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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by greengoose, Jul 20, 2008.
Gotcha- thanks everyone and Dirty!
Is it holding up?
Do you mean the throttle response when you say surgy? I've got an '11 with the KTM powerparts exhaust, and a modified OEM airbox. I loaded the EVO1 maps on the bike, and she runs like a top, though the throttle is touchy as shit when I'm riding slowly in town - makes me look like I have no idea what I'm doing some times, which is mostly true
I might try and load the acra maps before the next ride to see if I notice any difference in them.
If you have the stock intake system, then the bike might not be getting enough air through the snorkel? I also need to cross deep water occasionally, so I drilled two 1 1/4 inch holes on either side of my airbox cover, and then cut some PVC pipe to make baffles to keep water from splashing directly in the airbox. End result is more air, and the holes are level with the stock snorkel intake and can't splash in, and if it gets that deep well then I have other problems. I've taken quite a few DEEP :eek1 crossings so far and no problems
Any1 with powerparts exhaust here, with catalyst?
Does the SAS need to stay on with this pipe?
Hi it's very difficult to reduce weight in this KTM enduro and off road bikes ,
How ever like to know what's the WeightSaving when fitted with Akrapovic FULLSYSTEM with CarbonFibre Shields over the original Total exhaust with shields ?
Like to replace the Original Battery with KTM Twins P3 battery, this may save 4 lbs ,
Any other options to reduce weight. ( like lightweight sprockets / Lightweight wheels etc ) on this KTM 690 EnduroR? 2014
Like to add Rally Raid 2 fuel tanks ,hope this Balances weight OUT to IN ?
The best weight reduction I have found, and easily the most cost-effective, was for me to lose 20 lbs. It would have been quite a challenge to shave 20 lbs off this bike, but I had plenty of excess weight in my mid-section. In fact, another 10 lbs is my goal.
Don't know what the Akra weighs but the oem can is a whopping 4.7kg.
I got a li-ion battery, I haven't weighed it but it is as light as a feather, (be aware that li-ion batteries need a different type of charger/tender to the standard lead acid batteries).
I think when you start weighing sprockets you are going to extremes. It's easier and cheaper to go on a diet
Are you referring to making the bike faster or more maneuverable. You can loose all the belly weight in the world and it's not going to make the bike feel lighter in the tight stuff. You may be more fit when you have to pick it up on a single track but the bike will still be the same weight. I just replaced mine with the wings exhaust and I can totally feel the difference in the ass end. I also got a tank bag and fender bag to keep some extra tube and tool weight up front. If your not touring or going overnight anywhere don't put any racks or bags on the back. If your riding an ohv area that's only 50 miles big don't fill up the gas tank for 150. Some of the tires out there weight more than others as well. Run HD tubes not the UHD. If it's a 2014 shed the weight of the abs system if you don't need it, same with the smog crap. Battery is definitely a spot to loose some weight. Get the motion pro lightweight rim locks big difference from the standard ones. Hope this helps.
Yup I have been trying to lose my weight too iam 50 it's to that easy from now ,I couldn't go beyond 2.5 lbs ,Need to spend more time working out & Less calorie intake ,
Easiest possible route chose to try diet the bike 1st
Anyone tried to MOD the exhaust (header) and reroute it like this bike was originaly designed for (low pipe like the 690 RR)?
I know that Mecasystem makes a low header system, but anyone make their own?
This should not be too complicated. Low header, new bracket for the muffler and skid plate.
Why? Its more prone to damage lower down.
Well protected with the proper skid plate it would be fine.
I have never seen an off-road bike with a header that runs completely outside the frame like the 690.
I just installed a DanMoto exhaust from china on my 2011 Enduro r. A huge weight savings and performance increase like other high end aftermarket exhausts but without the cost. I paid $130 shipped.
It sounds excellent, cuts down on motor temp, and you can feel the performance. My local Dealer remapped it. I only have slight trouble on a cold start-up, have to hit the starter 2-3 times before it'll idle continuously.
The build quality is top notch, instructions are in proper english, not chinienglish.
The only fitment problem I had was to use a pipe cutter to take about 1/2" off the mid pipe that came with exhaust to make the mounting bracket match up at the tank.
the cold start problem is a classic sign of an improper fuel map.
Another Wings muffler install. Very nice piece of kit with top quality fit and finish. Pretty reasonable price for what you get.
I used the quietest of the two baffle inserts. Sound is very subdued at low throttle with a nice growl when you goose it. I did nothing to modify the fuel/air map. Just install and ride. I didn't even bother with the 15 minute idle reset. Engine fueling is as perfect as stock.
The greatest benefit I have noticed is the significant decrease in heat radiating from the muffler. This alone makes it worth the cash.
In a effort to reduce the heat and some of the weight of the muffler on my 690 Enduro I am in the process of gutting it of the cat and all other surplus steel in there and fitting a straight through baffle. It should sound better than the bean can noise it makes a the moment too. Its all a bit of an experiment so we'll see how it works out. I see looking back someone else had opened one of these up so skip this if theres nothing new.
The exhaust gas make quite a trip before making its way into the outside world. From out of the header pipe and into the muffler it carries on through an extension of the headed pipe into the catalytic converter and into a large cavity at the rear of the muffler. This cavity has a perforated inner lining with a heat proof cloth between it and the outer skin to dampen the noise From there it bounces around and has to enter the front cavity through a tube, or the two tiny holes in the plate that separates the front from the rear of the muffler. The gasses bounce around in this cavity then enter the tube which passes through the rear cavity and directly out into the world. With all the work put into the thing it almost seems a shame to pull the guts out of it, but it really was asking for it.
Need more pics and info on this. Wonder if just taking a hole saw to the tip would make it sound better?
It would make more noise for sure. The gas would go through the cat converter into the rear chamber and be able to escape directly out your new hole. Some gas would likely recirculate through the front chamber as there will still be the two tubes you can see in the pic. This would be ok.
I should have time to finish the mods on mine in a week. I'll put up some more pics then. I can't wait to hear what it sounds like. Here's a link to a video I did a few months back. Cheers