Looking at a used LC4?

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by creeper, Nov 14, 2006.

  1. SRG

    SRG Long timer

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    Looks like the leak is at the sprocket. There are prone to failure seals there. They are not hard to replace. There should be a write up on changing them out in the LC4 specific sticky thread.
    #81
  2. CJBDRdude

    CJBDRdude Ridin'offroadCJ

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    607
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    Upstate NY.. rockin it in Valatie!!!
    Go for it! The LC4 is an addicting motorcycle:D
    #82
  3. Lotus1967

    Lotus1967 NorCalxPlant

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    San Rafael
    done.
    havent had much chance for riding cos of work logistics, but...

    so far...:clap
    #83
  4. FABrauer

    FABrauer 2013 KTM 990 SM-T & 2002 KTM 625 SXC

    Joined:
    Aug 11, 2014
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    Flower Mound, Texas
    I'm in the market for one of these KTMs if anyone has any leads on one. I'll pay fair market for the one in best shape. I'm not looking to score a hell of a deal but that would be OK. :evilAnything I own stays like new and parts get replaced way before that "maybe I should change it out now" issues come up. Needs to be street legal ready too. I'll go anywhere in the lower 48, hell, maybe even Alaska too!
    #84
  5. my6

    my6 Been here awhile

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    Houston,Texas

    PM sent:*sip*
    #85
  6. FlDog

    FlDog Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 27, 2016
    Oddometer:
    139
    Location:
    Florida
    A little late for advice, I already purchased this 2001 "Adventure"!
    (seller didn't know it was an enduro and at the time, neither did I!)

    Problems I found:

    Left fork seal seems to leak.. I'm still in denial!
    Probably needs brake pads all the way around.. (need to pull the pads to know for sure)
    Needs a rear tire
    Rear tail light doesn't work
    Exhaust header very loose.. (parts ordered)
    Rear mud guard cracked (one on order)
    Investigating loose rocker arms.. (I think an easy fix by pushing the shafts)
    Missing two bolts.. one for right rear side plate and one for the tool box.
    Tank decals in bad shape.. somehow managed to find in stock and ordered two (by accident) 2000 year sets.

    Other than that, appears to be well taken care of. Time will tell when I put some miles on it...



    KTM2.JPG
    #86
  7. r'elise me

    r'elise me Been here awhile Supporter

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    Venice CA
    Thread revival here. Read through this thread and it seems everyone likes the 640A. I'm looking to build up a RTW carb'd bike and it's a choice between a R80GSPD, 640A post 2003, a 690 Rally Replica (if i can afford) or even some of the more lowly air cooled ones like the XR650L or the DR650. I'll be riding mainly dirt. I don't want a boring bike, but I've ridden with guys who "have had em all" that ride the XR and DR as good or better than I ride my 690E. I'm not keen on taking my 690E RTW due to parts availability, FI/ECU being finicky and fuel range. By the time I get the tank and FI bullsh*t dialed in, it's basically a 640A weightwise and the turning radius is horrible and parts are a little hard to get sometimes. On the other hand, it's not that vibey and it is, hands-down, the most kick ars dirt handler of the aforementioned adv bikes. It's even good on road when loaded.

    The R80GSPD is top of the list due to reliability and simplicity, but I'd want to beef up the suspension (48mm forks, etc) and frame considerably. Also not thrilled about shaft drive failure potential in the middle of BF Egypt. So that may take a bit of R&D.

    It's going to take a couple years to sort out the bike and build it bomb proof. So I want to start with the right platform, tear it down and sort it all out. What do you think? Is the 640A the bike for me you think?
    #87
  8. clintnz

    clintnz Trans-Global Chook Chaser

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    If having a carb & good dirt handling are important criteria for you in an Adv tourer then a 640Adv is probably the best machine you'll find. Get a ride on one & see what you think, quite a different experience to an R80GS.

    I don't know much about EFI issues but parts availability should not be a deciding factor in choosing between Suzuki/Honda/KTM for a world travel bike. Outside North America & Europe virtually no dealer stocks any part for a DR650, XR650 or 640Adv, aside from brake pads & maybe filters if you're lucky. Here in NZ KTM often manage to get parts in from Austria quicker than the Japanese can send them from there.

    Cheers
    Clint
    #88
  9. dhally

    dhally Hammerhead Supporter

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    If you want to deal with an oil leak in Mongolia, the lc4 is your bike. Personally I would get a Jap bike and ride slower, "bombproof".
    #89
  10. timeOday

    timeOday Long timer

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    Jun 20, 2008
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    New Mexico
    My only concern would be the age of the bike. After getting my '03 640A three years ago, it's never left me stranded but has been a steady trickle of smaller issues, mechanical electrical and hydraulic, most of which I attribute to aging of plastic and rubber, and vibration. Leaking water pump, dripping countershaft, air getting in brake line, short circuit inside a turn signal housing, broken lead in the speedo pickup, hose weeping coolant... always a little list of stuff to do after a ride. Got to grease up the 10 bearings in the shock linkage sometime or other, and rebuild the carb internals...

