Michnus & Elsebie Piki-Piki Around the World.

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by michnus, Jun 11, 2011.

  1. michnus

    michnus Lucky bastard Supporter

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    This is where we had to make serious decisions. As Torres disappeared in the rearview mirrors, we were heading to Puerto Natales.

    Puerto Natales is a port city on the Señoret Channel in Chile’s southern Patagonia. It’s the gateway to Torres del Paine National Park to the northwest, and the port for boats touring the Patagonian fjords. To the north is the vast Mylodon Cave, once inhabited by prehistoric, slothlike mylodons.

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    Straight-line from the old pier at the back Torres lies behind the mountains. The weather is brutal and changes on the hour. The winds and clouds at least makes for some cool photos. I had to hang onto the tripod to take this 20sec long exposure.

    We had to head back to Bolivia, but which way? On the coast of Argentina or back up Chile's side?
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    There is a ferry, well it is a bit more cargo than the ferry and it is old, which runs the fjords back up to Puerto Montt. People told us it is one spectacular ferry ride. Something more akin to the fjords in Sweden and those places. What we were not in the mood for was the 700km run down to Ushuaia to take a selfie and ride back to catch the ferry.
    We decided the run to Ushuaia and then up the Argentine coast, might be more boring than taking the ferry back up and stay in the mountains between Chile and Argentina to get to Bolivia.

    Consultations took place between us and our dear Pommie friends who visited Ushuaia a couple of weeks prior. The question was, is it worth hauling as 1400km round just for a selfie? Is there anymore more to see in Ushuaia than a Hard Rock cafe and Princess Cruise liners with rich folk hanging around? Fat whales, fat chicks, good bars? Anything?
    The answer came back naaaah, don't waste your time. We trust their judgment as we have been traveling with them for quite some time. We had a week to kill before the ferry. That said the ferry was not going to be a cheap exercise. But we reckon, seeing that we do not waste more money running to Ushuaia and our GoFundMe begpacking campaing to get us to Antarctica only netted us 5us from Elsebie's mom contribution to GoFundMe we can just as well call this ferry ride our end of the earth luxury. :photog
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    There are some bloody good restaurants and bars in Peurto Natales we could turn into a local hangout for us. The best part they had some of the best lamb and our Airbb for that week had an oven. :super
    Wash it down with local beer.

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  2. elron

    elron Still Standing Supporter

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    Brilliant fish-boning and analysis. I was rooting for the ferry choice. :getiton Ushuaia is indeed an iconic "to-do-list" selfie destination but IMO, outside of a selfie at a sign...eh? (and that ain't worth squat as I haven't been there and like opinions I also have an asshole..so what). Now if one was gonna go from there to Antarctica upclose you got a maybe yeah. Unlike the iconic selfie at Machu Pichu, another over run & done "to-do-lister", the sight is still something to behold and worth the commonality of its uniqueness (there's a paradoxical statement for ya). Looking forward to your ferrying adventure.
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  3. michnus

    michnus Lucky bastard Supporter

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    Absolutely agree with you. On the one hand, it would have been nice to end the road with a selfie at Ushuaia. But like you say if we went because we were able to go to Antarctica it was a different story. But that's part of all this travel, choices have to be made, unfortunately, everything in consideration we can't have it all our way.
    In hindsight, I actually have no regret that we did not go down just to say we made it. We had such a cool time in Peurto Natales. We did make the absolute top of South America if that counts for something :photog
    There have been a few instances where we decided not do go to a place and just sit it out and staying in a place turned out to be exceptionally rewarding. This was no different.
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  4. poppawheelie

    poppawheelie Long timer

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    One point has been missed on the Ushuaia-or-not-Ushuaia conversation. I won't bore you with my pictures, but the I found ride across Tierra del Fuego to reach Ushuaia had it's own unique beauty. OK, I'm beating a dead horse here. You appear comfortable with your decision, and that's fine. I'll shut up now. That chocolate though. :lol3
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  5. michnus

    michnus Lucky bastard Supporter

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    Sitting around drinking beer always get preference :photog:freaky
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  6. michnus

    michnus Lucky bastard Supporter

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    We were really looking forward to the ferry trip. 4 days 3 nights of chillin and cruising. With the two Aussies stuck due to their fall and not able to go with, the company refunded them and were kind to offer us the entire room for ourselves. Now, that sounds very luxurious. Except for their version of a 4 bed is my size for two people at best. Four people farting in a space the size of a shoebox is not my idea of Princess Cruises luxury.

