Mongolia to Tajikistan, alone on the Sibirsky Extreme Trail.

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by willmaniac, Sep 8, 2017.

  1. willmaniac

    willmaniac Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 21, 2015
    Oddometer:
    29
    Location:
    Melbourne
    Arriving in Ulaanbaatar I did what every adventure motorcyclist does in "UB" and headed straight to the Oasis. Fried food, honestly beer fridge and a door into the mechanics. It really is an oasis for its guests who have driven, riden or cycled from Europe . But I was heading in the opposite direction having flown from Australia shipping my bike months in advance.

    Every story needs a hero . The mighty Suzuki DRZ400E.
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    Turns out the lead time wasn't long enough and the train carrying the bike the last leg of the journey from china was delayed, then customs robbed another 3 days plus the weekend ofcourse!

    In the mean time I hired a little Honda bought a very shit map and headed east into the Gorkhi-Terelj National Park.

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    First night I decided to get creative with my free camping on top of a hill, 3G was a suprise bonus . My tent was shipped with the bike but luckly drive mongolia the rental company lent me one, A holed flimsy one! That first afternoon then into the night I experienced my first Mongolian storm that would become a regular accourance. Lighting thunder rain rolled down the valley and nearly blew me off the hill.

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    The next day I rode around in circles before learning a valuable lesson in Mongolian off-road navigation . Maps are useless, follow a heading and just choose the intersection that seems to fit best . If the track starts turning in the wrong different at the next maze intersection have another go !

    Mongolia is a total riders paradise if you didn't know. Endless tracks no fences and the locals are happy for you to be ripping it up .

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    Local kid wanted to race my red pony. I won ..

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    Another mountain top camping spot luckly no storm that night.

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    Before heading up to set up camp I met a group of Kazakh ameture photographers who snaped off afew hundred photos.

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    No idea why Honda didn't put a spring tip on.

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    After 5 days I headed back to the city and after a battle with customs I had my pride and joy ! Now the real adventure could start.

    Walter colbatch was kind enough to send me a track. From Ulaanbaatar to Almaty the hard way 5800km of his finest. Riding solo I was glad to be following the pink line on my gps mostly, not having to worry about the mongol navigation. Legend.

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    Straight out of the city and onto the dirt Walters track was no joke. 6 - 8 hours a day was the norm, this is going to be a challenge especially solo.

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    My first Mongolian outhouse experience. This turned out to be one of the better ones !

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    Heavy rains turned the valley into a mud bath. Mongolian roads are terrible at the best of times. Add water and it's bloody hard work . I was hold you cannot get up the valley the rivers are too high. Sounded like a challenge.

    Hmm maybe they are right

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    To far in now keep pushing.

    Locals also love a challenge. They beef up the suspension in there 2wd cars pile gear on the roof racks, and have a crack driving anywhere while holidaying. Getting stuck doesn't seem a big deal they just get on with it . 13 percent of all cars are Priuses due to low taxes and cheap second hand imports from Japan. They are everywhere.

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    Didn't take long for the rough roads to start taking a toll.

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    It took me afew days but I got the curourage to ask a nomadic family if I could set up camp beside them . Well I did the universal sleep hand signal . And what a great experience it was . It was 3 young family's all related I gather living off the land. We played with the children until dark then all 15 of us ate dinner then cracked open the vodka.

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    Challenges on the road. Around every corner in Mongolia.

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    This is Khar Nuur (lake) and it was epic . After a week it was also washing day.

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    Interested locals . They loved me tearing up there dunes . Thumbs up , nice change from being treated like a criminal for riding a dirtbike
    in Australia.

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    Road side oil change after the drouning incident . The guy was suprised the oil looked clean. Through charades I told him the bike went under water but by the looks not much water got into the oil. He refused payment for his oil disposal service and im sure that oil is now circulating again in a car or a bike.

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    Another stay with the locals. They invited me in for yak yogurt which was a challenge for someone who doesn't like yogurt !

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    We then played a game where they guessed my age writing numbers in the sand . Then I had to guess all theirs. Was good entertainment!