    I think the performance and design of the 640A are ideal for your trip. If you do tear it down and replace all the seals and valve rocker bearings and ideally a new wiring harness, then I would say yes, refer to all the RTW reports from 2005 or so :)
    #90
  11. Grreatdog

    Grreatdog Long timer Supporter

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    The only two places mine leaked oil over many hard years were the countershaft seal and the rocker cover.

    Countershaft seal was fixed immediately because it only takes minutes. It is a common KTM issue on all three of my KTM's.

    The rocker cover I let seep for several years since it didn't hurt anything. It was cake to fix but did take three or four hours.

    My 640 was stone ax reliable. But, like timeOday said, it was starting to have a bunch of minor issues from age and abuse.

    I could have (and maybe should have) fixed them all in a day for a couple of hundred dollars. But I was too smitten with my 525.
    #91
  12. Shooter1

    Shooter1 Been here awhile

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    Kansas
    Been thinking about selling this one, '03 SXC 625. Kinda on the fence though.

    photo (3).JPG
    #92
  13. clintnz

    clintnz Trans-Global Chook Chaser

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    I dunno. My riding buddy's DR650 started leaking oil around the base gasket at around the same time my 640's rocker cover needed sealing. Seen plenty of fairly new japanese dual sports with leaky countershaft seals too. Interestingly I had to replace my countershaft seal at less than 10K km, did the oring & bush for good measure... it never leaked another drop from there until I rebuilt the motor at 95K km.

    Cheers
    Clint
    #93
  14. FABrauer

    FABrauer 2013 KTM 990 SM-T & 2002 KTM 625 SXC

    Joined:
    Aug 11, 2014
    Oddometer:
    20
    Location:
    Flower Mound, Texas
    Could you possibly take a photo or two for me of the battery and electronics under the seat. Mine is in disarray and have no idea where it's all to go. I might be missing one or two brackets maybe? I have no idea. Much Thanks.
    #94
  15. FABrauer

    FABrauer 2013 KTM 990 SM-T & 2002 KTM 625 SXC

    Joined:
    Aug 11, 2014
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    Location:
    Flower Mound, Texas
    I actually bought a 2002 KTM SXC 620 last year from a pawn shop that was asking $2500. I offered $1,000 and they quickly accepted it. The speedo only shows 4600 miles but who knows the actual mileage because when the speedo cable die? KTM does not even show having sold the SXC until 2003. This has caused me parts ordering issues. The VIN number calls it an Adventure model. It was striped of the turn signals and looked like it was owned by someone bent on not putting a red cent in it. Electric tape for handlebar grips. Poor soldering repair techniques that damaged connectors. I've done the transmission bearing upgrade and had the forks rebuilt with fresh oil. The kickstand kill switch has been disabled. I've replaced all the bearings and rebuilt the carb with an improvement kit. All I lack is to rebuild the brakes cylinders and calipers. Replaced all the cooling system hoses. Had to replace the rear brake hydraulic line due to exhaust melting a hole in it. I purchased a new speedometer cable but wondered if I should have ordered one of those digital aftermarket gauges by Trail Tech (Voyager). I'll be checking the clearances of the valves. I purchased new valve cover gaskets and the feeler gauge. The head mounted temp sensor was broken but still hanging by the internal wire. I purchased a new one but will be adding a custom guard to prevent future damage there. All I have left is to install new chain, sprockets, tires and tubes. It'll be a like new (and trustworthy) street legal bike when it's done. I installed LED turn signals with the necessary electrical resistance bits. I'll have less than $2,200 in it when all done. I would like to do some traveling with this bike when I beef up the subframe and mount a custom rear rack and side hard bag mounts. I only ride solo.

    Questions:

    1) Will a HID bulb work without melting the lens / housing or am I better to get a LED lamp. Has anyone done a custom headlight housing by ditching the stock and installing a universal headlight? I'm thinking of a three light BAJA style arrangement.

    2) Does anyone have a larger gas tank willing to part for sale for my bike? Or know where I can purchase one?

    3) Where can I buy electrical connectors to replaced the damaged ones. Electrical component outlets? Maybe upgrade to better rubber sealed waterproof car style connectors? These are white and square and located under the seat. I have soldering ability and also know how to extract the wires from the connectors to do the solder work away from the connectors. How do I figure what gauge wire has been used when I want to replace a section with equal gauge?

    4) I weld (own my own TIG, gas, MIG and plasma cutter) and have access to a machinist who will be fabbing up my new subframe. Any advice is welcome. Thinking of fabbing up a triple BAJA lights light bar. Any considerations in powering the lights with the output available on my bike? Any upgrades available for additional electrical juice?

    5) I have one wire that is has a rubber insulated nipple button on the end that is obviously to be mounted on the handlebars but cannot figure what it's for. Apparently, the actual switch button housing is missing and when I press it while the bike's ignition is on (but motor not running) nothing visibly happens. Maybe when it's running I'll figure it out. I don't want to fill it up with oil until I'm ready to ride it. The switch has two nubs that looks to connect and lock into place. I can't figure out what it is for. I have checked all the current switches at both ends of the handlebars and all is accounted for.