    It is basically an old cargo ship with rooms. In the winter only cargo can go. In summer passengers can go but it is limited. There's a bit of stench of cattle but that's part of the fun and seeing youngsters staggering around with bewildering eyes and green faces.:photog:puke2 Screenshot 2020-07-09 at 15.51.25.png Screenshot 2020-07-09 at 15.51.47.png Screenshot 2020-07-09 at 15.51.56.png
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  7. michnus

    michnus Lucky bastard Supporter

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    We are not used to long travel ferries or cruise ships. Never done it before. Except for the RORO we took from Isreal to Italy. For us, this was going to be a joll. No alcohol allowed, well fuck that, we are grown-ups and I drink whiskey from a Canteen. But if you are an iffy soul expecting luxuries this is not the cruise to take. The food is basic but very good, the only amenities onboard is your own Pornhub downloads and music. It is what is going on outside that is important.

    The boat is about 190yrs or something to that effect, the captain is as old and sailed these waters before Vasco De Gama steps ashore the Americas.

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    We had to board the evening and the next morning at 7pm it would set sail. It was pissing with rain and cold. We had to be there the afternoon and by 7pm they were still offloading cargo. The crew were friendly and said they will ride our bikes onto the ferry we can go inside.

    Eeerm, not de hell will that happen. I don't trust anyone standing there to ride our bikes on. They loaded our bikes 1st at the back to make sure they would be out of the weather. Okay, so we wait. And in hindsight was a good thing. The Gorilla redneck's job is to tie down vehicles brought out straps made for trucks and start pulling the bikes down to where I could see the straps will crack the fucking frame of the in two. With a quick swift, a wave of the arm and fuck this, fuck that, what de fuck?! I released the straps and told him I will do it myself. If we left them to do that sure as hell we would have ended with bent or broken frames and bikes.

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    Sunrise over the port.

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    Waving Torres and Patagonia a goodbye.

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    Not far out of port the rain and miserable weather started. sailing between the islands makes for some smooth going.

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    The reason you need an old sea dog to run a ship in these narrow channels. There were a few times he had to maneuver the tub between small islands like these.

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    The captain was kind enough to allow me to get some photos from their "office"
  8. michnus

    michnus Lucky bastard Supporter

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    Inhospitable place. But I can't stop thinking, it is good to not see people have fucked it up by trying to live there. And hopefully, it will stay that uninhabitable for future generations to see what earth looks like where there are no people.

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    The landscape is beyond words. I stood outside for hours taking photos like a deranged addict only going back in to stop my teeth breaking from the chatter. Everything changes all the time.

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    Cutting through one of the narrowest channels on the trip I went to the bridge. Absolute silence and concentration. None of the crew made a sound and as the captain explained, if shit goes wrong here, to get help and rescue will be a long wait, so they take zero changes.

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  9. River Rat

    River Rat Greybeard

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    WOW :thumb
  10. Essbee

    Essbee Been here awhile

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    Thank you for the painstaking trouble for sharing these magnificent images. To say they're breathtaking is not an exaggeration, I find myself gasping! Your to-the-point narrations/captions are so spot-on too! Absolutely....fkn.....awesome!
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  11. skibum69

    skibum69 slave to gravity Super Supporter

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    That looks like a fun ferry ride! Good on ya for taking it.
  12. Grynch

    Grynch Long timer

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    A bit of a control freak, eh?! Got to tie down the bikes yourself? I am just like you, if some straps are going to break something on my bike, I want to be the one to be responsible, that way I have no one to blame but myself. How is Bolivia?
  13. Mark64

    Mark64 Adventurer

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    Hi Michnus, your photos are the stuff of dreams, I don't have enough adjectives or expletives to say how stunningly beautiful are the images you take, I tip my hat to you sir, or as they say in the 21st century "big ups"
    Keep them coming fella.
  14. elron

    elron Still Standing Supporter

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    Usual amazing quality pics. and none-the-less interesting & new. A great change of scenery & life style. Always good to mix it up. So what was the otherwise (you folks & the bikes) payload this ship was hauling? So how long before you find whoever has smuggled some rum aboard. Or did you on your own? :super
  15. skibum69

    skibum69 slave to gravity Super Supporter

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    No one else puts gas in my tank or ties down my bike.
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