KTM 690 E & TuneECU

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Maurizio, May 9, 2011.

  1. wbbnm

    wbbnm Long timer

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    I found and fixed the problem. The rubber vacuum seal nipple I put on the intake area fitting when I desmogged the bike several years ago was missing.
    I put a new one on, did the 15 min reset. And the bike runs great.

    I put a few more details in the Wunderfest thread.
  2. The Letter J

    The Letter J Long timer

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    If you're talking about the nipple on the left side of the intake spigot, you can unscrew that nipple and thread a bolt in its place and never have that problem again.

    Edit: I want to say that it was an M5/.8 x 8mm long bolt? Use some thread sealant to avoid vacuum leaks.
  3. wbbnm

    wbbnm Long timer

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    That's the one. I could not get a 6 mm bolt to thread in. I thought about trying a 5 mm, but not until after I had put the nipple back in.

    At one point I checked the nipple and found it threaded perfectly into a 6 mm nut. That made me doubtful a 5 would work.
    A 5 mm bolt was way too small for the 6 mm bolt.

    I am going to go with a hose clamp for now and take a look at a better solution when I get into my winter maintenance projects.
  4. sprouty115

    sprouty115 Long timer Supporter

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    If you decide to thread something in there, be wary of where the chips (metal fragments) go. You certainly don't want anything in your engine.

    Also, if you stay with a cap make sure you use a silicone cap. Most commonly you see them available in Vinyl and the difference is significant in terms of cracking and replacement.
    wbbnm likes this.
  5. wbbnm

    wbbnm Long timer

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    I had a black rubber one on there, Vinyl?. I kind of think that the way things degraded first gradually and then suddenly that the rubber one did crack and allowed a small leak and then eventually just fell off creating a big leak.
  6. sprouty115

    sprouty115 Long timer Supporter

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    Yup, very likely Vinyl. You basically have to search for Silicone to make sure that's what you get. I have mine sealed with a silicone cap and a zip-tie and it's still looks fine 6-years later.
    dad2bike likes this.
  7. magwych

    magwych Been here awhile

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    I have a CCM GP 450, which uses the same ECU as the non CANbus versions on the 690.
    I have questions for those that have delved into the darker corners of the ECU. .
    I have a good working map that I am ostly happy with, apart from behaviour under very light throttle. I sorted the L table by setting the F-L switch to 10-10-10-10-10-10 then fine tuning with a wide-band sensor.
    Now, I am working on bringing the F and L tables into synch, from the factory they have very different fuel quantities for the same conditions. I set the F-L switch to 0 across the board, but have found that the ECU is still using the L table. No matter what changes I make to the F in the 0-4% tps/sub 4500 rpm range, the AFR only changes when I modify the L table...
    Anyone else seen this, or know if there is a threshold point below which the ECU still uses the L table?
    I tried asking on the new TuneECU forum, but that place is crammed with Triumph users wanting to know what map they should use I recall Ama. did a lot of work and research on the ECU behaviour, I believe he no longer has his 690 and has moved on...
  8. Steinarsv

    Steinarsv Who cares about the destination?

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    So, i just got my 10' 690 Enduro, and want to do somethinh with it. Anyone got good tips regarding maps?

    Kinda like the silence of the stock muffler, but will probably change it, and go full retard.
    Used for enduro riding, so, smooth low rev power, less jerkienes is wanted.

    Bone stock for now.

    Know my way around tuneecu and have a wideband lambda available.
  9. dansin

    dansin Been here awhile

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    Hey chaps. My 2010 690R is running a RR foam intake, wings exhaust, Ama throttle relative EP map, Evo 1 fuel map with one set to +3% fuel and one set to +6% fuel. It runs fantastically on both but much smoother on the +6% fuel.

    No moans or problems at all. . Still love it and am struggling to find a reason to change it to a 500/501!
    El Ponkin likes this.
  10. wbbnm

    wbbnm Long timer

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    Can anyone tell me what the numbers in the TuneEcu FI F maps mean precisely. I gather that they are somehow related to the amount of fuel injected.

    I am under the impression that the amount of fuel injection is proportional to the injection pulse length. I have looked at this pulse with an oscope on my bike. I get numbers like 3 ms for the pulse width at idle. The numbers in one of the FI F3 tables are in the range of 1700 at idle speed and nearly closed throttle.

    I started reading this thread from the beginning and have done some searches but did not find what I wanted before my patience ran out.

    If there are any good descriptive posts on this topic I would love to read them.

    Thanks.

    BTW I am also interested in information on when in the fire cycle fuel gets injected. On my bike it seems to be injected during the post-fire down stroke at idle.

    Learning this is mainly a winter time project for me. I have no particular problem I am looking to solve.
  11. dad2bike

    dad2bike Retired! Cranky Old Fart Supporter

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    Try looking thru this thread.

    https://advrider.com/f/threads/ktm-690-efi-2008-2013-idiots-guide.931664/
  12. wbbnm

    wbbnm Long timer

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    I got a second wind and did some more searching. El Ponkin's TuneECU tutorial was helpful. He did briefly mention that the F map entries were in microseconds.

    And in looking more closely at the column headings I found that the first several columns are separated by only 1% of max throttle opening.

