Lost in Northern Thailand - Real Time Report

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Lost Cartographer, Nov 15, 2019.

  1. The Bigfella

    The Bigfella Big Adventurer

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    I can't comment about the food. We did a 200km scooter ride yesterday - 18 scooters - and I had some sort of local sausage for lunch. Thank Dog for Dr Imodium. The scooter ride was an absolute ball-tearer around some back roads - to the extent that I really can't post much of the footage. We had grins from ear to ear last night.

    I'm loving your photos btw. Keep 'em coming.

    I had a couple more 500 Hondas up at Mae Hong Son last night. Two Belgian couples... went up yesterday, back today. "Best ride I've ever done".... and then he added "but we needed more days"
    #41
  2. Lost Cartographer

    Lost Cartographer Been here awhile

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    (real time)

    Good morning from Mae Salong

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    Attached Files:

    #42
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  3. markinthailand

    markinthailand Long timer

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    Location:
    Chiang Mai, Northern Thailand
    Don't miss the Yunnanese noodles and pot stickers!!!
    #43
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  4. Lost Cartographer

    Lost Cartographer Been here awhile

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    Day 4 - Mae Hong Song to Monsaengjun Homestay

    Another $1.30 breakfast before hitting the road. Sorry about the poor photo:

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    1st stop- Bamboo Bridge outside of MHS:

    https://www.thailand-expert.com/su-tong-pae-bamboo-bridge-mae-hong-son/

    The bridge goes over some rice paddys (paddies?) to a cool Wat on a hill:

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    Moo:

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    Moo owner:

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    Field trip?

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    Seems like all we do here is feed the damn dog:

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    Attached Files:

    #44
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  5. yokesman

    yokesman Long timer

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    I can eat Thai meatball noodle soup three times a day , and did my last tour in utapau- Ban Chang.
    #45
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  6. Lost Cartographer

    Lost Cartographer Been here awhile

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    Day 4 contd:

    No cage can contain me. Except this one.

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    Under construction:

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    I had no idea that termites were fluent writers in Thai:

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    The old bridge:

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    ...for amber waves of grain.... uhhh rice:

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    Yet another well behaved dog:

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    Attached Files:

    #46
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  7. Lost Cartographer

    Lost Cartographer Been here awhile

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    Hit the road and headed towards Pai. The road was brilliant, as were the views:

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    Random town along the route:

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    I wasn't expecting to see so much corn cultivation in Thailand, but it is everywhere in this region:

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    Check out the basket on the back of the scooter.

    I think the red paint is a high-grip texture that they apply on steep twisty switchbacks - locals is this correct?

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    Made it to Pai and had lunch in a roadside restaurant:

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    Pai has the thing I hate most about traveling-- ill behaved westerners. I have no idea why there are so many westerners in Pai, but I couldn't wait to leave.

    Reminded me of the south park drum circle episode:

    Attached Files:

    #47
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  8. Burro driver

    Burro driver dba John

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    I was in Pai last May. Full of filthy westerners. The restaurants were on the lame side too. Dont understand why the "cool kids" seem to flock there
    #48
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  9. Lost Cartographer

    Lost Cartographer Been here awhile

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    A real adv bike:

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    Attached Files:

    #49
  10. Gestalt

    Gestalt Been here awhile

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    They did make Honda step-through trails type 110cc and then a 125cc in Thailand a few years ago and they were pretty good, surprisingly good. I am a little sorry they stopped making them, one would have made a great addition to my Thailand bikes. Someones given that above a go however.
    #50
  11. The Bigfella

    The Bigfella Big Adventurer

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    Mate - I'm loving your photos and ride report. Keep it up....

    Honda has shown a 150 ADV scooter here and there's talk of a 300 version. When you get out in the back blocks, you see a lot of Honda Waves with the plastic bits removed. Those damn things go anywhere. I've been stranded with a drowned KTM and three locals go past on Waves. Grrrr.....

    Re the red surface on the road - indicates dangerous bends and would seem to be a bit stickier.... although the standard "joke" is that it's so the blood won't show on the dangerous corners. Here's that same corner about 6 weeks ago. We caught the edge of a storm... and being Thailand, we didn't bother stopping to don wet weather gear. We got 5km of wet road. I didn't have any worries on this particular bend, but my knobby tyres didn't like the wet - and let me know it.

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    #51
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  12. khpossum

    khpossum poster

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    I am going to be in Northern Thailand Jan/Feb. I try to avoid places like you describe Pai, but that is not always easy. How would you rate Chiang Mai in that regard. I know it is a busy tourist town, but is it bearable or way out of control.

    kp
    #52
  13. Cro59

    Cro59 Been here awhile

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    I may see you there if you hang around Rider's Corner (definitely rent your bike from @The Bigfella ). Should be there the first two weeks of February.

