KLR650 Only Thread......

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by willys, Nov 19, 2011.

  1. Dno

    Dno Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2021
    Oddometer:
    213
    Location:
    Nc
    Originally I was told July when i placed a deposit on base non abs at end of March. I was hoping sooner. Looking foward to my first klr.
    By-tor likes this.
  2. skibo

    skibo Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 10, 2016
    Oddometer:
    29
    Location:
    On the road
    The red switch would come off, but holding it in there it would work. So I put epoxy in and taped it in the right place. You could do the same with a voltmeter. I ordered it from an OEM supplier, don't remember which. Not Ebay. Bike Bandit has it listed for $70 https://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/detail/kawasaki/27045-1071/b797392
    buckthedog likes this.
  3. XDragRacer

    XDragRacer Long timer Supporter

    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2009
    Oddometer:
    5,358
    As I read the wiring diagram available on the 'net for Generation 1s, the kill switch performs two functions: When ON, ignition-switched voltage is switched to one side of the starter button, ground-wire connection open; when, OFF, the voltage is removed from the starter button, the ground-wire is connected to the power lead to the CDI unit. Seems, to me, a double-pole, double-throw (DPDT) switch, properly connected, would fill the bill. DISCLAIMER: Never done it, circuit analysis conjecture only.
    buckthedog likes this.
  4. Andyota

    Andyota Adventurer

    Joined:
    Feb 18, 2012
    Oddometer:
    87
    Location:
    Corrales, NM
    Whatever the year, I love that color. good choice!
    HardWorkingDog likes this.
  5. By-tor

    By-tor Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2005
    Oddometer:
    406
    Location:
    Dallas, GA
    Post pics as soon as you take delivery.
  6. mgb71

    mgb71 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2014
    Oddometer:
    366
    Location:
    Glens Falls, NY
    I just got my 2006 (57,000 miles) put back together after doing the 685 conversion this winter. I did the KLX needle as well. I've taken it on two short rides so far and definitely notice a power improvement. It doesn't really accelerate any quicker but the power is more consistent throughout the RPM range and I don't have to downshift to go up hills anymore. I'm taking it out for a longer ride today but so far I'm pretty happy with it.

    At this point I've done all of these upgrades so there isn't much left to do:
    • EM 685 kit
    • EM KLX Needle kit
    • EM Doohickey
    • EM Fork Brace
    • EM Drill-Through Subframe Bolts
    • Thermo-bob
    • Moab Shock
    • Cogent DDC Fork Dampers & Springs
    • Lexx Exhaust
    • Hemispheres Offroad Fairing
    • Polisport Front Fender
    • Ricochet Offroad Skidplate
    • IMS Footpegs
    I also took the time to do some touch-up on the frame while I had the engine out and now the bike looks like new (sort of).
    KLR_685-1.jpg

    My garage isn't heated so I built an engine stand out of 2x4's and worked on it in my kitchen.
    KLR_685-3.JPG
    KLR_685-3a.JPG
    KLR_685-4.JPG
    KLR_685-5.JPG
    KLR_685-6.JPG
    KLR_685-8.JPG
    KLR_685-9.JPG
    Bigbob1, hansz, IA KLR and 15 others like this.
  7. mgb71

    mgb71 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2014
    Oddometer:
    366
    Location:
    Glens Falls, NY
    I took it out for about 250 miles today and was really loving the 685. I can power out of corners now and it doesn't get bogged down when I'm moving slowly through rough terrain. The power is just there when I need it. I sent EM my head too to get the valves cleaned up so it's probably getting better compression now as well which must be helping with the overall power improvement. It may be my imagination but the engine just sounds beefier (or maybe throatier) than it used to. I think my mpg may have dropped a bit though as I hit reserve around 210 miles and usually I can go until about 250. I'll have to keep an eye on that.

    I stopped for a photo op near a cool rock garden before it got too mudded up.
    Irish_Settlement_Rd_08MAY2021-1.jpg

    Irish_Settlement_Rd_08MAY2021-2.jpg
    hansz, AzMtnThumper, GPD323 and 5 others like this.
  8. Pollack

    Pollack Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 31, 2014
    Oddometer:
    1,313

    The bike looks wonderful, top shelf. The only other thing left to consider is using a product like ACF-50 or CorrosionX, ymmv.

