Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by willys, Nov 19, 2011.
Hey Tsotsie, congrats on 100k! XDragRacer gave us an update. Hope you had a great trip!
Kawi updated the lever itself beginning with Gen 2's (2008). However, they failed to install a spring with sufficient tension capabilities. In my experiences at my shop most springs can no longer apply tension in as little as 1800miles and I've seen only a couple Gen2's with proper tension that had over 10K miles. For the most part, by 6-8K miles the spring is no longer doing what its supposed to be doing. Might as well upgrade it all while you are in there with www.eaglemike.com kit.
Also, a number of the Kawi levers had quite a bit of slop at the shaft. Something to consider as well. While the lever is locked down under usage the shaft is still oscillating back n forth...haven't seen damage from this but there shouldn't be that much slop. I know EM checks each and every lever for the Gen2 replacement kits just to make sure.
Thank you! If you look at my second picture, I have the silver link opposite a green painted mark behind the crank . cam chain assy. This is the position that was shown in Kawi manual and Clymers. The green mark is at about 11:30 and the link is about at 5:30. I don't thin the cases have ever been open.
I see you are in South Texas. Any chance you would lend a hand if I rode to you from San Antonio? I have food... and beer..
Roger that, thanks. Better safe than sorry. Much like my DRZ400 cam chain tensioner About to put my thermo nipple in, now adding damnhickey to the list....I just want to ride.
With a Klr...there will plenty of time to ride! You give up light weight, good suspension and decent hp for extra long reliable life. Klr takes very little upkeep/maintenance.
S Texas to ND, MT, WY etc. A 4,168 mile ride. No issues. 98 to 27 degree temp range. Bike now has been ridden 101,811 miles.
Nice! I did some 'testing' with a few aftermarket pipes recently. Never noticed that one melted a hole on the clean side of the air box. FIrst indication was oil level dropped. Mine never loss oil previously. After 65K its time for a rebuild. I pulled one of my spare engines off the parts shelf figuring I'd go thru it (big bore kit) and put it up for sale to pay for a rebuild of mine. Engine was so darn clean and low mileage (2002 Japanese build) I'll rebuild it for me and swap it in.
I still have the original pipe and still no holes burnt in the airbox. I also way back at about 5K did the popular KLX and carb mods. All I could tell was that it used more gas than my friends on similar long rides. Been stock ever since
The pre 08 doo was a 2 piece welded unit. The 08+ stock is a forged one piece unit.
As Aprilia has indicated, the doo from EMike is a solid machined unit that not only has closer tolerances to fit snugly, but also has a larger range of ark for adjustment. With the EMike torsion spring it is a once installed fix. One still, however, needs to loosen the adjuster nut behind the rubber grommet the left side to allow the spring to take up the chain wear. I do that every oil change.
For sure, I am looking forward to it. I've had a DRZ for years now and I love it, but I cant go very far (realistically) I will prolly keep it for the wheelies and jumps and rough stuff. I was waiting around and waiting around on the Tenere 700, but then decided to stop waiting and get the KLR to go anywhere I want. I plan on putting 50k or more on it (unless something new and crazy comes out at one of the 2020 shows this fall). But even then, will it be as rugged as a KLR? The problem with all new models is that sometimes there are new catastrophic mechanical oversights .
I'll be happy KLR'ing around until those work out. What does KLR stand for anyhow? I am going with "Kawasaki Long Range" because that's what I want to believe.
Enjoy the ride!
glad to hear there'll be one less rider I have to fight in the line for my new T7
Keep Loctite Ready
Haha yea. I told my friend, riding a KLR feels like riding a giant Briggs&Stratton with a gearbox. But in a good way. It even kinda sounds like one
Sticky throttle issue, thought i'd check in with the gurus. The grip snaps back fine when shifting but motor continues high rev. It's also slow to start, and then will bog down and die if choke is taken off past about 1/2 choke. Dirty carb maybe?
The issue seemed to pop up out of the blue when starting the bike. Usually i full choke when it's cold, hit the starter (fires right up) then immediately ease off the choke to idle with no problems. Didn't notice the throttle sticking issue until the next ride after first startup issue. 2003 KLR
Sounds like a vacuum leak.
Yes air leak somewhere. Check that the vacuum hose to the petcock is not broken or fallen off. The carb intake boot could be cracked or carb loose in boot.
Unfortunately another year has gone by and work & life has kept me too busy to go on some trips. I want to extend the season and I'm going to try to do some winter riding with a heated vest. Just how cold can the temp get before a heated vest and gloves isn't a wise decision. I have gone touring once in January when the temp was in the high 30s without any heated gear and it was tough.... Feel free to share your experiences, thanks.
What is this? And can it be deleted? Is messing with my radiator hose when installing thermobob
I have ridden with a Gerbings jacket and controller since 2004 on other bikes too. As recently as last Saturday coming down into CO (Craig) from WY and into the passes there and it was 27. In my riding, long distances under 50, one needs extra help and just extra layers cant cope below certain temps and time riding.
Check out wind chill rates at various wind speeds to realize what you are up against. Read up on hypothermia and its effects on your mind. Nothing to play with. I don't have heated grips, instead, pairs of ski mittens. Ordinary insulated gloves are about an hour for me before my hands get too cold. At stops, place them next to the motor. One needs certain layers to work with heated clothing too.
Vests only heats your core, I need arms too and that is why a jacket. Other brands are probably just as good as Gerbings.