Ktm 500 Husky 501 Oz Adventure bikes

Discussion in 'Australia' started by bigbrad, Jan 2, 2017.

  1. Power Band Junkie

    Power Band Junkie Son of a Novice

    Joined:
    Oct 6, 2008
    Oddometer:
    254
    Location:
    North Brisbane, Australia
    That's them, cheap and cheerful. I buy em 20 at a time for when I have to continuously replace indicators. :fpalm
    nzrian likes this.
  2. nzrian

    nzrian renegade master Supporter

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    thanks, just ordered a heap of those.
  3. Blakduk

    Blakduk Don’t be too practical.

    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2007
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    Cooroy
    Me too. X 20.
    nzrian likes this.
  4. nzrian

    nzrian renegade master Supporter

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    Picked up the new 2019 today.
    340km trip back home, about 200km of that was nice gravel.

    IMG_20190904_091033.jpg

    Shit, it pulls really hard on the top end, I think I need another tooth on the front to cruise nicely at 100km/hr.




    I managed to run it out of fuel as well, tipped it on its side to get the last of the fuel from right side to left, and just made it to a servo.


    IMG_20190904_093238.jpg


    The seat is shit, but overall I am very impressed with this bike.
    Got a seat concepts on the way.
    First oil change tonight, and skid plate, barkbuster install.
    LC8TY, johnno950, Rus and 8 others like this.
  5. Blakduk

    Blakduk Don’t be too practical.

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    What do you use to connect wires together?
  6. AUSSIEADV

    AUSSIEADV 2wo left foots

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    11,878
    Location:
    Ned and Wild’s fight site
    You can get them from RS components also which is where i get mine from.

    https://au.rs-online.com/web/c/connectors/
  7. AUSSIEADV

    AUSSIEADV 2wo left foots

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    The seats are shit though. They work great for their intended purpose!
    nzrian likes this.
  8. Power Band Junkie

    Power Band Junkie Son of a Novice

    Joined:
    Oct 6, 2008
    Oddometer:
    254
    Location:
    North Brisbane, Australia
    Not sure quite what you mean mate? I buy universal flush mount indicators for the rear and use a Jaycar crimping tool to attach the connector.
  9. tileman

    tileman Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2007
    Oddometer:
    2,002
    Location:
    Melbourne, OZ
    http://www.cycleterminal.com/jst-jwpf.html
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  10. nzrian

    nzrian renegade master Supporter

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    Did the first oil change tonight, bit of crap on the large screen. Nothing to worry about though.

    IMG_20190904_171810.jpg



    IMG_20190904_171757.jpg


    The magnetic drain plug had bugger all on it, just a bit of smoo.
    This change done at 5hrs on the engine.

    Doing the oil change on these is a lot more involved than the Dr, seems like a lot of protection/ filters in this engine. A good thing I guess.

    What is the best proceedure to do this on the road, and what kinda parts/ tools are you carrying to do it?
  11. Blakduk

    Blakduk Don’t be too practical.

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    Great photos, if there is nothing on the magnet, I am curious about all the gunk. I'm guessing either a breakdown of the oil (unlikely) or bits of the manufacturing process left in the engine - grease, gasket...? Anyone smart know?
    I did an oil change in the Flinders ranges. I had a spare filter (they are small), a 1.25 litre softdrink bottle with 1.30 litres of oil (100 ml extra for spilling, o-rings, threads, prefilling the filter hole), and just used my bumbag tools. Without checking the manual, I think I only needed three sockets??? Only took me 10 minutes.
    Dukehunt and nzrian like this.
  12. AUSSIEADV

    AUSSIEADV 2wo left foots

    Joined:
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    Location:
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    Looks good. Nothing to worry about there.

    I dont stress about going over the oil change by a few hours and the likes of a good full synthetic oil gives you even more. A low stressed environment even more so.
    nzrian likes this.
  13. nzrian

    nzrian renegade master Supporter

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    Thanks for the reply, there was a bit of sealant in the first pic, the second pic was gasket material I reckon.

    I used a 13mm spanner for the drain and screens.

    8mm socket on the filter cap.
    If I have to change the oil on the road, could you skip the filter change, and do the oil only?

    Also what are you guys doing with the number plate (License) on the rear fender?
    Mine is floppy as fuck, not sure how long it will last.
  14. smacka

    smacka Tripper head

    Joined:
    Oct 13, 2005
    Oddometer:
    59
    Location:
    Brisbane Bayside
    A bit of nylon breadboard trimmed to size, some aluminium rivets, SS washers and you're golden! 2019-01-13 12.19.31.jpg
    nzrian likes this.
  15. nzrian

    nzrian renegade master Supporter

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    Easy as bro.
    Thanks for the pic and info.
    That is what I will do.
    smacka likes this.
  16. Blakduk

    Blakduk Don’t be too practical.

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    I had a quick look in Autobarn. They are called cable joiners. simpler than all my twisting, soldering and heatshrinking.
    The smallest I could get are 3mm, so I bought a pack, but now that I know what they are called I'm going online to find something for lighter wiring (the chinese indicators must be < 1mm!!) and that is waterproof. Or maybe use silastic or sealant.
    [​IMG]

    As for the rear numberplate, see below photo. Although this is new, I've done the same with a multiple crashed bike for 7 years and it is fine. Just two screws. Use wingnuts if you want to regularly take them off to clean behind them...

    I personally don't use the breadboard, because it is heavier and places more vibration on the rear plastic frame, also when I crash I want the numberplate to bend, not tear off that plastic flap. (it would have torn off like the radiator shroud in my last (first on this bike) stack).

    IMG_0880.jpg
    nzrian likes this.
  17. Blakduk

    Blakduk Don’t be too practical.

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  18. nzrian

    nzrian renegade master Supporter

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    Had a wee play with the muffler tonight.
    This is the cone baffle in the front section of the muffler.

    IMG_20190905_180431.jpg

    IMG_20190905_180257.jpg

    IMG_20190905_180303.jpg
    I ground the weld and drilled some holes to help release the baffle.


    IMG_20190905_181658.jpg
    After putting it all back together, I took the bike for a spirited run.
    It definitely goes and sounds better, well worth doing I would say.

    Attached Files:

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  19. nzrian

    nzrian renegade master Supporter

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    Man that is a sharp looking bike.

    I pretty much did the same thing, but made an Alloy bracket for the indicators.

    IMG_20190905_180920.jpg

    IMG_20190905_180940.jpg


    IMG_20190905_180932.jpg
  20. Blakduk

    Blakduk Don’t be too practical.

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    2EB1DAB8-A095-4428-AE77-2593A51DC9E9.jpeg That alloy bracket is the goods. I've got a new $70 rear subframe U and no.plate holder that I"m bolting onto my bike tomorrow, because in my last stack the blinker tore a piece out of where it was mounted into. If you look at my photo of the old one (plus match to my above photo too) you can work out where the hole was drilled through for the indicator stalk and how the hole is on one side, but torn out on the other.
    nzrian likes this.