Ktm 500 Husky 501 Oz Adventure bikes

Discussion in 'Australia' started by bigbrad, Jan 2, 2017.

  1. Hoots

    Hoots Long timer

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    Had been thinking you'd be about right by now post surgery for a lap around the Brindies ...

    Bummer - plastics and lights will be trivial to replace, and hopefully you're healing Ok
  2. GodSilla

    GodSilla I did that.

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    Thanks for the well-wishes. My toe seems to be healing quickly, thankfully. Another lesson learned - Tech 3's don't protect your feet like Tech 10's eh.
    I can repair some of the plastics but I'll need a bit of aluminium and some bolts to fab indicator mounts, I'll chuck the standard plastic extension bit for the crap it is. Gimme a few days to fix it eh, and score new blinkers.
    The brake/tail light looks to be OK despite coming off, threads still look functional for mounting, but the little plug pulled out of the terminal and it is right inside the fitting, I dunno how I'm gonna get that little fucker back on but I will persist.
    mrsdnf likes this.
  3. anadel

    anadel Been here awhile

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    What gearing are you running?
  4. GodSilla

    GodSilla I did that.

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    14:48 eh. I caught myself out with the power increase from the Fuel Torque remapping, I had gotten used to the lean-runing power delivery, but now comes on a lot stronger and picks up revs more quickly (low flywheel effect I assume). I mainly got the re-tune for ride-ability purposes, to better hold a steady speed at throttle, or for small-low throttle opening for just tooling around, and that certainly has been delivered. I haven't used the top-end power much at all 'cos it goes quite well anyway, but by crikey it sure has livened up. On the flat gravel road I felt the front wheel going light on the throttle in fifth gear, and it will spin in sixth just using the throttle. I could go up a tooth on the front and still have more than enough power, but plodding might get harder. I will try it out (plodding) soon and come to a decision, it may be that the improved running will carry a higher gearing and still be OK.
  5. tileman

    tileman Long timer

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    I've got plenty of plugs. Send it down here and I'll sort it if that can work.
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  6. Rus

    Rus Been here awhile

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    I don’t know if it’d be of any interest, but on my new TE250i I had the dealer fit these neat, tiny LED indicators instead of the stock ones. I don’t want to jinx myself, but doubt I’ll break these...
    537AAD26-2EE1-4B03-8E91-B31FA88114F3.jpeg D3E64DFA-AB85-47B4-83E8-A753464B396E.jpeg FC447DCF-F19F-4846-AC75-E31213170AD8.jpeg 52656CD3-35FE-4C1E-B6C8-BB69FD43B759.jpeg
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  7. moto74

    moto74 displaced

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    Have you got a link for those indicators?
  8. Rus

    Rus Been here awhile

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    The dealer (R&D Husky Emu Plains, Sydney) fitted them for me.

    The part number is MCSZIU306LED, Super mini indicator pair. They said cost was around $29 a pair and you need two pairs, plus a resistor part number IRLED1 which plugs into the blinker & loom. They said to be careful of the polarity as it may need to be swapped otherwise blinker will blink too fast.

    They said there are others on the market but they use these super small ones as they don't require brackets.

    Online sites include:
    http://mcsonline.com.au/indicators-accessories/universal-indicators.html
    https://www.thebikeandbrew.com.au/product_details.php?product_category_id=1077&product_id=11244 ($36.20 a pair)
    https://mx247.com.au/products/mcs-superminiledindicatorspair ($49.95 a pair)
    https://www.triumphperformanceparts.com.au/super-mini-led-indicators (looks expensive at $79.95 a pair)

    [​IMG]

    This pic gives an indication of the size compared with 501s & 701s:
    upload_2020-11-6_8-53-4.jpg

    Attached Files:

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  9. GodSilla

    GodSilla I did that.

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    Thanks for that offer Matt. The plug has just unplugged itself when it ripped out, but to get it back in, the receiver is at a right-angle to the opening and a short distance inside and slightly offset, and the opening is about as wide as a ballpoint pen. I can see it and where it has to go, but I can't get wire-nose pliers in there so I suspect it will be a time-and-patience job to get it to line up and using a small flat-blade screwdriver to get it back on, if I can get the little bugger to line up.

