I won't bore you with broken-brakes pictures. I will tell you that it's awful nice here. The temps today were just right for a t-shirt and jeans. For a while I wore a long-sleeved shirt because in the shade where the bike was getting fixed it was just a little cool. I only rode about five miles today, and half was in full gear, and it was just right to unzip the vents. Cool enough to keep the helmet lid down, warm enough to not sweat. The Guatemala BMW dealership is awesome. In the end they fabricated a new gasket and changed all the fluid. My job was to occasionally hold something or occasionally pump the brake lever five times. Markos is like a genius or something. Juan is super nice but I didn't see him again after he hit his big GS against the back of some old lady's car. I got to meet Karl, the owner's son (my age, educated in the US). I trust these guys. I showed up on a Friday afternoon. Another adventure rider was there- Wolfgang, of www.heidwolfonbiketour.de. Markos basically stopped everything to help us. He even stayed late on a Saturday (the shop closes at noon on Saturdays, but Markos stays until the job is done). They had a row of local bikes in various states of repair, and several other customers came in only to smile and wonder what Wolfgang and I could possibly be thinking. (Wolfgang got new TKCs, his Ohlins rear shock re-charged, his valves adjusted, and who-knows what else.) Wolfgang has 70 liter side cases on his 1996 R100PD. 70 liters. Yes, seventy liters. On each side. He might have a slightly different opinion of the workmanship. If you ever want to buy an absolutely perfectly maintained BMW- one owned by a regular perfectionist- buy Wolfgang's. He's not selling though. Oh, what a beautiful, beautiful travelling machine! I also met an American from Denver on a GS with no VIN. Silly boy! I still don't know how he managed to get into Guatemala. Neither does he. He had planned on riding to Ushuaia. Now he's stuck here for three weeks trying to get the vin-plate-thing sorted out. Ushuaia will have to wait for him. I can not imagine being stuck here for three weeks. I think this other American by this time has accumulated like ten Guatemalan wives. They follow him around and take turns scratching his vin-number back off. I've been here for two days and I can not wait to get back on the road, back on the way to Panama. Maybe Barb will explain how a car in front of her hit a dog that must have been already dead and sent it sailing into her lane... So Barb was on her way to the dealership this afternoon, and she couldn't find it. This is kind of a big town (like 2 million people) and she did a few laps around it. And then she heard someone say, "Barb!" She was way, way far away, and she had run into Wolfgang and Heidi! What a small world we adventure riders make, yes? Pictures in a little while.