KLR650 Only Thread......

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by willys, Nov 19, 2011.

  1. Grinnin

    Grinnin Forever N00b Supporter

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    Are you using the tensioner bolts to move the axle? I move the axle then adjust the nut to keep the axle there.

    If you use the tensioner bolts to move the axle, make sure the axle moves easily first -- loosen the axle nut sufficiently and make sure the brake bracket isn't jammed with grit.
  2. sanders446

    sanders446 Been here awhile

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    This time I had the wheel off when I went to loosen the nuts but I bet you dollars to donuts I damaged them doing exactly what you said previously. I'll move the axle first from now on. D'oh! Thanks so much Grinnin!
  3. gcowan10

    gcowan10 Adventurer

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    What's up my fellow riders! I have a bit of a situation. I was riding home the other night and hit my brights switch. As soon as I did my headlight, rpm, and speedo lights cut out while riding but then bike still ran fine. My first thought was a short in the headlight switch but the blinkers were still working,so I figured that was ok. Haven't taken that apart yet. Looked today and made sure the bulb was good in the headlight. It's fine and nothings touching inside the bulb itself which I've read can cause fuses to blow. So looking at the fuses, the fuse to protect the lights was not blown but did look a little worn and the connector the fuse sits in was slightly melted and looks pretty corroded. Which is in the first picture. I couldn't find the same connector to try and replace it but i did get new fuses just in case. Replacing the fuse didn't seem to be the problem. Nothing changed, still no lights but blinkers still working which makes me think the connector being corroded a bit isn't the problem. Then i noticed the rear clutch side blinker wasn't working. Opened up the casing and the bulb was blown, almost like it exploded from the inside, and was missing the seal to keep out water and was rusted pretty bad. It wasn't wet inside the housing at all so i don't think that was the cause but I could be wrong. All of the wiring in the harness looks fine that I can see. No open wires or burnt looking plastics that would be suspect of a short.

    Have any of you guys come across this problem? What do you think it could be? I'm pretty much at a stand still at this point and I can't really think of what else it could be.
    Thanks in advance for any help, it's very much appreciated.

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  4. Windborne11

    Windborne11 Been here awhile

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    From the condition of your fuse block and winker, I would start by stripping off your plastics, and check ALL of your wire connections and grounds for corrosion.
    They need to be cleaned and lubed with dielectric grease. Even if this is not todays problem, it will be tomorrows.
    It could be your light switch has burnt out or corroded. That's a separate switch from your blinkers. That can be tested with a 12v testlight.
  5. Pollack

    Pollack Adventurer

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    What he said ^^^ and check for rubs on all your wires when the plastic if off.

    Best regards,
  6. thechief86

    thechief86 jack of all daniels

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    I've had a similar issue when a plug on the back of my instrument cluster came unplugged. My bike is a 2006, though. 2nd gen would be different, I'm sure
  7. Klrian

    Klrian Adventurer

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    Are you sure you are checking the correct fuse? I can't remember if the gen 1 fuse near the overflow tank is for the headlights.
  8. Bobk0

    Bobk0 MacGyver Minded.

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    Nice! any pics of the top secret diesel parts as you assembled?
  9. Bobk0

    Bobk0 MacGyver Minded.

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    Finally getting to the doohicktical elliptical balancer chain cam adjustment stay. 2016 with 3700 miles; there was still tension but you can see the spring is close to being closed. When I took off the doo, I could tell Kawasaki changed the design for the 2nd gen as it was not welded, however the adjuster is cast metal rather than machined. The gap on the square bit was quite noticeable compared to the machined fit of the Eagle Mike one. Got my holes drilled for the torsion spring, just need to reassemble.
    PART_1575905082210_20191208_161448.jpg
    On the inner case below the adjuster bolt hole you can see where the spring was vibrating into the side of the case a bit. weird.
    20191208_183519-1.jpg
  10. gcowan10

    gcowan10 Adventurer

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    Maybe not? Mine is an 03 so ours should be the same setup. When I checked the fuse under the seat, the headlight fuse had been upgraded to a 20 amp glass fuse and the fuse was not blown. Which could suggest the light switch being blown out like Windborne11 pointed out.
  11. Tsotsie

    Tsotsie Semi-reformed Tsotsi Supporter

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    Not cast, forged, even better
  12. thumpism

    thumpism Between bikes

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  13. Bobk0

    Bobk0 MacGyver Minded.

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    Only reason I say cast is there is a ground off part to the right that looks like where the mold was poured and then the pitting in the texture looks kinda like a sand mold. Either way the tolerances are pretty bad on the shaft. The hole does not appear to have been machine finished in any way.

    20191211_093610-1.jpg
  14. HardWorkingDog

    HardWorkingDog Super Ordinary

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    Tsotsie was referring to the EM part being forged, I think! Carry on...
  15. Coldstreak

    Coldstreak Been here awhile

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    Forgings usually begin life as a casting, then forged into the final shape, before machining. The entire part may not be forged, just the critical areas.
    PlowHand and Tsotsie like this.
  16. Bobk0

    Bobk0 MacGyver Minded.

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    Ohhh Durr :loco long week. Yeah the E.M. one seems to be proper for sure. Plan to get it all back together tomorrow/Friday then see if my 4000rpm vibration surge is decreased. This will be the last mechanical piece of the puzzle before all the other mods cometh. Next is maybe some Baja Designs LED's among other stuff. then the open territory.
  17. sanders446

    sanders446 Been here awhile

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    I have a doo question myself...

    I've read that it's advisable to adjust the balancer every oil change and I've also seen it written that it is actually not good to do that and it should be done around every 7500 miles.

    Any thoughts on which is correct?
  18. Bobk0

    Bobk0 MacGyver Minded.

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    I dont have the Kawasaki issued manual, but happen to have a Clymer manual handy and they note every 3000 miles.
    blanacer.JPG

    Much like my manual tensioner on my DR-Z, I plan to learn what feels/sounds right. I usually adjust my DR-Z cam chain about every 1.5 oil changes. With those; the only real measurable way to adjust is degrees of rotation and "rattly sound." Rotate slightly until "rattly sound" goes away :ear. So far so good 18,000 miles.

    With the KLR its just a constant spring pressure rate into the chain with the adjuster loose, however the physics on the stretch of the chain after adjuster is locked are still pretty much the same, its gonna stretch slowly under the last applied tension. In the end the more frequently the chain is adjusted, will just likely stretch the chain over a shorter time, than if you waited longer between each adjustment. If you wait too long though It could jump a tooth and explode the engine. Likely the engine would be "Rattly as hell" tho before that occurred.
    XDragRacer and sanders446 like this.
  19. XDragRacer

    XDragRacer Long timer Supporter

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    Don't think sanders446 above refers to the CAM CHAIN, BobkO; rather, the BALANCER CHAIN. KLR balancer chain tension is set by spring tension on an idler shaft lever ("doohickey"), tension adjusted by periodic loosening and subsequent tightening of a hold-down bolt.

    Generation 1 Kawasaki Owner's Manual interval: 5,000 miles (after initial servicing).
  20. Pollack

    Pollack Adventurer

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    A common practice many of us use is to adjust the doo every other oil change, YMMV....

    Best regards,