KTM 690 Fuel tank

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by dandini, Sep 25, 2008.

  1. VxZeroKnots

    VxZeroKnots Long timer

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    Could you bend a piece of say 4mm aluminum to bolt into the stock hold down location, then cover the tank and have a hole for the filler. You could then rivet a catch system like the stock one to the seat pan and rivet the stock catch to the 4mm piece of alum.

    Make sense?
  2. c-m

    c-m Long timer

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  3. The Letter J

    The Letter J Long timer

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    Yea, I thought about doing exactly that previously, and it still seems like a simple(ish) and reasonable option. I'm kind of wondering about using something similar to an Adel/P-clamp on the frame between where the upper and lower side panels meet, and bolting straight through the seat into a captured nut on each side. Or using some aluminum or stainless flat stock between the 2 clamps, over the tank (but still under the seat) and using a stock style seat catch. It's pretty hard to see, but that is how I attached my roll chart holder to my old headlight frame (pay no attention to the pant-less man in the background!:lol3):

    [​IMG]

    Same way I mounted the ballast plate on that light:

    [​IMG]
    VxZeroKnots likes this.
  4. The Letter J

    The Letter J Long timer

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    It performs 100% better than a bike that has run out of gas!

    In all seriousness, after running without an airbox for ~11,000 miles, I've noticed no loss of performance. The pod filter setup is also QUIETER than the EVO1 lid on the OEM airbox. Zero dust in the throttle body. Airbox or not, after many trial and error sessions with TuneECU, the bike runs better than ever, I know that statement doesn't mean much for '14+ owners. I wouldn't say the airbox tank is for "emergency" use either, I kept my old airbox tank plumbed in full time (no on/off valve) so I'd always burn through that fuel first. I fill it up pretty much everytime I hit the gas station just so I don't have to fill up as often, even though the bike is sometimes used just for running local errands that don't need the extra range.
    c-m likes this.
  5. The Walrus

    The Walrus Gone and back again.

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    I'm astounded by the number of lawnmower, snowblower and small motor fuel tanks. In fact, I'm overwhelmed.
    I have a 2015 bike and there's no way I'm tearing out my Uni Filter/airbox. I'm much happier placing an auxiliary tank
    tucked in to my luggage racks and plumbing it into the bike. There's a lot of fab work in J's setup which is admirable
    but outside my range. I'm also keeping the volume to 4-6 liters and under $100, many of the tanks sell for $40-60 range.
    I'm still testing my imagination and will update when I make a decision, several options are very tempting.
    Thanks to everyone for posting their solutions, I've played on the Gila site (no pricing) and looked at those Acerbis tanks.
    The front plate tanks, 0.8 and 1.3 gallons, could be mounted to the luggage racks and their flow system is available separately.

    :hmmmmm
    c-m likes this.
  6. Spartan

    Spartan It's All Attitude

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  7. MizzouRider

    MizzouRider Long timer

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    I'm waiting to hear the same on this one.


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  8. rade

    rade Adventure enthusiast

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    I have sold for sure some to 14/15 bikes... but I dont have any feedback...
    I can get money back guarantee, if you are not happy with the set up...
  9. rade

    rade Adventure enthusiast

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    Here is new set up with KN filter...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The Experience is that re-mapping is not required...


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  10. MotoPundit

    MotoPundit MacGyver

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    Curious if you will use a filter sock over that K&N ?
    Belden likes this.
  11. fseybert

    fseybert Adventurer

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    Are there any updates on the Rade setup on the '14/'15 bikes? How long between filter cleanings in a dusty environment, i.e. fire roads?
  12. renogeorge

    renogeorge Let's ride!!

