Mexican itinerary

Discussion in 'Americas' started by V@lentino, Jun 2, 2013.

  1. Sjoerd Bakker

    Sjoerd Bakker Long timer

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    image.png The Mex 190 does not touch Toluca , Mex 55 does go south from there.

    But when you mention the state Hiway 4 you are definitely on the right track for getting to Cuernavaca . Best go east from Toluca then south on 36 to pick up 4 south in the heavily industrialized valley basin. But then make sure at Sta Martha you turn off 4 to go EAST on Mex 106 across the wooded mountains and the Lagunas de Zempoala ..
    image.png
    image.png
    Screen grabs off maps. me


    That will take you onto Mex 95 about 11km north of Cuernavaca . Pretty crowded valley country there too .
    From Cuernavaca. it is a matter of going east on the 138 and hooking up with Mex 160 southeast to Izucar de Matamoros . And THAT is where you finally join Mex 190.
    Hotel towns are spaced about every 50km to 80km - or less - to Oaxaca ,
    You will love that road . It has well maintained surface , light traffic , sweeping curves over the ridges, great views and spots where it will be a preview of how mountainside farming in the Guatemalan highlands is done .
    East of Oaxaca valley , past Mitla it does indeed get sparsely populated , hotel towns are spaced farther apart but reasonable range of maybe 100km .
    Oaxaca to Tehuantepec is a nice day of easy calm riding . No worries.
    #81
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  2. Sjoerd Bakker

    Sjoerd Bakker Long timer

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    PS : a " half day " of riding between Toluca ( if that is your starting point ) and Cuernavaca is going to be a RACE ! Let us know how how far you got through that supremely scenic and curvy section . On a map it does not look like very far but once you ride in you will want to slow down and absorb it .
    I always seem to be able to make that ride last pretty well the whole day between leisurely breakfast and about a 5 pm stop . I Make Plenty of touristic stops en route,
    #82
  3. JRWooden

    JRWooden Homeless motorcycle vagabond ... and ... loving it

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    Thanks again for your help SB! :beer

    Sorry for the confusion, I'll be leaving from San Miguel Allende MX this morning about 10:30,
    then will stop in Toluca tonight - hoping to make it by mid/late afternoon.
    Walk the city a bit, then see the Cosmovitral botanical gardens tomorrow morning (Gardens are closed monday for others reading the thread for ideas)
    then head out towards Cuernavaca ... based on your input I'll not reserve a hotel room ahead of time and just find something on the fly ;-)

    Sounds like tomorrow is going to be a great day!

    Thanks,
    jim
    #83
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  4. JRWooden

    JRWooden Homeless motorcycle vagabond ... and ... loving it

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    So ... I had some trouble with cabbies and getting my girlfriend back to the airport yesterday morning in San Miguel Allende, so got a late start.
    On the way from San Miguel to Toluca I ran in to a SERIOUS downpour that turned into a frigg'n hail storm ...
    I hung out over an store awning for an hour or so then it let up, I slapped on my rain gear and made it into Toluca.
    I had planned to check out the Cosmovitral and some other stuff here in Toluca then head towards Cuernavaca this afternoon.
    Based on SB's comments I was expecting to stop somewhere along the way................

    Alas, the weather is not cooperating ... full on rain projected for both this afternoon and tomorrow afternoon.
    I'll probably sight-see this morning try and plan the rest of my route to Antigua here in the hotel room this afternoon while it rains,
    then head out early tomorrow morning and hope for the best.... :pynd
    #84
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  5. JRWooden

    JRWooden Homeless motorcycle vagabond ... and ... loving it

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    Well.........................
    I have to say that 190 has been an awesome ride -- THANKS FOR THE TIPs! :beer
    What a nice ride it has been!


    I'm hold up for the night in a little town called El Camaron Yautepec in the "Hotel America" which is one of the two hotels in town.
    The lady at the OXXO said this what the better of the two, so I took her word for it.
    $10/nite, nothing fancy, but it's clean, a fan, and decent WiFi.
    I suspect the mattress is not a beauty-rest, but I'm old and ugly so who cares?

    I'm still on Rt. 190 at this point, and plan to cross the border at Hidalgo / CA-2.
    I'm ahead of schedule and wouldn't mind a 2-night stop somewhere between here and the border to
    screw off, read up a bit about the border crossing, and plan the rest of my route into Antigua Guat.
    Can anybody suggest a middle-grade hotel between here and Hidalgo with safe moto parking, AC, WiFi, a desk, and beer? ;-) :pynd
    I could cut over to the beach if my arm was twisted just a little bit....

