Mongolia to Magadan: Any which (the hard) way

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by ChrisUK, Mar 13, 2014.

  1. ChrisUK

    ChrisUK Been here awhile

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    Ch16 Jet-skiing, breaking the law and a stay at the hospital...





    Again, TURN UP THE VOLUME. Another compilation video. Suggested titles for the different bits:


    • Dodging the trains
    • Getting the mask and flippers out
    • The relentless dodgy road bridges needing to be negotiated
    • Brighty breaking the law to get onto the Olyokma River Bridge. Although I did straighten the post afterwards and when we got to the other side the guards were totally cool



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    Panto season: He's behind you!


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    I think we'll let him go first…


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    Sh!te parking job, blocking the whole road!








    More compilation. Captions:

    • Finally the opportunity for Felix to get stuck, rather than me
    • This bridge really gave me the willies!
    • Using big words like "perpendicular" and landing on my ar$e!





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    Will this bridge still be standing next year?


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    We arrived in Yuktali but could find neither accommodation, nor fuel. People were friendly and helpful, but we seemed on a wild goose chase for both these necessities. A lady in a shop told us to follow a little lad on a pushbike. He led us to the hospital, where we were introduced to the friendly ambulance driver (on the right). We got the gist that we should come back at 6pm. We did and he allowed us to park the bikes in the garage and we slept in a hospital room! Dinner was bread and salami and crisps and beer from the shop in town. There were neither patients, nor doctors/nurses. Next morning when the admin staff arrived (still no patients…), we paid a nominal amount and I even got a receipt.

    The ambulance driver then told us to follow him to the train station to get benzin. While waiting for the big railway station boss to arrive, we took the opportunity to admire the cut of his secretary's miniskirt and take pictures in the corridor:


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    The Olyokma Bridge before it was repaired


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    The hazards involved in crossing a railway line on a red signal...


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    Mr Wright is stuck, rather than me, for once!


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    Even the rain stopped and the sun came out


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    I recon this sign says "Trespassers will be prosecuted"



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    The map of the last western BAM section towards Tynda
    Eskapada.moto likes this.
  2. PHILinFRANCE

    PHILinFRANCE Long timer

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    Loving this Chris :clap
  3. ang

    ang Been here awhile

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    Great report Chris, keep it coming!
  4. Dr. Benny

    Dr. Benny Enjoying the Journey

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  5. ChrisUK

    ChrisUK Been here awhile

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    Ch 17 The ride into Tynda or... THE CLEAN BOYS MEET THE DIRTY BOYS

    Around Lopcha my bike started seriously misbehaving, but I managed to slowly limp into Tynda. We eventually arrived at 11pm. All the downhill bits I free wheeled with no electrics, nor motor and Felix behind me with his lights on high beam and me making sure my shadow didn't ride off the road in the corners!

    On the main drag through town, while looking for the hotel, 2 guys flagged us down. THE DIRTY BOYS: A Russian and a Romanian biker who had started off in Magadan and had ridden the New Federal version of the Road of Bones, where apparently their bikes (sheds) were unsuitable, and had considered the BAM, but were now just going to slab it to Moscow.

    Why did we christen them the DIRTY BOYS (from now on and for ever in UPPER CASE!!!!). They flatly refused to believe we had ridden the BAM. Why? Because we were too clean! :D So, apart that it was nearly midnight and they couldn't really verify our cleanliness or not under a dim streetlight and they weren't aware of the effects of rain and standing water on motor vehicles, I must now admit that this entire ride report is a fake and all the images are photoshopped and the videos cgi-ed.

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    Felix has a puncture. The other thing I was glad I bought in Severobaykalsk, in addition to the tow-rope, was a big mutha of a foot pump, like the one Peter Berry had. It saved our bacon on more than one occasion!


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    Look and learn, look and learn


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    Moody mist


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    More atmospheric stuff


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    Getting our old tubes repaired at a Tynda tyre wallah. We also ate and (particularly) drank very well.


