KLR650 Only Thread......

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by willys, Nov 19, 2011.

  1. WileyRTW

    WileyRTW Wiley

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    Appreciate it, but I have no need for a center stand (though a good suggestion), and do not want the extra weight, my bags are heavy and my bike is already crazy low. I am using one those trail repair jack side stands I got a decade ago or so, which has come in extremely handy to combat the annoyance (think it was from Eagle Mike). I will make it work, but was disappointed after adjusting the preload and sitting higher....but once the bags were loaded it went right back to the same low height, my shock just sucks, weather it has an issue or not.
    XDragRacer likes this.
  2. Grinnin

    Grinnin Forever N00b Supporter

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    My Gen 1 with side cases did sag a lot on the stock shock and stock links. That's static sag without me onboard. I cranked the preload up to max and left it there. It was mostly OK and bottomed only on one trip on one road in Yukon and that was because I was hitting big washouts way too fast. The entire time I owned it I did have to look for parking spaces with that tilted slightly down to the left. That put the sidestand foot lower than the tire contact patches so the bike didn't sag past vertical and on over to its side.

    For each of my bikes, I learn about the sidestand then look for matching parking spaces. Some bikes it's down to the left and some bikes it's down to the right. Some bikes work on level but usually work better one slant or the other.
    WileyRTW likes this.
  3. buckthedog

    buckthedog Eastbound and down

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    ^^^ I feel your pain. It's a hassle for sure. I'd give you my stock bones, but I am leaning to going back to stock and going with the Seat Concepts low seat. Should even out.

    So, today, after my wheatwacker project the other day, I got tired of faded, grimy plastics. So, I gathered my helpers, image8.jpeg but they turned out to be mostly useless. I pulled my plastics. This is what I was dealing with... image5.jpeg . I did half the fender for comparison purposes. So, hours of sanding, sanding, sanding, and used my boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits, buffing, a cup of coffee, more of the former, and some Meguires Back-to-Black (not a political statement, just a product, people) and this is my final product. View attachment 2616855 image2.jpeg image3.jpeg View attachment 2616855 I know some of you don't care, but I do. It gives me an opportunity to check nuts, bolts, chain, electrics, etc. Make sure that if I go out or for a ride with my wife or kid that the bike won't fail. Plus, with 2 kids in college/university, I don't have the discretionary income to just buy whatever I want, so I keep the stuff I do own in the best condition I can. You may think it's a waste of time, and that's ok by me. I spent a pretty, warm day outside with my kids, my dog and his best friend, my cats, and some down time from a VERY stressful career.

    Attached Files:

  4. ZachM1

    ZachM1 I'm a meat popsicle

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    Looking good.
  5. buckthedog

    buckthedog Eastbound and down

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    Thanks Zach... we'll see if it stays that way. The upkeep may not be so bad. I still like your camo one just verrryyyyyy slightly more. ;)
    ZachM1 likes this.
  6. WileyRTW

    WileyRTW Wiley

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    Jun 17, 2009
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    Hey guys, my carb is filling with gas. I believe it only happens with the petcock set normally, not when it is set to reserve, but I will run it with the petcock set to reserve to see if it still fills up now that I have drained it. I am watching a vid on carbs but I don't know petcocks/carbs, so while I will take it apart, do you think its a stuck needle, or does the petcock setting tell you anything?

    My bike had previously sat for 10 years , the vid shows me how to check the float valve and float valve o-ring, so I will test those as well. If it is the o-ring, I am in Mexico, can I just have someone make one or do I need to order an o-ring if bad?

    Thanks Amigos
  7. Pollack

    Pollack Adventurer

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  8. buckthedog

    buckthedog Eastbound and down

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    If your bike sat 10 years it's going to need a lot more than some minor carb/petcock work. That said, the gateway to the carb getting gas is the petcock. The carb cannot draw it in on it's own. It happens via either gravity or vacuum. I'd look at the petcock first. It's the simplest. If there are Kawasaki stores, I believe one from a Raptor may fit. A small engine mechanic may be able to rig yours up. I'd only look at the carb if your engine is filling with gas. That would be a stuck float valve. Not sure how close you are to the border, shipping, have another vehicle, etc. But can't go wrong with the Eagle Mike link above. 30 min fix at most. I'd also replace the fuel line.
    Late for the Party likes this.
  9. WileyRTW

    WileyRTW Wiley

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    Thanks, unfortunately he has been out of them for a bit which is why I didnt get one prior to leaving. Site says he hopes to have them in Nov...but due to my current situation I am going to push on if possible.

