KTM 690 E & TuneECU

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Maurizio, May 9, 2011.

  1. Jarrek

    Jarrek Adventurer

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    And what mods have you done to the map? How much did you add in what rpm and throttle ranges? Did you change the L tables too?
  2. burmbuster

    burmbuster Long timer

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    Each bike is different depending on what intake and exhaust set-up you are running. Yes, increase both F&L. I would start at 2% and go up from there. You will be able to tell where in the RPM range that you need to go up.
  3. leanin

    leanin Been here awhile

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    Please explain what you man by "Richen it up... Leave it stock if its a 2013." Are you saying leave the stock intake and exhaust, but richen the fuel mixture? Or something else?
  4. burmbuster

    burmbuster Long timer

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    First, what do you have as far as intake and exhaust? Stock air filter and stock exhaust?
    Second, when I say "leave it stock" I am referring to the F/L Switch values. Some guys with later models than the 2013 have changed those values to read 10.10.0.0.0. in order to help with a stalling issue. You don't need to change those at all.
    Third, what I mean by "richen it up" is you need to add the fuel percentages on the F and L maps. Read the "Code Orange" thread in the bike specific menu. It helps explain a lot.

    If you are running a stock air filter, get rid of it. It allows dust into the air box and the others allow the bike to breathe better.
  5. AMa.

    AMa. Topographer

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    To be precise, it is not the filter, it is the airbox cover which is restricting the airflow. Stock airfilter is pretty good in terms of airflow but it is not good in wet conditions because it is made of paper.

    Airbox cover replacement is the biggest advantage when seeking midrange torque. Combined with an exhaust with less back pressure it is even better. When you change hardware, you must change software to match the increased airflow. Tweaking maps in FI bikes is equivalent to re-jetting carb bikes. Nothing fancier.

    Airbox cover can be tuned by powerparts EVO1 piece, K&N EVO2 piece or by modifying the stock one. There is no big difference between them. Tried them all. Pictures previously in this thead.

    EVO1 map (KM765EU12B0231) is 15..20% richer compared to stock and it is pretty good as it is. I wanted to create a little safety margin and enrich it 4% more for two reasons. 1#, Fuel has a cooling ability and 2# I ride in Finland also in winter, and when air gets colder, it gets more dense. That means more juice to maintain the same AFR as summer. 4% enrichment does not add really any noticeable torque or power, it is just to play it safe.

    In my experience, the most important thing to fix the jerky ride and stalling problems is the EP map. I have the following maps in my bike and they seem to work well according to some other 690 riders also. (burmbuster + some guys in Finland)

    [​IMG]

    Same map in matrix mode:
    [​IMG]

    The idea was to create a gentle curve at low throttle to keep it easy in technical riding conditions. At the high end there is still enough steepness to allow power when needed. In my opinion, 690 has too long throttle twist. I tried to fix that also.

    "AMa" is good, "AMa rpm-relative" is practically impossible to stall. Both work OK in technical as well as high speed + high power conditions. KTM 2012 stock maps does not have the rpm relativity but 2013 maps do. Quite similar to mine. I have tried them also, but I like mine better.
  6. burmbuster

    burmbuster Long timer

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    I can say without a doubt that AMa's maps are the best that I have tried to date. I still have the OEM snorkel due to water crossings but have the UNI filter. Even with the snorkel these maps have the bike running better than before. The RPM range is more consistant and throttle delivery is smoother. I road single track over the weekend for the first time with these maps and used the standard performance mapping the entire ride with no twitchiness. :clap
    Next move for me is the 14 tooth countershaft sprocket!:wink:
  7. MrHix

    MrHix Been here awhile

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    Hi,

    My name is Mike (Hi Mike). I have a 2012 690 ER with a Wings silencer, smog delete, and stock airbox/air filter. I would like to go with a Uni air filter, but not the EVO I cover (maybe do some mods to the stock to improve flow and keep water out).

    I do have some minor problems starting when hot (sometimes need a little throttle or long starter push) and have had a few flame outs when clutch is pulled in with throttle off. I get about 60 MPG and would not mind lowering that to 45 - 50 MPG to get better/smoother/cooler running. I am not necessarily looking for more power, just smoother, especially off the bottom.

    I understand remapping and the basics of TunECU, but the actual modifying is confusing. I have read thru many threads and there seems to be some conflicting info.

    Is there anyone in the St Louis, MO area that I can talk to about doing a remap? It might be worth a beer somewhere to get some real world info so I can proceed.

    Cheers,

    MrHix
  8. AMa.

    AMa. Topographer

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    F map means injection pulse width according to throttle plate opening@ given rpm
    L map means injection pulse width according to manifold absolute pressure (MAP) @ given rpm

    F map is usable at high engine load when MAP is close to atmosphere or there is just a little underpressure. L map is usable at low engine load, when there is much underpressure.

