KTM LC4 (640) Thread Index

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by meat popsicle, Jul 9, 2005.

  1. taraba

    taraba Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2016
    Oddometer:
    17
    Location:
    Serbia
    Had 2 LC4's so far (640 SM and 625 SXC) both are harder to pull than any of the cable bikes i had.
    I tried few different oils (Magura blue blood, Citroen Mineral oil, baby oil :D) and all have been pretty much the same.
    Kind of figured that's how they are supposed to be.
  2. timeOday

    timeOday Long timer

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2008
    Oddometer:
    3,031
    Location:
    New Mexico
    Those people are talking about newer KTMs. The LC4 clutch pull is heavy. (It's also bulletproof and lasts forever.) The simplest thing that will help is using a normal length lever (not a shorty) and moving the perch in towards the center so you are pulling near the end of the lever for more leverage. The second thing to consider would be a Rekluse clutch, if you can find one for it (I have not tried one on my 640 though).
  3. Diddly

    Diddly Bored of Directors

    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2015
    Oddometer:
    574
    Location:
    Indiana
    My 05 is pretty easy to pull compared to cables.

    Moving the clutch inboard was mentioned above. Also, Have you tried adjusting the red knob on the lever to get the length of your hand / lever pull right for you?

    I think the Rekluse is out of production for the 640, so you’d be looking for shelf stock or second hand. Good luck.

    Midwest Mountain Engineering sells replacement clutch levers that cut pull effort in half. The sweet adjustment spot is twice as hard to find, but once dialed in it is very nice. I’m not sure if they still sell it for the 640. There’s other possibilities (Clake out of Australia?) but they get pricey.

    I don’t really know what I’m talking about here. So, look for input from Gunnerbuck, Drop, others...The throw out rod for clutch is adjusted inside the left engine case. You adjust the rod position in the left side so the rod position at the clutch slave cylinder (right side) is positioned within the range of movement of the slave cylinder plunger. I wonder if your rod adjustment is a little much toward the slave cylinder, whether that would cause a heavier feel at the lever? Seems like it couldn’t be too far out of adjustment, or there wouldn’t be enough slave cylinder throw to disengage the clutch. - Seems like adjustment of the throw out rod in the opposite direction might reduce effort at the lever? There’s not a lot of adjustment to play with and Too much adjustment could result in the clutch slipping. Either way, you’d have to pull the left case to make adjustments and see if that helps it. You may end up spending a lot of time fiddling inly to find it doesn’t help.
  4. Parx400

    Parx400 Long timer Supporter

    Joined:
    Jun 17, 2010
    Oddometer:
    6,974
    Location:
    Sacramento CA
    I need to get a new right side radiator. The area where the cap sits in is badly eaten up and will not hold a proper seal. The stock radiators are discontinued. Have any of you used the aftermarket ones on eBay?
  5. NitroAcres

    NitroAcres MotoBiggots Suck Supporter

    Joined:
    Mar 28, 2010
    Oddometer:
    1,042
    Location:
    A ChickenHouse in NorthGeorgia
    I have the aluminum ebay ones on my SXC...took some modifications to the mounts to make them fit..same for my Sons SXC...
    I have some factory ones up in the shop..send me a PM and I will send you the one you need...I have several.
    larryboy likes this.
  6. Thomas B.

    Thomas B. desert racer

    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2010
    Oddometer:
    1,004
    Location:
    Switzerland and around the globe
    no the leak is from the top of hose 1 and the screen 4 is missing (no idea where that went to?)
    hose.jpg
  7. skibum69

    skibum69 slave to gravity Super Supporter

    Joined:
    May 14, 2006
    Oddometer:
    11,992
    Location:
    New Melbourne, Newfoundland
    Did you check eBay? I saw used 525 ones on there yesterday
  8. supermoto690

    supermoto690 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 2, 2017
    Oddometer:
    108
    I just replaced mine carburettor fuel lines on fcr41, and I re routed them on another place and have noticed that after every ride some fuel drips out, is that normal? I do wheelies 90%of the time riding if that has something to do with it.