    Thanks,
    Jim
    #85
  6. Sjoerd Bakker

    Sjoerd Bakker Long timer

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    You are doing good enough on your own finding hotels if you had the smarts and timing to stop before nightfall in El Camaron.( The other hotel is next door across the street and is equally as good .... did you expect any other answer from the operator of your hotel ?)
    Nothing much wrong with the Hidalgo crossing , though it is a very commercial traffic route and may be muggy with thunderstorm weather with a cloudburst now and then - you are into a totally different climate there on the south coast of Chiapas and into Guatmala by way of Mex 200

    How about picking Arriaga as the next stop point ?
    Mex 200 to Tapachula and the Cd Hidalgo border crossing will be a fairly flat run in front of the mountains , very tropical .
    We cant have you getting " ahead of schedule" --- if you liked the 190 in Oaxaca why don't you consider stopping a night in Arriaga which has good assortment of hotels,( you could use the Hotel Panamericana downtown , a block east of the plaza on Avenida 4 .....)
    And there do your route planning .
    This is going to be difficult , there is a choice to be made, neither is " wrong"
    If you liked 190 in Oaxaca why not consider going north from Arriaga on 195 and rejoining 190 to Tuxtla Gutierrez and San Cristobal, Comitan de Dominguez and the La Mesilla border crossing into Guatemala where you are -- BOOM!-- into the wonderful scenic highlands on CA 1 which runs all the way to Antigua Guatemala and beyond . You might be stunned by the curves of 195 which swiftly climbs into the mountains- temperature drops and you wind up through a stretch of windy grassland and on the plateau with pine forests ranches, farms , several repeat climbs to Tuxtla G . modern big city , then another climb into the cool (rain possible\) Mayan Highlands and San Cristobal, capital of the Mundo Maya, with lots of scenic and cultural stuff .
    You should be able to whittle away several days of your schedule there abouts .

    Don't get your hopes up of beaches on the 200 - those are all at least 30km away at the end of spur roads .
    #86
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  7. JRWooden

    JRWooden Homeless motorcycle vagabond ... and ... loving it

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    Thanks SB!
    Getting ahead of schedule is NOT to be allowed ;-)
    My last time south I went via CA-1, so I think I'll take the coastal route and make sure I get some AC in that room and some ... :drink
    I'll look in the neighborhood of Arriaga !

    Thanks!

    yeah ... I was puzzling the map, and saw the road is well in from the coast with only a few spurs marked on google maps ....
    Kind of a pity....

    Now ... about the upcoming Kindle edition of your book.... :-)
    #87
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  8. eakins

    eakins Butler Maps

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    Sweet road!

    Have you ever posted your list of 10 best paved roads in Mexico? Do you have a list?
    #88
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  9. eakins

    eakins Butler Maps

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    Do you have SB book about Mexican hotels?
    #89
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  10. Sjoerd Bakker

    Sjoerd Bakker Long timer

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    Nah , he missed reading about it early enough :doh

    JR, it just became halfway clear to me from reading your previous post #84 (Tuesday 6:15 pm ) that you planned to leave TOLUCA on Wednesday MORNING
    and in post #85 on THursday night you are reporting from El Cameron Yautepec ,OAX )
    Or did you make it to CUERNAVACA same day after Toluca ? ?

    Either way I am going to have to give you SPEEDING TICKET :dirtdog . How many km did you travel in that two days ? Toooooo maaaaany !

    You blew by Oaxaca City the Zocalo , the Mercado Juarez , etc etc etc and the ruins of Monte Alban and the the ruins at Mitla , among others .
    That is no way to travel through that country ,: you are still enslaved to a """schedule """ and dedicating too much effort to get to a " next point ".
    Tone it down . You yourself said you had lots of time to reach Antigua Guatemala . Doing 200km per day you will still get there with time to spare.
    Why would you race along and then decide to plunk down to twiddle around for a day or two and rest up .
    You need to learn to slow down and to pace your travel rate . Do all the twiddling around as you ride , explore towns and ruins , and yes you would have time to do a side trip to a beach - but remember that most of that Mex 200 south coast has a barrier island so other than Puerto Arista , the beach is reached by a boat ride across a lagoon (bike would need to stay parked or dragged over with a small ferry- if one is available, (( i'd stay on Mex 190)))

    And no ,I dont keep a list of "ten best roads " or anything else , it would be too limiting, I do keep a map marked with all my used routes and I do know where the good ones are , but there are many more I have yet to travel.
    #90
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  11. JRWooden

