Ktm 500 Husky 501 Oz Adventure bikes

Discussion in 'Australia' started by bigbrad, Jan 2, 2017.

  1. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

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    No problem as long as there's not a bunch of O2 in there.
  2. Slow & steady

    Slow & steady n00b

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    Bike is now complete, I’m very happy with the decal kit. Just returned from a 750km ride over the weekend with AMTRA, really happy with the overall setup, bike cruises well on the highway (reduced the rear sprocket 2 teeth) & is great on fire trails & back roads. Fitted Mosko Reckless 40 which worked well, easy to fit up, not to obtrusive when you ride.

    99BC85C9-1393-49B5-9BDF-782872DA473D.jpeg 4E662869-96B9-4E97-91B2-B8742C5F7E91.jpeg DDF41FA3-B084-466E-A6EA-39C2686DDBCF.jpeg

    Attached Files:

  3. Pcq

    Pcq Been here awhile

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    Nice bike setup !
    Thanks for this thread that is super interesting... including the discussion on fuel issues, filters, pump... always a major concern.

    I saw this and it seemed like a good solution acting as a back up to the stock filter and capturing smaller particles. Seems easy to fit, keep an eye on and clean regularly...

    Anybody have any experience fitting one ?

    https://www.ktm-parts.com/FF11-XXX.html
  4. AUSSIEADV

    AUSSIEADV 2wo left foots

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    They act as one side of your quick disconnect. They run the cone filter as a ‘rock catcher’. You then piff the cone filter at the injector altogether. Brilliant.
    Pcq likes this.
  5. anadel

    anadel Been here awhile

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    Hi there, brainstrust people. I have worked out what the problem was with my 500 running roughly. It was me ie it was all my fault. This will amuse you for sure. After my ride I cleaned the bike, put some new pads on the rear and of course cleaned the air filter. Being a smartie, while the air filter was off drying I stuffed a rag into the inlet tract to keep it clean. Guess what. It was stuffed in all the way and I forgot to take it out when i replaced the filter. Voila. It started fine and i managed to get 150m before the rag was jamming the butterfly.

    When I was investigating, it was obvious that there was something wrong with the throttle action and I took off the plastic cover hiding the pulley wheel on the throttle body. I could see that the pulley would not return to the throttle stop and then bingo, I remembered the rag. Of course by then I had replaced the fuel pump ,put on a new fuel filter and flushed the injector. In doing all that I have learnt a lot about the fuel system and am now confident of being able to replace the pump on a ride if I had to.

    There is now only one tiny little problem. In the 3 or so times I have had the fuel lines out of the tank I have managed to strip 2 of the 4 holes in the rear of the Acerbis tank where the sealing plate goes. Every time I have tightened them I have always used a torque wrench at 2Nm and still stripped them. Bugger. However it is not the end of the world. The first time I simply cut down a plastic wall plug, inserted it into the hole and the self tapper held. This time i might cut some small cable ties to the correct length and glue them in the hole with the appropriate glue. I have read of this plastic stripping on a number of sites and will sort it out.

    On my Safari tank equipped DR, they have brass threaded inserts instead of bare holes and they seem to be fine provided you don't use Loctite. KTM reliability 1, anadel 0.
    seancampbell, nzrian and Quirky like this.
  6. anadel

    anadel Been here awhile

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    PCQ, re that fuel filter, I have installed a 10 micron KTMandHusky filter in the tank to replace the 40 micron plastic filter. I also run a fuel sock filter under the petrol cap. Have a look at my previous photos showing the muck that it collected.
    Pcq likes this.
  7. Simosez

    Simosez go ride your bike.

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    Good to see you got it sorted. I use soft hands only on those tank screws. You can't trust a torque wrench that low in the scale. Not even a good one.
    ToriMish, hoorang, Pcq and 1 other person like this.
  8. anadel

    anadel Been here awhile

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    Good point. I use a bicycle specific torque wrench which goes down to 2Nm but in future it will be by feel. A few years ago I did an experiment on my F800GS re the rear axle bolt torque. I think the recommended torque was 80 Nm and I was interested to see how my lifetime hand tightening compared to using a torque wrench. End result was that I was under the recommended torque yet in my nearly 50years of wheel tightening, have never lost a rear wheel.
  9. hoorang

    hoorang .

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    Something to watch is the slightly longer self tapping screws that come with an acerbis tank fitting kit. It's not much extra but every extra bit of grip helps.
    Grog likes this.
  10. anadel

    anadel Been here awhile

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    Thanks for that tip, I'll double check to see if I did use the Acerbis screws.
  11. Blakduk

    Blakduk Don’t be too practical.