    Chiang Mai has a good blend of tourism and native, you can get as much of either as you want, and it is a good place to get your feet wet in SE Asia. When I went through Pai last January, I didn't bother to stop, figuring that my bags were more likely to be stolen by the backpacker crowd than by any of the Thais in the other towns and cities I visited. Chiang Mai is a totally different vibe and is big enough to absorb the Western residents and visitors.
    #53
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  14. Lost Cartographer

    Lost Cartographer Been here awhile

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    From Pai I made a couple of short stops:

    The Pai Land Split

    https://mychiangmaitour.com/land-split/

    Basically it was just a hill that separated over the course of a few earthquakes. I'm kind of a geology nerd, so I couldn't resist.

    (If you're into this stuff as well here's a ride along the lesser traveled sections of the San Andreas Fault:

    https://advrider.com/f/threads/its-...andreas-fault-mitchb-wafer-adventure.1388591/ )

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    Bonus - they were doing (what I assume to be) wedding photography there:

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    Got shoes?

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    The business model for the Land Split is a good one - entrance is free, just leave a donation on your way out.

    I donated a 20, which made them quite happy so they gave me a banana:

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    Attached Files:

    #54
  15. Lost Cartographer

    Lost Cartographer Been here awhile

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    Next stop- The Bridge over the River Pai

    Turns out there were a lot of rivers to cross if you are trying to invade Burma. You've heard of the one over the Kwai river (which is located here:
    https://goo.gl/maps/sVGNARGRSUWf87mq7 )

    This one is/was built over the river Pai. Same same:

    https://www.thaizer.com/tourist-attractions/pai-memorial-bridge/

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    A few minutes later I was on the road heading east. Instead of dropping south back to Chiang Mai, I booked a room in a homestay in a farming valley.

    On the way there I stopped at the "Sticky Waterfall"

    It's Moab style slickrock, but covered in water. And since this is Thailand, you are free to hike up the waterfall. I took off my riding boots, pulled up my pants, and scrambled up the waterfall. It was great fun:

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    They even have ropes in the steep spots:

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    Attached Files:

    #55
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  16. nzedjared

    nzedjared Adventurer

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    Where did you stay that first night in Chang Mai? Looks like a good place.
    Enjoying your report...and you are getting me stoked for my ride out of Chang Mai starting the 5th of December! There are a few places you’ve hit that I plan on checking out.
    #56
  17. Lost Cartographer

    Lost Cartographer Been here awhile

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    More waterfall:

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    I have no idea what this says, but I'll figure out how to get google translate to do its magic:

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    .

    Attached Files:

    #57
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  18. Lost Cartographer

    Lost Cartographer Been here awhile

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    1st night in CM:

    Screenshot_20191124-120354.jpg

    Last night in CM:

    Screenshot_20191124-120501.jpg


    Both places are quiet.

    Sri Ngachang is really nice little boutique. It's in a residential neighborhood, away from the tourist stuff.

    P21 is nice too, but it's just a hotel. It is closer to more bars and restaurants, and the breakfast was better.

    Bring your international drivers license, there are checkpoints around town.
    #58
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  19. motofshr

    motofshr Adventurer

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    Thoroughly enjoyed your report, love the great pictures & kudos for the google review on the tea lady... Reading this took me back to my time enjoying the loop.... also made the side trip Ban Rak Thai, ended up spending the night at Pang Oung, (a national park) about 13km to the southeast. Pavement takes you thru a stand of pines on the way to a small reservoir that has camping sites and bungalows (my avatar is the rented 650V-Strom at our romantic bungalow... my gal was co-pilot), that evening for dinner, a complete hot pot meal was delivered to our door, glowing charcoal and all.... washed down with SangSom and soda....
    Kicking back after the fully-loaded two-up ride on the steep mountain switchbacks... it was an evening I'll never forget.
    Thanks for taking the time to put this report together....safe travels
    #59
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  20. Lost Cartographer

    Lost Cartographer Been here awhile

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    Geared back up and headed towards the homestay.

    Saw a pretty big monkey cross the road, it didn't stick around for photos.


    Sunset photos:

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    Stopped at a tiny grocery store and bought some water and snacks for tomorrow:

    (it was dark, sorry about the motion blur)
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    Lodging that night was at the Monsaeng Jun Homestay. I'm not sure if the town name is Monsaeng Jun or if that is the family name. Doesn't really matter, you won't have a problem finding it becuase it is the only lodging in town.

    The place was brilliant - it was this luxury cottage on stilts right up against the jungle. The place was well built, the windows had screens that were installed properly and there were no mosquitos inside, Outside was another story. Who knew the jungle had so many bugs.

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    Living like a colonial:

    (again sorry about the motion blur)
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    The hostess made dinner for me. I enjoyed eating dinner while drinking a beer. The mosquitoes enjoyed drinking my blood. The hostess and her family did not appear to be getting bitten at all, but the mosquitoes were devouring me. I think I need to eat spicier food.

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    Awesome wifi sign:

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    Attached Files:

    #60
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