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KLR650 Only Thread......

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by willys, Nov 19, 2011.

  1. theofam

    theofam Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2009
    Oddometer:
    826
    Location:
    Denver
    Dumb question. I've got a manual. I can read just like the next guy. Clymer has let me know just what I have in store the next few days!
  2. mikehailwood

    mikehailwood Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2005
    Oddometer:
    301
    Location:
    St. Louis, MO / Estes Park, CO
    With the KLR on a small lift, I slid my motor out the left side of the frame onto a milk crate (which every KLR owner will have, of course).
  3. motobene

    motobene Motoing for 49 years Supporter

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2013
    Oddometer:
    6,700
    Location:
    Wichita Mountains SW Oklahoma
    Not such a big repair, so one can weld on the case with the engine assembled. A little at a time helps keep the part temps down.
    theofam likes this.
  4. theofam

    theofam Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2009
    Oddometer:
    826
    Location:
    Denver
    F33BDC72-A02B-4981-B4D8-151E90D756A1.jpeg I’m close, but patience is waning. How do I disconnect the crankshaft position sensor and neutral switch wiring harness? Here’s a pic. I’ve been pushing down the tab and pulling to no avail. Does the tab come out with the three wires going to the engine, or does it stay with those going to the main harness?
  5. Just Adam

    Just Adam Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2018
    Oddometer:
    215
    Location:
    Colorado
    Push the tab down. Slip a thin pick on top if it won't release. WD-40 may help.
    Bigger Al and Dan Diego like this.
  6. theofam

    theofam Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2009
    Oddometer:
    826
    Location:
    Denver
    Thin pick - good idea! I shot it with silicone lubricant before calling it a night. Hopefully tomorrow it’ll release.
    RunninRanger likes this.
  7. motobene

    motobene Motoing for 49 years Supporter

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2013
    Oddometer:
    6,700
    Location:
    Wichita Mountains SW Oklahoma
    Great electrical connectors are a wonder of technology. I love it how I can pressure wash a car engine and no issue starting it right after. That just did not happen in the old days!

    But there are so damned many connector designs, and too many with inscrutable locking methods. Just when I think I've seen them all some new one will come my way and I'll look all over for the mystery lock with the initials WTF... scrolling by in the brain.

    At least the ones on the KLR aren't ridiculously inscrutable, even if they can get balky.

    Got one FI connector on my Beta I never did figure out (in part because it's hard to get to). So I've one connector on that bike I haven't been able to stuff with silicone grease:dirtdog
  8. 2combs

    2combs Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 16, 2010
    Oddometer:
    266
    Location:
    Jackson, Ms
    LngRidr, Dread, ZachM1 and 4 others like this.
  9. RunninRanger

    RunninRanger Rainy day Rider Supporter

    Joined:
    Jul 16, 2013
    Oddometer:
    1,051
    Location:
    Roaming the US in a motorhome
    I ordered a Eagle Mike's thermo-Bob. Gotta get control of those crazy temperature swings. Something to work on while I wait on my Tusk Highland soft luggage to arrive.
    Income tax returns can be slow sometimes!
    Bigger Al and merc16 like this.
  10. laurient

    laurient Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2014
    Oddometer:
    322
    Location:
    QLD
    Cleaned , sanded and sealed the spoke holes in my front rim in preparation to go tubeless
    I am not as confident with this one as the rim has a different shape , no small ridge behind the bead
    black is rear , white is front . using sikaflex fc 11 and fc 11 +
    and stainless valves , total cost around $40 au
    if it does not work i can just remove the valves and re fit the tubes
    my trail stand made from an old crutch works pretty good .
    jack and stand because I'm not that trusting

    DSC00219 copy.JPG DSC00336.JPG DSC00342.JPG
    RunninRanger and thechief86 like this.
  11. gumbellion

    gumbellion Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 18, 2008
    Oddometer:
    634
    Location:
    Ontario, Canada
    I just did KLX install, cheap muffler mod, L mod and Uni-filter

    The bike runs awesome but has a stumble if you open the throttle fast at idle.