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    I don't get the concern over filter maintenance without an air box. Motors are big air pumps. And the intake is like a vacuum cleaner when motor is running. So, any dust in the air is sucked to the filter with or without an airbox. Most pure dirt bikes run foam filters in somewhat of a box, but not sealed at the top and in most cases at the cover as with KTM smaller singles. I ran a foam filter on my 990 for 20k miles, often checking for dust in the intake. Running the same and checking on my 690. No dust in intake. In fact, keeping the dust out may actually be easier without an airbox and covers which may or may not hold the filter tightly and keep it sealed properly. There is a little more intake noise but not an issue for me. I felt that both my 990 and 690 ran better without the airbox. No dyno runs to verify. But I emphasize low and mid range response, which seems bettter than OEM to me, with remaps on both.

    I am very happy with the Rade tank on my 2012. Fillups are no big deal. I run the main tank first and don't fill the Rade tank every time.

    I haven't tried it. But I suspect the EVO1 map, installed by a KTM dealer, will work for the 2013 and later.....

    FWIW
  13. JH4thgen

    JH4thgen Adventurer

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    1 The concern is that a paper element lets dirt by. Which can be a opinion. But 2 is that you are reducing the filter material sq in. That is a fact. 3 there is more dust in the shock/ throttle body area than behind the headstock. I bet the bike runs just fine without an airbox. I also bet that following your buddy's for a 5hr dusty silty dual sport race will result in ingested dust In the motor.
  14. renogeorge

    renogeorge Let's ride!!

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    Hmmmm. That sure hasn't been my experience. Properly oiled foam filters have served me very well for 40+ years of desert racing and dusty trail riding. Those filters were not in an airbox anything like the piece on a 690. And the intake point on most real dirt bikes is right above the shock, not forward at the steering stem. But whatever works. A pod style filter, clamped directly to a carb or throttle body is pretty foolproof--eliminates problems with filters not being seated properly, air box lids that warp/leak/don't seal. I'm not selling or promoting anything, just wondering where the fear of open foam filters comes from. Doesn't seem to me that those fears are borne out in the full dirt bike world, where dust exposure is probably much greater than in Adventure land....

    FWIW
    Beema Killa and VxZeroKnots like this.
  15. ztrab

    ztrab Long timer

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    I have run an aluminum 1.3 gal tank under the seat with a uni two stage filer for about 8,000 miles, Baja silt beds, dust, you name it with no problems. I am mindful of water crossings, otherwise its WFO. I carry an extra uni outer in a zip loc bag for long trips. The throttle body is always clean - I had the dealer remap the bike. It's been working great for me. I'd buy the Rade tank in minute if i didn't have my set up - the bike doesn't need any more weight aft, especially above the fender. Fuel is pulled automatically via the vent I put in the neck of the aftermarket filler neck
    1 Bored Clerk and dva78 like this.
  16. svflyer

    svflyer Been here awhile

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    I have recently purchased a 690 that has a messed up tank bolt. It's the lower clutch side. I have tried to epoxy it and am still getting a considerable leak if I fill the tank. I'm considering getting a tank from an inmate or perhaps getting a safari and only ever putting a couple gallons in the actual tank. I'm curious if anyone has or knows someone who has, successfully had a plastic welder fix the tank.
    I'm willing to take the tank off and get it fixed, I just want to hear that someone has had success. I can deal with it for a summer but want to have a permanent fix planned.

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  17. gar

    gar Adventurer Supporter

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    They make fuel tank sealers that you mix, then pour into the tank to coat the inside.
  18. svflyer

    svflyer Been here awhile

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    For plastic gas tanks or for metal? It also wouldn't solve the problem of keeping the bolt in place now that it has been cut out.

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  19. gar

    gar Adventurer Supporter

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  20. svflyer

    svflyer Been here awhile

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    Thanks for the link. I think that might be a good alternative to just plastic epoxy to try to glue the bolt in and hopefully seal the hole. Part of the problem with the epoxy is that it's not really sticking to the plastic of the gas tank. When it gets warmer I'm going to fill the tank so I can get a better idea of where exactly it's leaking.

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