Lube that shaft!

Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by Reester, Jun 24, 2013.

  1. Reester

    Reester Two Wheels Move The Soul

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    Hi guys, first real post so ill make it quick and painless.

    I own a 2007 BMW R1200 GSA with 85,000kms (53,000miles) on the clock. It a great bike, my 5th GS, and no problems so far. Yes, no problems at all, its running great. The only things changed on it so far was input and output shaft seals.

    In the interests of preventative maintenance, i decided to pull my shaft this weekend. The bike's shaft.

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/95047734@N04/9121294626/" title="2007 BMW R12GSA Driveshaft Lube by Reesmeister, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3788/9121294626_0c5fb73e89.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="2007 BMW R12GSA Driveshaft Lube"></a>

    Looking good, no water ingress, no rust or dust to speak of.

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/95047734@N04/9121335502/" title="2007 BMW R12GSA Driveshaft Lube by Reesmeister, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2827/9121335502_e122e93590.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="2007 BMW R12GSA Driveshaft Lube"></a>

    Now i believe that the main reason for shaft failures would be mileage and of course, adverse factors like water, heat, etc. Apparently once it starts to 'bleed' red dust, you are fecked. Mine is ok, showing only some marginal grease seeping through, so i got myself some Moly, and got to work. I bought some insulin syringes - you can get a few for a dollar.

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/95047734@N04/9119096909/" title="2007 BMW R12GSA Driveshaft Lube by Reesmeister, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2858/9119096909_c5d3abe518.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="2007 BMW R12GSA Driveshaft Lube"></a>

    I then got another, slightly larger syringe, and filled it up. Dont try to 'suck' up the grease through the needle, you will be there the whole day.

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/95047734@N04/9121346366/" title="2007 BMW R12GSA Driveshaft Lube by Reesmeister, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2850/9121346366_56bbb5c72d.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="2007 BMW R12GSA Driveshaft Lube"></a>

    You then need to check if the needle works...

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/95047734@N04/9119124471/" title="2007 BMW R12GSA Driveshaft Lube by Reesmeister, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3791/9119124471_f6ba7baf47.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="2007 BMW R12GSA Driveshaft Lube"></a>

    Right, you are now in business. Time to pretty up that shaft with some much needed lube!

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/95047734@N04/9121369992/" title="2007 BMW R12GSA Driveshaft Lube by Reesmeister, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5477/9121369992_91676a3472.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="2007 BMW R12GSA Driveshaft Lube"></a>

    What may not be obvious from the surgery in progress is:

    A - You do not pierce the rubber seal. The syringe needle is strong enough to go straight in between the seal and center piece of the bearing, and you then twist the needle to guide its sharp end parallel to needle roller. You can slighly wiggle the bearing to guide the needle inbetween two needles of the bearing. Slowly inject grease until it comes back out between the seals. Do this for 3, 6, 9, and 12 o'clock across each of the 4 joints.

    B - you need a set of pliers to apply pressure to the syringe - it was not made to push thick grease through that needle, so plenty pressure is needed to get it out.

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/95047734@N04/9119145033/" title="2007 BMW R12GSA Driveshaft Lube by Reesmeister, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7411/9119145033_f9d4126035.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="2007 BMW R12GSA Driveshaft Lube"></a>

    Job done!

    At the very least you will have some piece of mind that your bearing (UJ's) has enough lube to do their job..:clap

    Rees
    #1
  2. AviatorTroy

    AviatorTroy Following my front fender

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    Dude, that is a great idea!
    #2
  3. def

    def Ginger th wonder dog

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    Heretofore, maintenance of the GS driveshaft has been limited to cleaning the splines and restoring new grease (most use Honda Molypaste 60) to these splines. So, this is a new idea on driveshaft maintenance. Since the OE U-joints are non-serviceable, the technique described herein may have considerable merit.

    Now, it will be very interesting to see the needle bearings and the crosses once the bearings are worn to the point of needing replacing.

    My only question here is, do the bearings false brinell to the point where they cause vibration and signal potential failure? And if so, does this greasing technique extend the life of the U-joints?
    #3
  4. yzedf

    yzedf Adventurer

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    Vibration = Failed
    #4
  5. Monsignore

    Monsignore Plunger Boy Supporter

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    Question about that vibration:

    Is it a "I'm riding on cobblestones" feeling, or more of a subtle extra-buzziness you feel?

    I think I might be feeling a little extra something in the footpegs, but it might also be ADV-induced paranoia. (Bike is '05 R12GS, 61,xxx mi).
    #5
  6. Bill-66

    Bill-66 I don't even know... Supporter

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    Buzzing..and you are a helluva candidate..(year and mileage)

    with bike on centerstand..roll rear tire thru a few revolutions..if you feel TWO distinct "harder" places..your upper u joint is toast..you may also be able to feel (hear) it, if pushing your bike in the garage or sidewalk..mine certainly stood out..
    #6
  7. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    Nice tutorial.:deal

    Two questions:

    1. Why Molly? Is Moly good for that kind of bearings? I really am interested since I have never seen it used that way.

    2. Why didn't you pull the shaft and do the top since you had the FD dropped? The upper bearings seem to be the ones that let go more often, or at least as often.

