KLX 250s new to me, did I buy an orphan?

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by scareraven, Jan 1, 2020.

  1. scareraven

    scareraven Ninja Freak Supporter

    Joined:
    May 9, 2009
    Oddometer:
    911
    Location:
    the locals hate me
    So I just got a ‘12 KLX250s. It has been tossed down the road a bit and I need to get the carb sorted. here’s the rub, parts are not as easy to come buy as I thought.
    How long was this model run?
    There are a lot of ‘09’s listed around and I think they are the same bike, but don’t know.
    and are there aftermarket support for these? They are kind of haphazard with parts on different sites. I need a brake pedal and foot pegs. ‘Universal for’ ones and Rizoma ones are all I can find. I’m not looking to put RTW style adventure gear. But a few days camping/adventure
    And points in the right directions would help. thanks for your time.
    #1
  2. Beezer

    Beezer Long timer Supporter

    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2004
    Oddometer:
    9,351
    Location:
    Anchorage, formerly Spenard (hub of the universe)
    the KLX from the 90's were not street bikes. the street version has been around since '06, of which, there are 3 generations. 1st Gen is up to '08, Gen II is '09 to '14. the later Gen III is fuel injected. should be plenty of parts out there.

    I have Wolfman (something, I forgot) smallest tank bag they make on the tank... there is not much room for anything bigger. I also put their (small) saddlebags on the tank as well. I have the Giant Loop Coyote for when I actually go somewhere. pack light and its fine.

    there are power gains to be had with a different or modified exhaust but they all make more noise. the 300 cylinder fits right on, there is the Bill Blue 350 kit that apparently rocks. I did the MCM, 300 jet kit, and FMF Q4 exhaust... and thats good enough for me (for now).

    the gas tank is only 2 Gallons, so you have to watch the fuel. the good news is you can count on 60mpg even with the KLX300 jets (do it). the only direct fit aftermarket tank is the 3 Gal. IMS. the seat is buttfloss, Seat Concepts is an improvement. the suspension is too soft for regular sized people

    you will want the MCM mod (free) ask here....
    https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum/klx-250s-71/
    #2
    scareraven likes this.
  3. scareraven

    scareraven Ninja Freak Supporter

    Joined:
    May 9, 2009
    Oddometer:
    911
    Location:
    the locals hate me
    Thank you! It is all stick and I want to get it running after sitting for two years first. Starts, dies on throttle. That’s another fight.
    full disclosure: I have spent 14 years on the street, I did a trip with some friends camping off adventure bikes. So I have a KTM 990, for bigger trips. But I realized I suck in the dirt, so this is my learning tool. Thanks for the heads up on the parts. I’m finding some on revzilla, some on motosport, and some on amazon. But I’m surprised that I can’t find one outfitter that would have everything. Like you said, they shipped a butt load of these over a decent run.
    thanks for your time.
    #3
  4. Bitingdog

    Bitingdog That's not my dog

    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2015
    Oddometer:
    12,762
    Location:
    Vancouver B.C. rainforest
    RMATV. I just checked, they have every OEM part for your 2012 klx250s, and plenty of aftermarket accessories too.

    That's a pretty common dualspork, and it sells worldwide. It's not exotic, and it's not an orphan. It's like the Nissan Sentra of 250cc dualsport bikes
    #4
  5. Beezer

    Beezer Long timer Supporter

    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2004
    Oddometer:
    9,351
    Location:
    Anchorage, formerly Spenard (hub of the universe)
    "Starts, dies on throttle." .... first off, the KLX is cold blooded as hell. a normal start with stock components (properly adjusted) requires full "choke" (enricher), with ZERO throttle. then after it starts, it takes maybe 2 - 4 minutes before it will take throttle above high idle. even then you might need to goose it gently for another 5 until it warms up while you drive. how does that square with what you have? installing the klx 300 carb jets gets rid of that foolishness

    if not that.... carb problem, but be sure to check the fuel flow, fuel quality, and air filter first. and the gas cap vent if it's something that takes a while to happen
    #5
  6. scareraven

    scareraven Ninja Freak Supporter

    Joined:
    May 9, 2009
    Oddometer:
    911
    Location:
    the locals hate me
    To be honest I didn’t think I had bought an orphan, I was just surprised at the patchy aftermarket I was seeing. I can find parts haphazardly but OEM is not hard to source. Thanks for the feed back. I will look up that site
    #6
  7. scareraven

    scareraven Ninja Freak Supporter

    Joined:
    May 9, 2009
    Oddometer:
    911
    Location:
    the locals hate me
    Didn’t know that they were that cold blooded. I will check it all out in the next couple of days. I am a nightshift nurse and can’t always get to the garage reliably. Especially in the winter. Haha.
    I was planning on draining the fuel and the carb before trying anything. Firing it up with fresh high test. thanks for the heads up. New to these beasts.
    #7
  8. MotoChris521

