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Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by MikeS, Feb 18, 2016.
Hey Mike, I'm sitting in my AC room in Xilitla finishing up reading your RR. Everyone here says hi!
Excellent Mike. Well done. I admire your adventurous spirit. It takes a special person to do a trip like this solo.
I've just re-read a lot of this. Hoping to visit Peru in September next year for a month or so. It looks like the best option for me would be renting rather buy-back, for just 5 or 6 weeks. Unless I want to head up into Ecuador (a possibility), or over to Bolivia for Tiwanaku (also a possibility but the Bolivian officials don't sound much fun!).
(I've now discounted taking my own bike).
When are you heading back there?
Thanks for the post. I'm booked to arrive last week of Feb, with 5 weeks in SA., returning to US in early March. I'm heading north to Ecuador this time, and maybe make it to Colombia, but unlikely Colombia. I'll return the moto to Huánuco again for storage. I am SO eager to get back south of the Darien Gap, although at this very moment I'm participating in a weekend of "motorcycle therapy" riding out of Eureka Springs, AR on my KL250. LOTS of dirt roads and up/down and fun riding here, plus not winter yet. Great place to ride a small cc dirt oriented moto.
If you want to cross borders in SA, you need to have title to your moto in your name. One option is to contact Toby at Around the Block Moto Tours and see what he can offer you. Another option: There is plenty to see without leaving Peru for 5/6 weeks, just in the north of Peru. After that there is still more: Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley, plus Colca Canyon to the south. The back roads and mountain passes are just awesome and not to be missed - although not everyone wants to get way out in the remote areas. Depends on how you want to travel. IMO, small moto is the way to go.
Cheers, Mike. I would love to have bikes positioned around the world for my personal use. It's good that you can do that in Peru. It really comes down to the duration/expense ratio, something I would need to work out.
I've seen a load of Inca sites already, but there are always more. I'm now especially interested in those pre-Inca coastal sites and some of those inland ones. Motorbike is the perfect way to visit them. I'm not hardcore - I'm just a tourist who prefers to travel by moto, and the places I like to visit are often along pretty bad dirt tracks.
Your man in Huanuco seems good value for rental compared with the guys in Quito (less than half the cost). Good luck with your next trip, and thanks.
I appreciate your comments and interest in my trip. I really enjoyed my time in Peru in many ways - Americas ancient culture, Peru/Latin America people, rural life, Andes mtns, dirt roads and adventure - like you I'm a tourist who enjoys seeing places by moto. I'm no hard core dirt rider at all, I just go places that sometimes have unexpected adventures. The light moto and packing light gives that freedom - or maybe foolish freedom. The real people are in the small towns, and because I live in a rural area, that's what I seek out. I know how to meet people in that environment, better than in a big city. I find I am well received on rural SA roads by someone herding horses or goats, or riding a small moto down the road as local transportation, or sitting at a food stand in a small town central plaza. My broken master link adventure only became an adventure after the solution was in hand. Having that perspective helped a whole lot - and I experienced some helpful and interesting people along the way.
I think you have a very good outlook as a tourist. Just get that flat tire fixing procedure down (LOL) - or not - so you too can ride in an overloaded potato truck with minimal brakes. I think you'll enjoy Peru and the pre-Inca cultures. You seem to have a curiosity that makes travel interesting. I hope you do a RR about your trip.
Do you recommend any must see ancient culture sites in Ecuador?
There is also moto rental in Lima. Not sure who at this moment, but I've seen them on the web. Flying inland out of Lima adds some time to your transit, and also adds about $100US to your transportation costs. Flying in to Lima, and riding out of town the next day on a moto has some advantages, both in terms of time and cost.
The Chinese motos Toby upgrades and rents look good, and for the reduced rental, I would not hesitate to rent one. Chinese motos are very common in Peru. My wife is planning to come with me in 2018, and we'll rent a Chinese moto for her. She won't ride pillion - she will only ride her own moto - totally good by me!
I see we only have 6 sites in Ecuador on the Megalithic Portal - http://www.megalithic.co.uk/search.php?query=&country=123 - and I only added Pumapungo recently when I read someone's ride report here.
Apparently there are some Inca roads around the place, but I haven't been able to track them down yet.
Catequilla is an intriguing site, being exactly on the equator.
Thanks for all your advice - I think I'm on for a good trip (and still tempted by Bolivia & Ecuador since, what the hell, I'm in the neighbourhood).
