KLR650 Only Thread......

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by willys, Nov 19, 2011.

  1. 810H4Z4RD

    810H4Z4RD Old n00b

    Joined:
    Apr 30, 2013
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    NE Wyoming
    But the plunger should open fully, regardless of whether you're using the OEM cabled plunger or a cable eliminator, correct? Mine opened fully with the cable, but only seems to open partially with the manual non-cabled one.
  2. baldman1

    baldman1 Long timer

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    Jan 18, 2013
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    2,396
    I just installed the EM 685 kit and Klx needle kit. I started with the recommended main jet #140 with needle clip in the #2 clip. Anything past 1/2 throttle after warming up it misses really bad. Went down to a 135 main runs much better but still rich. I'm looking at going to a 132 but wow that is smaller than what everyone else seems to be running. It has an FMF Q4 , uni filter with snorkle pulled and the 685 kit and I'm at sea level
  3. dualindalton

    dualindalton Been here awhile

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    Jun 9, 2008
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    North Ga.- slightly toward the west
    I replaced the cable operated enricher with the Stead Engineering cable less and it took a little bit of fine tuning to get it right but it has been working great for 4 years now. On the Stead piece, there is a set screw that sets the tension/pressure of the plunger. This is where the "fine tuning" needed to be done. If the set screw is to loose the plunger will vibrate its way back in and not idle up significantly. Likewise if the set screw is to tight the plunger will not come all the way out again not allowing the idle to fully come up. When the set screw "sweet spot" is found, wrap a layer of gorilla tape around the barrel to secure the set screw.

    This process does require removing the carburetor and adjusting the set screw until you get it right. Fortunately I only had to remove it once to see what was going on and adjust it accordingly. IF the screw is causing your problem this should fix it. IF that doesn't work, I would pull it out and take a look at the installation process just to make sure you didn't miss anything.

    Hope this helps and good luck.
    810H4Z4RD likes this.
  4. Bipolar

    Bipolar Been here awhile

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    There is a small spacer that goes on top of the clip on the metering needle. Some people mistakenly put it under the clip raising the needle too much.
    You have the spacer in the right location?
    tubebender likes this.
  5. motogoat

    motogoat Been here awhile

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    Dec 11, 2014
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    I didn't have to remove the carb to adjust the set screw for the Stead Engineering conversion, but it took a few tries to get it just right as dualindalton said, there are instructions at Stead's site: https://steadengineering.com/shop/ols/products/disassemblyassembly-instructions-for-klrs-and-atvs
  6. gaiaRTW

    gaiaRTW Been here awhile

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    May 21, 2019
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    119
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    USA
    Hello KLR Inmates,
    I searching for a Gen1 (02) rear pigtail for the wiring harness that's needed in order to straighten the mess with my rear flashers, and tailight. Does anyone have a decent (no missing connectors) pigtail laying about?

    I'm about to rewire the rear myself, but want to give a shout out for a decent replacement before I scour the town for proper electrical connectors. I hate those cheap insulated connectors found at the local auto parts stores.

    PM me if you have an extra pigtail laying about.
  7. Bakfarht

    Bakfarht Been here awhile

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    Nov 13, 2018
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    Calgary
    Lots of talk about the gen 1 brakes, has always had me a bit worried and thinking about upgrading. I keep the pads good and flush the lines occasionally, helps a bit but no big difference. I've never really been bothered though because I have the habit of down shifting anyway...

    Well a few days ago I'm in traffic and all of a sudden everybody stops. I braked hard and actually skidded on the tires a bit - haven't done that since my twin rotor FZ6. The bike stayed balanced and I stopped easily, no panic. I was actually proud of my old pig and made me rethink the stock setup, maybe not so bad after all.
  8. buckthedog

    buckthedog Eastbound and down

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    Good deal.^^^^ Glad you're safe. It's kind of like the overall KLR motto in that it's always kind of sketchy whether it'll do "it" or not, but when the chips are down, and sh*t hits the fan, the KLR just pulls through and gets the job done. That's the beauty of the bike in that it just gets the job done. Not the best, fastest, coolest, sexiest, but it's like the reliable employee who clocks in AND out on time, doesn't abuse pto/sick leave, if you give them an assignment, you can count on it being done, and you can totally rely on 24/7/365. They seldom are the ones promoted as they aren't the flashiest or the "yes men" but you're grateful everyday for them.
  9. gaiaRTW

