Me & Mrs Trip we got a thing going on

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Rhode trip, Dec 28, 2014.

  1. Rhode trip

    Rhode trip guided by voices Supporter

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    Thursday, January 18th.

    Mrs Trip had a little lamb... it's fleece was white as snow....

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    I don't know where he came from, but the little lamb came around from the back of the hotel, and pretty much attached himself to Mrs Trip as we loaded our bikes.
    Just about when I figured it would be impossible to pack any more cuteness into a single photograph...

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    The little puppy came bounding up all full of tricks and yelps and vying for some attention. Once he got some petting and some licks in, he chased the little lamb back from where they came....
    We hopped on our bikes and rode them down the precipitous walkway, and then down Highway 1. We stopped in a Mercado for some water, and a breakfast of some sticky buns.

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    That's the town of San Telmo de Abajo...

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    ...and once we filled our gas tanks and our hydration packs and our stomachs with the sugary pastry, we turned off the paved highway, heading for the ocean... That's the Pacific Ocean, ...with a capital "P"

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    It was misty when we reached the shore. Guys were working, down on the beach....collecting rocks, sorting them into giant bags...

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    by size, by color.... millions of smooth tumbled rocks were heaped along the waterline. Bags were lined up... waiting to transfer them for building materials.

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    seabirds circled overhead, and congregated on the rocky strand

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    There's a church out there... but no houses around.

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    We turned south behind the shore... the first way I went dead-ended where a channel came in from the sea. I put a foot down...slipped...almost fell. Greasy mud surrounded me. I yelled to Mrs Trip, "Stay Back!!"

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    I'd managed to ride quite a ways into the mudflat before realizing where I was. Just walking was tough. I was able to turn the bike around and dog paddled a surprisingly long ways before I reached solid ground. I scraped off as much mud as I could....

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    We backtracked and I found the road for Quattro Casas, that led us through the low marshy area that snaked down to the shore. Rode up onto the shore road, heading south.

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    The road rambled over some dry washes as it climbed up higher above the shore.

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    A couple of tracks ran parallel... we'd switch back and forth.... looking for the better surface and the fewest ruts....

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    It wasn't that bad. In fact, it was a blast!
    We followed these tracks for a long time... the ocean off to our left, the shoreline out of sight below the steep bluffs. I stuck another steeker to mark our passage....

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    Finally the straightaway took a couple of twists, and climbed a bit to pass through an area with some houses and a sandy beach.

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    One road headed west. We continued to the south, along the sea.

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    The road ran straight above the shoreline. But every once in a while, an arroyo cut across it. There used to be stone bridges, but they'd been destroyed some time before.

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    These added a little excitement to the ride....

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    They'd be easy to miss, and ride right into...

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    The road moved closer to the sandy cliffs that stood against the sea.

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    The waves pounded the rocky shoreline, and rolled with a sizzle up to the cliffs....

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    We followed this spectacular vista for miles, admiring the view and watching for the washouts....steep drops into and out of them...

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    When we reached Bahia Camalu the road turned east, away from the water.

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    Into the town of Camalu, and south on highway 1. We stopped for lunch at a roadside stand and had a couple of tacos and a coke.
    Then we cut down a side street at the south end of town....

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    through a quiet neighborhood, and out to a smooth, wide beach....

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    There's no road here, but the damp sand is smooth and firm....

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    It was awesome. We rode along the shore for miles, the waves breaking and running up to us across the sand. Patches of mist and moments of bright sun....

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    We had the world to ourselves.....

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    Eventually, we reached a place where a sandy track led up a steep dune. It seemed like the place. I don't have pictures, but rode the bikes and paddled with my feet, and Mrs trip pushed behind. Panting and sweating, I reached the top, then slid down the other side in an avalanche of sand. There was a firm road beyond. We got both bikes over...payback for the delight of our ride on the beach. Its quintessential Mexico... there was a couple of guys on the beach nearby, in about a '98 Nissan Sentra. There were tire tracks in the sandy dune. How they got over it, I'll never know. How they got back.....I can't imagine.

    We came out in San Quintin, and turned south on Highway 1. I was looking for the Hotel Jardines Baja. Thanks to Tillie Jaques and Big Sprocket for the great ride report "Breaking Baja".
    I took notes when I read it, once I realized these folks know how to live. I had the hotels they used listed in a little notebook...and I never would have found this one without them. And what a nice place it was!

    Ride in between the palms.....

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    Mrs Trip loves a garden... we walked around the grounds....

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    It's very lush for Baja.