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    I desperate needed a new back tyre. The one I was running would definitely not make it to Magadan. We flagged down a biker and he helped us find a jet wash (and oxymoronic concept, considering our bikes weren't dirty :norton ) and then took me tyre hunting…

    …Without any luck, so we ended up back at his bike club house. There I spotted a used Chinese MX tyre on about 1/2 life. He called the owner who said yes and I was hugely relieved.

    In the clubhouse where were some sport bikes parked. How odd: Do they really have flag holders? “For club pendants at rallies?”, I genuinely thought.


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    Upon closer inspection: No, for baseball bats... I didn't know baseball was so popular in Far Eastern Siberia :evil Or maybe there were for catching car drivers' attention when they have just cut you up...


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    I took this at the street sign on the way out of Tynda with a message to remember the great motorcycle traveller Eric Haws of Oregon, USA who passed away just over a year ago. Eric and his lovely wife Gail blazed the trails that other mere mortals followed. In the 1980s, when Siberia was part of the Soviet Union, they were the first to ride the Road of Bones and the western BAM, 2 up, on an airhead Beemer!

    Their Tynda website is no longer published. There's more information at http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hubb/gone-but-not-forgotten/eric-haws-has-passed-away-70631

    RIP Eric
  6. Blader54

    Blader54 Long timer

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    No photos of the miniskirted secretary? Dang. Awesome report!:clap
  7. Gazz

    Gazz In a rut

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    Just great stuff again Chris:clap
  8. *kartman*

    *kartman* GO Bacon GO !

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    Stunning ride report, keep going :clap
  9. Lupin 3rd

    Lupin 3rd Raygun Gothic

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    Probably non-existent, like the mud on their bikes...

    ;)

    Awesome ride report!

    Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
  10. ChrisUK

    ChrisUK Been here awhile

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    Many thanks for the kind words. :D Much appreciated. Unfortunately some of the evidence, like meeting the train on the bridge, or capo di capo of Yuktali's shunting yard's secretary is missing. Will try harder next time.:evil
  11. live2ridetahoe

    live2ridetahoe BSN, RN, CEN, TCRN, MICN

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    Amazing trip guys. I just picked up some of the AdvSpec panniers for an upcoming trip to Mongolia. How are you attaching them to the bike?

    JG
  12. ChrisUK

    ChrisUK Been here awhile

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    Both bikes have racks. The 2 bags attach to each other and hang over the seat and lie on the racks. On each bag I used a ratchet strap vertically and a bungee horizontally around the bag and rack. (That was until I needed the bungee to help hold the silencer on after a weld broke :evil . Then I only had a vertical strap on the left side.)
  13. live2ridetahoe

    live2ridetahoe BSN, RN, CEN, TCRN, MICN

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    Thanks ChrisUK. That is a big help.

    Cheers,

    JG
  14. AteamNM

    AteamNM Wonna Be ADVrider

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    :lurk

    Hey I've missed you Chris. Just went through 4 pages of excellence. All caught up. Damn good stuff sir. Thank you.
  15. stack11

    stack11 n00b

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    How to make a man weep!! THANKS!!

    What a great trip Chris!! :clap:clap
  16. ChrisUK

    ChrisUK Been here awhile

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    Glad you like my pictures and mutterings.



    Wow Matthew. A inmate since 2007 and your maiden post is this comment! I hope it's not tears of pain!

    Recognise these geezers?

    2010 in Colorado...

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  17. ChrisUK

    ChrisUK Been here awhile

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    Ch 18 The road from Tynda to Yakutsk: DIRTY... Actually just dusty, straight and boring, with some construction thrown in to break the monotony


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    Just as we're about to ride out of the Tynda hotel gate, my bike won't start. In fact there are no electrics at all when I turn the key. Captain Carpark turns out to be a nice man an allow Felix to use his soldering machine on the connectors on the ignition switch


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    Aldan is half way between Tynda and Yakutsk (which are about 1000km apart). We're in hysterics when we see the pictures on the wall in the hotel reception. Recognise them? Felix pays homage...


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    The Sibirsky Extreme Team Sibirsky Extreme | Going where no motorcycle has been before In the middle picture we recognise the chief guru of all things fun in Siberia and Mongolia Mr W Colebatch and the demon dirtbiker Mr Terrance Brown. A local bloke (newspaper journalist?!) took their pictures.