    MotoChris521 expert apprentice

    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2007
    Oddometer:
    3,037
    Location:
    south west
    Beezer knows his stuff. The pilot jet is the cause of the off idle stalling. Either plugged or too small(stock). GLWB
    #8
    Ginger Beard and scareraven like this.
  9. scareraven

    scareraven Ninja Freak Supporter

    Joined:
    May 9, 2009
    Oddometer:
    911
    Location:
    the locals hate me
    Thanks. I have no plans to get a new exhaust yet, but likely in the future. Should I just get a size up jet? Or get a dynojet kit now so that I have more options in the future. Getting it running for now and playing with it is the main goal, but setting myself up for future upgrades is not out of the question.
    Thanks your advice Ya’ll
    #9
  10. abramsgunner

    abramsgunner Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2006
    Oddometer:
    814
    Location:
    Lower Alabama

    ^^^^ Here.... at least a month's worth of research material. I suggest you don't do anything until you read up and formulate a plan, otherwise you will be buying parts that you will then throw away as you learn more about what you want...LOL.

    Short version.

    There was a bunch of cool aftermarket parts for the '06-'07 model that didn't get remade for the '09+ (seats, tanks, plastics...)

    Several sites offer a complete list of OEM parts... '09 - '14 are the same beyond color (and 18+ are mostly the same). Part prices fluctuate between model year (09-14) so look at other years when replacing anything.

    Drop your CS sprocket to 13 teeth.. much better for stock bike.

    Spring your forks and shock for your weight

    Forks need to be revalved.. (something like Racetech or one of the other options)

    Stock exhaust is the main hurdle to getting any power. You'll never get any power with the stock exhaust, don't waste your time.

    Exhaust options.. use old KLX 300 parts (if you can find them) or an aftermarket exhaust... the FMF Q4 has been a great choice, not too loud (but loud enough) if you can find one.

    Once you get an exhaust, then you can get lost in the world of jetting/MCM/pumper carbs, etc.

    Bonus: Quick turn throttle tube will wake up the CVK in the dirt.
    #10
    scareraven likes this.
  11. scareraven

    scareraven Ninja Freak Supporter

    Joined:
    May 9, 2009
    Oddometer:
    911
    Location:
    the locals hate me
    Perfect. Thank you. it gives me a direction and research for any down time I have. This is exactly what I was hoping for. Thanks all!
    #11
  12. scareraven

    scareraven Ninja Freak Supporter

    Joined:
    May 9, 2009
    Oddometer:
    911
    Location:
    the locals hate me
    So. I’m an shit mechanic apparently. I have traditionally done all my own maintenance and figured I could eventually figure out carbs. A loooong year later I am still struggling with getting a bandit 400 to run correctly. Many folks have said that they are prone to finicky carbs and I should just get help.
    but the KLX? Simples.



    Nah.
    Pulled carb and cleaned as per all the friendly suggestions, youtube videos and chat board readings. Put it back in and and the bike fires right up, but even when warm I can not get it to keep idle or rev at all. It just dies on throttle. I’m working with bone stock settings before I try anything fancy.
    Oh, and it pisses out fuel. I checked the float height and it is stock (17mm) but the clear hose test shows it right about the height of top of the bowl itself.

    Anyone know of any learning available out there that I may not have seen?
    Thanks again for pointing me in the right direction. Feeling like a fucking idiot, but all my friends have said that they have no advice for me.
    #12
  13. Beezer

    Beezer Long timer Supporter

    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2004
    Oddometer:
    9,351
    Location:
    Anchorage, formerly Spenard (hub of the universe)
    this is for the CV40, and mainly the Harley version which has an accelerator pump, but it also hits the KLR version which like is all other CVs. your carb is the same but smaller, and all the systems are the same except no accelerator

    http://vulcangadgets.com/files/keihin_carb.html

    pissing out fuel is a problem with the needle & seat. either or both may be bad but it can be as simple as crud stuck in there or float height incorrect

    and you need to drill out the plug that covers the idle mixture screw
    #13
    scareraven likes this.
  14. markk53

    markk53 jack of all trades...