    I'd rather spend an hour or two swearing than throw away a functioning part to spend another $60 bucks for a replacement. It's an odd way to setup a connection to be honest, and it doesn't look like it was designed to be ever unplugged either, so that's the issue.
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    @moto74, For blinkers, look here : https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/6PCS-Mo...162707&hash=item4db0f5f974:g:tMIAAOSwnqxfMLMr

    They come with 2 spares for breakages, neat huh? Also, don't bother putting resistors in your wiring, just get an LED "tunable" blinker unit. $10.52 bucks each : https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2Pin-12V-Motorcycle-Blinker-Adjustable-LED-Flasher-Relay-Turn-Signal-IndifwARS/233764852568?_trkparms=aid=555021&algo=PL.SIMRVI&ao=1&asc=20190711100440&meid=ebd329c214c3472da794632991bd0356&pid=100752&rk=5&rkt=9&mehot=lo&sd=193155308264&itm=233764852568&pmt=1&noa=0&pg=2047675&algv=SimplRVIAMLv5WebWithPLRVIOnTopCombiner&_trksid=p2047675.c100752.m1982

    Hope this helps.

    -----------------------

    UPDATE: I just paid $30.02c for 6 LED blinkers and an adjustable relay, enough to fit the bike and have 2 spare blinkers. As opposed to over $60 for one single KTM blinker, which is easy to break.
    Rus, seancampbell and moto74 like this.
  10. moto74

    moto74 displaced

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    Thanks Rus for the comprehensive response, much appreciated!
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  11. moto74

    moto74 displaced

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  12. anadel

    anadel Been here awhile

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    Thanks for that info. I had my ecu rejigged by Rex when I bought my '18 500 based on what you and others were saying. Mine came with 14/50 which I only tried on my local streets, changed to 15/50 and then had my first dirt ride. That gearing was too low for my type of riding so I went 47 and still wanted taller gearing for the easy riding I do now after 50 years in the saddle. I have given up on single track and any tough twin track, been there done that 1000 times in my youth.

    Took a big leap and installed 42 and have been running with that lately, as I wanted the bike to be a good highway cruiser for longer trips. I got Rex to tune it for bottom/mid range and this motor is wonderful, easily copes with 15/42 but I admit that going to 45 would give more zip. I like to short shift my bikes and my range of bikes over the decades included the wonderful IT465/Maico 490/XR600 and more recently a DR790. My riding friend has just bought a '14 500 and he is running 15/45 so it will be interesting to try his bike.
  13. GodSilla

    GodSilla I did that.

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    Before I go re-inventing the wheel, badly, I currently have the core of the muffler sitting on the (what passes for a) bench. It was a bastard to remove the end-caps eh.

    Anyway, I want to remove the perforated steel reverse double- cone in the perforated core, how did you guys do it? It seems to be welded with 2 runs that cover over half the circumference, so did you just grind the welds off and leave it at that, or did you cut the core off just before the welds? I can't think of any other way at the moment, but I'm open to suggestions (apart from where to insert it in self! :lol2).

    Thanks in advance.

    UPDATE: I have found some photos where the weld is ground off and the remaining tube left in place, so I will try that.
  14. GodSilla

    GodSilla I did that.

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    I look forward to your feedback on the gearing. I'm still doing bush tracks 'cos that's what is largely around this way, I have a 640 for highway work.
  15. outbackflyer

    outbackflyer Of.

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    Testing a spare radegarage screen on the 501, feels much better at seated Highway speeds and also fast standing, will further develop the mounting brackets , position is good. 928FD450-AE02-4B63-B484-D6029102568D.jpeg 72DAA293-F0F8-4CA3-838B-47D9E0EFE947.jpeg
  16. outbackflyer

    outbackflyer Of.

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    85BAFEB3-176F-4702-9265-B9C9D674B13B.jpeg
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  17. anadel

    anadel Been here awhile

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    looks good. is that the standard headlight set up and you have made up some brackets to mount the screen? Its very important to have air coming up behind the screen and that cutout for another light allows that to happen.
  18. outbackflyer

    outbackflyer Of.

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    . The headlight is an led unit , Squadron by Baja designs, the standard headlights on these bikes are useless for night riding. I didn’t make any new brackets, just drilled 2x 10 mm holes in the screen where it aligned with the standard indicator brackets then fitted rubber grommet to the screen and bolted through to the indicator brackets. The small square cutout above the light is from original radegarage lights and serves no purpose.
  19. GodSilla

    GodSilla I did that.

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    It turns out the rear light internal plug is quite easy to re-attach with a very small blade screwdriver to push it on.
    I just bent it on the end of the wires to a right-angle, placed it inside at the right spot, and pushed with the screwdriver and on it went.I expected it to be harder and more fiddly.

    It's a pity my big toe isn't so easy to fix. I took the dressings off today to inspect the wounds (which look to be healing, but some swelling and purple still evident) and it now sits at a funny angle, so I'm guessing I broke it.:shogThat would explain why it hurt a fair bit more than the surgery.:lol3
  20. david61

    david61 Queue, a word with 4 silent letters....

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    "Now sits at a funny angle"

    That's big clue there's something amiss:photog