    Best regards,
    merc16 likes this.
  9. Gravel Eddie

    Gravel Eddie Gravel Eddie

    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2008
    Oddometer:
    74
    Location:
    E Wa
    Kick-ass my brother, good stuff
  10. Baja_Bound

    Baja_Bound Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2011
    Oddometer:
    161
    Location:
    Texas
    Great job and beautiful bike! Out of curiosity, did you notice any difference in overall vibration with the 685 installed?
  11. Bigger Al

    Bigger Al Still a stupid tire guy Supporter

    Joined:
    Oct 12, 2004
    Oddometer:
    10,260
    Location:
    Auburn, CA
    @mgb71: nicely done up KLR! My mileage initailly went down after the 685 installation, but has steadily climbed back up as things have broken in. After 8K my mileage is up over 50MPG, which is about 5 MPG higher than it was before the kit. I have an IMS tank and usually go on reserve right at 300 miles.

    @Baja_Bound: vibes are greatly reduced with the EM pistons.
    ZachM1 likes this.
  12. Tachi

    Tachi n00b

    Joined:
    Mar 28, 2020
    Oddometer:
    8
    Location:
    Grand Rapids, Michigan
    that looks great. the 685 kit is one of the next big things for my bike. Seeing post like this makes it move a little higher on the list.
  13. Biologist_on_a_bike

    Biologist_on_a_bike n00b

    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2021
    Oddometer:
    4
    Location:
    Netherlands
    Hi fellow KLR lovers,

    I'm about to rebuild my gen1 ('87) engine and I was wondering if anyone has a comprehensive list of all the crankcase bearings you need for that?
    I've been looking on the internet but couldn't find it so far, and can be very helpful for people who decide to do a rebuild I think! If no one has it, I will make sure to put a list online after the rebuild myself :-)

    Another question:
    Are there major engine differences between a KLR gen 1 A,B, and C? I know that the cylinder is different after '96 (C-model), but can you swap parts between these engines? Or the better question maybe, which parts between the gen 1 engines can you not swap?

    The reason why I'm asking this is because my crankshaft bearing and sprocket are done, and I would like to get a new crankshaft. Only thing is that I don't know I can use the crankshaft from newer models.

    Anyone who can help me out with these questions?

    Cheers,
    Lennart
    ZachM1 likes this.
  14. mgb71

    mgb71 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2014
    Oddometer:
    366
    Location:
    Glens Falls, NY
    I haven't gone really high with the RPMs yet but so far it actually seems smoother with the 685 than it did stock.
  15. mgb71

    mgb71 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2014
    Oddometer:
    366
    Location:
    Glens Falls, NY
    Good suggestion. I was looking at some rust up inside the forward frame tube and was thinking about what to do for that.
    Pollack likes this.
  16. mgb71

    mgb71 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2014
    Oddometer:
    366
    Location:
    Glens Falls, NY
    I had been contemplating it for a couple of years and now I'm so glad I did it. It really changed the power characteristics of the bike and it is very fun to ride now. I took my time with it over the winter and changed out just about every o-ring and seal that I could without splitting the cases. I put in a new clutch while I was at it too. It feels like a brand new bike to me now.
    Bigger Al, Tachi and Pollack like this.
  17. Baja_Bound

    Baja_Bound Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2011
    Oddometer:
    161
    Location:
    Texas
    Thanks! I think the EM 685 kit is the next thing for me. :-)
    Bigger Al likes this.
  18. Cobalt23

    Cobalt23 Adventurer Supporter

    Joined:
    Apr 1, 2020
    Oddometer:
    88
    Location:
    38139
    Anyone know how to positively identify a Tengai?

    I have a few limited pics of a "KLR" about 3 hours from me. It is rough, if it is a Tengai the fairing is either from a reg KLR or ??? Gauges appear to be Tengai type. A lot of plastic is missing, tank is white/green/and poorly painted black on bottom 2/3, but the tank looks like it is Tengai (i.e. Japanese letters, lime green and blue on top. Confusing part is low BLUE front fender, see a lot with white but not blue?

    Trying to get more pics but has been difficult, it is listed as a KLR, so thinking seller doesn't know about Tengai???

    Any ideas?

    Thanks,

    C.B.

    Any help tengai.png
  19. Spigatelli

    Spigatelli Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 14, 2014
    Oddometer:
    42

    The rear footpegs are different on a Tengai. that is a Tengai frame. The tank and guages are also Tengai. The front fairing is not. If it doesn't have the side fairings, I don't know if you'll ever find a set or if you'll want to spend enough to pay for them if you do.
    Also missing the side plastics that go under the seat, those are different on a Tengai. There are normally brake covers for the rotors that appear to be missing.
    The fender was probably painted at some point, but looks stock.
    HardWorkingDog likes this.
  20. hansz

    hansz Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jan 25, 2007
    Oddometer:
    25
    Location:
    UY