Mike and Shelley go to Europe and ride around some

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by AMEretired, Sep 6, 2018.

  1. Jim K.

    Jim K. Long timer

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    Love the Musee D' Orsay! The brilliant transformation of the building itself, from RR station to art gallery is as inspiring as the art it contains. What was once the first class dining room of the train station, is now a superb (but pricey) restaurant. One of our best meals in Paris.
    (Note: not the the mass market cafeteria on the top floor, 'tho that is pretty good for what it is & has great views)
    #61
  2. AMEretired

    AMEretired Been here awhile Supporter

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    After enjoying a bit of Spring rain in Paris we were ready to move along.

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    We had received an email cautioning us about Gillet Jaune demonstrations at Paris airports at the time of our departure and as a result we set up transfer on the (really) early side.
    Worked out fine with the protests being peaceful.

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    #62
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  3. AMEretired

    AMEretired Been here awhile Supporter

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    Time to move on.


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    Hello Sella !!!
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    And Lobagola
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    #63
  4. AMEretired

    AMEretired Been here awhile Supporter

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    Great to be back in Zagreb as this was where riding would start from :clap

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    If I stay in Zagreb very long I will weigh 300 lbs.
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    I did get to install my new GoPro Mount.


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    Still life "Old Fart Working On Motorcycle"
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    Always time to get out and about a bit -- and eat--- and have a drink or ---
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    Not a car or plate that you would expect to see in Zagreb !!
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    Completed in 1217,with the latest renovation well underway, Zagreb Cathedral is breathtaking.
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    Cool tunnels and strange museum.

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    The Zagreb funicular. This little funicular connects the upper town to downtown, rises just 66 meters making it one of the smallest public transport funiculars in the world and has been in operation over 120 years. Very cool.
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    #64
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  5. AMEretired

    AMEretired Been here awhile Supporter

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    We had planned for 2 days in the Plitvice National park but had to adapt a bit. We had a choice, stay in Zagreb, keep warm and dry and go for a nice dinner or ride in rain/snow/2C temp. Dinner was excellent and the next days ride was just fine.
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    We were able to purchase entry tickets at the gate but this is changing.
    In order to limit the number of people in the park at any given time it may be necessary to purchase tickets online in advance for a specific entry time.
    If you are planning a visit please check the official web site for the latest information.
    Anyway.
    Founded in 1949 and now a UNESCO world heritage site the park hosts over a million visitors each year.
    We had a nice (if a bit soggy) 18K walk around the park and it's many waterfalls. quite the place !!!

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    Next stop will be Zadar
    #65
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  6. Cal

    Cal Long timer

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    Fellow Calgarian following along. I started my eastern europe trip from Gradec/Vrbovec Croatia where I picked up a local 2006 Suzuki 1200 Bandit from a friend I met here in Calgary, he is Croatian and lived here for 7 years. Never made it to Plitvice Park, looks nice! I mostly rode the coast and Island hopped on many ferries. Do you plan to go into Bosnia? Mostar and Sarajevo are a must see. I did 16 countries in 3 months(only 11,000km). Camped for 50% of the nights which allowed me to see many fabulous locations. Love the report.
    #66
  7. AMEretired

    AMEretired Been here awhile Supporter

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    Cal
    Thanks, its always nice to know someone is looking at the trip.
    This leg is Croatia only, no further down than Split. In September the plan, such as it is, will take us through a portion of Bosnia, further South in Croatia and then ???
    Mike
    #67
  8. Cal

    Cal Long timer

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    We can get together for a beer when you get home, I have a total of 6 months riding in Europe in the last 3 years. Ask around at some of the bike shops about biker rallies there is usually lots in Croatia. Croatians speak good English! Lots of Pekeras to eat from!
    #68
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  9. AMEretired

    AMEretired Been here awhile Supporter

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    Or rather in Diklo which is just outside of Zadar.

    From Wikipedia
    Zadar is the oldest continuously-inhabited Croatian city. It is situated on the Adriatic Sea, at the northwestern part of Ravni Kotari region. Zadar serves as the seat of Zadar County and of the wider northern Dalmatian region. The city proper covers 25 km2 (9.7 sq mi) with a population of 75,082 in 2011, making it the second-largest city of the region of Dalmatia and the fifth-largest city in the country.
    It was bombed by the Allies in the second world war and was under siege and shelled during the Croatian war of independence.
    Today, Zadar is a historical center of Dalmatia, Zadar County's principal political, cultural, commercial, industrial, educational, and transportation centre

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    A beautiful place to call home for the next week.

