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KTM 300 opinions

Discussion in 'The Rockies – It's all downhill from here...' started by thump_co, Mar 7, 2012.

  1. dougrender

    dougrender Bike Polo is not a Crime

    Joined:
    Apr 28, 2004
    Oddometer:
    1,166
    Location:
    Boulder, Colorado
    155 seems really lean. I run 158 all over Colorado at advice from this thread. If you went by KTM's jetting guide, you would be at 160....

    38 is right.
  2. thump_co

    thump_co ..ouch

    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2011
    Oddometer:
    2,530
    Location:
    8532'
    I don't use the stock needles so take this with a grain of salt, but if you have to drop to #1 then you should move to a N2ZK. I agree with the 38pj, but 155 seems scary lean for that needle, especially at pos #1 (and with the temps dropping). I don't think you needed quite such a drastic change. I would've tried 38p, clip #2 and kept the 160.. maybe step to a #158 if you're still getting sputtery on the transition to main.

    Always work lean gradually. Lot better to deal with some sputter while you get dialed than a seized piston.

    EDIT - hadn't seen Doug's post yet. what he^ said.
  3. velocityjunky

    velocityjunky Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2008
    Oddometer:
    260
    Location:
    Denver
    so I didnt give all the info
    initial settings were
    35
    160
    N2ZJ 3

    I tried the needle at position 2 and it was better, but still not great

    raised the pilot to a 38 so I could set the air screw properly, and dropped the main to a 158.....rode it and the low end burble was back but not as bad as initially, still wasnt clean through the RPMS though

    dropped the needle again to POS 1. bike runs great off the bottom and into the mid.... then starts to sputter on top.....

    so that is when I dropped the main to the 155, but its too late here for me to test run it again.......

    I might have access to a N2ZK which I know is leaner up to 1/8 throttle which is what I want, so maybe itll be good in pos 2
  4. dougrender

    dougrender Bike Polo is not a Crime

    Joined:
    Apr 28, 2004
    Oddometer:
    1,166
    Location:
    Boulder, Colorado

    Ken was probably my source on the 158/38 so you're only getting one point of view!

    I would check the powervalve spring if you are unhappy with when it gets on the pipe. I was really unhappy with how my new to me this season 08 was running most of this year. It never seemed to get into the powerband, seemed to me it was revving out before I got to a hit. I tried a bunch of shit including swapping many components with a friend's 07. It was not until I swapped springs that I realized my powervalve was probably not opening all the way. Previous owner had the green (soft hit) spring. Yellow felt better, but still seemed "weak" on top and came in late, compared to the 95 I had been used to. Red changed the character entirely. All pipe, all the time. It's actually a little much and harder to ride. I've been trying a 14 tooth countershaft sprocket (vs. 13 stock) to soften it up. I have an XCW though and 1st and 2nd are geared lower than on your XC, so the 14 might not be right for you. On my XCW, not only does the 14 make it a little softer, it gives second gear longer legs--the 13 seemed to run out too soon on some of the trails I like, forcing me to third, where the powerband was not quite in the money. I'm not entirely sold on the 14 though, great for flowy stuff, but required more clutch and/or more use of 1st in say Taylor Park.
  5. dmac1

    dmac1 Long timer

    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2008
    Oddometer:
    1,729
    Location:
    Elizabeth, CO
    Have you considered using JD's needles? I use his needles and settings cuz I got tired of futzing with the stock stuff. Granted, I was new to the bike back then, but I couldn't seem to get it right.

    For local stuff (i.e. front range to about 8k) I run a 38 pj, 158 mj, JD red needle on 3. I used JD's settings for Taylor Park this late summer and they worked great. 38, 152, red on 2.

    I've tried the green spring, but I prefer the yellow. Unless I go somewhere where its really wide open, I don't anticipate changing the spring.

    I geared my 300 XC down a notch....still have a 13t up front but a 51 in the rear. Lost some top speed, but have a little more power down low so its closer to a XC-W in that regard.
  6. RideFreak

    RideFreak Torque Junky

    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2009
    Oddometer:
    14,741
    Location:
    Out in the NM Dez somewhere
    I'm partial to the JD setup also after trying a Suzuki needle and Slavens Mtn jetting on the new bike, my 08 seemed to respond to jetting a little better than the new one does. The JD seems to work pretty well and pull hard. Out of the box the new XCW is pretty lazy off idle, jetting really didn't help but the S3 head did. I attribute the laziness to the newer head design and the reed valve change in '14. The last Taylor park trip I had Slavens jetting installed and boy does it suck fuel, it ran good though. I went on reserve before another '15 300 with a 2.5gal stock tank did and I run the 3.1 gal. I just added a RAD valve and rode it once yesterday, it really woke it up allot more, initially it felt almost too much if that sounds possible, mainly because I wasn't used to the difference. It's got the yellow spring flush and with the new reed valve it felt like I just put in the red spring, pulls hard early and all the way up. I imagine when I get around to putting on a PC2 pipe and a Lectron it'll be all in motorwise, far more than I can use.
  7. SUPERRIDE