    Attached Files:

  9. Dolly Sod

    Dolly Sod I want to do right, but not right now

    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2003
    Oddometer:
    18,873
    Location:
    Richmond, Va

    I have the Midwest Engineering lever on my 640. Allows me to do one finger clutch pulls.
  10. skibum69

    skibum69 slave to gravity Super Supporter

    Joined:
    May 14, 2006
    Oddometer:
    11,992
    Location:
    New Melbourne, Newfoundland
    Both sides or only your clutch?
  11. Dolly Sod

    Dolly Sod I want to do right, but not right now

    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2003
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    Richmond, Va
    Clutch only. I don't think their brake lever adds anything over stock, but the clutch is a huge improvement.
    skibum69 likes this.
  12. dnrobertson

    dnrobertson Big Bike, Slow Rider

    Joined:
    Jun 30, 2008
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    1,385
    Location:
    Frankston, Australia
    I use the clutch as well. Big improvement for me as well.

    The front won't fit with out a lot of work. I now have a butchered MWE front lever in my spares box. :(
  13. Scaz0r

    Scaz0r Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2019
    Oddometer:
    61
    Location:
    Germany, Munich
    Well I will need to get one of those finally, then.
    I eyed it a couple of weeks ago but wanted to see if there's a possible problem that needed fixing prior to that.
  14. Dolly Sod

    Dolly Sod I want to do right, but not right now

    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2003
    Oddometer:
    18,873
    Location:
    Richmond, Va
    Did you buy the wrong lever? Mine fit with no modifications necessary. On mine, the signal control cluster sticks out too far, and I can't pull the lever all the way to the bar, so I had to adjust the clutch so that it is dragging just a bit with the lever all the way in. It makes finding neutral at idle pretty difficult.
  15. clintnz

    clintnz Trans-Global Chook Chaser

    Joined:
    May 17, 2004
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    Location:
    Rotoiti, North Is, New Zealand
    I got a pair off Aussie ebay a while back, seller 'Alloyworks' I had to drill & & tap a bigger thread for the thermoswitch (was plenty of meat in the bush to do that) otherwise they fitted up perfectly.

    Cheers
    Clint
  16. 2 SPOT

    2 SPOT bring the rape whistle

    Joined:
    Dec 14, 2005
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    6,468
    Location:
    Payson AZ
    the brake side adds alot of finesse over the front brake since those levers essentially double the pull stroke. on the single rotor bike no biggie, but on the dual rotor, its pretty nice.
  17. dnrobertson

    dnrobertson Big Bike, Slow Rider

    Joined:
    Jun 30, 2008
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    Frankston, Australia
    Sorry. My bad. Clutch fits fine.

    MWE Front brake lever doesn't fit.
  18. timeOday

    timeOday Long timer

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2008
    Oddometer:
    3,031
    Location:
    New Mexico
    Hey guys, the sprag bearing in my starter is beginning to slip. Looks like the RMATV price is $75 plus $50 for the hub it rides in. Do you generally replace both at the same time? Or could I skip the hub if it looks OK?
  19. twqqis

    twqqis Adventurer

    Joined:
    Sep 15, 2010
    Oddometer:
    86
    Location:
    Africa
    Finally! After a few setbacks I'm able to pick up work on the bike where I left it almost a year ago :(
    Will post some details soon, in the meantime here's what I'm working on at the moment. How often is it that you get to take apart 3 BSTs side by side?!

    BTW can you spot the odd one out? ;P

    [​IMG]
    repost after tapatalk used the wrong account
  20. AviatorTroy

    AviatorTroy Long timer

    Joined:
    Oct 15, 2007
    Oddometer:
    2,396
    Location:
    Castle Rock, CO
    Hi guys, I know I’m going to get dirt kicked on my shoes and generally dissed for going here, but going to ask anyway. Have a hole in my fleet in the dual sport area, and I’m looking at 3 bikes this week. The one in question is a 2000 LC4 enduro, looks to be in great shape cosmetically, 20,000 miles which I think is a lot, no maintenance records and the guy selling it had no idea what I was talking about when I asked about the output shaft bearing. And what’s up with not having a kickstand? Easy aftermarket remedy?

    Wouldn’t be my first KTM but would be my first LC4 engine. Specific things to look at?

    My heart says KTM but my brain says the DR650 or XR650!