    Jim :brow
    #7
  8. mtrdrms

    mtrdrms Been here awhile

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    Just pulled my driveshaft and its not loose at all but there is a small bit of resistance at certain spot in its rotation. Is this a viable option? New driveshaft is not an option:deal
    #8
  9. Bill-66

    Bill-66 I don't even know... Supporter

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    In it's rotation...??? If you attempt to rotate the yolk back and forth, until it limits to the shaft..and you feel a hard spot..your ujoint is already done, there is no saving it..

    Your choices; Bruno, BMW (new), rebuild yourself...

    Sorry..hard truth..how many miles?

    On my second..now at 75,000 +, I'm prepared to go down this road again..I have my old one at the machine shop now...

    To fix this permanently..I think you install a Super Tenere..
    #9
  10. mtrdrms

    mtrdrms Been here awhile

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    Haha! Love those teneres. But yes it has a hard spot in one direction. It's the joint closest to the final drive. Oh well. Just turned 60k and hasn't given me any problems. BMW doesn't sell just the joint, where did u get yours?
    #10
  11. Reester

    Reester Two Wheels Move The Soul

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    Hi Jim, tx for checking in and apologies for my late reply.

    1. To be honest I bought the moly for the splines and thought why not? Any grease is better than none, and this stuff was rated highly by most everyone. This may sound strange but even if a bearing would be close to failure, which mine is not, at least it might allow me to limp home, being slippery stuff...since most bearings fail due to being dry.

    2. I did pull the shaft and did 32 injections in total - 16 each side. 4 per bearing.

    I am not a mechanic by any means but sincerely believe in preventative maintenance (unlike my dad who said if it ain't broke...)

    Cheers
    #11
  12. Reester

    Reester Two Wheels Move The Soul

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    Tx mate, time will tell. I did buy 4 (yes 4) new UJ's from the UK, just in case, but mine are smooth, so I doubt I'll need them...
    #12
  13. Reester

    Reester Two Wheels Move The Soul

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    PM me and I will give you the company in the UK who supplies the good quality UJ's that fit the BMW shafts, with grease nipple...
    #13
  14. Reester

    Reester Two Wheels Move The Soul

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    Jim, I did actually do a lot of research on different types of moly and its usability on UJ's before i attempted this.
    1. Bruno, legendary driveshaft rebuilder, seems to be recommending a moly based grease for UJ's.
    2. 'Moly', or molybdenum di-sulfide is a 'dry lubricant' additive, not really a kind of grease. When metal to metal contact happens due to high loads, the moly lubricates and takes the wear - at least up to a point.
    3. It is particularly recommended for applications where movement is slow, restricted or intermittent and where movement is small but of high frequency. In these applications the solid film of molybdenum disulphide will provide protection against wear, fretting corrosion and stick-slip effects. It is also recommended for high temperature conditions, because even though the grease chars or evaporates, the molybdenum disulphide is left behind to provide lubrication.

    Rees
    #14
  15. Bill-66

    Bill-66 I don't even know... Supporter

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    Got my joints at Driveline Service, they're a nation wide chain.

    To be completely honest, in hindsight, I would have sent to Bruno..after a LOT of places saying they could do the work, no problem..the reality is, after seeing it, no one wants to attempt it. But, I had the joints so I went thru with it..If I had sent to Bruno, even with shipping and customs, I'd have it back now.
    #15
  16. ricohman

    ricohman Long timer

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    Here is a dumb question.
    Why couldn't I press the joint out and replace it? I've done a million "non service" shafts in vehicles this way?
    Is the ujoint not available?
    #16
  17. Bill-66

    Bill-66 I don't even know... Supporter

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    Jeebus fackin' cripes...

    You're kidding right?? Have you read a single post above yours? Yes you can..it's what we have been discussing..here and in the other 5 threads about this. The joint is easy...getting the old one out..well it's staked not held with nylon...then, how do you hold the new one in?

    Lurk more..post less..mmkay..

    :freaky
    #17
  18. ricohman

    ricohman Long timer

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    I'd like to machine a groove for a full circle clip.
    Duh........
    #18
  19. Bill-66

    Bill-66 I don't even know... Supporter

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    Duh...been done...search all the threads...ff's...again....read all the threads...

    There is very little meat..but it works..most tig weld a washer over cap, once the joint is centered..

    I searched, unsuccesfully, for an internal clip joint..which then, would be simple to face the inside of yoke and shaft..
    #19
  20. ricohman

    ricohman Long timer

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    I'd do the full clip on the outside. Not that tacking a washer or the cap itself wouldn't work as that's been done for decades in the off-road world.
    I've never had mine apart, yet. But I think I may buy a used shaft to piss around with.
    #20