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2007
    Oddometer:
    17,842
    Location:
    Delaware Ohio
    Kawasaki has a lot of cross over parts, foot pegs that fit a KLX650C/R or KLX300R will fit the 250. Levers are mostly the same too. Looking parts up on Partzilla then looking to see what all they fit is one way, although there are things that change numbers, like color. I have both a 650 and 250. My 250 has aftermarket cheap ebay pegs listed for a 650 and the brake rotors are from a KLX300, one previous owner had two sets of wheels and the OEM rotors went with those off the bike at the time. Not bad though, the 300 rotor can be had around $30, petal cut stock are usually more than double that. I went to the smaller rear rotor and it also came off a 300, the caliper carrier from a 2006 250.

    I don't know what else you are looking for, but racks and bash plates can be had. Remember, it is a dual sport, not an adventure bike, so the kitchen sink isn't available. You won't find plastic too often since, unlike motocrossers, the plastics aren't a hot enough seller for any aftermarket.


    You can get good jetting information at D Pippin's site - click here - the engines were pretty much the same from 2006 up, so the jetting tips are totally valid. I've been running the jetting with a stock pipe and the KDX220 snorkel. The jetting is what was worked out over a decade ago by the riders who bought the first 250s and did the trial and error to get it. Minor adjustments may be needed based on the elevation where you are riding. I did a Dial-A-Jet with leaner main jetting, look it up. I've used them on two other bikes since '86.

    You should have a lot of fun with the bike. If the chain and sprockets are good you may want to go to a 13T front sprocket for off roading. If you have to get new, take a look at going to a 45T rear sprocket, which will have similar gearing to stock with a 14T countershaft allowing a lower and higher gearing should you want. The larger sprockets also will have less wear due to less chain wrap around sprockets and spreading the drive force over more teeth. If to be a lot of off road consider bumping up the back more.
    #14
    scareraven likes this.
  15. Jedi2Rider

    Jedi2Rider Been here awhile

    Joined:
    May 19, 2014
    Oddometer:
    192
    Location:
    Hokkaido, Japan
    #15
    scareraven likes this.
  16. scareraven

    scareraven Ninja Freak Supporter

    Joined:
    May 9, 2009
    Oddometer:
    911
    Location:
    the locals hate me
    Thanks. I also found out that the floats could be in upside down
    Oh for fux sake.

    I also had another kind lad reach out to me on a klx forum and has promised to mould me into a carb superhero. I’m working for the next three nights, and then will be gone for a few days. I will post progress.
    Thanks to all for the info!
    #16
    Beezer likes this.
  17. markk53

    markk53 jack of all trades...

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2007
    Oddometer:
    17,842
    Location:
    Delaware Ohio
    Sounds like KLXter over at the Kawasaki Forum on the KLX250 sub-forum. He makes it sound like the 250 can be made like greased lightning and shoot right out from underneath you. A 250... yeah, no. :nah

    But you can get decent power/performance for a 250 that isn't a race bike. Fun none the less. :nod
    #17
    scareraven likes this.
  18. scareraven

    scareraven Ninja Freak Supporter

    Joined:
    May 9, 2009
    Oddometer:
    911
    Location:
    the locals hate me
    Yup. That’s him. He has good write ups that are easy to follow. I am realistic what this is. It’s for fun!
    My first diet experience after bending a road rider for 14 years.
    #18
  19. markk53

    markk53 jack of all trades...

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2007
    Oddometer:
    17,842
    Location:
    Delaware Ohio
    Key to performance on the KLX250 - keep it over 5000 rpm for the most part off road and on dirt/gravel. If you saw a dyno sheet you would see the good power runs from around 4000 up to around 9000 rpm. It likes 5000-7000 rpm to get some rapid motivation. It doesn't like lugging around and up hills. Let it sing a bit and it will reward you. On the road I'm seldom below 4500 and on dirt/gravel seldom under 5500.
    #19
  20. Beezer

    Beezer Long timer Supporter

    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2004
    Oddometer:
    9,351
    Location:
    Anchorage, formerly Spenard (hub of the universe)
    the MCM mod lowers the power band into a more usable range. you simply rearrange the gears on the cam & timing
    #20
    scareraven likes this.