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    ...cool, with lots of birds chirping in the trees....

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    There was a very good restaurant on the grounds, surprisingly busy with locals and guests both out for dinner....

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    Another day wound down to a quiet evening.

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  2. liv2day

    liv2day Life is about how you handle Plan B Supporter

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    Outstanding! That ride on the sand looked fun as hell, so cool you were able to get down and do that. The hotel looks really nice, another excellent update :thumb
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  3. Rhode trip

    Rhode trip guided by voices Supporter

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    Thanks, liv2day! Glad you are enjoying the ride!
  4. tilliejacques

    tilliejacques gnarly girl Super Supporter

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    Big Sprocket knows the best places in Baja! :nod :beer

    My reports tend to be food reports with riding thrown in. :lol3 :dukegirl

    (Be aware that the restaurant next door is closed on Mondays, and not open for breakfast)
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  5. Rhode trip

    Rhode trip guided by voices Supporter

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    Hi Tillie,
    I had two key sources of information for this trip.... I managed to get a 2009 edition Baja Almanac.... unobtanium these days... which proved to be wildly inaccurate.
    And the Pocket Big Sprocket Guide to Baja... which was 99% accurate. (The El Burro restaurant in San Juanico apparently burned down).

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    I'm loving your ride reports.... not only is the riding great... the photos are mouthwatering!
    PS. The restaurant at El Jardines was indeed closed for breakfast. I followed the Sprocket guide and we hit a Baja icon for breakfast instead!
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  6. docwyte

    docwyte Long timer

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    I've got that Baja Almanac too. Are all the roads detailed in it gone now? No use at all?
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  7. Rhode trip

    Rhode trip guided by voices Supporter

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    No, it shows a lot of roads and it is very useful. Except for the part where I kept telling Mrs Trip:
    "Don't worry, the map shows it as a good gravel road. It'll be easy!"

    "My momma always said, Baja is like a box of chocolates..."

  8. TwilightZone

    TwilightZone Long timer Supporter

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    Great motel. Maybe the best lodging in Baja. Parked our bikes exactly where your are.
    Neat at night when the winds are blowing across the palm trees!

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  9. NMTrailboss

    NMTrailboss Team Dead End

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    Problem with Baja is the roads are always changing...no way to have them accurate to condition in an almanac like that all the time. Hurricanes and storms play havoc on those roads. I'd say the Baja Almanac is generally accurate but you can never rely on road conditions in Baja...ever changing! :deal

    This is the road you guys took out of Valle de Trinidad in 2010 right after a big hurricane...(that's Big Sprocket in the photo)...you just never know. I'm sure this has been repaired or the road just re-cut through the wash.
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    Great ride report and photos...very much enjoying!! :thumb Keep it coming!!! :lurk
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  10. SOLOKLR

    SOLOKLR Back to work

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    That pic is just another reason you don't ride at night down there. WOW!
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  11. NMTrailboss

    NMTrailboss Team Dead End

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    So true...sometimes it's a necessity and good lighting should be a priority just in case!
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  12. mananin

    mananin n00b

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    Really enjoy your words and pics. True adventures on Piggies - so unpretentious ! Brilliant. Bravo to both of you. Mrs T is a star !
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  13. Rhode trip

    Rhode trip guided by voices Supporter

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    Yeah, it was nice there. We stayed at a better class of lodging this time than we usually do on our rides. :lol3

    Hey, NMTrailboss those photos are great. I was going to say that they must have repaired that, but actually the route we took was west out of the Valle from the Pemex on a farm road that then turned south to meet up with the main road into the hills. So maybe that's still washed out... I let Garmin auto-route through there. Thanks for the post... really adds some perspective to the ride!

    No kidding, huh? Never see that coming, although mentioning riding after dark always makes me remember this photo from an earlier trip.

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    Thank you very much, mananin! Glad to have you along for the ride!
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  14. NMTrailboss

    NMTrailboss Team Dead End

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    We left from the Pemex in V de T as well. Looking at Google Earth, it appears the road has indeed been repaired. For reference, my photos above were taken from 31°23'10.7"N 115°46'35.6"W in Feb. 2010. We had been turned back many times that trip over two days and finally backtracked to San Felipe and went south through Coco's and eventually hooked up with Mex Hwy. 1 from that way. The Pacific coast roads had been devastated that year from hurricanes. You just never know out there and have to be prepared to backtrack and/or find other routes when necessary!
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  15. Massabusa