    When you are cruising at suburban speeds throttle plate is almost completely shut. The pressure in manifold is very low. L-map starts from 190 hPa, which is approx. 0,19 * atmospheric pressure. KTM 690 fuel pressure is 3,5 bar or 3500 hPa. The amount of fuel been delivered to manifold is defined by 2 things; pulse width (injector open) + pressure difference. Injecting the same, let's say 8000 ┬Ás, at 0,2 bar MAP compared to 0,9 bar MAP makes 19% difference in the amount of fuel injected. That makes a lot in terms of AFR. Therefore, you need to match the pulse width to manifold (under)pressure.

    F-L map tweak to 10,10,0,0,0,0,0 means that the bike's ECU uses almost all the time the F map. 10 means 10% throttle as a limit to change using F map. At higher revs (1800 and up) the limit is 0%. So the bike is using the F map practically all the time.

    L map is more accurate at low engine load. That's where the jerky ride and stalling gremlin lives. L map has also the ability to adapt to changed airflow conditions like clogged air filter or changing atmospheric pressure (high elevation, barometric low).

    In 690cc KTM 690 bikes (2012-) there is no need to tweak the F-L switch map.
  9. burmbuster

    burmbuster Long timer

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    Are you running the DB killer in the Wings? I started out with the spark arrester (DB killer) out of my Q4 exhaust and found that the added back pressure of the spark arrester actually helped the bike run better.
  10. AMa.

    AMa. Topographer

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    That's because you have stock snorkel on. Intake vs exhaust must be balanced in terms of flow.

    Take the arrester off and get rid of the snorkel (you can remove it completely for test drive purposes with my maps) just to try the 3000 rpm pull. You will not go back to stock airbox...
  11. burmbuster

    burmbuster Long timer

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    If I tried it without the snorkel I would be punishing myself because I can't run without it and still ride water crossings. I have been thinking of adding another snokel on top of the OEM airbox by using epoxy. We will see how it goes. There looks to be plenty of room toward the front of the airbox.
  12. AMa.

    AMa. Topographer

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    Hi Mike

    EVO 1 mapping does not give any more power. It gives more low+midrange torque = more torque over rpm integral, which means more driveable engine characteristics.

    If you are not soaking your bike in the swamp, the powerparts EVO1 airbox cover is OK. A little bit of H2O is good for combustion engines, they used water spray straight to combustion chambers at 80's in F1 cars. That was time when there was no lack of power (turbo era).

    I have once stalled my bike with EVO2 filter when riding straight through water crossing at 60+ mph. Coasted to roadside and cranked the bike on again.

    Modifying maps with TE is easy. You can add or substract values in each cell or activated cells by clicking left mouse. Read this thread from the start and ask for more info if needed.
  13. AMa.

    AMa. Topographer

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    Well, real enduro race bikes do not have such snorkels. KTM 525...530 bikes have air intake much lower than 690 and there are no "periscopes". They run in wet conditions also.
  14. Albie

    Albie Kool Aid poisoner

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    Do the enduros over there have a lot of knee deep water crossings? Around here they don't seem to get more then hub deep. Now a lot of the DS rides we do around here can involve deep water crossings, and I have drawn in water into my 450 EXC's airbox on more then one occasion.

    That being said though. I imagine if I'm ever in water up over the seat, I'll probably have a lot more concerns then if my intake is pulling in water. :lol3

    So I run a Evo 1 lid. The problem I have with that lid though is the really dusty environments we ride so I am constantly cleaning the filters.

    Oh, this would have had my dumping water out on my 450, the 690, not so much. :lol3

    [​IMG]
  15. MrHix

    MrHix Been here awhile

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    Yes, I am running the small DB killer right now and am even thinking about putting in a 90 degree turn-down tip.

    Cheers,

    MrHix
  16. MrHix

    MrHix Been here awhile

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    Thanks AMa.

    Cheers,

    MrHix
  17. AMa.

    AMa. Topographer

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    I was under an impression that "water crossings" meant more like splashing water than submerging bikes in the river. Sorry about my crappy english.

    EVO1 lid catches air higher than stock airbox lid, so it is better for river crossings. EVO2 does not.
  18. Albie

    Albie Kool Aid poisoner

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    Your English is fine. Normal thinking people use boats to cross rivers. It's us idiots down here that try and do it with motorcycles. :lol3
  19. Gros Buck

    Gros Buck Beef = Packed Vegetables

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    Ok

    Then there are some idiots here up north too ... :deal

    Paul Jr
  20. emilio700

    emilio700 Adventurer

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    Spent while searching here and a few other places, called KTMtwins, no definitive answer: Where does one find a tuning cable for the USDM 690 enduro for tuneecu?

    Forgive me if it's right under my nose, I searched.