Starting a new thread that better represents the range of projects we've done in the past and continue to work on. The two previous LC Garage threads, "Beezer Madness" and "Vintage Dirt Racing on a 350 Honda Twin", were supposed to be focused on either BSA Unit Singles or 350 Honda Twins, but frequently strayed elsewhere. This thread will still have Beezers and 350 twin's but will cover all of our motorcycle and minibike shenanigans and even the occasional 4 wheeled project references (as long as the mods don't mind). Links to previous threads; https://advrider.com/f/threads/vintage-dirt-racing-on-a-350-honda-twin.698196/ https://advrider.com/f/threads/beezer-madness.1155702/ Current project is a pretty beat down old '70 CL350 Scrambler one of my best buddies acquired on the cheap. He asked me to help get it running and I told him I would, as long as he didn't mind having it worked in as time allowed. We also talked about how perfect he wanted to make it, and he just wanted to clean it up and make ride-able, not restore it. In the pictures you'll still see some dirt and rust, this is after hours of cleaning and scrubbing. Once it's a runner and he takes it home, he said he'll continue the clean and shine process. Projects waiting in the wings are LadyBugs DR200 (it doesn't run), an SL175 to be completely gone thru both mechanically and cosmetically, our Gambler CT200U minibike, my daughters SL100, the never ending saga of BSA's and anything going on in the Outta Sight Team world (Note: Outta Sight is the race team started by Oregon Coast and originally brought together thru ADV and riding an SL350 provided by Ladybug). Another project I'm involved in (from a distance) is my brother's '70 Kawasaki 175 Bushwacker F3. Oh yeah, there's also the 1929 Ford Model AA tractor aka Doodlebug. Here is my buddy Scott with his scrambler, this was after we had pulled the seized forks apart and got them working again; Another picture of Scott with his ABG (Always Be Gamblin') 63 Mercury; Whoever had worked on the Scrambler in the past had taken the forks apart, lost a few pieces and then put them together in the wrong order. Once we had the forks dismantled and freed up, we put it back together just enough to keep it a roller while we ordered the missing pieces and worked on making it run. Pulled the carbs apart and started by soaking them in carb dip, then multiple sessions in the ultrasonic cleaner with simple green. In this picture, Scott's carbs (in the background) have already been cleaned and partially assembled and waiting for diaphragms while another set of carbs for a CB350 are getting the ultrasonic cleaner treatment. Scott stepped up for all new seals, gaskets, floats, jets and carb lids, while my friend with the CB350 carbs wanted to do it on the cheap. Mismatched carbs, beat up floats etcetera. Sigh; Another picture of the mismatched CB350 carbs, being put together with some questionable pieces, I did take a few of the better parts from the CL350 carbs and used on these; I'd successfully replaced diaphragms on a previous set of these CV carbs, but those replacement diaphragms had a thick rubber flange where the diaphragms Scott purchased were paper thin and tore when I tried to install them on the slides. A big thanks to TwinDuro who had a set of cherry used slides with diaphragms and donated to the cause. I'm sending the old slides and a new set of the paper thin diaphragms to TD, he's pretty crafty, maybe he'll have better luck installing them. Here are the finished CL350 carbs, ready to go on the bike; Carbs on bike with new throttle cables. All cables on this bike will be new; Started on the ignition yesterday, took apart and checked, cleaned and lubed advance, then carefully installed and timed points. At this point we've already changed the oil, set the valve clearance (.002 intake, .004 exhaust), adjusted the cam chain and replaced condensers. Timed by disconnecting the points to harness, using a self powered test light and then adjusting front points (LH) gap @ .014, rotating points plate until the LF mark on stator just passes the stationary mark and light goes out as points open. Points plate is then tightened. Rear (RH) points are timed by gap only. Set the gap at .014, checked with the self powered test light and they were spot on as the F mark on stator just passed the stationary mark. Scott cleaning up the exhaust, someone had put reflective tape on the tank, shocks and exhaust, he used the heat gun and plastic scraper to get rid of them; Next step will be fuel tank & hoses, battery, mounting the exhaust and getting it started.