As mentioned in the Kick-starting LC4 with dead battery? thread, after 7.5 years the OEM battery in my 2005 640 Adventure has finally carked it!... or so I thought. The OEM Yuasa YTZ10S although having performed well, is silly money here: $407 ex-freight from the cheapest place I could find. Odyssey is not much cheaper at $379 ex-freight, but probably a better buy. However, I have been brave and gone with a Shorai LFX14A4-BS12, delivered for $251. The NZ distributor has priced them competitively with private imports, preferring to take a modest profit rather than being bypassed, and is selling lots of them as a result. Herein is my installation process. My bike has not had the eletric leg for years, and lives on a Deltran Battery Tender regularly (not 100% of the time), thus the battery has not had a hard life. To recap the symptoms: I was out marshalling for our club 6 hour cross-country race the other Sunday. Turned the key on after a stop, and got nada. No neutral light, no instruments at all. Of course, it was right up the back of the course, so having to rescue a marshal would not be a good look. Eventually I realised I could try kicking it anyway. About halfway through the kick the instruments came on, and throughout the day discovered if it was a good 'un she'd fire up. And the problem with marshalling is that unlike racing, it is stop-start-stop-start-stop-start all day long. My left leg actually got tired from all the kick starts, first time that's happened! I did manage to bump-start it a few times, too. The spec sheet, for those who like to ride them: YTZ10S: 150 x 87 x 94 mm, 190 CCA, 8.6 AH, 3082g. LFX14A4: 147 x 87 x 89 mm, 210 CCA, 14 AH, 901g. On with the show! The original battery in situ, and original wire routing for reference when I put it all back together. Remove two 8mm AH screws and the whole regulator/rectifier and other wiring lifts completely clear of the battery. doG I love working on KTMs! Everything is designed to be worked on. One screw to remove the seat, two for the reg/rec, and the battery is there for the taking. The Shorai is slightly shorter and narrower. The height is taken care of by using one of the supplied foam pads, 5mm thick. The narrower width (3mm) is too slight to worry about: there is not much play, if any, when the battery is installed in the rubber buffer. There were two drainage holes in the rubber buffer, so I cut these out of the foam pad to match. Once installed, I turned on the key... nuthin'. :huh Check the power socket on the dash which feeds straight from the battery via a fuse, 0 Volts. Bugger. Check the battery terminals, 13.2V. Hmmm. Check the fuse box input from the battery (terminals are exposed on the underside), 0V. Ok, there's only 100mm of wire left to check! Yup, the main feed from the battery had broken at the battery terminal crimp shared with the starter feed. Pulling the rubber boot back to get to the terminal screw has finally and fully separated the wire. This, in intermittent failure mode, must have been why the bike had no power to the instruments. It must have been making and breaking with the vibrations or other movement when kick-starting the bike. Crimp on a new ring: and we are away! All back together, after several attempts to route the wires in the least-stress position. By default I like to put it back the way it was, as most of the time the OEM routing is good, but I do check for potential rub points and gentler bends. I haven't tested the starter cranking ability because I don't have the e-start clutch in the bike. But it is easier to kick start, and just seems to run a bit crisper in the bottom end (new battery vs old, not singing the praises of the Shorai particularly). The original battery was holding 12.8V at rest, so it was not completely dead, but it was not in great condition either. Anyway, I hope this guide eases the pain for someone doing a similar job.