KLR650 Only Thread......

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by willys, Nov 19, 2011.

  1. Fixnfly

    Fixnfly Not found on the book of faces

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    Good idea.
    I should have used the leftover tape for the front wheel to do this.
    Screw it, it holds air just fine as is.
  2. Grinnin

    Grinnin Forever N00b Supporter

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    Wouldn't this put more edges near the valve stem? Not sure I'd want that.
    Fixnfly likes this.
  3. Fixnfly

    Fixnfly Not found on the book of faces

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    Instructions specify not to overlap the tape but for $120 you would think they would provide tape wide enough to do the job.
    beemerbum55, Andyota and Grinnin like this.
  4. jowannab

    jowannab Been here awhile

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    Nov 11, 2012
    Oddometer:
    670
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    Richland ...Lebanon mo
    what is the name of company that makes a lot of klr assey....thx
  5. buckthedog

    buckthedog Eastbound and down

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    901
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    South Mississippi
    A lot of KLR what?
  6. Cline.matt1

    Cline.matt1 Adventurer

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    I’m thinking they meant accessories
  7. jowannab

    jowannab Been here awhile

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    sorry klr 650 ... yes assessories
  8. RoberTx

    RoberTx Blind man ridin'

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    Broadly speaking, all of them.
  9. Andyota

    Andyota Adventurer

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    OR, install the Outex, realize it was nearly too narrow, then order the 3M industrial sealing tape and install over the Outex. Report potentially coming in a few weeks :)
    Fixnfly likes this.
  10. buckthedog

    buckthedog Eastbound and down

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    For accessories, I'd look at Procycle (great vendor) or Rocky Mtn ATV MC. They also sell Eagle Mike stuff, like subframe bolts, doo hickey kits, etc. Both are really solid places. Procycle if you want to support the smaller guy, and RMATV if you want a massive selection of parts.
    kf7ja and Bigger Al like this.
  11. Andyota

    Andyota Adventurer

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    +1 for pro cycle and Eagle Mike himself. Very good luck with each to-date.
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  12. buckthedog

    buckthedog Eastbound and down

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    Procycle owner is somewhat of a DR650 guru if memory serves. Point is, he’s a rider not just a parts seller.

    Like asking the kid behind a parts counter a question. It’s useless. It’s like asking my Dog to make me coffee. Same quizzical look, ability and outcome.

    At Rocky Mtn Atv they develop a ton of products, host rides and their ride videos on YouTube are pretty cool.
    Like pink or yellow lemonade, both excellent choices.
    Bigger Al and kf7ja like this.
  13. Cereal KLR

    Cereal KLR Wall of Sound Supporter

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  14. Adiventure

    Adiventure Been here awhile

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    Newton MA
    Follow up on my last starting issue. Replaced my starter relay and things were working. Went in yesterday to troubleshoot some of my accessories not working, and replace a damaged fuse panel (which has the two stock fuses as well). Put everything together, realized I had blown my main fuse for the fuse box and replaced that. I think I got one crank and it went straight to clicking (it's possible it didn't crank).

    Relay clicks when I press the starter. Jumping the battery + to the starter turns it over. Jumping the two relay terminals doesn't. To me that sounds like there's something between the relay and the battery? What could that be?

    I did note my exhaust had burned the ground from the starter, but the wire seems fine, just the sheath is burned.
  15. buckthedog

    buckthedog Eastbound and down

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    Get your meter out. Start by checking voltage AT the starter. Should be about the same as the voltage at the relay, and at the battery. You know there is continuity to the starter, so next, disconnect the battery, and start Ohming it out. 10 ga wire will have a resistance of about 1.0 Ohms per foot, so if you ohm out the section from the relay to the starter and it says something like 40.00 you've found your problem and buy or make a new wire. IF your wire is burnt there will be much greater electrical resistance, as the electrons are "bottlenecked" up in there, and the wire will get hot, and the problem worsens. Start at the disconnected battery, and ohm out each section of wiring in that circuit and you will rule in/out the good or bad sections. You may be getting a massive voltage drop in a segment of wiring due to the burn on the inside, or other causes, where you can't see it and your starter isn't getting the voltage to turn over.

    Either way, by jumping it, you are bypassing whatever section may be questionable.
  16. Adiventure

    Adiventure Been here awhile

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    I was just jumping the main starter relay, while you were posting I went to the next logical assumption and jumped battery+ to starter relay batter side and it started with the button. Fiddled with the battery terminals a bit and now she's running well (well ish, it's a constant project ). Thanks! What had been throwing me was that all the other power was fine, and the terminals were right. Might be time to replace the bolts and some of the ring connectors.
    lwood10 likes this.
  17. buckthedog

    buckthedog Eastbound and down

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    Good! Intermittant voltage or loose connections can show up as any number of gremlins. More so on things that use/need a lot of juice, or on electronics. That would've been a $500 repair on some Euro bikes.
    patrkbukly likes this.
  18. buckthedog

    buckthedog Eastbound and down

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    Well, today was a good day to whack my wheat. With a great deal of trepidation of cutting apart my 17 year old stock Gen1 fairing, I went ahead and did it. I didn't mind the ride, but I like clean air on my bikes, and having my visor up when I can. With what I'm guessing is the tall windshield on mine, it was hitting me about forehead level. Not the worst, but could be better. The fairing was also super flexy at speed. I do commend Kawasaki for using flexible plastics on these, much better than brittle breakable stuff. So, with hand tools, and dremel, IMG_8625.JPG my trusty helpers IMG_8609.JPG (not so much) and the residual effects of the anesthesia from my DDS visit, I went to town. Also, just because, I made mirror image wedges so the outside and inside each have a wedge...just because I like working with my hands. It'll be less flexy and look cleaner as my lines weren't the best. Now, don't be overly critical like a bunch of old hens, I did my best. ;) I'm interested to see how it works.

    Attached Files:

  19. WileyRTW

    WileyRTW Wiley

    Joined:
    Jun 17, 2009
    Oddometer:
    705
    Location:
    San Diego, Ca
    Hey guys new to me gen 1, how do I know if this thing was lowered by the previous owner, the dog bone says "quality engineering", are those aftermarket, or is that how they come stock? The front shocks are not adjusted as I have read should be done when adding lowering links, but maybe the previous owner had no idea what they were doing.

    With bags on the bike will fall over, and I can flat foot no problem, but it generally rides decent, only minor off road but no pogo-ing. I don't know about rear shocks so it could be a bad shock instead, but I am thinking this bike was lowered, with the stock side stand being too long and the weight of the bags causing it to sag/fall?? I am going to crank up the adjustment to see if anything changes.

    I would start messing with it now instead of asking but the front wheel is off while I wait for a bearing, so trying to do what I can from the keyboard. Thanks!
  20. Grinnin

    Grinnin Forever N00b Supporter

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    Stock links say absolutely nothing.

    EDIT: there's a post in this thread with lengths of some links. https://advrider.com/f/threads/klr650-only-thread.742912/page-1083#post-29612579
    WileyRTW likes this.