Montenegro->Bosnia->Croatia, borders and some other questions

Discussion in 'EMEA' started by Avispao, Jun 25, 2018.

  1. Avispao

    Avispao Hornet 900 Adventurer

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    Hi, i'm planning to spend some days in Croatia this august. I'm arriving to Bar, Montenegro in a ferry from Italy in the morning, and then i'm going to go up to Budva, Kotor, Herceg Novi and finally to Dubrovnik to pass a few days based near there.

    2nd day is to visit Dubrovnik and relaxing.
    3rd day is to go to Mostar and back to Dubrovnik.
    4th day is to make this loop (optional) https://goo.gl/maps/PVoeeQwuFe72
    5th day is to go to Korçula, and then to Split to continue north the next days.

    Q.
    - Are the borders closed at night?

    - Would be any problem at any of the borders? How long do they take.
    A friend of mine did Dubrovnik - Mostar - Dubrovnik 6 years ago and he couldn't cross back to Croatia in a border and had to go back to Neum to cross.

    - How is that M20 road in Bosnia? I have a road naked bike, i wouldn't like to find gravel nor big potholes. I can see streetview in Montenegro, but not in Bosnia.

    - Is any part of the jadranska magistrala a must and any part avoidable? I'm going to ride most part of it, but i don't want to miss the best part. In Zadar i'm going to Plitvice, and then to Rijeka, so i'm going to miss that part. Is that part so special over the others that i don't have to miss?

    Thank you very much.
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  2. Herman1

    Herman1 Been here awhile

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    A lot of questions but here goes with what little I know.
    If there are more than two cruise liners in Dubrovnik avoid at all cost, go back late afternoon when they have cleared off. The walk round the walls is a rip off don't bother. You get a superb view of the old city from the road above it just head for the cable car station and old fort, dodgy turn off the road. Same for Mostar they bus the tourists up to the old bridge for the divers but it clears a bit by late afternoon . Don't park near the old town you will get charged for it but its not that far to walk from say the sniper tower. I know of a good air bnb just outside Dubrovnik if needed.
    We crossed the border at Neum late but not early hours, watch for the speed traps in the villages on the D8.
    On a bike que jump.
    The road from Dubrovnik to Mostar is really good, then really boring in the valley floor , then really good. We came back via any hills we could find and had far more fun surfaces were good generally.
    Take a look at Obrovac as you are close , there is a nice gravel road over the mountains from there towards Plitvice btw.
    The D8 is awesome but can be awash with campers in August so we do a bit then cut inland onto the cheap and empty toll road to make a bit of progress. Hope that helps have a good ride.
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  3. glitch_oz

    glitch_oz Long timer

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    If going to Korcula, here's an alternative way to Split: https://goo.gl/rto5mT

    info: https://goo.gl/yQszhg




    That the one? https://goo.gl/pRdKnm
    Via Mali Alan and those old Spaghetti-Western movie locations?
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  4. Herman1

    Herman1 Been here awhile

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    Yep that's the one, the tarmac runs out just past the tunnel. My riding buddy did it on a VFR800 after seeing my happy face upon finding a gravel mountain pass, he is a good mate! Minefield signs abound but I reckon the sheep have found them by now?
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  5. Teabar

    Teabar Been here awhile

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    2 things:
    Your day 4 loop. Why go all that way and ride straight past Durmitor National Park? On your map take the road due east of Pluzine and ride to Zabljak (nice little town) and it will take you right through the park. It's a beautiful place.
    Secondly, when riding from Zadar to Plitvice are you taking the coast road between Starigrad/Paklenica to Karlobag? You should as it's one of the best (most beautiful) roads I've ever ridden. Your toe is practically in the water. Past Karlobag the road starts to climb into the slopes of the Velebit(?) mountains. The road surface was fantastic (4 years ago), you can move at a fast pace if you want and you always had a view of the Adriatic. From Senj you could double back slightly to find Plitvice. I would definitely recommend riding this whole stretch but if you could do only part of it you really should ride the road between Starigrad and Karlobag.
    Whatever you choose have fun. Maybe we'll bump into you in a couple of weeks. I can't wait :-)
    Steve
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  6. Teabar

    Teabar Been here awhile

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    And I would recommend a half day in Dubrovnik and a half day about 13 miles south in Cavtat. Cavtat is a really nice experience after the madness of Dubrovnik.
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  7. glitch_oz

    glitch_oz Long timer

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    I'm with Teabar...it's a shame to run north in Bosnia while the most scenic part is along Piva Lake/ Gorge, being in Montenegro.
    Also a big yes on the P14 through the Dormitor National Park to Zabljak and more prime scenic stuff down the P5
    https://goo.gl/Vxt3hG

    Even better would be to skip the long commutes and shorten the time in Dubrovnik, adding some more time to the Montenegro loop for places like this?
    https://goo.gl/jdR1xj

    Another MUST! https://goo.gl/ds9Nzp

    [​IMG]
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  8. Herman1

    Herman1 Been here awhile

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    View above Dubrovnik which is just to the rear of my bike. If you are brave there are gravel trails snaking their way back down. [​IMG]DSC01014 by herman munster, on Flickr
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  9. Avispao

    Avispao Hornet 900 Adventurer

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    I know it would be better in another season but we have the time we have. We have no way to change dates and the hours we will reach each place would be by luck.

