Mexico by Geezer

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by RexBuck, Jan 28, 2012.

  1. Jick Magger

    Jick Magger Exile on Main Street

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    He is the same way with the Salvation Army kettle. Pull out the bankroll and slip them a quarter. "uno momento"
    #81
  2. SkizzMan

    SkizzMan aka SkiddMark ;^)

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    :rofl:rofl:rofl
    #82
  3. RexBuck

    RexBuck Long timer

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    I honestly don't know. I was more worried about someone whipping around that corner and nailing me so I just grabbed some coins and stuffed them in - probably 10 or 15 pesos.

    Thanks for following along a.j.


    May have been too small but it sure worked. Of course down here they aren't into a lot of rules - they'll rip up a road - no signs, nothing - just expect you to figure out what to do in a nanosecond. Actually works pretty well.]



    You are right. But she was so cute, she could have had my bike if she wanted.

    Thanks for following along Pedro. And I'll certainly be up for some riding - need some practice trying to keep up with you anyhow.

    Ahh, so you know that trick also . . .
    #83
  4. pchGS

    pchGS Mark

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    Great stuff, would love to have the time to do both sides of the country. But at least I'm gonna get Baja in at the end of the month.

    Safe travels! :freaky
    #84
  5. chilango13

    chilango13 Been here awhile

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    Uno Momento!...did you really get scared?:eek1...keep those pictures coming!!!:clap
    #85
  6. RexBuck

    RexBuck Long timer

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    Thanks for your comments pchGS

    You are going to have a great time in the Baja. Have a great and safe trip and thanks for following along with me.
    #86
  7. RexBuck

    RexBuck Long timer

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    In the first second when I saw that rope across the road, I had about 20 possibilites running through my head. Didn't see anyone around like this
    [​IMG]
    so, relaxed a little. :lol3

    Thanks for following along chilango13
    #87
  8. motowest

    motowest Two-wheeled Adventurer

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    Good to see it was the good bandito that persuaded you to stop!:D
    #88
  9. RexBuck

    RexBuck Long timer

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    Day 23 - Feb 8

    With no internet - nothing to goof off with, decided to head out a bit earlier than normal to Pie de la Cuesta, just north of Acapulco. Thought about having a short day to Zihuatanejo but have been there many times so, thought I'd charge on.

    No gas last night, well into my reserve and next town is about 60km. So, pour my spare gas in and head out. Haven’t even left town yet and, whoa there Sparky, not so fast! There is another frickin Pemex on the other side of town – crap! Refill the Rotopax, fill the bike and head out. Idjit! I guess I shoulda axed somebody.

    Comment about Pemex. In Mexico, you have a choice to buy gas at either Pemex, Pemex or Pemex. Sometimes in remote areas if there is a long distance between Pemexes, you will find people selling gas out of a barrel – sometimes a little dodgy but, if you need gas, they are handy. While Pemex is a government monopoly that the government lives off of, I think most (if not all) stations are operated by private companies, so some will have a convenience store attached. The stations are swarming with attendants who pump gas for you, unless you are a picky biker. Most only accept cash. Bonus – gas here is not cut with ethanol. Prices about 10p per litre for Premium – that’s about 80c per litre or a little over $3 a US Gal
    [​IMG]


    Roads weren't nearly as spectacular as yesterday afternoon. Road from Bahia to Lazarlo Cardeñas being straightened out. Lots of detours – well, that means the road stops and there are some dirt places to drive on, so go where ever you think will work. If there is like a 20 foot hole you could drive into, they will usually stick a couple of cones or something in front of it. Sometimes mark danger ahead by putting some rocks on the road. When they finish this project, hope they don’t go and straighten the part north of Bahia Bafundo – it’s a gem. Would be a shame but road builders are like that.

    Stopped in a little town and found a restaurant in some people’s house. Had tosdados, large fresh squeezed orange juice and coffee. Hmmm, good.

    Lots of coconut plantations and lots of piles of coconut husks. Couple of places the coconuts were split in half and laying on the ground. I presume that these farmers must carve the coconut meat out and sell it. Mexicans love their Cocos.

    [​IMG]


    Resort hotels in the distance along Ixtappa beach
    [​IMG]

    Also ran across an adobe brick making operation – see a lot of those around also. Lot of adobe houses in smaller communities.
    [​IMG]

    Stopped for a break and had an ice cream bar. These Mexicans are clever. Instead of wasting space for a wooden handle (not to mention wasting trees - see, I am ecologically sensitive), they just make the bar full length, put sandwich material on half for the handle and dip the other half in chocolate. Brilliant!
    [​IMG]

    Went through two Army check points today – got my side bags checked in one again and at the other one guy starts babbling at me for a minute – hadn’t the slightest clue what he was on about. Asked him to repeat what he said slowly and the other guy standing there just tells me to go. Then as I’m getting ready, asks the where are you going where are you from stuff. These Army guys are all pretty young but quite professional.