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    It warms my heart to see Shelley this happy !!
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    Sella cared for always. No Sella no trip.
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    All quiet for now, not so in another month.
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    Everywhere the very new
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    Along side the very old.
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    Very cool when your back yard
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    Lines up with your boat ramp.
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    #69
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  10. AMEretired

    AMEretired Been here awhile Supporter

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    May 10th
    Day ride from Diklo to Senj.
    We have had (are having) some crap weather but this day was spectacular !!!

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    I like the new GoPro Mount. I may swing it forward to center more as it looks a bit like we are riding down the middle of the road. That will require another flat Mount which I do not have at the moment.



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    #70
  11. bout2ride

    bout2ride Been here awhile Supporter

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    great report, the new go pro seems a lot better. I am literally right behind you, I arrived at Dolby's place yesterday. have to get the bike sorted out and hit the road Monday.
    #71
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  12. AMEretired

    AMEretired Been here awhile Supporter

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    There are something over 1000 islands in Croatia, one is called Pag island. Pag is the fifth largest island of the Croatian coast and is known for salt production, wine , lamb and of course cheese. The most famous cheese is Paski Sir made from sheep milk.
    The Pag sheep graze on the aromatic vegetation, this one of a kind diet making their milk very fat, permeating the taste of Paski Sir.Maintenance of the artisan methods in producing the distinctively flavored recipe is another strict condition for the manufacturing of Paski Sir.
    Ok,so that is the Wiki info, but is it any good? Hell yes!! If you get the chance please try Paski Sir and some of the other variaties of Pag cheese.
    Pay also has a long history, of course it does, everything here does.
    The coast and the islands, including the island of Pag, were already inhabited during the Neolithic age. More (much) more recently during the homeland war Pag was the only connection between northern and southern part of Croatia.
    Crossing the bridge into Pag island is a bit like landing on another planet. One minute lush and green and the next rocky and barren. Large rocks scattered everywhere, some of which you soon realize are sheep as they are the same color as the rocks.



    After visiting the home of Paski Sir we have a better understanding of the work required by the factory and,of course, by the sheep.
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    Dressed for the occasion
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    The factory uses considerable technology but cheesemaking on Pag is still very much a hands-on affair. The sheep are milked outdoors by hand, that must be fun considering the Bura winds. In this room, as the cheese ripens, each roll is turned by hand each week.
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    #72
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  13. Uetliberg

    Uetliberg There you go...

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    Seems we stayed at the same guesthouse. Though they did move the bench and table since June last year.
    Enjoy your trip, I'll be following along!
    kroatische Meisterdiebin.jpg
    #73
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  14. AMEretired

    AMEretired Been here awhile Supporter

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    A different area of island Pag finds much more vegetation and old (very) walls of stone in abundance.
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    It's a nice little ride from Kolan over to Mandre on the West coast.


    What an incredibly peaceful place for a coffee stop!!!!!
    In full on vacation season this would be a very different picture.
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    I do not see Shelley this relaxed often enough.
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    #74
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  15. AMEretired

    AMEretired Been here awhile Supporter

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    So where, or rather when, the heck am I up to here. May 13, 2019
    Not bad I guess as I am making this entry on the 21st. Trying to keep up with it better while we are still on the road but have to take my hat off once again to those who can be on the road and keep up with a report, or a blog or both :clap
    Anyway, on with it. On a rainy day a walk into Zadar, wander, eat, drink and walk back. All in all quite nice day !!
    Self serve car wash, only the inattentive may apply.
    In North America we would close the road, drain the water and build an overpass, ok perhaps not quite that (but almost). Here they just put up a sign and please stay on the road, better I think.
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    Really?? In Zadar?? Part of a sad love story if I have that right.
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    The Zadar sea organ. Very cool.


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    Ruins
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    Built on a foundation of even earlier ruins. Bloody amazing
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    Up the bell tower we went.
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    This was notable, not only for the great views, but also because the bell tolled just as Shelley took the first step down which definitely drew a reaction (or 2).
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    #75
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  16. AMEretired

    AMEretired Been here awhile Supporter

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    That is as much of the ride report that I managed while on the road, not too bad I think.
    May 14 and we wanted to visit the town of NIN, the salt museum and the town.
    We made it to the salt museum, the wind was up but manageable. We would have enjoyed a bit more time at the small museum but the weather chased us out.
    Some interesting old machines on display.
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    As in all farming the weather has a say. A nice dry summer delivers salt, a wet summer will not let the pans dry out delivering no salt.
    So, why let the weather chase us away, Bora wind is the answer. The Bora wind along the Adriatic coast is not to be dismissed lightly. When we headed for Nin the alert was yellow for Bora wind, this was upgraded to Orange as we arrived. That level can be quite interesting, so we turned and ran.
    On the way into Nin we saw the result of the last days wind, broken trees and some road signs blown down, not usually too interesting but these signs were pulled out even though they were set into concrete-filled tires and then buried in the ground.

