KLR650 Only Thread......

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by willys, Nov 19, 2011.

  1. Kino

    Kino Adventurer

    Joined:
    Oct 8, 2018
    Oddometer:
    42
    Location:
    Europe
    Rewiring the bike is a good idea, i've never done that before but I plan on restoring many more bikes, learning it will be worth a lot to my projects.
    I'm going to start off with trying to create some proper grounds for current issues and see where that goes. I've ordered a replacement R/R but it's used because i wanted no issues with it being operative. Perhaps a brand new one would last longer.
    gpfan likes this.
  2. Royce Cochran

    Royce Cochran was 2bold2getold

    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2011
    Oddometer:
    5,726
    Location:
    Arlington, Texas
    Granted, a lot of people don't understand electronics and electrical systems, but most of them don't volunteer advice. I've been corrected by an expert or two about charging systems who were dead wrong.
  3. Pollack

    Pollack Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 31, 2014
    Oddometer:
    1,380
    Regarding the gen 3s. are their any oil consumption problems? Most new owners probably still haven't owned them long enough, my '13 started using oil at 18K. I doubt they addressed that, but I'm curious.

    Best regards,
  4. Bigger Al

    Bigger Al Still a stupid tire guy Supporter

    Joined:
    Oct 12, 2004
    Oddometer:
    10,540
    Location:
    Auburn, CA
    It might be a good idea to relocate the R/R from under the seat to an area that will let it get some more air. I put mine under the LH side cover.
  5. r/l

    r/l Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 20, 2010
    Oddometer:
    45
    Location:
    SW Michigan
    2013 Piston Part# 13001-0723, Ring Set Part# 13008-0554
    2022 Piston Part# 13001-0723, Ring Set Part# 13008-0595

    Rings have changed. You now know what I know.

    Oil consumption is dependent on too many factors to pin point to just a part number change.
    Pollack likes this.
  6. tubebender

    tubebender Shakin' all over

    Joined:
    Feb 8, 2007
    Oddometer:
    857
    Location:
    O-side
    I stopped by Eagle Mikes last week so I could ride one of his 22 models.
    I've had my Gen 1 for 15 years, and ridden numerous other KLR's of various years. While the Gen II has a couple of nice features, I never did like it that well.
    I rode 15 miles, a mix of freeway and city streets. My impressions were mostly positive, actually I only have one negative comment.
    The 3 things that stood at the most were stability, wind management, and the brakes.
    On the freeway, it felt a lot more stable then my Gen1. By that, I mean it didn't move around as much. It could be due to a longer swing arm (Mike said 2") or the more street oriented tire or a combination of both. On city streets it reacted nice and predictable; no bad manners. Spokes are a bigger diameter as well so there may be less flexing in the wheels.
    The stock windscreen is very good, it was mounted in the high position. I wear a Arai XD4, and I got a nice clean blast of air on the mid chest and helmet, and no buffeting, even in traffic.
    And the brakes! Wow, I never knew a stock KLR to stop that well! I did 4 or 5 heavy braking maneuvers and as I got more used to it I had the rear on the verge of lockup, but could modulate that easily. If they do a good job with the ABS it could be a really big selling point.
    Sitting on the bike the first time I noticed that the fuel tank is different, It's a bit fatter on the back and has less droop in the front. Ergos were nice, nothing jumped out at me, but then I wasn't wearing riding boots so it's hard to say. The isolated pegs and handle bars seem to do their job, again more of something I didn't notice. Seat was good too.
    The engine. Felt like a KLR - except - the on/off throttle transition is too abrupt. Other people have mentioned it so add me to the list. I stopped a dialed out all of the cable slack and while in made somewhat better it was still annoying in low speed city conditions. Mike says the idle speed is now at 1400 rpm, so if it is trying to get there after a fuel cut it could be a partial explanation. It's one of the things on his list to figure out. He's got a couple of things ready now; see following posts.
    Frame is different
    The stock engine protection bars (not on this bike) and luggage bars are nicely thought out and a good value. The aux light mount I thought was a bit fiddly, but that's just me.

    22 KLR 2.jpg

    Coil is now mounted just under the RH fairing
    22 KLR 6.jpg

    Looks like they added a protection hoop for the radiator.
    22 KLR 9.jpg

    This is unusual. I'd say they added this rubber ring to damp some sort of vibration noise, but for what?
    22 KLR 7.jpg
  7. tubebender

    tubebender Shakin' all over

    Joined:
    Feb 8, 2007
    Oddometer:
    857
    Location:
    O-side
    Eagle Mike and Wattman have come up with a water temp solution using a Trailtech TTO Temp unit and the Thermobob housing.
    He also tells me you can use the TTO Tach unit for RPM.
    He has a number of them in stock.

    22 KLR 4.jpg

    22 KLR 1.jpg
  8. tubebender

    tubebender Shakin' all over

    Joined:
    Feb 8, 2007
    Oddometer:
    857
    Location:
    O-side
    2 other things.
    The primary exhaust pipe diameter has been reduced. I think they did a shitty job of it. On the other end it looks like the muffler exit is a larger diameter and can be removed.

