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Discussion in 'Vendors' started by Perun, Feb 15, 2014.
Can anyone point to a thread that discusses a sub-frame bolt failure?
I have installed Perun's. Great quality and price.
Just bought the top rack and subframe/tank replacement bolts (for a 2014).
Great service and superb products from a really great guy - thanks.
Yep, got mine from half-way across the world very quickly and in good order. I have no problems ordering from Perun.
Are there 2 different bolt lengths depending on year of 690?
I'm getting ready to install my Perun tank bolt kit on my 2015 690 Enduro R.
In my kit the sleeve seems fairly short compared to the bolt.
The bolt is 0.165 m
The sleeve is 0.117
Are those the correct length for a 2015?
installed and happy with the quality. Now we'll see how well they hold up. Mostly concerned with the rear rack and the possible effects on the fuel tank/subframe. I tend to load and take too much crap on trips. Thanks Perun
Yep, they should be. I was the "test dummy" for the longer bolt needed for the 2014 and up, as they have a different exhaust mount than earlier bikes. He has it all worked out and he sells some fine stuff BTW.
Thanks! I just wanted to know I had the rights ones for a 2015 before I started the work. I'm very slowwwww when I work on my bike, not mechanically inclined.
Hi Sieg, cheers!
Hi, it is correct length. Stainless steel sleve is same for all model years. Bolts are different - 2008 - 2013 use shorter bolts and 2014 - 2015 use longer bolts, because of additional silencer mount.
The Perun instructions are clear, the 2015 KTM service manual is not that good.
Trying to remove the airbox, step/picture 'G00740-10 on page 58 says:
- loosen hose clip 5. That's it, doesn't say anything more before then saying "raise the air box at the rear."
Can't see in there very well.
Am I supposed to work that clamp towards the rear of the bike?
Does the airbox need to be pulled back a bit (away from intake?) before trying raise it? Does not want to be raised as is.....
Wrenching does not come naturally to me, I was hoping for a better service manual.
Advice is welcome!
Have you thought about creating an engine skid plate for the 690? I know there are several solutions, but none that would match your eventual solution.
Hi, sorry I just saw your post. You probably did your work by now, but it is the clamp that goes on rubber tube leading towards throttle body. One closer to air box. And yes, you should pull air box towards rear of the bike, and up. Move it left and right, and it will pop out.
Well, I have some plans, but I cant promise when it will be. I am in a process of purchasing some new CNC cutting machinery, and it will make some of my plans, including skid plate, more realistic. And thank you for having faith in my ideas! :)
Not done yet, because I have a 3 day 1,500 km ride this weekend and I didn't want to risk a wrenching mistake. I've had lots of good replies on other ADVriders threads too, so I should be able to do the job with my mediocre wrenching skills. I'll adjust the shock preload too, while I have the tank mobile.
Done! Kit fits the 2015 perfectly, thanks....
KTM 690 Subframe (tank)reinforcement kit was well thought out product from the beginning. But there was one thing I always wanted to make better. 2014 and 2015 bikes use lower tank bolt as mounting point for exhaust bracket. In OEM setup, countersunk bolt and countersunk washer are used to hold exhaust bracket. This OEM bolt screws into OEM threaded sleeve. Using countersunk bolt and washer KTM's engineers prevented bolt cap to stick out too much, possibly interfering with chain.
In order to prevent free play in lower tank joint, we need to swap flimsy OEM rubber bushings with plastic bushings, than to swap OEM threaded sleeve with one without thread and finally to swap two OEM bolts with one long bolt.
This long bolt is really long - between 150 and 160 mm, depending on washer we use. Finding M8 bolt that long, in proper strength class (10.9) is not an easy task. On the market, two models of bolts in those size could be found - allen head and hex head. Both could be used, but with flat washer over OEM countersunk washer. Allen head bolt would stick out too much, possibly rubbing the chain. So, I used hex head bolt. Hex head is shorter then allen head, so it is less likely to rub the chain. And that worked well. But, there was room for improvement.
Finally, some time ago I was able to source M8x160 countersunk washer in 10.9 class.
This was perfect as this bolt fits with OEM countersunk washer perfectly.
M8x160 countersunk bolt is a bit too long, as it protrudes on the other side few mm's more than it would be perfect. So, I cut 7 mm's off, and that does the trick.
Now lower assembly for 2014-2015 bikes is as good as it gets. Looking from exhaust side, there is no visible difference between OEM setup and Perun moto setup.
Downside is that this bolt is made only in plain, non-zinc coated version, so I had to apply zinc coating, after adjusting the length. Also, price of this bolt is ridiculous (for a bolt) - 10 times the price of hex head bolt of that length and quality. But this won't affect customers, because I won't raise the price.
I have just done the modifications to my 2015 690 today, and found that the right hand side bolt was just turning the tube, I have access to a windy gun to shock it out but once I did I took a closer look, and for those having trouble getting the lower threaded tube out, there is an insert in the centre of the tube that takes a 5mm hex key to give you something to hold the tube still whilst removing the bolt from the other end.
Oh, very useful info. As soon as I lay my but on new bike, I will take photos of that and I will update instructions on my web site. Thanks!
Would it be possible to purchase this bolt separately? I have an RR kit for a 2013, but I now have a 2016 and only need the longer flat head bolt...