    As we rode back toward Zadar the wind abated a bit and a winery sign appeared. That improved the day quite a lot :)
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    Wines were tasted, wine supply was replenished before riding back to Diklo feeling much better about the day. Perhaps we will visit Nin again one day.
    In the evening calmer weather was enjoyed.
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    Mandatory cat fix applied.
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    A sunset was enjoyed.
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    And then dinner was enjoyed.
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    Just one of those days that start out to be not great and then surprise you :)
    #76
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  17. Cal

    Cal Long timer

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    My friend in Zagreb was saying the weather has been bad this spring, he is a farmer and his crops are not all in because of the wet fields.
    #77
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  18. AMEretired

    AMEretired Been here awhile Supporter

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    This nice little Fiat belongs to a young neighbor.
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    May 15 dawned sunny and warm(ish)
    Ugljan island is 24km long, 4km wide at its widest and makes a great day trip as its only a 25 minute boat ride from Zadar.

    Our ride for the day. Choosing a return time is made easy as the ferry ticket includes an open return . Makes a very relaxing day.
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    Trivia.
    The island is named after the Croatian word for olive (ulje) , was first mentioned under its present name in 1325 and the continuity of population dates back to the Neolithic.
    We had time for one nice hike (walk) and decided on walking up to the fortress of Sv. Mihovil, (St. Michael) which is located on the highest point of the island at 249 meters. Access is via a paved, steep road that takes an hour or so to walk.
    This ancient fort is best known now for its location which provides an incredible panoramic view. In this way it did not disappoint.

    Shelley is always happy on a boat, any boat.
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    looking back at Zadar
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    Looking a bit closer. This is the best photo I have showing the wind dropping down out of the mountains. The Bura wind which is a katabatic wind.
    From the internet.
    A katabatic wind (named from the Greek word κατάβασις katabasis, meaning "descending") is the technical name for a drainage wind, a wind that carries high-density air from a higher elevation down a slope under the force of gravity. Such winds are sometimes also called fall winds; the spelling catabatic winds also occurs. Katabatic winds can rush down elevated slopes at hurricane speeds, but most are not as intense as that, and many are of the order of 10 knots (18 km/h) or less.

    Cool and fun until its not.
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    It is a fair little walk from the ferry port to the fortress.
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    But truly worth it.
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    The view from the top at Saint Michael's fortress


    The view on the way down was not too shabby either.
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    Scruffy (and very lucky) old guy with the light of my life.
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    Happy day!!
    #78
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  19. Cal

    Cal Long timer

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    Nice view from the fortress....to bad they had to put that communication tower there!
    #79
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  20. AMEretired

    AMEretired Been here awhile Supporter

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    So where to next?
    How about Trogir. The next morning (late) found us riding from Zadar (actually Diklo) to Trogir (actually Ciovo)
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    Trogir is the port even though it is just a rather small island. Ciovo island is considerably larger and was where we stayed.
    Trogir, however, has 2300 years of continuous urban tradition. Its culture was created under the influence of the ancient Greeks, and then the Romans, and Venetians. Trogir also has a high concentration of palaces, churches, and towers, as well as a fortress on a small island.
    In 1997 Trogir was inscribed in the Unesco World Heritage list.
    We had initially planned to stay in Split but decided on the smaller town. We would visit Split as a day trip and also use its ferry port.
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    The view from our deck on Ciovo was not at all hard to take.


    Also not a bad place to lift a glass or two.
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    Our host went above and beyond providing Sella with her own garage space.
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    We decided that Trogir was going to be a place to relax, walk, visit Split, ride a little and visit with a new friend.
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    Mid May and still no real crowds, nice, very nice.
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    We headed off to Split for the day. The plan was to take the bus one way and find a ferry the other.
    After some initial confusion we found the correct bus to Split and headed off for a visit (being tourist).
    The bus to Split from Trogir was cheap, saved on parking and only took around 40 minutes, highly recommended.
    Split is the second largest Croatian city with a population of around 200,000.
    As tourists in Split we had to see the Diocletian Palace - once.

    From the internet.
    Diocletian's palace s an ancient palace built for the Roman Emperor Diocletian at the turn of the fourth century AD, that today forms about half the old town of Split, Croatia. While it is referred to as a "palace" because of its intended use as the retirement residence of Diocletian, the term can be misleading as the structure is massive and more resembles a large fortress: about half of it was for Diocletian's personal use, and the rest housed the military garrison.

    Modern version of singing for your supper, we sing you buy our cd.


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    4th century. 4TH CENTURY
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    The old town may be touristy but also quite beautiful
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    Always interesting bikes around,
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    After a little searching we found that the Bura line had an early evening ferry back to Trogir, yay
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    A little cool perhaps but certainly a highlight of our day.
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    #80
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