KLR650 Only Thread......

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by willys, Nov 19, 2011.

  1. scout68

    scout68 Been here awhile

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    +1 on the IMS extended folding shifter. It allows my adventure riding boots to fit right under it without gymnastics
  2. Pollack

    Pollack Adventurer

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    My KLR is using more oil after an oil change than I would hope for after a 1K miles. I know I need to rebuild it and put in a 685. I don’t think this is going to have any merit; however, I’m going to give it a try. My understanding is after about 1K miles oil sheer becomes a significant issue. I am going to try to supplement the additives in the oil. I am going to put in Lucas oil stabilizer after it starts burning oil. I phoned them and they recommended 5% as a ratio for wet clutches. As it continues to burn oil I am going to put in Valvoline 20w50 sae for motorcycles. This is an effort to add additional viscosity to the oil. I will do this till I get to 2K miles on the oil change and at that point I will begin the process again. We’ll see how it goes, but I’m more curious than optimistic.

    Best regards,
    Scooter Addict and thechief86 like this.
  3. scout68

    scout68 Been here awhile

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    FWIW...
    After reading about a quarter million (felt like it ) discussions surrounding this KLR oil usage/685/rebuild/nomore oil usage issue, I just started changing mine every 1000 miles. Rotella t4 is so inexpensive, and thought this seemed like some sort of good preventive practice to employ early on in the life of my '15. Granted, I don't take long highway trips on mine...I'm only 7700 miles on the clock...so we will see.
  4. SloSolo2

    SloSolo2 Long timer

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    DR guy back looking for help and hoping this thread is like the DR thread where it's OK to ask without searching first. My KLR owning friend needed to check his valve clearances. They were close but in spec so he started to put the valve cover back on when one of the bolts snapped. We were able to extract it from the cam journal cap and he ordered a new bolt because of course no one had bolts in stock. That was with his FT/lbs torque wrench "converting" to inch/lbs so OK that wasn't a great idea. Today, using my inch/lbs torque wrench the bolt on the other side has stripped out the cam journal cap. I'm at a loss why this happened but it did so the question is now that we're here how can it be repaired? Can we put a heli-coil in or is replacing the part the only way? If heli-coil is ok what size is the right one? Is this common or are we just special?

    Edit
    Just checked the parts fiche and now I'm scarred these things don't have a part number. Can they be purchased separate from the head?
  5. EnduroRdr

    EnduroRdr Woods Racer & D/S Rider

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    Maybe the bolt hole had oil in it?
    Oil will not compress and as a result will often strip the threads as the bolt tries to push down into the oil.

    Best practice is to clean out the holes (flush with contact cleaner) then assemble dry.

    Just a guess as to why the hole stripped.
  6. Pollack

    Pollack Adventurer

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    I don't believe so, IIRC that part of the head is produced using a technique called line boring. You may be able to find someone who can put in coils or time serts; however, they must be extraordinarily precise. Other than that, a new head must be purchased. Sorry for your troubles....

    Best regards,
  7. SloSolo2

    SloSolo2 Long timer

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    Wow.
    Thankfully since the first post I've been informed it's the other bolts that go into the head not the camshaft journals. Having now searched the thread I see that isn't completely unheard of and have reached out to a local inmate with the tools and skills to fix it right. Thanks.
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  8. Pollack

    Pollack Adventurer

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    I have broken a bolt with a torque wrench before and I was using correctly as well. I'm not sure if the wrench wasn't calibrated, perhaps I left it on a setting and put it up, maybe it just didn't work that day. I don't use them on small bolts anymore. I'll hand tighten bolts and when I use a ratchet, just gentle 1/16 or 1/8 turn bumps with a finger. YMMV....

    Best regards,
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  9. SloSolo2

    SloSolo2 Long timer

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    Yeah someone just said in another thread here that an uncalibrated wrench shouldn't be used closer than to the edge of it's range than 25% at either end. I generally use the 1/4" drive inch pound wrench very gently, gripping it mid way up the wrench. I wasn't there but I'm told it was ridiculously easy to strip these threads. This whole thing makes me thankful the DR has really easy access to the valves and they aren't generally too finicky about the quality of repairs :lol3 (picture courtesy of @cyberdos).
    [​IMG]
    flexiflyer likes this.
  10. Windborne11

    Windborne11 Been here awhile

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  11. Aprilia

    Aprilia Long timer

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    You can use a helicoil. Not too long ago I had a guy come in. He finally figured something was wrong after he snapped 3 of the 4. That torque is critical for accuracy and most people don't understand how tq wrenches are rated i.e. most are not accurate in the bottom 20% of the scale. That torque is so low that you really need a dedicated tq wrench for this application/range. I have a SnapOn brand but CDI Torque Products is the same at half the price. Use M6 1.00 so the factory bolt can be used.
    thechief86, ZachM1 and wheresbaoskee like this.
  12. SloSolo2

    SloSolo2 Long timer

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    Thanks for the helicoil size. I'll look into the cdi wrench as well.
  13. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

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    Wow, never saw a 6mm bolt with that coarse of a thread. Most 6's are 1.0. Must be a special bolt.
    Klrian likes this.
  14. Scooter Addict

    Scooter Addict Been here awhile Supporter

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    I have read on other forums that riders say that a “Thermobob” installed when fairly new, will help prevent oil usage. I don’t know if because the water temperature runs higher that the oil will reach operating temperature and help seat the rings better?
    Pollack likes this.
  15. Pollack

    Pollack Adventurer

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    The thermo-bob is a good investment if you plan to have you bike on a long-term basis. I regret not putting one on when I was less experienced with the klr. My understanding is the a thermo-bob prevents less thermal stress on the cylinder wall by heating and cooling over a long period of time. I will likely put in a 685, thermo-bob, and new seat sometime next year.

    Best regards,
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  16. Aprilia

    Aprilia Long timer

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    I'll double check here in a bit. I have a klr engine torn down in the shop. My memory isn't what it used to be lol. Again, same size as existing factory bolt.

    Uhg. Don't where I got 1.50 for M6 from. I edit my original post....M6 1.00
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  17. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

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    Yeah, I kind of doubt if they even make a M6 X 1.50 helicoil. :D
  18. Ohio_Danimal

    Ohio_Danimal If I die trying, at least I tried Supporter

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    Currently in Peru


    BAE978C0-14C8-4703-BCFC-168E3EFF5A5B.jpeg
  19. phideaux

    phideaux Long timer Super Supporter

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    Gen 1 with 685. I'm thinking of steeping up my gearing. What's the collective thought.....do I want to go 15T or 16T on the counter?
    Have I read somewhere that the 16T is just too close of a fit?


    Fido:norton
  20. scout68

    scout68 Been here awhile

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    Been thinking about the same thing. Since I bought a woods/single track bike I’m now mostly commuting on the KLR. Been wondering if 17 is too big a jump. Bought a 16, probably will just giv e it a try. Tim2wheels had a helpful video about this issue.....

    Although that’s Gen 2 stuff