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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by willys, Nov 19, 2011.
Could it be the carb vent line? Or was that fixed with the Gen 2s?
Which diaphragm? How to check? Roadside repairable?
I checked at the petcock. All's good. Didn't check the one that goes to the tank under the seat. Or under the pillion.
An unhooked vacuum line will kill the bike. A leaking vacuum line will produce stuttering.
Yes, good call.
Tomorrow I'll double check lines at the petcock, engine, and tank. If I can figure out how, the carb float bowl, and just for shits and giggles, the spark plug wire.
After that, I'm out of ideas.
Carb diaphragm, you have to take the carb off the bike to get to it. Inspect it for any holes or tears. I don't know if it it's repairable, I'll let those more knowledgeable than me say that.
I do know it can be replaced with the one from a late 90s/early 00s Harley Sportster if you have a Harley dealer nearby.
Not exactly. Carb can be rotated, mixing chamber cap removed (four machine screws), and . . . diaphragm/slide/needle extracted. (Some KLRistas perform the "22-cent mod" (shim needle to fuel-enrich mid-range operation; drill vacuum port in hope of crisper throttle response) when these carb innards mentioned are removed.)
Upon reassembly, diaphragm peripheral edge MUST be seated fully in carb casting groove, forming an air-tight seal, for proper operation.
Hole or tear in diaphragm likely would have an effect over a wider rpm range than reported, IMHO.
If you're serious about DIY going into the carb, ennui, I commend to you these video clips:
An exploded carburetor parts diagram (available from Kawasaki's and parts vendors' websites) might come in handy.
Those videos are awesome. Used them for my carb overhaul.
The carb isn’t that hard to remove. I say that like a know it all, but in reality I always had a hard time until I saw this video that taught me how to do it really easily.
LED BLINKER BULBS- I recently installed LED bulbs into my turn signals. I knew without changing the blinker relay it would be hyper flashing. So in the garage checking it out they were blinking real fast and then quit. I had ordered a new electronica relay for LEDs and just installed it and it didn’t flash. The bulbs lit up real dim and when you push the reset or off button the bulb flashed one time. Now I can’t get them to flash it all. Any ideas on my problem?
Be sure your polarity is correct.
The relay only plugs in one way?? What do I need to do to check polarity? Is there also a fuse somewhere?
I just did some searching on removal of the emissions canister system, and all I can find is 1st Gen info. Currently I have 4 vacuum/vent holes which will need to be addressed.
1 red vent at base of gas tank.
1 blue vent at base of gas tank.
1 airbox tube vent.
1 vacuum line to the carb junction.
Does anyone know about the red and blue gas tank vents? Do I block them both off or leave one open? have found mixed info
On the tank the inboard nipple should have vent line that runs down to the swing arm...this is your tank vent. The outboard is capped.
Drain the carb. You might have water in your fuel system.
My KLR had similar symptoms. Unscrewing the drain plug on the bottom of the carb and letting the gas flow out for a minute solved the issue.
what is the weight of the gen2 fairing headlight speedo etc. All of it, the whole assembly. . Id rather not take it off to weight it haha. I would also rather not get into why I want to know this as I will have to hear everyone's opinions on why I don't need to know it or shouldn't even be asking. So, anybody know off hand? Thanks
The 2008 fairing weighs just about the same as the 2016 fairing. I didn’t want to take it off to weigh it haha.
I hope this helps.
I'm sure the weight is 94 lbs, you'll surely notice a big difference when you take it off.
This is why I don't internet
That very well could be. It did get rained on the day before.
But luckily everything worked out. Seems like it just needed a good nights rest. Did 300 miles the next day without any trouble. *shrugs*
If it comes up again I'll try draining the carb, cleaning out the float bowl, or cleaning the jets. (in that order)
I think lonegunm4n was onto it with the carb vent line. When it rains or you go thru a water crossing the carb vent line that runs down under the bike can get water in it. Even a very small amount of water getting in there gets trapped by the vacuum and it will make the bike run like crap and give the same symptoms that clogged jets do. The overnight stop probably allowed the water to exit vent line.
Both fixes are easy. One is to do the "t-mod" (google it). The other is to cut the end of the vent hose at the bottom of the bike at an angle with a razor blade and also make a razor cut up the hose a few inches. This will allow the water to drain out if it does find its way up there as those few inches will not hold the vacuum. Glad you were able to finish the rest of your trip!