    Do they charge for parking a bike too? :eek:

    Nope, i want to ride the coastal road the more as possible. In any case, i thought beforehand we can jump to Hvar and then take the ferry to Split.

    Does anybody know if it's more worthy the coastal road than Hvar, in terms of riding and views?


    Pluzine to east - yes, i know it is a possibility and to reach the Tara Bridge to see it. But I have to think about it because that makes the route much bigger and my significant other could kill me. 9h on the bike, you know.

    Starigrad/Paklenica to Karlobag - I'd like to, but that doubles the time. If we want to walk the 6 hours trail in Plitvice, that is going to be a problem. But i really have thought about going to Senj and then north from Plitvice.

    In fact we have made a reservation in Catvat for 4 nights. My idea is to get the ferry to enter Dubrovnik from the sea, and take the bus to get back to Catvat when we get tired. That way we can forget about the bike, the helmets, the long trousers and that all shitty things when you are visiting a town.

    I already knew about that monastry. But perhaps it will be too much for a day.
    10h - almost no difference between going north through Bosnia or throught Montenegro.
    https://goo.gl/maps/B8Rfpp5fwwF2

    Sveti Jure writed down. If we have time while we were doing that strecht

    No thanks, no trails. A Hornet 900 with 2 up, cases and pilot roads 2.
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  10. Teabar

    Teabar Been here awhile

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    You've obviously put a lot of thought into this and you're going to have a great time. In terms of the Korcula/Hvar/Coast road debate I would say that I road the whole coast road from Dubrovnik to the north and I like Glitch's suggestion as the stretch you would miss was pretty busy as I remember it. You could ride the coast stretch to the north of Split through Trogir and Primosten (really nice town) up to Zadar. It's a nice stretch. Whatever you choose you can't really go wrong and I wish you Buena suerte.
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  11. Herman1

    Herman1 Been here awhile

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    Do they charge for parking a bike too? In Mostar we did but we parked on private ground as one of the bikes had soft luggage and the parking attendant was going to watch out for it.....the attendants were all gone when we returned......same old I guess. The road up to the cable car is tarmac btw and the views are worth it.
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  12. glitch_oz

    glitch_oz Long timer

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    Thanks for that tip! Was about to send a pm and ask:beer
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  13. Avispao

    Avispao Hornet 900 Adventurer

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    I'm back. I couldn't make all the things i would like, in part because of the continuous traffic jam of the coast, from Montenegro to Split. August is horrible. I didn't enjoy almost any of the kilometers in Montenegro and south Croatia.

    I couldn't visit interior of Montenegro, but i had my placebo in an alternative route to Mostar. The roads were very good to ride: good tarmac, good scenery and twisted enough to enjoy but not so much to travel slow. It was nice and a pride to find old spanish signs from 25 years ago when our troops where there in NATO mission.
    https://goo.gl/maps/6xidoJ7yc5k

    I couldn't do the coast from Ploce to Split thanks to Jadrolinja. They cancelled "my" ferry because of "issues" and we had to wait for 2 hours for the next one. As i had a reservation in Trogir and it was 9pm when we arrived Ploce i had to take the motorway.

    I made Zadar-Karlobag-Gospic-Plitvice as @Teabar said, and it was one of the best rides i had there.
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  14. Teabar

    Teabar Been here awhile

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    I'm pleased you made time to ride the Zadar - Karlobag - Gospic - Plitvice route. Myself and my son rode the Gospic - Plitvice section for the first time a month back and we loved it. Much better than the walk around the park, for me :-) . Shame about Montenegro. Post some pics.
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  15. notsoslow

    notsoslow Been here awhile

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    Im thinking of flying over from Australia next may and doing a tour of this region, has anyone had any experience with motorcycle tour companies doing tours of the Balkans region?
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  16. glitch_oz

    glitch_oz Long timer

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    Just back last weekend after 3 weeks/ 4500k's with a bunch of Victorians.
    No tour company or guides, only home-baked stuff on hire-bikes out of Bucharest/ Romania.

    Just started the intro for the RR.
    Will keep scribbling away for the next few weeks once I've got some order in the 4500 pics from 6 cameras. :-)

    Qatar Air flies Doha from Sydney with one-stop connections to Zagreb/Sarajevo/ Bucharest/ Skopje etc.
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  17. Avispao

    Avispao Hornet 900 Adventurer

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    Hi again. I'm writing an RR but in spanish. Sorry, too much work in the job and no time to do all i would want. But i made a resume in video if you please.
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  18. Cal

    Cal Long timer

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    Gracias para el video Buenos recuerdos de los Balcanes Yo fui y maneje mi Suzuki 1200 Bandit por 3 meses hace un ano en Abril a el fin de Junio.
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