    Would adjusting the air screw fix this, and if so in or out? I have the screw at 1 3/4 turns as per instructions
    RunninRanger likes this.
  12. RunninRanger

    RunninRanger Rainy day Rider Supporter

    Joined:
    Jul 16, 2013
    Oddometer:
    1,051
    Location:
    Roaming the US in a motorhome
    Eagle Mike's recommendation was 2nd notch on the needle for the E-clip and 2 and 1/2 turns o the air/fuel mixture screw.
    This rec. Was for a 142 jet and FMF Q4 pipe. Did you drill a second hole in the slide? EM gave options for that as well. But these changes made my 15' at 4150ft elevation run MUCH better. But my air/fuel screw was initially closed by the factory and was very hard starting...understandably so.
    It's may take some adjustments to dial it in.
  13. DannyDeeders

    DannyDeeders n00b

    Joined:
    Mar 26, 2020
    Oddometer:
    2
    Location:
    Waynesboro, VA
    Hey guys, prospective KLR owner here. My only experience is with dirt bikes but I've always been interested in getting on the road with a KLR 650. I'm going to check out a 2001 KLR 650 on Sunday, not really sure what to look out for or if a 2001 is too old. I'm looking for a Gen 1 KLR 650 and this one fits the bills specifically because this bike has a ton of great accessories I woulda wanted and it looks well maintained from the limited photos. I'll post a link to it as well.

    Help a brother out, please! ;)

    https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/698264704046985/
  14. Pollack

    Pollack Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 31, 2014
    Oddometer:
    1,126
    If I were going to buy a used KLR I would make sure it had the 'doo hickey' or idle counter balance lever replaced with an Eagle Mike version. I would stay away from an 08 / 09 as well, those tend to use some oil. Regarding the one you posted about, 39K on the clock is a good bit. You can probably find one with less miles from around the same price, YMMV.....

    Best regards,
    ZachM1 likes this.
  15. DannyDeeders

    DannyDeeders n00b

    Joined:
    Mar 26, 2020
    Oddometer:
    2
    Location:
    Waynesboro, VA
    Thanks for the advice. So 40k miles is pretty high for a KLR?
  16. EnduroRdr

    EnduroRdr Woods Racer & D/S Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2008
    Oddometer:
    2,684
    Location:
    Formerly BR-LA, LR-AR, Houston-Tx, now South MS
    Yea it’s pretty high for a single cylinder thumper.

    There are many on here that are going to disagree, stating “ I got 50k or 60k” etc.
    High mileage klr’s do exist but how they were maintained makes all the difference.

    I got 30k on my 2007, and I’d have no reservations at riding it coast to coast.

    But I know how every mile was accumulated and the maintenance done.

    But as a rule (at least for me), I’d be a little Leary of big thumper with over 20k if not knowing the history.

    Nice Gen 1 bikes with under 10k are out there at $3000 or less.

    The one you listed looks pretty good in pic and is well dressed up on accessories.

    If you’re mechanically incline, klr’s are pretty easy and economical to rebuild with 685 kits.

    IMG_3100.jpg
  17. Pollack

    Pollack Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 31, 2014
    Oddometer:
    1,126
    I agree with the previous post, a lot of good info there. I have a 13' with 36K on the clock, YMMV....

    Best regards,
  18. lonegunm4n

    lonegunm4n Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2017
    Oddometer:
    208
    Location:
    Texas!
    I bought a ~4600 mile '07 Gen 1 for $3k. It's super clean and was well worth the money to me.
    thechief86 and ZachM1 like this.
  19. thechief86

    thechief86 jack of all daniels

    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2015
    Oddometer:
    1,716
    Location:
    Bethpage, TN
    Anybody know what stuff would keep a KLR from starting? I push the button, nothing happens. Been intermittent and not really a problem until today, but now will not start for anything.
    This is an electrical, no click or anything kind of no-start. I have bypassed the kickstand switch, but not the clutch switch.
    Neutral light is on, pulling clutch doesn't make a difference. Nuthin.
    Today I rode with Canyon Man a little bit, but then my backup bike crapped out, too.
    The old pumper carb (on my dr350)
    kinda fell apart, when the needle clip and screws for the slide all came apart at the same time apparently.
    The KLR is still a mystery, though. My first step will be to bypass the clutch switch, but I figured if the bike was in neutral, the clutch didn't matter?
    Canyon Man likes this.
  20. Bigger Al

    Bigger Al Still a stupid tire guy Supporter

    Joined:
    Oct 12, 2004
    Oddometer:
    9,689
    Location:
    Auburn, CA
    Check the starter solenoid. Sometimes corrosion can get in there and make things intermittent.
    RunninRanger and thechief86 like this.