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Discussion in 'Parallel World (790/890)' started by Migolito, Jul 14, 2019.
One more reason to get an Excel A60 1.60 rim.
I run mousse's in my Enduro and Rally bike in the fronts - thousands of kms without an issue.
Can crash into stuff without fear of pinch flats.
UHD with double rim locks in the rear.
I've seen too many rear mousse's melt at high speed.
The mousse in my 570 has been in for ages. When it got a bit 'soft' , I cut/added a section and regreased - all good at high speed too.
Watching with interest as I can see I will turn my tubeless rims into 50 cent pieces (Aussie thing) when I get into the rocks.
In the deep sand on the 790, I've found that 30psi was more than rideable and protected the rims from damage.
Yes all in miles - It will need managing i.e. taking out every so often to re-grease etc, probably also depending on heat and remember it's always cold in the UK!! :)
Agree on all points...my 300 and 501 always have a nitro mousse in the front...they last forever . For a DS rides on the 501 a rear mousse lasts 1200 miles or so...cant imagine a rear mousse lasting very long on the 790.. will see what nuetech says...maybe I can run an oversized bib?
The curveball is the 1.85 front rim. I don't want a 1.6 on the front of this bike...
Been running 28psi front and rear...
Willing to try it out and see how things play out
Lyndon mentioned cutting up an UHD tube and wrapping it around the mousse to make the fit even tighter, thus preserving the mousse longer. It's the play/flex between the tire and the mousse that creates heat and degrades the mousse.
I've also even heard of installing the inner red tube from Tubless or a bicycle inner tube under the mousse. This way you can pump up the pressure for the road and high speed sections and then "air down" for the soft stuff.
I would think the same thing. I've seen multiple guys melt brand new rear mousses in fast desert racing on a 450. By the end of ~100 miles there was goop coating the swingarm and essentially nothing left in the tire.
I can't imagine they would last long on a heavy bike with 90+ HP. I definitely would not ever ride a mousse on the highway, and I'd be wary even on fast off-pavement stuff. One could probably get away with the front (assuming good fitment) but I don't know how much longevity one could get even from that.
I only run a mousse on the front of my 450 race bike and I can usually get ~6 months out of one before it gets compacted to the point of squirrely-ness. Probably somewhere in the realm of 800 miles.
Happy new year everyone!
I have ordered a new wheelset for my R model. I went for the KTM heavy duty wheel set with 1,8/2,5 rims. May not be as cool as the Haan versions, but hope they will be good enough for me.
Thinking i gonna switch wheels often and want that to be as hassle free as possible. Therefor i think maybe buying a set of brake disks to permanently be mounted on the new wheels.
The OEM discs was 160 euros back, and 190 euros front and with ABS sensors, nuts etc, the total cost is 610 euros. (A lot of money for me anyway)
What do you think?
Do you swap your discs when you change wheels? Maybe it is not so much hassle?
Is there maybe cheaper discs from other manufactors ?
I got a set of oem brake discs, abs sensor rings and rear sprocket on sale end of December for 403€ for my sexy Haan 1.8/2.5 wheels.
I have a spare set of wheels for my FE501S and have done that for other bikes as well. You have to get another set of brake discs and a rear sprocket. If you have to swap discs, it takes so much time that you will talk yourself out of switching wheels unless you are going on a very long ride.
This ktm set was not available anymore in Finland so I wen't with Haan instead.. I would suggest single front rotor so you already have all the front disks you need =) only add one for the rear making it two usable sets..
@ramirin, like the sound of having the single up front, do you feel a difference, think it would work better off road? Is it easy to do?
@SoilSampleDave couldn't you use the same rear sprocket attached to the sprocket carrier to just swap over?
I'm looking into the rear 2.5 dirtstar wheel from KTM to replace stock and doesn't look like it comes with sprocket carrier so I'm hoping when swapping wheels I can just remove current and swap it over - 30 second job.
I’m so dirt oriented that I forgot about the cush hub! I would assume the same carrier would be used, so yeah, you could do that. You could also use a larger rear sprocket on your dirt wheels for better offroad gearing, which would mean a second carrier for convenience. Not sure if the same on the 790, but on the enduro bikes, flipping the axle blocks exactly equals two teeth on the rear sprocket. That’s how I use my spare wheels on my 501.
ha ha… I'm hoping its the same carrier (just waiting for confirmation from dealer) so will save me a few quid. I've already gone to a 47 sprocket so just a straight swap - a proper set of tyres on these bikes makes a big difference to me.
Is the bike gonna be street legal in Finlnd running single front rotor?
How about the master cylinder? Would you use a master cylinder intended for 2 calipers with only one? Or would you use an XC master cylinder?
Easy is difficult to define but let's say it's bolt-on install. I don't know about the difference yet as I have made the change but it's water covered ice outside at the moment and for next months should be winter.
I'm sure it's not big improvement on riding but it is easier to mount wheel and for me it was half the work and cost with rotors. Can be reverted back anyday.
I suppose it's at least in same level with exc ready-to-race mode (no mirrors, no killers, no blinkers, full blown knobbies). Or 690 without rear plastics hanging on backwheel. Or cars with 20" rims, tinted glasses, china leds.
My rides happen in remote areas and I don't really consider other than if it's safe (for me and others) and reliable when making changes to bike.
Master cylinder needs to be changed to something similar what single rotor bikes have (690, 950se). I have 690 duke's cylinder. Otherwise it will need a lot of squeeze power to operate.
Rottweiler was coming out with a conversion kit at some point, I believe.
Thank you all, good learning here!
I,m looking at he Duke R version, it must be the partnr 7601310100030 ? (about 300 euros + brake lines)
I wonder will the handguards fit with these? Do you have a photo?
Looking at the Brembo homesite it must be about the same size as the Brembo 15 RCS, about the same price, but is also with adjustable level ratio.
The RCS comes with different cylinder diameters but if i understand correctly, Brembo do not recomend the bigger diameters for single rotors, max 15mm.
The Rottweiller version on the 790 site has 17 mm, but i think that is for a replacement for the OEM brake cylinder.
Its Winter here also, so a lot of time to speculate..
partnr 7601310100030 OEM Duke 690R :
Brembo 15 RCS on a Duke 690, (tight for the handguards ):
Single front brake stuff:
- 76013001033 HAND BRAKE CYLINDER ASSY
- 63013012000 BRAKE HOSE FRONT 06
- 0603100141 washer gasket 10X14X1 KTM
- 62113020100 HOLL. SCREW M10X1X19.5