    Arrived in Pie de la Cuesta and decided to check things out. Mostly older hotels but strung out along the beach. Decided to try one of the Lonely Planet recommendations Villas Nirvana Hotel. 450 p – not a bad room – hot water fairly fast. I think it’s just me and one other couple from Minnesota. Big pool, restaurant/bar, beach – all empty. Too bad.


    Sitting by the pool under the stars typing this with my buddy Negro Modelo. Young Juan, the caretaker hands me a pad of paper with my room number on it, points to where the NM is kept and asks me to keep track of what I drink. Works for me!

    What's left of the Negra Modelo is in the upper right corner
    [​IMG]

    The honor system

    [​IMG]
    #89
  10. Migolito

    Migolito Prognosticator and MotoYogi

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    I retired a couple of months ago. For most of my career the plan was to retire to Mexico. Unfortunately, the last few years I received the weekly Homeland security briefings about Mexico. Needless to say, I can't bring myself to take the chance of traveling there. I've been bent and I know it. Keeping up on your adventure makes me want to head south though...
    #90
  11. Jick Magger

    Jick Magger Exile on Main Street

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    Okanagan Valley BC, Canada/Scottsdale, Arizona
    Steve

    Looks like you are running out of your favourite brand. Heading to Sayulita next month with Cobi and my youngest daughter. Seems like a done deal as of today. They are going to fly of course and i will retrieve my bike from Phoenix and ride to Sayulita to meet them. It seems you are familiar with Guayabitos. How do you compare it to Sayulito or Bucerias if indeed you are familiar with those towns? Keep in mind the accomodations expected from the girls will be a little more demanding than road trip pads. I will be working on a route. It will be my first time riding in Mexico. Enjoying following along here..keep posting. "Senor....Step away from the fridge"....:1drink
    #91
  12. RexBuck

    RexBuck Long timer

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    Hey Migolito thanks for following.

    Everybody has to make their own decision on whether to come down here or not. You have to do what's right for you. In my case, I looked at the media reports and government warnings and weighed them against experiences of people who have been down here and my own experiences down here. I came to the conclusion that one group are generally people who have not travelled in Mexico and are simply regurgitating sensationalized news (including the government) and the other group have been there.

    Hell, Homeland Security had a do not travel warning to Canada for a while (may still be there) because of the Vancouver riots after the Stanley Cup. Think about it, Canada is populated by people that fall all over themselves to be nice and Homeland Security says you may be in danger. Sheesh!

    Mexican cities like American cities, Canadian cities and cities around the world have places you probably shouldn't hang out at night. Rural areas less so.

    Sorry to blather on but look for experiential evidence from people who spend time down here and weigh that with the other opinions you receive. Maybe sometime you'll feel like just coming down here and hanging out for a while and get a taste of the country, keep your eyes open and then make your own decision based on your own experiences.
    #92
  13. RexBuck

    RexBuck Long timer

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    Hey BJ, you guys are going to love it. Sayulita has a little more of an international flavour because it apparently is a destination surf spot - so, lots of surfers.

    I've never stayed in Sayulita but it is a nice town and Im guessing there are some decent hotels. There are a couple in Guayabitos and I know Bucerias has a bunch.

    That is basicly the trip I did last year so, if you'd like some more input, PM me and I'll outline what I did last year, the best border crossing, etc.
    #93
  14. RexBuck

    RexBuck Long timer

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    Day 24 - Feb 9

    What a great day! Had decided to detour around Acapulco for a number of reasons. There is a pretty logical route that takes probably an extra couple hours. But, looking at the map figured a bigger detour would be better than just a run of the mill detour. So, this has turned into a two and a half day detour.

    Heading out of Pie trying to avoid getting wacked by insane drivers - guess everybody was late for work - that thought alone made me calmer. Made my way north on Mex200 then up 95 Libre to Chilpancingo. What a great morning - not a lot of traffic, great road, curves as we gain altitude heading into the Sierra Madres. Just cruising on the sweepers. Start getting into the mountains and they are fantastic - I'm enjoying it immensely.


    Start to see some mountains
    [​IMG]


    Now the plan is to turn right in Chilpancingo and head over to Tlapa de Comonfort for the night. Sounds simple, right?

    So, I'm going to talk about my GPS, Virginia. I named it after that girl in Elementary School who just irritated the crap out of you but you had to listen to her because she was smarter than you. Everybody has somebody like that in their past and mine was Virginia. You can almost hear a little attitude in the her voice when I make a wrong turn "Off course - recalculate? (Idiot!)" So, anyhow, Virginia knew where we needed to go but she decides to take a short-cut - bless her heart, get us through the city faster.

    Well the first right she wanted me to take didn't exist - I persevered knowing that she was smarter than me and on the next shot she'd get it right. She sent me in the right direction but once we worked our way almost to Hwy 93, no dice - no road. OK, now I'm getting a tad bit miffed. I'll take things in my own hands - head back down to the Highway and figure it out from there. Look at the big picture and see I have to go about another 5 km to get the actual turnoff for Hwy 93. So, jumped on the 95 and headed towards the rendezvous with 93. Bad move. I'm on the highway - should be on the Lateral (I'll explain those later) so, have to drive way past the turn off. Virginia sends me on another wild romp on some residential roads to get me back to 93. Finally get through that and, magically appears the turnoff for 93.


