at 15,000 vibrates a bit but nothing like you described.
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  10. ANFRider

    ANFRider Adventurer

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    I have a brand new 2018 KLR that has exactly the same vibration, only my vibration starts at 4k RPMs, is at it's worst around 4500 RPMs, and then begins to dissipate beyond that. I'm curious as to what you find the cause to be. I'm sure mine is harmonic, and not related to tires, bearings or anything loose. I can make it vibrate in any gear at any speed, just rev it up to 4k. I did the Doohickey at the first oil change, and it only has 511 miles on it now.
  11. Baja_Bound

    Baja_Bound Been here awhile

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    I will definitely report back when I have an answer and a ride comparison on another KLR. I absolutely love what this bike can do and would hate to sell due to excessive vibration. Makes this life-long 50 year old rider a little wimpy.

    My wife would like to ride on back for short jaunts but she said the vibration is just too much for her. That alone is enough for me to consider another bike should this be the normal vibes. I will try to provide some before and after objective data as soon as I can with video.
  12. Pollack

    Pollack Adventurer

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    Unfortunately, I had to set the timing and realign everything on mine when I did the doo. I used a Clymer as a reference and it was helpful; however, one of the sprockets was a tooth off and it vibrated terribly. I had to go back in; although, this time I also used a Kawi service manual. I counted the teeth on each sprocket and it worked out fine the second go around. This is just my experience, ymmv...…

    Best regards,

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  13. ANFRider

    ANFRider Adventurer

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    I can definitely tell you that in my case at least, it's not normal. I also have a 2011 KLR with nearly 20k miles, and it doesn't have any vibration like this.

    I never thought to check the counterbalancer timing since the bike was new and untouched, but it's worth a couple of gaskets to go back in and check it.
    scout68 likes this.
  14. GregDavidL

    GregDavidL Been here awhile

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    My 2015 seems to hit some sort of harmonics around 4,000 rpm.

    Nothing major like the OP is describing, but definitely there.

    The 2 piece plastic guards on my Bark Busters would also buzz at that rpm range. I had to put a small rubber o-ring between them.

    I usually just speed up or slow down a little bit and it'll reduce in intensity.
  15. Tsotsie

    Tsotsie Semi-reformed Tsotsi Supporter

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    +1!

    Baja - Based upon your pictures, you are way out. The dots on the shafts and balancer weights as well as the marked/silver chain links have to align together as per the picture in the manual for the crank as well as the balancers. Even 1 tooth out will cause excessive vibration.
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  16. Baja_Bound

    Baja_Bound Been here awhile

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    Thank you for the feedback. The wealth of knowledge and the willingness to help a fellow rider is the reason I want to get this figured out and stick with the KLR.

    I lined everything up on the left side but didn't open the right side where there is also a counter balance. I wonder if that could be off? I will have to wait since I will be traveling for a week but will definitely report back. Here are some photos after the left side synchronization. Even though the rotor sprocket was aligned per the picture, I do wonder if I was no longer at TDC when this was set. There were no punch marks seen on the rotor sprocket, just some paint from the factory.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
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  17. PJ Bren

    PJ Bren Been here awhile

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    As an afterthought I was taking out the AIS system on a newly aquired KLR, 2012. I've taken out 3 others on other bikes before without issue, but on this particular bike the bolt that holds down the AIS tube/plate was particularly tight. My impression is that it was cross threaded, perhaps from the factory as there isn't any evidence of previous owners tampering with the system.

    The bolt broke, so now I'm left with the AIS hole open and no place to thread in a block off plate. The placement of the bolt is directly under the frame, making an EZ out isn't possible without loosening all the engine mounts and other goodies and angling the engine. I suppose I could also remove the whole top end. Even then bolt removal isn't assured as it is really buggered in there. Would likely have to drill it out and tap to the next size up (provided there aren't coolant or oil passage ways around there.

    Options -
    Since I'm not planning on putting the AIS system back and if I sell the bike the future owners won't demand it, is there some way to block the AIS hole without the threaded block off plate bolt. Perhaps put a disc of some sort in the AIS hole to keep anything from running down further into the hole, then fill it with epoxy? Other ideas? I don't think the hole sees too much pressure does it? Is it negative or positive pressure, or both? Would an epoxy plug hold?

    Any input would be appreciated.

    Paul
  18. Tsotsie

    Tsotsie Semi-reformed Tsotsi Supporter

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    There should be is mark on the crank behind/on the cam chain assy. that must also be aligned with the single silver link. TDC is essential. One link out and you will get significant vibration. Unless someone has split the motor, the right side should be OK . Your other mark alignments look good.
  19. Tsotsie

    Tsotsie Semi-reformed Tsotsi Supporter

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    PJ. Most epoxy's have temperature limitations and being on the exhaust, temps can get very high. Is there room to carefully tap a thread in that hole and put a short bolt in? It does not have to be in tight.
  20. Bobk0

    Bobk0 MacGyver Minded.

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    So I read somewhere that with the 2nd Gen KLR's the Doohickey (Chain adjuster) is reinforced by Kawasaki in the later models. Can anyone confirm? Im still tempted to add an aftermarket one.