    Massabusa Been here awhile Supporter

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    Awesome!
    Spent the last couple of evenings reading through the whole thread- very jealous.
    I'm in MA, and for the last 2 years I've been without a motorcycle for the first time in 40 years...
    I reluctantly sold my KTM 950, and my DRZ 400 due to not being able to ride comfortably on either machine- bad hip.
    Well- I've got my surgery scheduled for the end of April and I'm busy looking for a new adventure bike- your ride report has made me think that a little bike might just be the thing!
    I wont be able to do some of the types of riding I've done over past years- at least the surgeon doesn't recommend activities that might break the new hip joint- so lighter, slower might be in order.
    Thanks for your awesome ride report and pictures!
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  16. Rhode trip

    Rhode trip guided by voices Supporter

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    Hey, thank you, Massabusa! I hope you have a quick recovery with the new hip and get back on 2 wheels soon!
  17. Rhode trip

    Rhode trip guided by voices Supporter

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    Friday, January 19th

    We left the Hotel Jardines, rode past the tall palms and down the dirt road in front that leads back to Mex 1.

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    Then followed the highway south, catching occasional glimpses of the ocean off to our west.

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    It's probably about 25 miles until the road swings east a bit, and climbs through a line of mountains with a few twists and then down into the town of El Rosario. It wasn't that early anymore... but after filling the tanks at a Pemex on the edge of town, we turned through the gate and into the lot for the famous Mama Espinoza's restaurant. It's been a Baja 1000 checkpoint..."since the first one!".

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    We parked the bikes and went inside. Mama Espinoza is credited with saying of Baja, "Bad roads bring good people."

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    The inside is filled with fifty years' worth of Baja 1000 memorabilia. We had the place practically to ourselves, and I wandered around a bit as they cooked our breakfast.

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    Stuffed and satisfied, we rode westward through the town and over some flat-topped hills with the ocean beyond.

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    Punta Baja juts out into the Pacific like a bony elbow. The waves beat against the high ground.

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    I even got my picture taken.

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    We clambered around...impressed with the surf...

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    There is a beacon on the point, warning unwary mariners away from the rocky shore.

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    A few sea birds hang out, watching the water...

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    Just off the point, waves sweep into a wide cove.

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    There's a guy down there... working....

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    A shovel full at a time, he throws a batch of rocks onto the screen, moves them across with a swipe. He's grading the rocks for size... some fall through, the keepers stay on top.

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    He fills the bags, one at a time. No company except for the gulls... there isn't even a vehicle to be seen. They must drop him off..."We'll be back to get you when you've got enough...."

    We started riding back... there's some abandoned buildings out near the point... a few fishermen's boats.

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    Back through the hills

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    ...with a view this way of the valley beyond...

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    The road meandered along the ridgeline

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    rising and falling and then down to the outskirts of El Rosario.

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    We went looking for the Mission... and found it. Or rather, what's left of it. The slumped remains of the original adobe walls have been plastered to preserve them.

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    Back on Mex 1, we rode south, out of town...

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    Just riding now... straight highway...open spaces...

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    As we got closer to Cataviña, the rocks appeared...

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    some piled up... many more, just scattered across the landscape. As the rocks multiplied...the road got worse...

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    We turned in at a side road.... just to wander a bit in the weird landscape...

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    Then back on the highway...just a few miles into town....

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    There sure isn't much in Cataviña... even the 24 hour Pemex was closed....

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    But what there is.... is the Hotel Mission Cataviña.... a very nice place, out in the middle of nowhere.

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    As I was unloading my bike, taking off the panniers, I realized a weld on my rack had broken. The whole load was unstable. Hmmm....
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  18. liv2day

    liv2day Life is about how you handle Plan B Supporter

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    Yikes, hope you're able to find a welder close by. Not sure zip ties and/or duct tape will suffice :patch:patch

    At some point in the future, I might ask to pick your brain on the places you guys rode and difficulty level. I'm really hoping to get down there with my wife who's a good rider, but isn't as keen as me in hitting gnarly stuff to get from point A to point B. All the shots of the tracks you took appear to be doable for most levels of riders, which is something I'd definitely lean toward when riding for our first time there.

    In any event, appreciate the update and enjoyed the pics and story :thumb:thumb
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  19. Rhode trip

    Rhode trip guided by voices Supporter

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    Stay tuned. :lol3 There's more.

    Well, I'm certainly no Baja expert, but I'm happy to share. Easy is the plan...not always the reality.
    Just remember...."Baja is like a box of chocolates...."
  20. akarob

    akarob Rob

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    Hell of a RR MrT. , beautiful pictures and descriptions. Bravo!
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