    SUPERRIDE Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 30, 2009
    Oddometer:
    239
    Location:
    DENVER
    I have a 2014 300 XCW also. I installed the JD jetting kit to his recomended setting for 6000 ft and up and it runs FANTASTIC with excellent fuel mileage. I ride Moab, Green River, The Swell, Taylor, Sargents and Rio Grand Forest. With my stock tank I regulary return to the truck with close to one gallon after riding our normal 70 or so miles. Bike has totally stock everything, gearing, pipe, yellow spring about half way and head. It has perfect power at every RPM range. I have a black paint mark on my tank at one gallon, so I know when I have one gallon left. I rode the whole MOOSE RUN DUAL SPORT this August with my 4.2 gallon tank. I rode 160 miles that day on about 3 gallons. JD JETTING is the BOMB!!!!!!!!!!
  8. dmac1

    dmac1 Long timer

    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2008
    Oddometer:
    1,729
    Location:
    Elizabeth, CO
    We're getting a little spooge from the junction between the pipe and the silencer. It was worse with the EE sparky (we now have FMF pipes with krizman style) but still get some. So 2 questions:

    Does anyone use any red RTV sealant on the joint to stop it? and

    How often do you repack your mufflers and do you do anything to get the spooge out of it before doing so?

    Thanks.
  9. RideFreak

    RideFreak Torque Junky

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    14,741
    Location:
    Out in the NM Dez somewhere
    Put a couple tiewraps around the rubber junction.
  10. bobfab

    bobfab Long timer Supporter

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    May 11, 2009
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    2,273
    Location:
    Limerick, PA
    x2, thats what i do also!
  11. enduro-ince

    enduro-ince dirtslave

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    Jul 14, 2004
    Oddometer:
    6,242
    Location:
    Placerville Co.
    The tie wraps aren't really working for me 100%, is there a reason to not use RTV? I see a good glob of it on my trials bike from the PO for the same application, seems to be working just fine.
  12. VxZeroKnots

    VxZeroKnots Long timer

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    Jun 5, 2008
    Oddometer:
    4,471
    I used hose clamps on the ol GG300.
  13. Fred Garvin

    Fred Garvin Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2011
    Oddometer:
    407
    Location:
    western slope
    I just replaced the rubber interface and did not put red sealant since it is new and has a good fit. Make sure that the chamber and exhaust pipe are properly aligned in the junction. My old one got tore up some because I used hose clamps that were little wide for the groove in the junction, so I ground down the new clamps on a grinder so they fit in the junction grooves and it seems to work a lot better.
  14. Fred Garvin

    Fred Garvin Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2011
    Oddometer:
    407
    Location:
    western slope
    While I am at it here, was wondering who is using a steering damper on their 300? Are they working for you as you thought they would? What made you choose the one you ended up with? Never had one so I am not sure what to look for or what to expect.
  15. dirtrider

    dirtrider Dusty Adventurer

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    Nov 12, 2003
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    3,366
    Location:
    Kalispell, Montana
    I have a 14 300 XCW and it's my year around ride. It's now my 5th 300 over the years. What an amazing bike!
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    jimmex and Colorad0 like this.
  16. dirtrider

    dirtrider Dusty Adventurer

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    I'm running the GPR sub bar mount. It's a huge difference at high speeds and in the rocks. I like it because it raises the bars the perfect amount and it makes a very noticeable improvement to the bike.......and looks great in orange!
  17. thump_co

    thump_co ..ouch

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    2,530
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    8532'
    +1 for JD Jetting. I probably have 20 different needles I've experimented with from ktmtalk threads and ended up coming back to JD's stuff. It's what I use on both ours now. Set and forget.

    I was a skeptic about them for a long time but picked up an Ohlins from a buddy last year and now I'm sold. Personally, I don't feel they enable me to ride anything technically different, but they do allow me to relax more and keep my arms fresh longer in the continuous rough stuff. Plus, you ever get into the deep Moab sand washes you can just crank the dial up to max and smile your way to 5th gear without worrying about ruts suddenly trying to yank your arms off.

    I like the Ohlins because it tucks under but still doesn't change bar height at all, but the Scotts probably delivers about the same and can be picked up used all over the place.
  18. velocityjunky

    velocityjunky Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2008
    Oddometer:
    260
    Location:
    Denver
    Update on my jetting findings.

    my off idle burble was solved with a #8 slide (trick I learned with my old YZ250)
    and going from the J to the K needle (seems to want a larger pilot)

    40p
    158m
    N2ZK - 1

    bike runs great.
  19. thump_co

    thump_co ..ouch

    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2011
    Oddometer:
    2,530
    Location:
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    Glad to hear you got 'er dialed. Mine likes the #40pj too, even in the exact same conditions that Mrs_Thump's likes the #38.