    So in looking again I discovered that there were plausible places where the FI pulse width was in the 3 millisecond range.

    It also seems that the ECU is probably using an L map at idle. These maps give FI pulse width vs rpm and manifold pressure.

    I was still pretty surprised that I couldn't find a good written tutorial on how to use TuneECU to edit maps. There is lots of info on how to download new maps.

    (There are a couple of videos with interesting titles, but I didn't try looking at them. I only find videos useful maybe 10% of the time.)
    sprouty115 likes this.
  13. ItalianRider99

    ItalianRider99 n00b

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    Hi! I'm a new member of this forum!
    I've read a lot of discussions about tuneECU and the KTM 690 and learned a lot,(a few weeks back i uploaded the akrapovic map to my bike thanks to your forum!)but i have some minor issues that i wanted to solve in some way or another so here i am on the forum writing.

    So first thing first my bike is a KTM 690 supermoto MY 2007,its relatively a new purchase so i am still gettin' used to it.
    As of this day the bike has stock air filter,complete and homologated single exhaust with DbKiller and Cat IN,also i have discovered that over the snorkel of the airbox previous owners drilled three holes of about 1 cm (diameter) to get more flow into the airbox.
    First thing i did when i got the bike was to reinstall the Cat which the previous owner removed,before it made loud bangs during deceleration,i personally was thinking it was lean becouse of the cat missing, so after the cat reinstall i flashed the akra map named : KM750EU0800231FIMap that i heard its optimal for aftermarket exhausts,also i disabled O2 sensor and SAI.
    After the flash i took it for a spin and noticed that pops in the exhaust were baffled a lot by the cat but still present,to be more precise after letting off the throttle and decelereting just under 3000 Rpm the bike 8 times out of 10 pops, also after letting off the throttle in high rpm but thats normal in my opinion.My first issue is (or at least what i think it's an issue) this popping during decel going under 3000rpm, it happends no matter what temp the engine is in, even when its stone cold and i start driving it pops on decel.
    Second thing i did was some experimentation with tunecu, i modified the akra maps to gain these things:
    -less jerky throttle response at low rpm

    -reduce on-off effect (directly linked to issue above)

    -reduce popping on decel

    So what i did was:
    -10,10,0,0,0,0,0 mod to F-L switch (worked)

    -Used Smooth AMA map with progressive throttle (worked)

    -Increased 1% over the whole F map to try achive a less leaner and popping condition(in my first ride all went well,satisfied with fluidity of the bike,but the bike seems to have some problems with idle sometimes, and it also stalled one time when decelerating so i took it back to the garage and got the 1% removed and reflashed it, now i am awaiting that it cools so tomorrow i am going to do the 15 min idle.

    Unfortunatly i have no idea of how much percentage i must add to make a normal condition in my engine with stock filter 3 holes and an aftermarket exhaust, i thought also that the stalls were generated by the 1% which was applied even in the 0 throttle position thats why i removed it.

    Summerizing then what i wanted simply to achive in this moment and what i want advice on given my inexperience is:

    -Is this popping normal? i know the exhaust is much more direct than the original dual one,its not loud but you feel it everytime, it's always present. I am worried that it could damage the engine.

    -What is your personal opinion on this? Do you have some adivice on how i should set the map for my bike? Should i leave it as so?(personally i dont mind the pops,it just seems strange that they always happend after i go just under 3000rpm) Does someone know how i shound apply percentages of trims in my maps?


    I read a lot about this @AMa. so i would be happy if i got a response from him of some other expert in this section.

    Thanks in advance to everyone who is going to respond to this post!
    P.S If i made some mistakes with my english i am sorry.
  14. ItalianRider99

    ItalianRider99 n00b

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    I informed myself on the disabling of sai and o2 and in the end, knowing that i still have the cat in i left o2 and SAI on, with the akra map, and the @ama map, it runs just fine for daily commuting, also the ep map reduced the on/off effect so it's pretty good now.
  15. waterman28

    waterman28 Been here awhile

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    So I just read tuneecu wont have any KTM related stuff on its site any longer... Thanks KTM!!!!!:dirtdog
  16. Anders-

    Anders- 690R

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    Yeah, dick move on KTMs part, tuneecu only worked on the older models anyway - why not allow it and keep the users happy?
    waterman28 and Thor_du like this.
  17. mrwwwhite

    mrwwwhite Been here awhile

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    Not defending the dick move BUT the move was forced by the European regulations. They had to implement full time ABS and lock up he ECU so that the user cannot temper with this critical security system.
    Things got even more crazy for the latest model for example... after 2014 Dealers were allowed to load with the dealer tool a performance map (if available for that MY). Now, each power map is unlocked by the part number of the approved Akra silencer, so they can only load it if you physically purchase the silencer which looks cool but is as restricted as the stock one.

    Thanks god we have PCV and the full race Akra TI for the older models!
  18. Jblok

    Jblok Been here awhile

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    Hello Guys, is there a new link with all the KTM maps?
  19. Rapakon

    Rapakon Adventurer

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    Hey,

    try the box.com account. The files are still available but not linked anymore.
  20. Jblok

    Jblok Been here awhile

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    I’m not sure what you mean, but I’ll check