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    Said man with the camera took our pics the next day too. If anyone passes Aldan, please look in at the hotel if the mugs of Felix and my good self are there too :)


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    The ride really was hot, dusty and boring. My mp3 player pumping out the entire back catalogue of Johnny Cash and Hank Williams Jnr made it vaguely bearable.

    Here (DIRTY) Felix takes a break in the shade offered by a (pleasant) trucker fixing puctures. These guys are so hard-working. I remember the help that Yevgeny and Todor gave me when I was in deep dudu on the Transalp on the BAM


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    Hard at work


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    DIRTY Bright and the black cat. I used to be the part-owner of 2 black cats in the UK. Both were called Dave! It's impossible to get a name wrong if you give twins (actually not related: you could tell them apart as one was fat from eating the other slim one's food) the same name! Here is their Siberian cousin Sibersky-Dave.


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    On the car ferry across the Lena river (much wider now than it was at Irkutsk)


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    The former clean (fake) adventure biker was temporarily real and DIRTY, now he's fake again ;)


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    Mr V I Lenin shows the way, looking over the main square in downtown Yakutsk
  18. ChrisUK

    ChrisUK Been here awhile

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    Ch 19 Leaving Yakutsk, and an involuntary return (For You Herr Wright, zee journey is over!)

    Yakutsk is a great place to hang out, but we only had 2 nights here. Our time schedule was very tight, particularly if we were going to attempt the Old Summer Road section of the Road of Bones. Still plenty of time to dope up on pizza, burgers and beer. I also got myself a haircut. Not a mullet though...


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    A concert in the main square.



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    Snoozing on the ferry back across the mighty Lena river



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    No idea that's going on there. Hare Krishna outing?



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    A BMW and a Honda Transalp. You can tell by the logo on the fairing...



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    Nice views on a nice day. It wouldn't last long



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    Wow, a local biker. Nope! Phil Kirk from Australia on a 1983 Jawa 250 2 smoke. Riding from Magadan to London to attend a conference. His Australian employer was paying his transport to get there. Most use the money to buy an air ticket. He used it on freight from Brisbane to Magadan as well as petrol and 2 stroke oil!



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    Phil and the bike made it to London, with barely a hitch. Might be worth considering alternative choices of vehicle when planning long distance travel. It doesn't need to be a real (or faux) "adventure" market niche junket with bling out of the catalogue. I bumped into Phil again on the highway near Irkutsk. I had flown from Magadan to Irkutsk and was riding the Mark I to Mongolia to freight/fly it/me home.



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    Wot the sign sez



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    The statue to match the sign




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    For You Herr Wright, zee journey is over! Felix was waiting for me as I'm riding a bit slower. My steering head bearings and fork seals are fuct. Nothing compared to Felix's bike mishap though. He had noticed that his rear auxilliary tank was leaking petrol. After attempting to seal it, we had a closer look at why it was punctured. The chain had hit it. Broken shock? No. Cracked swingarm? Yes.

    I'll only say that it wasn't a BMW manufacturing or design issue or caused by any sort of crash when Felix was riding the bike. I know too much about the real reason why it broke, but I think Felix should comment as he sees fit.



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    Help was at hand to start 200km the journey back to Yakutsk



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    Loading the bike onto the next truck. Felix putting a brave face on it. He must have been totally gutted.

    I started riding back to Yakutsk too, while Felix followed in the truck, but then the rain started and it got really slippery. It got dark too, so we loaded my bike into the back as well. By 1am we manage to get into a hotel near the Yakutsk ferry terminal. What a day and night!
  19. Garry H

    Garry H Been here awhile

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    Excellent report :clap

    We came across Phil in the UK and had a good old chat with him ...What a star...The MZ still looking like new

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  20. ChrisUK

    ChrisUK Been here awhile

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    Wow, what a small world! Then again, people who frequent websites like this one and do trips like us are all easily connected. And it's a MZ as you say, not a Jawa as I suggested. As it was dirty in Siberia, I couldn't spot the difference. Thant's my excuse and I'm sticking to it :evil Phil is a top bloke.