KTM 1190 problems?

you need only one for the check-up

59.99x2.62, it's the only one that may/will be destroyed while taking out the pump/ reinstalling it

it must be you companion on the trips :)

buy also a good injector cleaner and clean them up :)

i'm sure in a few thousend of km, unless big bad luck, you will find all is pretty nasty either chocolate colour or balck, but still free to let petrol pass

Ok. Thanks.
Is there an easy way to clean out the tank? From the reports I read of junk in there during manufacturing, it is probably a good idea. Should have done that when I had it off to install the PC intake...

same trick same liquid, fuel injector mixture....

I was also wondering if, since all this seems to generate from alcohol, it would be maybea good idea to accelerate the proces cleaning the tanks first with pure alsohol, than water and soap, water, and petrol with injector cleaner....

but you must remove all parts and seal holes with cloth or it will not work

maybe also a blanket will do, :) be aware than a lot of the liquids will also go on the outer surface of the tank

:)

Cycle World April 2015

This is what fixes our problems, Social Media and Press Coverage

In our part of the world Premium unleaded comes with cleaners.

This is one of a few reasons why I'm holding out on purchasing a new bike until 2016.
Hope they get the air box and heat issue fixed plus add cruise control.

Not holding my breath though.

Too soon to know for sure, but the 2015 parts catalog has a redesigned carrier and clamping ring for the air filter. I'm guessing the problem has been finally solved. See parts 9 & 14. Very different.

Why wait? For 50 bucks you can fix it right away with a Unifilter.

Most people have no issue with heat either.

Its the principle of the matter and I'll be in a position next year to put a large chunk of cash towards a bike. Plus if i'm spending that kind of money I expect not to have to spend more on an integral part just to keep the motor from chewing itself up.

Heat may or may not be an issue for me and I know Wings makes the " Seat Cooler" that helps alleviate the issue. Again, its the principle plus Wings wants $339 for it.

These are all things should not be an issue on a new bike.
Like the rest of you I'd rather spend my money on exhaust, panniers or other farkles to make it my own.

Let me know when you find a bike with no issues. I'll be the first in line to buy it

My 2014 KTM 350 XCF-W 6 DAYS. Only thing i've done is add bark busters, bar risers and a larger fuel filter because the facto... Touche' Point to you.

I'm still sticking by my previous statement on it being principle because i'm stubborn and my wallet isn't ready.

Here ya go Malacay

So I finally have the parts to button it back up if only I can remember how to put this rats nest back together.

If you look at this picture you can really see the issue. From the orange marker back there is nothing holding the fender up. It's all cantilevered way out and then they stick 3-4 lbs of ECU in the very tip.



Hopefully the support straps I'm adding will make a difference.

How are you connecting those to the rear fender? Is it more than the lateral screws? (that plastic looks quite thin).

Not many options.

It is going to be sandwiched between the sub fender and the rear mud guard piece.

Would it be possible to have one more piece that connects the 2 you already have, and goes underneath the ECU and holds its weight?

Looks like they needed a structural engineer on that design. I agree with your assessment about having the weight so far back, particularly in light of the brittleness of the plastic. They could have probably gotten away with that design if they used a different plastic.
Is there a chance that the design had the electronics a little farther forward until the carbon canister was crammed in? Or maybe the electronics package ended up a good bit heavier that originally thought?


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Not really. The ECU is connected to the fender w/ 3 small threaded plastic screws. The ones that look like threaded wood screws. So it has no load bearing. The only way would be to cut slots in the fender and run a metal strap down and under the whole fender, but then you might further weaken the plastic.

Once I get done I plan on also adding a P clamp that connects the rear mud guard to the luggage rack cross brace.

you prolly have this buttoned up now ..but is there any chance you could have made a metal tray under the ECU with those straps extending up as you have and the rear end of the tray hooking into that rear bolt.
Haven't got a complete conceptualization on how that all goes together so may not be possible or helpful re shock loading.
You have to scratch your head as to the use of plastic at that point with those potential loads. Guess you maxed their calculations !