KLR650 rebuild

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by LukeyMoonshine, Aug 27, 2019.

Tags:
  1. LukeyMoonshine

    LukeyMoonshine n00b

    Joined:
    Jul 10, 2014
    Oddometer:
    5
    Location:
    Southern Tasmania, Aus
    Hi all. I recently bought a very rough looking KLR650 for au $1k. It rode ok for the first 3 rides, then overheated once (was a very hot day), i let it cool down then rode on, then it did this.... exhaust cam is toast looks like the kick start legacy thingi effed out. I had just checked the oil and was 5k (3miles for all the seppos here) from where i started when "klunk" i lost power. I'm not familiar with Thumpers in general or the KLR specifically. I'm assuming this is toast? but i was wondering if the exhaust cam bearing surface could be replaced (or more to the point if there would be any point doing so) or if i should start looking for a new head, the valves look to still be ok as does the piston (i cracked open the head to have a peek) 20190827_152919.jpg 20190827_152930.jpg 20190827_152941.jpg 20190827_152950.jpg 20190827_201153.jpg
    #1
  2. Aprilia

    Aprilia Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 15, 2008
    Oddometer:
    1,774
    Location:
    Phoenix, AZ
    Typical sign/damage from running low on oil. Can it be repaired? yes, though sometimes not practical. You'll need to find a machinist familiar with this type of work. Its one of the reasons KLR heads have become so expensive the last few years...too many owners don't take the time to check oil levels regularly. Early Gen2 engines are known for drinking oil. Someone removed your auto decompression as well. Not really required...throw back from its kick start days. (I removed mine as well) Also, KLR's seem to run hot based on the gauge but if it actually overheated (puked coolant) you need to find out why. Not normal with this engine. I've run my engine in very high ambient temps...115F+ and never overheated.
    #2
    Tsotsie likes this.
  3. baldman1

    baldman1 Long timer

    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2013
    Oddometer:
    1,739
    It was run low on oil.
    #3
  4. Beezer

    Beezer Long timer Supporter

    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2004
    Oddometer:
    9,169
    Location:
    Anchorage, formerly Spenard (hub of the universe)
    yep. I've fixed a few. you need a serviceable head and exhaust cam for sure, possibly an intake cam as well. pull the head and barrel so you can check the con rod for signs of overheating... if there is any blue on the rod I would not trust that engine. if its OK you can flush the engine out & make it work. pull the waterpump and clutch side cover so you can get to the oil pump and pickup screen. that screen will be full of aluminum (so will the oil filter). the screen will also have gobs of case sealant unless someone has cleaned it before. check the oil pump for damage. there are no specs in the book but scratches can be lapped out. keep the clearances under about .003". the screws on the pump have thread locker & need heat to release. as for the piston.... there are no rings available for the Gen I piston, and Gen II is different.... there are options. the last of which would be using a Gen II piston from Kawi. if you decide to re-do this one, let us know
    #4
  5. LukeyMoonshine

    LukeyMoonshine n00b

    Joined:
    Jul 10, 2014
    Oddometer:
    5
    Location:
    Southern Tasmania, Aus
    The bike removed the auto decompression, that's what's left of it in the pan, it caused the camshaft to stall breaking the pin in the sprocket and thankfully saving the valves and piston. the camshaft is spinning freely in the sprocket
    #5