    22 KLR 5.jpg

    The speedo pick up is now the counter shaft nut. 'head scratchy thingy'
    22 KLR 8.jpg
    SwampyDeadHead and Dno like this.
  9. Dno

    Dno Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2021
    Oddometer:
    999
    Location:
    Nc
    Gen3
    If I never completely close the throttle or from a closed throttle open in a linear smooth action there will not be a surge. Or I can turn the bike into a bucking bronco if I choose. A lighter return spring would be nice though.
  10. tubebender

    tubebender Shakin' all over

    Joined:
    Feb 8, 2007
    Oddometer:
    857
    Location:
    O-side
    Yes, I've seen your posts in the other thread. My experience is the same. But I thought the throttle tension was a bit light.
    Dno likes this.
  11. Dno

    Dno Been here awhile

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    Mar 30, 2021
    Oddometer:
    999
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    Only thing I can come up with is the IAC valve is getting activated at 0% throttle. Dont know the parameters of the activation. The cables should be set like any other bike. And grease helps to be smooth going from 0% back to load. Maybe the valve needs better dampening. Data logging would help.

    Really not a big issue more of a character trait of the setup. Im sure all this is being read by someone inside or the aftermarket. Probably an easy fix. Some of it is we all get used to light pull docile cv carbs or sophisticated engine management. There also might be benefits to the gen3 system descending hills off road. Where the next crack of throttle is for a gear change. Then it would never be noticed.
    Just Adam and tubebender like this.
  12. Dno

    Dno Been here awhile

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    Mar 30, 2021
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    999
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    Nc
    No mention of the big washer on the header. Must be a heat shield for o2 sensor. I thought it was ingenious.
  13. Dno

    Dno Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2021
    Oddometer:
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    Nc
    Also 3 layers of heat shield on the airbox as well. I still dont want to idle much on a hot day and a note in the manual says no to extended idling.
  14. gordjones

    gordjones RAT

    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2008
    Oddometer:
    45
    Location:
    Toronto, Canada
    Best stay out of summer traffic I guess ...

    Gord
    Dno likes this.
  15. Dno

    Dno Been here awhile

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    Mar 30, 2021
    Oddometer:
    999
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    Nc
    Just like all the other gens melting holes in the airbox. Kawi just trying to cover the issue on both ends.
  16. richrd

    richrd Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2007
    Oddometer:
    148
    So that I don't have to go 2000 pages, can you recommend a rear tire for about 50 /50 pavement and dirt road tire? Preferably less expensive than the Michelin I have on now.

    Tthanks
  17. gordjones

    gordjones RAT

    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2008
    Oddometer:
    45
    Location:
    Toronto, Canada
    Shinko 705 ?
    Fixnfly and PlowHand like this.
  18. Grinnin

    Grinnin Forever N00b Supporter

    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2005
    Oddometer:
    8,403
    Location:
    Maine, USA
    My go-to 50/50 was always TKC80. The Kenda Big Block K784 is cheaper but I didn't think the savings was worth slightly less performance.

    One tire I really like is the Tusk D-Sport rear tire. More aggressive than 50/50 but lasts for many miles. Unfortunately the D-Sport front isn't nearly as good for performance or for wear.
  19. Bakfarht

    Bakfarht Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2018
    Oddometer:
    282
    Location:
    Calgary
    Could be the last hurrah today for 2021 riding... snow in the forecast and sub freezing temps for the next couple of weeks. Was an interesting year to say the least, glad that I'm still able to ride. Looking forward to some great 2022 adventures. 20210728_114419.jpg
    Mlew392, gepeze, ausfahrt and 11 others like this.
  20. Johnnny13

    Johnnny13 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    May 14, 2016
    Oddometer:
    138
    Location:
    Texas
    I have a starting and running 2000 Gen 1. I've been restoring this so it technically never worked (It was in horrible shape). I'm trying to work this out in my mind so let me know if I'm going in the right direction here. The headlight, high beam indicator gauge cluster light, neutral gauge cluster indicator light all work. The bulbs for the tach, speed, and coolant temp do not work. I also have no power to the tail light and brake light where the front harness meets the rear harness, under the seat on the left side of the bike. I disconnected the harness where the two meet, turned the ignition to "on" (brand new OEM ignition), headlight comes on, no power from the main harness side except for the green (when the turn signal with engaged). I see the red wire runs through the ignition. The black and yellow wire does run from the rear harness and the front gauge lights that are not working.

    I'm going with the ground being bad? The only ground (besides the one on the starter and battery that grounds to the engine) that I know of is the ground on the coolant reservoir / electronics bracket at the right side of the bike. I swapped rectifiers / regulator from a working bike, no change. I also checked continuity from the black yellow ground at the rear harness connection to the connection at the ignition and there are no issues. Any ideas?
    1.jpg
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