KLX650 riders UNITE

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by COBAUM, Aug 17, 2006.

  1. Tinter

    Tinter Adventurer

    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2021
    Oddometer:
    45
    Location:
    Denmark
    I actually just bought a 15 tooth sprocket to get better RPM on the highway. About 4k at 80kph and 5k at 100kph and so on, in fifth with 14 tooth on the front.

    Hope it'll also lower my oil consumption, seems like I've used like 150ml in less than 500km. I think it might be dripping out somewhere, but it also seems to be linked to highway riding? I'm not sure, I don't have a lot of data so the pattern isn't clear. I have noticed drips from the chain cover, figured it was just chain lube, but maybe oil is dripping out somewhere and mixing with the chain sludge. My biggest worry is that it's actually the output shaft seal leaking. Maybe only when the oil is warm and thus thin.
  2. markk53

    markk53 jack of all trades... Super Supporter

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2007
    Oddometer:
    23,205
    Location:
    Delaware Ohio
    The KLX650 does blow off oil into the air box. The breather tube runs down from the cam cover to the air box. That is a problem.

    Here was my solution making a breather box (tube) and another where the rider did a long tube wrap around. Click here Both were to allow oil to drain back down into the engine. It did some, but the engine will still blow off some mist at higher rpm.
  3. Tinter

    Tinter Adventurer

    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2021
    Oddometer:
    45
    Location:
    Denmark
    Mmm right, I did try to reroute the hose a bit, but you can't do too much with the normal hose. I noticed also the hose seems to be wider at the head end and narrower at the air box end, what's the go to for another hose?
  4. Snypr18

    Snypr18 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jun 30, 2020
    Oddometer:
    77
    Location:
    Arizona
    4k @ 80kph and 5k @ 100kph is about what my bike does as well. Let me know how the new 15 tooth sprocket changes things up for you.
  5. markk53

    markk53 jack of all trades... Super Supporter

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2007
    Oddometer:
    23,205
    Location:
    Delaware Ohio
    As long as it runs down from the engine any condensed oil in the mist will become drippage coming from the air box drain. The whole idea is to get the mist to go UP. If I did that coiled hose I would stuff some of the really coarse stainless steel scrubber pad inside it up at the head. The idea being that the mist will condense some of the oil on the stainless mesh and drip back down into the engine. It eliminated the drip from my bike. You figure it drips some drops when stopped - it is doing the same as you ride, drip drip drip. The size of the hose is really irrelevant in this case.
    Snypr18 and Tinter like this.
  6. Tinter

    Tinter Adventurer

    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2021
    Oddometer:
    45
    Location:
    Denmark
    I just thought I'd point out that it's not actually dripping from the air box, because that hose has a little plug in it. The drip I was referring to came from the front sprocket cover, but I'm pretty sure it's just chain lube. Removing the plug let's quite a lot of oil drip out.

    On another note, I just got home from a few days away and an hour long drive on the highway, thinking I could finally have time to fix all the things I wanted to fix.
    Unfortunately, I'll let the pictures of my former license plate bracket speak for themselves.
    IMG_20210705_172045.jpg IMG_20210705_172055.jpg IMG_20210705_172106.jpg IMG_20210705_172136.jpg IMG_20210705_172123.jpg IMG_20210705_172148.jpg IMG_20210705_172633.jpg IMG_20210705_172622.jpg
  7. Tinter

    Tinter Adventurer

    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2021
    Oddometer:
    45
    Location:
    Denmark
    Also I had a few issues starting. Seemed to coincide with the angry red water lamp not being on in neutral like usual, happened like twice now. Any ideas why?
    It either solves itself by the lamp coming on eventually or once it gets going it starts easily from then on.
  8. Snypr18

    Snypr18 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jun 30, 2020
    Oddometer:
    77
    Location:
    Arizona
    Wow, that sucks. New tire time? Continental TKC 80's have been pretty nice for me.
  9. markk53

    markk53 jack of all trades... Super Supporter

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2007
    Oddometer:
    23,205
    Location:
    Delaware Ohio
    I didn't have the plug in my air box drain.