    How do I tell if it is filling the engine? If the reserve is working fine I will just push on, not near a border and only traveling on the moto...which is why I am going to look into it more myself in a few days. I had to drain the float bowl twice the other day, yesterday was fine since it was on reserve from the start, though I wat to crack the float bowl drain and see whats up.

    Thanks to both of you.
    Pollack likes this.
  10. F150

    F150 Been here awhile

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    Wiley, is the bowl overflowing or is the “carb filling with gas”? Bowl would overflow down plastic tubing and appear under bike. Not sure how you determine the carb is filling. Think I’d use clear poly tubing on drain nipple, crack open the bowl drain screw and check float/bowl level first. If the tank is gravity draining and filling the engine, gas bleeds past the rings, dilutes engine oil in crankcase. Open the oil fill cap and take a good sniff. If oil is gassy, get carb sorted and change the oil.
    WileyRTW likes this.
  11. XDragRacer

    XDragRacer Long timer Supporter

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    No fuel should flow from an OEM petcock, ON or RESERVE, with the engine off (vacuum from the engine is required to open the petcock). Fuel will flow from an aftermarket manually-actuated petcock in ON or RESERVE position, engine running or not.

    As to, "carb filling with gas," the float bowl fills when the petcock is open. A serviceable float valve prevents fuel from overflowing or entering a static engine.
  12. F150

    F150 Been here awhile

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    Sorry, in reading your post again it sounds like the issue is only when petcock open in Run position, but not Reserve, correct? Could very well be you have no carb issue but just a petcock issue.

    My '01 basically sat all its life. Acquired at bike age 18 with only 1410 miles. PO rode it 330 miles over the previous 8-9 years. So, needless to say, it sat full of rotten fuel for quite a while. Carb was in pretty good shape considering. Disassembled, cleaned seats, jets, passages and bowl, replaced bowl gasket, reassembled. What I thought was a carb issue turned out to be a torn diaphragm in the petcock. When cranking/running, the vacuum line would draw raw fuel through the tear and straight into the intake, bypassing the carb. $6 Amazon petcock (bought to verify this was the issue) and a golf tee in the petcock end of the vac line solved my issue. A few thousand carefree miles since, once JB Welded the brass nipple into the cheapo petcock. Kept falling out.

    Here's a thought (don't die, please; cold engine, don't swallow, etc.): if you get a piece of clear tubing, attach to vacuum port on the back of the petcock and pull (suck) vacuum with your mouth, any fuel that shows up in that clear tubing would indicate a torn diaphragm. That vacuum also opens the valve within the petcock, allowing gas to gravity drain to carb. Guess you could take the fuel line off the carb and put into a clear water bottle or similar container. Petcock set to Run. If dripping or flowing gas without vacuum, there's an issue. If no flow, apply vacuum to vac line. Should then see flow. Release vacuum, flow should stop. Do the same on Reserve position. Should get identical response.

    Buck, Pollack, does this go-no go approach make sense?
    buckthedog likes this.
  13. KPfromCT

    KPfromCT Adventurer

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    Aug 21, 2020
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    Here goes another KLR MOSFET regulator install. Why? If for no other reason the new one has sealed connectors and the original unit was getting a little crusty. The original may have been slightly under charging the bike when I used the heated grips and high beam. It always started, though.

    I opted for the Shindengen FH020AA. A real one. There are fakes out there. Stay tuned. The FH020AA has the same mounting holes as the original but it is longer. With the connectors it's a lot longer.
    IMGP2356sc.jpg

    I mentioned there were fakes out there. On the right below is the genuine article, which will usually run at least $100. On the left is the $22 eBay fake, sold as a FH020AA. Does the imposter work? I have no idea. I might dissect it for fun.
    IMGP2358s.JPG

    I believe in the integrity of crimped connections when they are done correctly and I will crimp these. I don't have the exact manufacturer's crimper, but I do have what's shown below left over from when the Pontiac dealer I worked for went out of business in 1989. The left crimper is for the wire crimp and the right crimper is for the seal crimp. In this case the A hole turned out to be the right cavity for the job.
    IMGP2360s.JPG

    As good a crimp as I'll get with these crimpers. I'll take it.
    IMGP2361sc.jpg

    As I mentioned before the FH020AA is larger than the original. In my case it fits with original bolts and location even though the ground wire gets pretty close to the mounting point for the air injection valve. I don't know if it fits if the valve is also installed. Mine went in the trash in 2008.
    IMGP2362s.JPG

    I now see 14.3V at the battery at idle with no accessories on. At 3000 RPM with the heated grips and high beam on I see 14.41V and it never goes higher. That'll do.