    JRWooden Homeless motorcycle vagabond ... and ... loving it

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    Alas ........... I do not have SB's book ... not because I'm cheap, but because it's only available in paper format and I've been on the road for almost a year now,
    with no plan firm enough to have it mailed to me so I will have it for my trip back north...............
    (I've been rooting for a Kindle / PDF version) :y0!

    the good news is that when I get to Antigua, I'll be there for 2 months, and will have some friends coming down, so since SB refuses to join the digital age :ksteve I should be able to figure out a way to have him mail a copy to a state-side friend that is coming to visit....
    #91
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  12. JRWooden

    JRWooden Homeless motorcycle vagabond ... and ... loving it

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    SB: Well ... I'm not sure what exactly I did .. but I spent two nights in TOLUCA so had one whole day to wander, see the stained glass building (sorry I forget the name),
    the inquisition museum (made me think twice about a lot of things), and a bunch of other stuff,then the next morning I got up late rode 190 ...

    CA-1 was a GREAT ride, I figured I do CA-2 this time since I hadn't gone this way before.
    but the leg of the trip from the bottom of the mountains from here was ....
    Flat, boring, and hot.... and of course I found out why they have such a HUGE wind-farm along the road ... I'm a little sore tonight from wrangling the bike most of the way.

    to a REALLY NICE hotel put it in your book ... AND other travelers take note:
    Hotel Campestre Don Luis in Huajuapan
    I found this an awesome place @ $380 pesos / night ($20 USD)
    They have spacious cabins in a secure area and you park your bike right in front of your cabin
    No AC but at that elevation I didn't need it, decent WiFi, hot water, good bed, and friendly folks.

    Last night I stayed in Hotel America, El Camaron Yautepec, Oaxaca
    there are only two hotels in that town HA andHotel Santa Elena
    I asked the clerk at the local OXXO which was better (cual es mejor) and she rolled her eyes in a nice way ;- )
    and instantly replied Hotel America ... so I went with it...
    For $200 pesos (roughly $10 USD) it was worth the money not fancy by any means, but clean and safe - I parked my moto in the central lobby/plaza.
    No AC ... No toilet seat (my 2nd mexican hotel with no toilet seat ... WTF is up with that?) but had a fan and very good WiFi I was happy,
    but then I am low maintenance ;-)

    Tonight I'm at Hotel Garden Suites Tonala - in Tonala and it's very nice ... rooms are a bit small but very nice and hotel is recent bulid,
    no hot water, but ambient water is fine here at least at this time of year. $450 pesos

    so yeah, I need your book, and somehow I'll have a USA friend mule it down to me while I'm in Antigua as it will be the first time in the past year when I know I'll be staying put for a while. I want you to know this is quite a honor ... as I've given away 95% of my books in favor of loosing the weight and the clutter
    I'll only have my kindle and ONE book on my bike --> YOURS :drink


    So I may vector northward tomorrow, while I'm not on a tight schedule I can NOT be late to Antigua, my friends have expensive tickets to fly out and I can't let them down....
    I worry about blowing a bearing or something serious and not being able to find a chicken bus to get me there on time............. :becca






    #92
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  13. Sjoerd Bakker

    Sjoerd Bakker Long timer

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    :jack
    No toilet seat (my 2nd mexican hotel with no toilet seat ... WTF is up with that?) but had a fan and very good WiFi I was happy,
    but then I am low maintenance ;-) :imaposer

    This toilet topic comes up fairly regularly here .

    WARNING : The following informational message for visitors new to Mexico contains explicit description of toilets and bodily functions. Those with a genteel disposition and prone to retching or fainting spells when mention of such things is made may wish to avert their eyes until a follow up post appears. :D

    Get over it . Nothing at all wrong with absence of toilet seats . Your devotion to seats on the toilet , el inodoro , is a muy gringo cultural thing .
    There are several good PRACTICAL reasons why the toilet seat is left off.

