JR, the classic cobblestone/tunnel route is what you are thinking the northern approach is, the way you worded it. I wouldn't miss it just for the experience. Also, you can exit out the "back" way but you'll need to be on your game. My mechanic, MotoHank, was filming while descending that, hit a rock, and was pointed at the edge for a puckering moment. I'll try to find the video. As far as hotels, I think you'd be quite happy with Hotel Real Bonanza.