    I have a 2013 KTM 990 SM-T but I like the idea of gearing up to a off road location, dumping my gear at my campsite and then heading out into the wilderness for all out wheelies and jumps even though I'll still be packing my photo and video gear.

    Owning a LC4 & LC8, the perfect pair!

    I'm open to any advice or leads.

    Glad to be here!





    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    #95
  16. gunnerbuck

    gunnerbuck Island Hopper

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    We didn't have to go to Mongolia to deal with an oil leak, on one of our expeditions into back country B.C. the DR 650 along with us blew it's oil seal and quickly emptied the engine oil out all over the riders pants... We had to bodge fix it and use up the groups oil reserves to get that bike to a town big enough as to where he could order parts from an auto supply place... We ended up having to leave the rider behind where he waited 4 days for parts, and then 1 day after he had it fixed the seal blew out again leaving him stranded for another couple days... He ended up driving a larger XR 650 seal in place and that got him home.. The 2 Moto Kiwis experienced so many problems with there bikes {DR 650s}, oil leaks included, that they ended up giving up on them and purchased a 950 Super Enduro to complete their tour of the Americas... The guys from Vancouver doing the world tour on their WR 250's had an engine crater at 30,000 KM.. Many other stories along these lines to point out that Japanese bikes are not immune to problems or oil leaks..


    For the most part, what causes the counter shaft seal to leak on the 640 is from people running the chain too tight... I see this all the time and often inform the rider that a little slack should be added... I also see 640s that have come from a dealer service with their chains way too tight... What happens is when the suspension compresses it loads tension onto the chain which then pulls back the sprocket putting pressure on the back side of the counter shaft bushing which then shags the o-ring.. The good part is the $2 o-ring is quick and easy to replace while running more slack on the chain is the long term fix...

    KTM uses the same counter shaft design on all their bikes and it is brilliant.. On a Japanese bike the seal rubs directly on the counter shaft where it comes through the case and over time the seal will cut a groove in the shaft... Eventually the groove will become so deep that a replacement seal will no longer reliably seal in the oil and the whole shaft must be replaced... Ktm uses a small bushing that takes the wear from the seal and once grooved you just toss the bushing and replace it with a $15 new one, quick fix, and no need to split the case...

    You must of had a lot of issues with your particular LC 4 as you do not have much positive to say about the machine... I had most of the problems with my bike in the early days of ownership, but after sticking with it, learning it and making a bit of adjustment have found that the 640 is one of the most reliable bikes out there...
    The first and best mod is to swap out the stock restrictive muffler, this is the biggest reliability killer on the bike as it causes engine stress... It bottles up heat in the combustion chamber which leads to shorter valve and top end component life... By changing to a more free flowing system my valve life intervals more than doubled, going from 40,000 km to more than 85,000 as found in my most recent service.. Another bonus that comes with swapping to a more free flowing muffler is that there is a noticeable drop in vibration levels ...

    Another note able thing is with the BST 40 carb some parts tend to wear, so carrying spare slide , emulsion tube and needle parts on a long trip are not a bad idea... The good thing is that these parts can be changed without removing the carb from the bike...
    #96
  17. Bluetonguejak

    Bluetonguejak Pretend racer

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    #97
  18. clintnz

    clintnz Trans-Global Chook Chaser

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    Not sure on the specifics of the 620 SXC but if you have some fabrication capability have a look at the homebrew headlight setup I made for my 640E

    In terms of electrical capacity have a look at some parts fiches & see if you can work out which stator you have. If it is the later model Kokusan 4K2 one you have about 200W to play with, minus a bit to run the ignition IIRC.

    Cheers
    Clint
    #98
  19. Grreatdog

    Grreatdog Long timer Supporter

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    If that SXC has the old school rectangular lens then stick a Cyclops or similar LED in it before trying anything fancy. You might be surprised at how well those rectangular reflectors work with an LED. Especially since you can aim those.

    Plus the stock mask does a good good keeping some wind off your chest at speed. I always liked that old school mask on 640E for that reason. So I wouldn't be in a hurry to throw money at that aspect of the bike.

    Remember, with an SXC, if you swap the tank for one of the Enduro tanks you also need the seat that goes with it. At least you do with the "normal" SXC's. Some weird in between year between a 620 and a 625 might be different.
    #99
  20. Marshy

    Marshy Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2017
    Oddometer:
    100
    Location:
    Mexico NY
    Hi guys, Im researching the SXC line of bikes as I'm considering buying a 2003 SXC 625. This thread has been helpful but Im left wanting to know more about the trans bearing failure mentioned earlier in this thread. Is there a link someone can share with more info and do you know if the 2003 625's were/are prone to the failure? The bike has 5K miles on it and was told he's the second owner. I don't want to buy a ticking time bomb. Opinions? I'll keep digging with the search button. Thanks