    - It broke , either from old age or because some elephant or drug crazed moron stood on it, vandalized it and wrecked it on purpose. Things like that are going on in the USA , right now.
    -With NO toilet seat cleanliness is easier to maintain . How often do you go into a public toilet and discover that some filthy ingnorant slob has pissed all over the seat? How often do you discover that some grossly overweight slob with explosive diarrhea has left his marks on the wide plastic seat and on the toilet rim below, as well as on the wall ?
    - A toilet seat is not meant to serve as a butt comforter while one sits there for an extended period reading or writing or telephoning or or twittering one's activities to the world. One should sit down and do the business and move away in short order .
    - Many of the toilet seats are not " missing' ----- they were never there, intentionally not installed .
    - There are new models of toilets in many locations where the entire unit is designed to work without any additional fold up seat. You will find them in hotels and public WC . The oval seat area is of a slightly smaller size and contoured with a soft rim profile which will make a comfortable interface. ( I have a picture of one, GEDC0001.JPG as found in Hotel Monterrey in Matehuala . Notice the anatomy- friendly smooth curve of the rim , the easier to keep clean single surface , no wood or plastic moving parts prone to wear out , crack or splinter and do harm to a bippy or to pinch giblets.
    DSC08800.JPG
    and while on the topic how about this beauty of a latrine , hurricane proof in Chan Colotmul , Quintana Roo., solidly built under a government program to improve rural sanitation .No more going into the bushes . Notice the water tap and wash basin . You to may be using something like this if your couch surfing appointment is in the small house beside . )

    The absolute worst toilet seats are the USA ones with a padded seat said padding being nothing more than a plastic bag shrink - wrapped around the seat and having vents around the bottom where the air escapes when compressed by the user sitting down . When that compressing weight is removed the padding expands again and sucks in the air , capturing droplets, vapors and the particulates creating a wonderful bacterial culture which pumps out when the next rump lands . Or a sheepskin toilet seat !!! And they have the nerve to put a ribbon around those and say it has been " sanitized ? EEEEuuuuuwwwwww :fpalm

    Toilet ettiquette: don't go all goofy and decide to download a turd while standing - you will miss the target. Check the seat for cleanliness , wipe it down with toilet paper if there is a small problem , and put down a rim- cover of toilet paper, and SIT. If you are really worried carry a small packet of alcohol soaked sterile wipe cloths and give the seat a quick clean.
    After the download place all TOILET PAPER ONLY into the flusher and send it all away . Do NOT flush PAPER TOWELS, WET WIPES ,nor the alcohol wipers or rags , corn husks, cactus pads down the toilet .

    A world traveler should be prepared to work with whatever toilet is available- - or bring a scoop and dig his own cat-hole . In the back country you may actually have to deal with less than a seat-less toilet. How about using a squatter toilet- a porcelain casting in the floor with a hole in the middle and two pads for your feet ?
    #93
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  14. Cal

    Cal Long timer

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    I am finding more and more hotels in Mexico with toilet seats since I stopped using Sjoerds book:imaposer
    #94
  15. JRWooden

    JRWooden Homeless motorcycle vagabond ... and ... loving it

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    What exactly are you implying here? :dirtdog :lol2
    #95
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  16. Sjoerd Bakker

    Sjoerd Bakker Long timer

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    Cal prefers padded toilet seats ? :lol3
    #96
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  17. SkizzMan

    SkizzMan aka SkiddMark ;^)

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    I like a mohair cover.

    TMI??
    #97
  18. JRWooden

    JRWooden Homeless motorcycle vagabond ... and ... loving it

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    I ended up in Playa Linda today very nice.
    Expansive flat beach that would make most of North America very green with envy. The beachfront is very underdeveloped ...

    nice hotel with all the amenities ... ~$37 USD/nite currently (prices are very seasonal here.. so check before you get excited if you come this way)
    it's on the "first row" of real buildings ... there are some food stands between it an the beach.
    It's run by a Canadian couple ... the husband road a 200cc Vespa scooter from Canada down to the hotel here ...
    ... And people think I'm a can or two short of a six-pack.... :drink

    Find the hotel here: www.PlayaLindaHotelTapachula.com
    #98
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  19. JRWooden

    JRWooden Homeless motorcycle vagabond ... and ... loving it

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    Question on getting to Real de Catorce?

    On google maps it looks like there are two entrances into town
    One from the west off of hwy 6 out of EstaciĆ³n Catorce, and one from the north off of hwy 62 near San Juan de Vanegas.
    Are both of those viable?

    I'll be coming up from the south so was thinking I'd come in off of hwy 6 and head out through the tunnel toward hwy 62 to the north?

    thanks!
    Any hotel suggestion in Real de Catorce welcome as well :pynd
    #99
  20. kantuckid

    kantuckid Long timer

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    Kentucky-Eastern that is!
    One entrance is via the remarkable cobblestone road and the one way controlled access tunnel. I have never taken the backway but in my mind I recall it as a poorly maintained?, little used, dirt mining road. Not up to date information on the back route as it was 2012 last time I was there.
    I highly recommend the hotel having the same name as the town itself! Sleep there, eat there.
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