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    A random tip I've had some luck with to clean the staining that the white plastics get on the sides from legs/boots, I use petrol on a cloth to take the stain/dirt off, then immediately use spray can contact cleaner on paper towell to remove the oily-ness or whatever it is that the petrol leaves behind.
    Dukehunt, Kiwirich and seancampbell like this.
  12. anadel

    anadel Been here awhile

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    I've found that the NOvus plastic cleaners work well to remove stains. I use the NO 2 or No 3 polish/scratch remover and it takes off black stains on my tank shrouds. IT is also excellent for removing minor scratches on bike windscreens.
    Blakduk and Kiwirich like this.
  13. craig525

    craig525 Ktm nut

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    Any body making a rack for 19 /501?
  14. Blakduk

    Blakduk Don’t be too practical.

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    That is a great question, and I have spent since mid December looking for something. The answer I think is NO. There was a clever bloke in the States called @Dan950ser (I think???) who was going to experiment with stuff. I"m not sure what happened.
    I reckon @DRjoe could do it, but the guy is busy trying to make some more mainstream things for real $$.
    I ended up going with the big bucks Kriega OS system instead.
  15. craig525

    craig525 Ktm nut

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    Lookes like I'll have to make one
  16. anadel

    anadel Been here awhile

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    I have made a rack/pannier frame for my 18 500EXC. Happy to show some photos as long as there are no nasty comments about my welding. I had big problems with my old welder and bought an inverter welder to finish it-so much easier to weld in the end.
    IMG_0819.JPG I based it on a couple of racks available in the US. I wanted to be able to carry an overnight bag on the rear as well as fit my AndyStrapz panniers for full camping loads.

    IMG_0821.JPG

    IMG_0827.JPG It ended up being a very convoluted shape as I had to run the tubes close to the supports on the LHS

    IMG_0823.JPG I had to make a steel plate that fitted into the end of the subframe then cut the plastic so that it poked through.

    IMG_0820.JPG On the RHS I supported the frame via a 5mm steel strap which I connected to a modified piece of angle which bolts to the muffler support bolts.

    I made the main frame from 15.8mm tube and the pannier frames from 12mm tube. The reason I went for only 15mm tube was that at the time I could only find a tube bender that would cope with that diameter tube. I hand bent everything with no heated bends, which are a real hassle. I have been on 2 rides, all up 1100km. The 2nd ride was with a full camping load and it handled it pretty well.

    Now for the things that need improving. With a full load, there is a bit of flex in the whole system, mainly because I don't have a rigid joining strut around the back of the pannier frames. I started to make a strut from the 15.8mm tube but it is not rigid enough. I have now bought a tube bending kit on ebay that will bend 19/22mm tube and will make a rear strut. The next issue is that the main support tubes really should be 19mm tube. It seems that everyone uses 19mm tube as a minimum to make commercial racks ie on my DR650, the Barrett pannier frames are 19mm.

    I will probably revise my lower main tube and retrofit 19mm tubes on both sides. The good thing is that the 15.8mm tube fits exactly inside the 19mm tube so I can make a strong connection. The other issue is where the main tubes connect to the frame above the pegs. There is a bit too much flex in the flat plate and I really need it to be either wider or use 5mm plate. There are lots of things to think about if you decide to make a rack and of course with hindsight I would make lots of little changes and improvements.

    I took on the project as there is hardly anything available on the market and it was a difficult challenge. Happy to provide more advice to anyone who is seriously interested in making their own rack.
    Kiwirich likes this.
  17. craig525

    craig525 Ktm nut

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    Ha yes I've fabricated a few for exc but the huski dosnt have a alloy sub frame but I think I can work around it plus I don't intend to carry shit loades of stuff .
  18. a2zworks

    a2zworks Trust me, I'm Pablo

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    :lol3 that is really bad welding:lol3

    Now with the new inverter use low hydrogen electrodes WIA Austarc 16TC - 2.5mm, you'll never look back.
    If you have never used low hydrogen send me a PM for tricks tips
    Austarc_16TC_370_277.jpg
  19. hoorang

    hoorang .

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    Not a husqktm but a husaktm I built this for a solution mainly for adding anchor points to the plastic rear for a longer ride.
    IMAG3853.jpg
    Ties into the subframe mounts and uses the strength of the rack to spread the loading over the plastic subframe. Two alloy spacers sit it up off the rear guard and anchor it down.
    splinters, Fabnut, craig525 and 4 others like this.
  20. anadel

    anadel Been here awhile

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    Impressive. I went for the KTM because the Husky has a non metal subframe. Just goes to show what determination can do. Well done
    hoorang likes this.