LC4 Sprocket seal replacement...

Thanks Creeper...this kind of stuff is very valuable for those of us who are a bit nervous about working on our own machines...

I got two rules (not neccessarily in order)... never be afraid to jump right in, and never be afraid to stop and think about what your doing... before you regret it.

I'll add a third...one learned from experience--

Never start a job you've never done before when you have limited time, on the assumption that it a) Can't be that hard, b) You have all the necessary parts, and c) You have all the necessary tools. I can't tell you how many times I've found myself out in the garage, or in my workshop, at 1am trying to cobble together makeshift parts and using makeshift tools to finish a job I figured would only take me an hour or so...

thanks creeper, i was just banging my head on the search function (with no luck) trying to find the torque value for the counter-sprocket bolt (going 17t for the winter). i gave up and started to peruse the posts and whamo there you are being the accidental hero with the info i was seeking. 44 ft/lbs. i hope this isn't foreshadowing a leak when i pull the cover and start this swap. thanks again either way.
scott

Yep... 60Nm equals 44ft.lbs, rounded off. You got no engine torques listing in your manuals?

there are some but i couldn't find that one. i am half way done w/ the 17t install. i just came up to check if my locktite 246 would work instead of the 243. looks like it should. it's the hi temp medium hold vs the 243 oil resistant medium hold.
it looks like the 17t clearance will be ok, i was expecting to have to grind on something to make it fit. must be the plastic cover that is still waiting on the bench.
scott

I don't have nor have I installed a 17T, but it's my understanding that the contact is on the metal sprocket cover guide/support.
I believe the fix is A. Grind what you have. B. Buy a Duke one.

mine doesn't touch but it might have switched already by the PO sethro. i think i remember him saying he had a 17t on it at one point. i am not sure i like it better now w/ the 17t. it makes 1st more usable in my world and helps with the top end for my high speed commute but it make the bike feel a little dead, sluggish.
scott

Ah well, I don't really want all sorts of fancy gadget tools, but he did glaze over this prod...

Anyways, just about to get into this area of my bike (new sprockets/chain) and wondered if it would be something I would see just under the cover or if I will only know when I have the CS cover off... I would like this to be a one shot job if possible, so Iwouldn't mind being overly prepared, especially if the parts for this seal job are as cheap as they look.

If it's leaking, you can see it on the case just below the sprocket and down to the case VIN.

ok, I'll take a peak. I have time to assemble this stuff.

Any serious drawback to leaving the CS sprocket cover off? I can't think of one... I might take my time hacking it up a bit to make a po'man's Touratech bling bling CS sprocket cover.

No issues with that... but don't leave the sprocket itself off for an extended period. No clamp load on the O-ring via the spacer and it might just leak out past the O-ring.

I bored a hole in the center of my cover a long time ago so I could keep an eye on the nut.

I know it's been said before (I checked the LC4 Thread Index ), but DAMN you keep that bike clean Creeper! At first glance I thought I was looking at a factory brochure photograph!

I know you ride the thing, but how do you get it that clean? How much disassembly do you have to do to get at all the nooks and crannies?

Mine's fairly clean, but it'll never be "Creeper" clean.

I have "cleaning elves"... they work cheap.

Avert your eyes for the next one... you may go blind.

damn that's sexy. i'd almost say 'what about the rear quarters and tail but on second thought that might be overtkill. good job creeper; care to make a thread or post of your mutations?

On the road in 20... no more posties for awhile. Some might be relieved.

im sure relieved creep, you keep posting pics of your uber clean bike and i just get more depressed over my grubby one

but i pose an observation and a Q. on my ride yesturday during a break rest, i noticed a chain self oiling situation going on. so i pulled the cover and sure enough the offending juice was comming from the sproket seal. the bolt and sproket was loose, real loose, so i broke out some tools and tightened'er up. when i got to the next stop i double checked for tightness and noticed no more pukage from the offending part. so i am assuming the sproket butts against the seal to keep a seal yes? i am on my way out to the stable to tear it down and inspect further the condition of everything. i am guessing the seal is fine, but i'll get it all cleaned up and retorqued and we'll see after a short shakedown ride.

Ah, why?
Specifically, why is painting the washer a waste of time?

I ask this question for two reasons; one is my own (the creeper marks on my bolt/washer/sprocket don't stay lined up ). I was about to try some cleaner and reapply loctite. Wondering when I should get some new hardware...

The second reason is for another fella who has a question or two for you creeper:
here

The sprocket bolt has a shoulder or "step" on it that measures about .080", while the washer which fits over the shoulder, measures about .060" thick(all I have are used parts, so these numbers may vary).
The washer is dished, so when torqued the washer compresses, tries to flatten out... but as there is no real clamp load on it other than the tension applied by the dished shape being compressed... it tends to rotate a bit. This by the way is what holds your sprocket laterally on the shaft.

C

Interesting - is that so there is a tad bit o' play, perhaps so the components can give if there is a yank? No, not an American... If so, you said in the other thread that the shaft has a designed ~1/8" lateral play, then perhaps that play would be for similar reasons.

If the chain siezed or something else happened that put a sharp load on the CS sprocket it would be nice if it could be absorbed by the washer or the (what was it you said in the other thread...) bearings(?) before being transmitted into the bowels of the beast...

Of course that doesn't solve my problem. I will clean the fasteners, loctite, and reset them and watch the bolt and CS (ignore the washer slip?). Suppose while I am at it I will check the rear sprocket bolts to see if I set them well enough. Although checkin Loctite sucks 'cause you have to redo it.

BTW, I was over that pic of your bike above. Sure was purdy; perhaps to purdy for the egos of the gods...