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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by willys, Nov 19, 2011.
A lot of KLR what?
I’m thinking they meant accessories
sorry klr 650 ... yes assessories
Broadly speaking, all of them.
OR, install the Outex, realize it was nearly too narrow, then order the 3M industrial sealing tape and install over the Outex. Report potentially coming in a few weeks :)
For accessories, I'd look at Procycle (great vendor) or Rocky Mtn ATV MC. They also sell Eagle Mike stuff, like subframe bolts, doo hickey kits, etc. Both are really solid places. Procycle if you want to support the smaller guy, and RMATV if you want a massive selection of parts.
+1 for pro cycle and Eagle Mike himself. Very good luck with each to-date.
Procycle owner is somewhat of a DR650 guru if memory serves. Point is, he’s a rider not just a parts seller.
Like asking the kid behind a parts counter a question. It’s useless. It’s like asking my Dog to make me coffee. Same quizzical look, ability and outcome.
At Rocky Mtn Atv they develop a ton of products, host rides and their ride videos on YouTube are pretty cool.
Like pink or yellow lemonade, both excellent choices.
Eaglemikes was the magic. thanks for all the suggestions. Will hang a spare of garage wall for the future.
Follow up on my last starting issue. Replaced my starter relay and things were working. Went in yesterday to troubleshoot some of my accessories not working, and replace a damaged fuse panel (which has the two stock fuses as well). Put everything together, realized I had blown my main fuse for the fuse box and replaced that. I think I got one crank and it went straight to clicking (it's possible it didn't crank).
Relay clicks when I press the starter. Jumping the battery + to the starter turns it over. Jumping the two relay terminals doesn't. To me that sounds like there's something between the relay and the battery? What could that be?
I did note my exhaust had burned the ground from the starter, but the wire seems fine, just the sheath is burned.
Get your meter out. Start by checking voltage AT the starter. Should be about the same as the voltage at the relay, and at the battery. You know there is continuity to the starter, so next, disconnect the battery, and start Ohming it out. 10 ga wire will have a resistance of about 1.0 Ohms per foot, so if you ohm out the section from the relay to the starter and it says something like 40.00 you've found your problem and buy or make a new wire. IF your wire is burnt there will be much greater electrical resistance, as the electrons are "bottlenecked" up in there, and the wire will get hot, and the problem worsens. Start at the disconnected battery, and ohm out each section of wiring in that circuit and you will rule in/out the good or bad sections. You may be getting a massive voltage drop in a segment of wiring due to the burn on the inside, or other causes, where you can't see it and your starter isn't getting the voltage to turn over.
Either way, by jumping it, you are bypassing whatever section may be questionable.
I was just jumping the main starter relay, while you were posting I went to the next logical assumption and jumped battery+ to starter relay batter side and it started with the button. Fiddled with the battery terminals a bit and now she's running well (well ish, it's a constant project ). Thanks! What had been throwing me was that all the other power was fine, and the terminals were right. Might be time to replace the bolts and some of the ring connectors.
Good! Intermittant voltage or loose connections can show up as any number of gremlins. More so on things that use/need a lot of juice, or on electronics. That would've been a $500 repair on some Euro bikes.
Well, today was a good day to whack my wheat. With a great deal of trepidation of cutting apart my 17 year old stock Gen1 fairing, I went ahead and did it. I didn't mind the ride, but I like clean air on my bikes, and having my visor up when I can. With what I'm guessing is the tall windshield on mine, it was hitting me about forehead level. Not the worst, but could be better. The fairing was also super flexy at speed. I do commend Kawasaki for using flexible plastics on these, much better than brittle breakable stuff. So, with hand tools, and dremel,
my trusty helpers
(not so much) and the residual effects of the anesthesia from my DDS visit, I went to town. Also, just because, I made mirror image wedges so the outside and inside each have a wedge...just because I like working with my hands. It'll be less flexy and look cleaner as my lines weren't the best. Now, don't be overly critical like a bunch of old hens, I did my best. I'm interested to see how it works.
Hey guys new to me gen 1, how do I know if this thing was lowered by the previous owner, the dog bone says "quality engineering", are those aftermarket, or is that how they come stock? The front shocks are not adjusted as I have read should be done when adding lowering links, but maybe the previous owner had no idea what they were doing.
With bags on the bike will fall over, and I can flat foot no problem, but it generally rides decent, only minor off road but no pogo-ing. I don't know about rear shocks so it could be a bad shock instead, but I am thinking this bike was lowered, with the stock side stand being too long and the weight of the bags causing it to sag/fall?? I am going to crank up the adjustment to see if anything changes.
I would start messing with it now instead of asking but the front wheel is off while I wait for a bearing, so trying to do what I can from the keyboard. Thanks!
Stock links say absolutely nothing.
EDIT: there's a post in this thread with lengths of some links. https://advrider.com/f/threads/klr650-only-thread.742912/page-1083#post-29612579
Great, don't have a tool to measure atm, but someone mentioned they should be stamped with the length, so I will take a look, thanks!
The forks can either be slid up into the trees... as in not flush with the top triple tree, OR lowered internally. No way of checking externally other than does the bike sit level? Or the front up/ass-down look these kids have on their lifted 4wd pickups ? Mine is lowered an inch and it’s a royal pain in my assholes with the standard length kickstand. You can crank your rear shock preload up to 5 if you’re a heavier fellow or get the kickstand cut down an inch, just have the foot welded back on. That’s on my “been meaning to do that” list for the past year.
Edit to add, at least you know the dog bones are “quality engineered “. Really though I’ve never seen the length stamped. It’s aftermarket so there’s no standard. Likely not. There’s a way to measure them compared to stock.
If you had a couple panniers with the long stand do you think it would fall over easily after you walked away, or do you think I am probably lowered and have a bad shock. I feel like I would know if a shock was blown from my reading, but no real world experience with shocks...but it sits so low.
Buck - do you live around Biloxi?
I often ride DeSoto NF.
And yes I’ve had a few banana spiders across the trail
I know a lot of gravel between Hattisburg & Biloxi.