    I used a rubber flap for a license plate mount on my 650. The metal ones I made broke due to vibration, aluminum and stainless both fractured. So I used a piece of rubber flap maybe 6mm thick, a mud flap from a truck. Occasionally the tire may catch the plate, but no big deal. Might be a thought for you, depending on the size of the plate.
    Tinter likes this.
  10. Tinter

    Tinter Adventurer

    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2021
    Oddometer:
    45
    Location:
    Denmark
    Does look like a nice tyre, but there is no money for such a nice tire. Even my old Metzeler Enduro 3 Sahara is too expensive, so it looks like what I can afford is the Maxxis C-6006 as it's the cheapest I can find.
  11. Kawibunga

    Kawibunga Adventurer

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2019
    Oddometer:
    35
    Location:
    Calgary, AB.
    So I have a bit of a request for you KLXriders out there. I picked up a second 650 to fool around with. It's a 95C model (my other is a 94 R model) I picked it up for a song, but it needs a "bit" of head work (a bit is putting it nicely)

    As we know heads are not available. The exhaust cam journals have gotten a bit beaten. So my plan was to build up the journals via the TIG, then line bore both the Exhaust and Intake cam journals to spec, then put in the oil groove etc. Day job is Engineering Manager at a good sized machine shop. So this can be done. BUT here's the kicker. It did not come with the Cam Cap, as in the top piece that holds the cams in.

    Now I know the head and this piece are built as a set. But if someone would have a damaged cap that's no good to them, I'd happily EMT you some cash to take it off your hands! I'd them build it up and we'd line bore it to match the head. I've been watching ebay and the part is never sold on it's own, as it's pretty useless on it's own. I was going to reach out to some ebay sellers directly, but thought I'd try here first. THANKS!
  12. knudln

    knudln Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2014
    Oddometer:
    287
    Location:
    Saratoga Springs, NY
    At least three heads available on ebay right now.
  13. Kawibunga

    Kawibunga Adventurer

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2019
    Oddometer:
    35
    Location:
    Calgary, AB.
    Three, but I just need the cam cap, not the complete head. I think I can repair what I have for less then buying the complete heads of ebay. Plus then I'd have a new bore right at spec. I'll go the way of an ebay head if I have to, but would prefer just the part.
  14. Kawibunga

    Kawibunga Adventurer

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2019
    Oddometer:
    35
    Location:
    Calgary, AB.
    So on a completely different note. I always felt the clutch pull on the R model was a bit hefty. So I came across a Magura Hydrualic Clutch for a KDX220. As my boys ride 220s I could see that things were similar enough that it might work on the 650R. So after drilling another mounting hole in the cable holder on the engine to adjust the length slightly, and adding a simple bushing I made from an old cable adjuster, Voila, a fancy Hydraulic Clutch for the old beast. It didn't feel as easy as I hoped, but was an improvement

    [​IMG]
  15. Kawibunga

    Kawibunga Adventurer

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2019
    Oddometer:
    35
    Location:
    Calgary, AB.
    And then things went south as they say. I didn't appreciate the hydraulic line was just a simple plastic line, no ptfe of braided line. Just simple plastic. The radiant head off the header was enough that once the bike came up to temp and I applied the clutch, I was met with a sudden smoke show as the line blew due to the heat and sprayed the header pipe. It was run as low and far away as I could make it, thought it was OK, but it certainly was not. The picture below shows the blown line.............
    [​IMG]
  16. Kawibunga

    Kawibunga Adventurer

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2019
    Oddometer:
    35
    Location:
    Calgary, AB.
    So much for that experiment, just thought I'd share as I've not seen a hydraulic clutch on a 650R before. As a winter project, I may see if I could use a short section of stainless line, and then plastic, but that's a problem for another day.
  17. Snypr18

    Snypr18 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jun 30, 2020
    Oddometer:
    77
    Location:
    Arizona
    Well, at least it was cool while it lasted.
  18. Lesharoturbo

    Lesharoturbo Nerdly Adventurer

    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2009
    Oddometer:
    3,191
    Location:
    Austin TX
    If it were cool, it would have lasted longer....

    Heat is your enemy
    Snypr18 likes this.
  19. Kawibunga

    Kawibunga Adventurer

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2019
    Oddometer:
    35
    Location:
    Calgary, AB.
    If I do it again, I'll rebuild the the slave cylinder with Viton just to be sure, probably just plain low temp Nitrile seals in it is my guess, incorporate a heat shield over it via the cable mount. Then use some 1/8" stainless from the slave cylinder to a small bulkhead away from the head pipe heat. Then the plastic line from there. Not sure it would be worth the work, but then it would be "cool!" :)
  20. Kawibunga

    Kawibunga Adventurer

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2019
    Oddometer:
    35
    Location:
    Calgary, AB.
    Anyone with false neutral issues on an R (or C) model? I put on about 40 km off road last night in the foothills and it's starting to become an issue. Quite a few times it took a couple attempts to get into 2nd. Can be a pain on the hills or in the rocks. Is this typically a shifting fork issue? or Shifting Drum issue? Gear mesh issue? Thoughts? Not something I've had to fix before....... thanks!