    Now I want to explain something here. We are in the mountains. Chilpancingo is a pretty good sized town and they long ago ran out of space on the valley floor so, a lot of it is built on the side of (cliffs) mountains. So far, driving around these roads in this town makes driving around San Francisco seem like you are in Kansas. These things are steep!

    So now I'm home free. Right? Not so fast. First, all of a sudden there are about three truckloads of State Police running around, a couple of motocops and a couple of cops on foot with their hands on their guns - I'm thinking I don't want to be in this space at this time - moved out of that block quickly. So, I'm good to go. Whoops. They've ripped up the road and there's a detour. OK, detour up this glorified ally - now where? Well follow some cars, collectivos, etc. I'm working my way in the right direction but some of these streets are even steeper. At one point I'm stopped on this berm across an intersection trying to figure out if I should go left or right - one collectivo pulls up from the left right in front of me wanting to go down the road I'm on and another pulls up on the right, right in front of me wanting to go down the road I'm on. I'm facing downhill so, I'm not backing up. Guess this is what you call a Mexican standoff. So I finally pull forward enough for the guy on the right to go down the road I'm on - the dick on the left still won't back up so, I'll work my way around and go left on his left. Sheesh! Turned out to be the wrong way anyhow.

    Finally found my way to 93 and the world was once again in order. Great road - nice and curvy but a lot of traffic so just took my time. After a while the traffic thinned out and I was able to get by some pokey trucks and buses and cars and pickups. A great ride from there. Nice road, great scenery as we fluctuated between 5000 feet and 7000 feet. At the higher levels the temps dropped to down around 17deg C (low 60's F) which has sure been a lot different than the last couple of weeks.
    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    This lady cooked me breakfast at one of the great roadside restaurants

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    Some of the switchbacks down to Tlapa

    [​IMG]

    Road got a little rattier as I progressed - potholes of various sizes, dips, bumps and a couple of places where the road had slipped off. Just a great ride!

    Got into Tlapa de Comonfort which is a decent sized town. and after wandering around for a while and figuring out which one way street I need to get to point A, found Hotel Villa Celeste. It turned out to be great - nice room, great courtyard, secure parking and WiFi - 500p - less than $40.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    #94
  15. Sleddog

    Sleddog Ridin, again:)

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    Rex, maybe I missed it, what are you using on your GPS for maps? GPSTravelMaps.com maybe?

    BTW, your explanation regarding making the decision to travel into Mexico is spot on, no one has said it better.

    Sleddog
    #95
  16. SkizzMan

    SkizzMan aka SkiddMark ;^)

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    +1
    #96
  17. RexBuck

    RexBuck Long timer

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    BiciMapas on a Zumo 660.

    Works pretty good about 98% of the time. As with any GPS mapset, recent changes are not reflected. Roads are something the government likes to spend money on so there are changes.

    Routing in towns and cities is the diciest – the one way streets wrack havoc with its planned route. Have to really keep an eye out for going down one ways the wrong way.Then its trying to figure out the combination of one way streets to get to your destination.

    When it just isn't getting the routing right, zoom out, find where you want to be and work your way towards that - see some interesting neighborhoods that way.

    They have started beefing up their POI database (hotels, restaraunts, gas stations) with mixed success. Hotels bat about 50% on being where they say they are, Pemexs are usually pretty good but they miss the odd one.

    I probably rely on the GPS too much but when it is working right, it makes getting around so much easier. Turns onto another road are not always well signed so, the GPS is great that way. It does get quirky sometimes as I've mentioned but I like having it on board.
    #97
  18. SkizzMan

    SkizzMan aka SkiddMark ;^)

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    Running BiciMapas on a Zumo 665 I found that using street addresses is kinda hit-and-miss but the intersection function has yet to fail to give effective turn-by-turn directions.
    #98
  19. Pete_Tallahassee

    Pete_Tallahassee Grampy

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    Enjoying your report. I will be that area as I head toward Oaxaca in mid March.
    Question : Have you seen motels in the 250 peso range? I'm trying to keep cost per day under US $50. or even less. How much is a typical meal costing you?
    Anytime you can mention prices it would be appreciated.
    #99
  20. RexBuck

    RexBuck Long timer

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    Pete, thanks for following along.

    The hotel prices will vary from town to town. Those off the beaten track will be easier to find less expensive accomodation. Many times hostels will provide decent rates for a place to sleep. I think averaging under 250p is very doable.

    Food is all over the map. Breakfast at roadside joints are usually between 40p and 60p - depending on what you have. Dinners can range from 30 or 40p for a bunch of street tacos to over 100p at a sit-down restaraunt with a couple of beers.

    Watch where you spend your money and it won't be a problem.

    If you carry (and use) camping gear, will make that objective even easier.