Una nueva aventure comienza ahora! (A new adventure starts)
Friday, Feb 24 Huánuco, Peru:
I'm back in Peru, in Huanuco at Toby and Sara's Around the Block Moto Adventures for another ride. This time my plan is to explore Ecuador. Getting me here was definitely an adventure, meaning lots of uncertainty and problems along the way. It started out when I woke up at 4AM to get to the Thunder Bay, Ontario airport for a 6:15AM departure. I stayed with some wonderful skiing and moto friends from Thunder Bay, Craig & Sara, who also helped with vehicle and airport transportation logistics. The Toronto airport was fogged in, the hub for eastern Canada. My departure was delayed multiple times, finally arriving in Toronto in the afternoon. Needless to say, I missed my connections, but I had alternative connections in hand. Between making sure baggage was re-tagged, revising my travel itinerary, having to obtain boarding passes at every transfer, and standing in long lines of passengers in similar situations to me as the time of departure neared; I'm here in Huanuco. My luggage with my riding gear did not make it here, so it is still on an adventure. As of this evening, it is in the hold of a plane from Atlanta, bound for Lima. I have no idea what happened. From my understanding of the tracking, it may have been in Lima, after I arrived in Huanuco. If I understand the tracking correctly, during this process, the luggage appears to have been sent back to Atlanta from Lima. I have my riding boots that I wore, plus a helmet that I left here from last year. I'm planning to borrow some gear and go for a ride tomorrow.
As far as this South America adventure is concerned, the time back home was simply a delay in the adventure. As a result, I decided to continue the report from last year instead of starting a new one.
The view of Huanuco from my room at Toby & Sara's B&B :
Looking forward to the continued adventure...
Looking forward to following your adventures.
Glad to see that you're back to your adventure Mike. I've been wondering when you would show up.
How many weeks are you planning this year? Are you using your inReach? Spotwalla?
Craig AKA Alonso
I love adventures! Look forward to your reports...
Mike - of course you know I'll be following this. I arrived home from Cancun yesterday (Friday) and experienced the aftermath of those delays you described in Toronto. We didn't get back to Thunder Bay until 4 AM this morning. Ugghh! Looking forward to reading about your adventures again.
My gear is arriving on Sunday, so packing day approaches. Time to leave on Monday.
Until then, food: Found some anticuchos, plus chicha morada to drink. Makes the waiting for and monitoring my stuff not so bad. Anticuchos also comes in chicken, but I had the beef heart today. Sooo tasty! Chicha is normally served room temperature, and delicious that way.
Hey Mike thanks for bringing this back around and keeping up with it so well last year. I found last seasons report to be a great balance between riding navigation, archeology, culture and your bike.
I wonder if you would share what goods you brought from home for the bike?
Good luck and be safe my friend. Angie and I are currently exploring southern Arizona 2up on the klr. We hope to sometime soon,(5 years?) start exploring central and south america. No doubt we will be looking to you for guidance and advice.
Yes, the bike probably deserves at least one new farkle/present each year.
One thing I learned so far is luggage monitoring, especially if flight problems develop. In retrospect, in the future I'll monitor my luggage as it moves along. The airlines scan the luggage tags, and that information is available on line. The other, and for me most important revision of my plans, would be to wait in Lima for my lost bags, instead of heading inland on a local carrier. I would have incurred expenses changing my flight with the Peru carrier, but I could have gone to the Lima airport and personally picked up my bags. By monitoring them personally, I can do a better job than the airlines. Even though I filled out the lost luggage form at the Lima airport, my bags were not grabbed when they arrived in Lima after me, and were sent back to Atlanta. For the follow up calls, it is helpful to have someone fluent in Spanish, of which Toby is. The hostal in Lima where I planned to stay also has a person fluent in English & of course Spanish.
As an edit: Went to the bus station. The bags are on the bus. However the bus is late because of landslides and won't be here until around 5pm. Monday departure is looking more doubtful. This is definitely frustrating, but I can do nothing other than patiently wait. The good part is that the bags and my gear are getting closer to me. Very soon I'll be on my way.
As far as moto farkles are concerned; I reattached my gps wired direct from the battery, and reinstalled the bungie to hold my sheepskin in place on the saddle. The moto has a custom built rack, fabricated at the shop in Huanuco, which is back on the moto. It has bark busters and bar risers already installed, plus new rubber, chain, & sprockets. An oil cooler was added, but other than those things, it's stock.
Coffee cup in hand. I'm in! Enjoy your adventure Mike. I'm just a little bit jealous. Make that a lot jealous!
Holy Crap! Two lurkers brought out!! I'm impressed !
Like them, I'll be following along.