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Discussion in 'Parallel World (790/890)' started by Migolito, Feb 5, 2019.
Sweet 79 XT500 ..It looks very clean
Thanx it’s actually a 1980.
I took a 225 mile spin with Motoz Rallzs mounted front and rear yesterday. Did some paved twisties, some mud, some rocky trails. I think they are going to work well for my wants/needs (Long distance all-roads travel). I dropped down to 20lbs of pressure for the off-road which helped a good bit.
They certainly aren't a lightweight tire - Front was 2lbs heavier than the Karroo3 and rear was a whopping 4lbs heavier. However the gain in weight also comes with much better traction and a tire built to take more abuse, a worthy trade for me.
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Looking forward to hearing your input on that FRONT tractionator tire, had the first gen on my 990 & was probably the worst cupping tire iv'e had, do tell.
Is the full size image the .dxf file that the waterjet cutters are using?
I'll let you know. I've had similar bad experiences with 3 different varieties of the Motoz fronts on heavy bikes previously. However I ran a RallZ front for a trip on my 800XC and it held up to the abuse of on and off-road fairly well. It did cup severely later in the trip but I suspect that was caused by excess heat build up from a combination of factors (heavy duty tube, hot weather, and long hi-speed run back from Newfounland). Still, I did eek out over 4k miles out of it and liked it well enough to give it another go on this bike. I'm hoping that the lack of a tube, a bit less weight, and watching the street pressures I'm running a bit closer will make for less cupping. If so, it's a winner.
These are the Tractionator Desert H/T tires. I hit some sand, rutted, rocky roads just to test the traction. Very impressed with these tires. I even ran at street pressures. 32 psi rear and 34 psi front. What pressures would you recommend for off-road? 25 psi? These are with tubes. I have a 48t rear sprocket and she cruises at 67 mph at around 4800 rpm. In rally mode she has plenty of hit to lift the front. This bike is awesome!
No one can give you a legitimate PSI for your bike. It's completely based on the total weights, sprung and unsprug, the terrain, your right hand, how you ride, etc. Get out there as you've been doing and start to find the sweet spots (PSI) for you. I'd go lower the PSI 2 psi at a time and see where it gets you. And, the front and back will not necessarily be the same PSI. I had the same rear on my 500EXC and it wears like iron.
Very nice tires imo!
Yep! But let me confirm hole centres first :)
I've seen a few posts about the radiator not being well protected.
I wonder if a protector for the Duke would fit? https://smile.amazon.com/Radiator-Grille-Motorcycle-Aluminum-Protective/dp/B07MM95639
28 psi Front and Rear....
Just mounted my new GPS today! Got the Garmin Zumo 396 LMT-S..... it was on sale here in Norway, so I had to find out if it was any good. And it did not disappoint.
My last Garmin was a Navigator V...and the 396 are twice as fast in every way. There is no clear "how to" on transferring your rutes from your mobile phone to the GPS unit, so I tried to shine a light on the easy method I use.
Must be the angle on that photo - the Perun plate with the spacers looks like it's hovering well above the level of the seat. Can you snap a shot standing parallel to the bike, and level with the plate/seat? I understand that the plate with the spacers are supposed to be relatively level with each other.
Hey TT, having made my own plate I found that the front spacers need to be approx 42mm tall with the rears at 24mm giving the bottom face of the plate about 3mm clearance over the rear of the plastic mudguard...
My 6mm thick plate then sits 20mm above the saddle.
The Perun plate does appear to sit very high(?)
What about a plate which angles parallel with the downslope of the OEM seat? That way the plate would just become a continuation of the seat plane creating one single mounting surface for any manner of bags, particularly for guys like me who will be trying to mount a Mosko Moto BC40 length wise from the end of the seat onwards and onto the plate. If I were mounting a top box then a plate parallel to the 'ground' would matter, but for many other purposes I can see an angled plate rockin.
Essentially leaving the end of the plate just over the plastic tail, and then angling the rest down to be perfectly in sync with the seat.
What do you think?
The Perun plate has an optional lowered subplate which I am waiting on. It will bring it level or below the seat which is ideal...the shipping cost as much as the plate lol
Yeah, I like your thinkin but unfortunately the front frame mounts are lower than the rears (and the threaded holes are perpendicular with the ground plane - not the seat plane) a plate running parallel with the seat plane (using simple turned / barrel spacers) will cause the CSK screw heads to sit crook in the plate top face rather than flush.
The only other way is to make spacers which have threaded holes angled 90 degrees to the seat plane... Bleh, I'll post up a sketch :)
Something like this would permit the rack plate to align with seat plane...
Many ways to skin a cat...
I like the prerun plate, but think its too big for the 790 and my needs. 1290 tail is much bigger that it was designed for. If they shrunk it 25% so it scaled to the 790 that would be great..
I think that right there, with the plate parallel to the rear plastic fender, while also being at the perfect level & angle of the seat, would garner attention. :)