    Attached Files:

  14. motogoat

    motogoat Been here awhile

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    And how about the $22 version? will you plug it in and test it?
  15. KPfromCT

    KPfromCT Adventurer

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    Nope. I don't enjoy pain that much.
  16. Pollack

    Pollack Adventurer

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    Yeah, but I would just by a petcock on Amazon and be done with it.

    Best regards,
  17. F150

    F150 Been here awhile

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    Been happy with mine, once I JB'd the brass outlet nipple in place.
  18. WileyRTW

    WileyRTW Wiley

    Joined:
    Jun 17, 2009
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    Location:
    San Diego, Ca
    Internet is atrocious here, will do best I can to respond and research.

    I don't necessarily know it is the carb, and not just bowl that is filling, but a lot of gas comes out, I am only guessing it is more than the bowl will hold, I will try and capture it next time to gauge the amount. I will also look for the overflow hose mentioned, though if it the hose that comes from the float bowl drain in the diagram included, I do not have one of those....realize it is not a huge deal, just making sure that is the hose in question.

    Actually I may have been incorrect about the reserve issue, I was able to drain more fuel today, but cannot confirm it wasn't already there, and will need to watch to see if it is only filling when riding, or when parked, I assume I have the stock petcock.

    Today had a bunch of miles to get to my destination before dark, I couldn't look into any of it yet, but I am starting to think it could be a torn diaphragm as mentioned below. I do not have vacuum, but also do not know if I had it when purchased, or if I did something when in there installing the IMS tank so will take anther look.

    (For those aware of my shock issue, a full IMS tank was also causing the issue) I am not worried about running out, I have the 10 gallon IMS clear tank, with 7 usable gallons without vacuum, and can tip it over to get a bit more, but I assume I do not want to prolong the fix as the gas will probably damage gaskets or orings somewhere? Did not yet smell for gas by removing the oil cap yet, but that will be a quick check, so thanks! Quoting everyone so I have them in 1 spot due to internet, I will check these things tomorrow, thanks for the help..

    carburetor-1987-a1-kl650-north-america_bigkae0032e1611_88ee.gif


    Andyota likes this.
  19. WileyRTW

    WileyRTW Wiley

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    San Diego, Ca
    You guys sick of me yet? Another thing I need to check but believe it is ok as I read these run hot, was it spit coolant from behind the rear panel today (Cali Model, so I will look into what that stuff is). After a long day of highways carrying 3 bags of gear, just as I arrived at the hotel it started spitting coolant, but the gauge was normal. I suspect it was due to parking with the downward slope so it didn't tip, which probably caused the hot coolant to come out the rear from the cali box stuff in the back. I arrived just before dark so did not even look at the hose routing yet, but this is what I suspect happened due to my parking. Any red flags, or can I just adjust the coolant level and move on?
    IMG_20201030_174621568.jpg
    Mlew392 likes this.
  20. XDragRacer

    XDragRacer Long timer Supporter

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    WileyRTW, I don't understand fully your description of the symptoms you experience. Not trying to blow you off, but you may find this thread useful, regarding the operation and design of your carburetor:

    https://www.klrforum.com/threads/care-and-feeding-of-the-cvk40.45258/#post-417642

    (Click on the second line of the first post on this thread.)

    Should you wish to clean and adjust your carburetor, the following videos on the thread may be helpful.

    Don't know where you read KLRs run hot, but . . . not in my experience; YMMV.

    As to the coolant spilling; the KLR cooling system is pressurized; unless you over-filled the coolant reservoir, coolant on the ground suggests a leak; the lean angle is of no consequence regarding cooling system integrity.

    A Service Manual (e.g., Clymer) may be useful.
    Tsotsie likes this.