    That night the two oldest sons waded across the river and spent the night with there goats, sleeping on grain bags. All the hearders seems very concerned with there neighbours stealing their livestock. I could hear the boys laughing and carrying on when I woke it the middle of the night. The whole family loved their way off life I could tell. In the morning when I opened my tent the eldest who was the trouble maker was sitting just outside the tent flap looking in, very creepy !The daughter.

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    Her and the boys are keen to be nomads and defently don't want to live in the city when they grown up they said.

    The towns have a very frontier feel to them. Dusty streets and usually a drunk hanging around out the front of the store. Places to grab supplies and leave !

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    Mongolian freeway! No joke.

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    One of the only houses I saw outside of the Villages that wasn’t a Ger and that was fenced.

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    Have to stop for a photo here. The arch is located not too far from Khar Nuur.

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    Last Kay's to the Russian boarder. Photos below is taken just outside the town of Ölgii. According to the lonely planet 90 percent of the locals out this way are Kazakhs. Travelling Mongolians liken coming here to visiting another country. Felt like another planet to me !

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    After 15 big days of riding it was time to leave Mongolia . The friendliest people you will meet and amazing terrain for a bike. My time here was too short I will be back. Next Russia.
    #1
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  2. dceggert

    dceggert Been here awhile

    Joined:
    May 22, 2006
    Oddometer:
    519
    Location:
    Metro Detroit - almost like offroad riding
    Hopefully your image links can be fixed. Looking forward to seeing this part of the world!
    #2
  3. JoeBiker25

    JoeBiker25 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 23, 2014
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    175
    Location:
    Gilroy, CA
    Pics work fine for me!
    Great photography in an amazing country!
    #3
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  4. Joezeph

    Joezeph Been here awhile

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    Jun 18, 2017
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    AR
    Good for you young fella, what a freakin' epic trip to do by yourself, you must have balls bigger than a 10ft 'roo!!!
    #4
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  5. dirtrider

    dirtrider Dusty Adventurer

    Joined:
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    Kalispell, Montana
    Excellent so far.
    #5
  6. levain

    levain STILL Jim Williams Supporter

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    Providence, RI
    Pictures didn't work last night but do now. Amazing. I can't wait to follow in your footsteps someday
    #6
  7. moto74

    moto74 displaced

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    ^^As above. Great pictures and trip!
    #7
  8. Switchglide12

    Switchglide12 Been here awhile

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    Somewhere in NJ
    Having been to most of stan's, I can agree with you. They are the nicest people you ever meet. Great hospitality. I love their fermented milk (kimiz).
    #8
  9. rider1150gsadv

    rider1150gsadv Long timer

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    In for this one! :lurk
    #9
  10. Stretch67

    Stretch67 Mad Scientist Supporter

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    Very envious.
    #10
  11. Romero

    Romero At Cinépolis or OXXO

    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2016
    Oddometer:
    510
    Location:
    Morelia
    Cool! after this RR and @ExodusRider report.hmmmmm might need to get that way!
    #11
  12. mattscott

    mattscott Been here awhile

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    Dec 17, 2008
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    Ridgway Colorado
    This is wicked inspiration


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    #12
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  13. BELSTAFF

    BELSTAFF ADV NOMAD

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    I'm in for the duration
    #13
  14. achesley

    achesley Old Motorcyclist

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    Location:
    Jennings, Louisiana
    Beautiful pictures and narration. Love reports from that area of the world. Thanks for the work of letting us ride with you.
    #14
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  15. Space_man

    Space_man Been here awhile

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    Sandhills
    Great start! Can't wait for the rest. In.
    #15
  16. bungen

    bungen Been here awhile

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    Great stuff! Stay safe.
    #16
  17. severely

    severely almost a noob

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    odessa MO/donna TX
    EPIC, keep it rolling.
    #17
  18. lachie

    lachie Drunk

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    Subscribed
    #18
  19. live2ridetahoe

    live2ridetahoe BSN, RN, CEN, TCRN, MICN

    Joined:
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    Concord, CA
    Subscribed!! Mongolia is a magical place. I remember that arch from the Russian's Mongolian thread. Impressive. Learning how to navigate in Mongolia can be a fun challenge.

    I can't wait to get back.


    Tahoe
    #19
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  20. moto74

    moto74 displaced

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    Bump :twitch
    #20