    gaiaRTW Been here awhile

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    When I first got my 02, I was fully concerned of the braking power (or lack of) on the KLR. After upgrading to a 320mm front rotor, I swapped back to stock after the Tusk warped and was useless. Since then, I've grown accustomed to the stock braking power and has actually done pretty darned good at keeping me safe and the bike in one piece.
    patrkbukly and PlowHand like this.
  10. gaiaRTW

    gaiaRTW Been here awhile

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    Pulling the choke cable and replacing with a manual plunger was the best mod I've done on the Gen1. The plunger will open all the way if...you give it a shot of WD every once in awhile. I believe, because of the different metals (copper/aluminum) used in engineering the plunger, a bit of (rust) will build up which causes resistance as your opening the choke. WD would temporarily solve the prob, the other is to disassemble the manual plunger and re-assemble with some plumbers silicone grease.
    810H4Z4RD likes this.
  11. baldman1

    baldman1 Long timer

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    Yep everything is in the right place.
  12. buckthedog

    buckthedog Eastbound and down

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    Did you replace your jets? I've heard that some of them are not marked the same as the oem sizes. Cam chain jump some teeth? I would think if you bungled something up, you'd be more apt to have a lean condition, say if the airbox boot wasn't seated right, or the choke plastic thing cracked on your carb, etc. When warm, and you apply the choke, does it run better or worse? Better would indicate a lean condition. I'd start by retracing your steps since you did the 685 and your carb. Sorry if you've done all this, just throwing some initial thoughts out there. Lastly, it could be ignition related ? Maybe your coil got cracked?
  13. Windborne11

    Windborne11 Been here awhile

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    Aug 23, 2018
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    East of the West Coast
    I have always thought the KLX needle was WAY to rich. If all else fails, maybe try the original KLR needle, and experiment with the spacer underneath so you are a bit richer than stock.
  14. baldman1

    baldman1 Long timer

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    I've spent hours trying to dial in the stock needle never could get rid of the lean surge and the huge flat spot in the mid range. The klx needle got rid of those issues just now it's rich on top so I'll just put in a 132 main and see.
    Robotaz likes this.
  15. Robotaz

    Robotaz Adrenalin Freak

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    Apr 15, 2009
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    512
    Curious to hear how it works out.
  16. Bruce curtis

    Bruce curtis Indi scot

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    Oct 21, 2015
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    Scotland
    In terms of braking, I have steel braided lines, but otherwise stock.

    I find that if enough rear brake is added, the dive becomes a sort of squat, and the whole bike sort of sits dowm and stops fine.

    If I try that on my ‘95 tenere the back skids instantly, and I have to rely on just the front brake, which actually is harder to pull than the ‘88klr .

    if you are used to 90/10% front to rear braking, and do that on the klr, it will dive alarmingly at the nose.
    60/40% feels safer.
    gfh likes this.
  17. Tsotsie

    Tsotsie Semi-reformed Tsotsi Supporter

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    South Texas
    As with carb mods and pipes, 'brake feel' is subjective.

    Years ago, the publication Motor Cycle Consumer News (closed down now) used to publish actual measured bike time and stopping distance ability. If I recall, back in 08 the KLR Gen 2 was 'similar' to other bikes in its bike type category stopping performance. Then the 320 mm disc and bracket became available. Someone calculated that disc as giving, based upon the added leverage, an 18% added braking ability. I am not aware of anyone doing actual on-the-road stopping measurements with the 320. That, together with the steel braded lines gives one added feel and modulating ability.

    Compared to my 2004 BMW R1150R (which is not servo assisted), both the front and back brakes of the KLR are seriously underperforming.

    On my 08 and with the 320 I have lifted the rear wheel off the ground in an emergency at speed with a full camping load. I guess ones ability to apply the brakes can be strong if need be.
  18. RunninRanger

    RunninRanger Rainy day Rider Supporter

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    Roaming the US in a motorhome
    I doubt that my hand strength is exceptional but, I can lock my front brake up with standard equipment. I did own 3 BMW GSs prior. Yes their brakes are superior but my KLR doesn't move at 135mph either. Yes in steep winding canyons the KLR brakes get warm and don't perform like "other" machines, but I learn to recognize my wallet is so fat with cash that I didn't spend on that "other" machine that I simply ride w/I the capabilities of this bike.
  19. ZachM1

    ZachM1 I'm a meat popsicle

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    Milligan
    Exactly.
    RickyBilly, RunninRanger and PlowHand like this.
  20. Bakfarht

    Bakfarht Been here awhile

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    Nov 13, 2018
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    Calgary
    Like the old John Deere on the farm
    RunninRanger and PlowHand like this.