1. ADVRIDER Print Magazine!
    We're doing two more print magazines year. July & November. 144 pages of high quality adventure riding stories, photography and interviews!

    Click here to purchase both for $35.
    Dismiss Notice

Morocco - 5 Weeks in another century

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by tomcat9, May 3, 2021.

  1. Little Bike

    Little Bike Air/Clutz Sue Supporter

    Joined:
    May 13, 2012
    Oddometer:
    11,886
    Location:
    Oceanside CA
    Thanks for writing this up, I’ve been riding Morocco curious for awhile.
    #21
  2. zadok

    zadok Long timer

    Joined:
    Jul 8, 2007
    Oddometer:
    1,120
    Location:
    Western Australia
    Fascinating place :clap
    #22
  3. tomcat9

    tomcat9 Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2011
    Oddometer:
    121
    Location:
    El Paso, Tx
    Will it takes place this year? And if so, are you going?

    I am glad that I startet to share this ride report with all of you ... I am still in debt with all the reports I read already... :rofl
    #23
    Steve H. likes this.
  4. tomcat9

    tomcat9 Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2011
    Oddometer:
    121
    Location:
    El Paso, Tx
    Thanks, Morocco is a fascinating country.... I would say, go for it


    It truly is...
    #24
  5. tomcat9

    tomcat9 Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2011
    Oddometer:
    121
    Location:
    El Paso, Tx
    22. September



    We had our breakfast on the roof terrace again. After we were strengthened with coffee, eggs with bread and fresh orange juice, we took the motorbikes out of the garage and packed them up.

    If I remember correctly, Rasheed came by the evening before and wanted to collect his payment. He said that he arranged everything for us and that we have to pay him for it. Well, we actually fought to keep him from helping us, but we did give him something anyways.

    When we got the motorcycles out of the garage the next morning, he was back and wanted a present. What ??? He was thinking of Tom's sunglasses. I don't know if he knew these weren't $ 5 glasses or if that's why he wanted them as a gift. We then ignored that. He's been trying for a long time, but this time we stood firm.

    Bild 1.jpg

    Today should bring us to Errachidia via Ifrane. Ifrane National Park is known for its Berber monkeys. There is also a ski area in Ifrane. The city looks more like a European city than a Moroccan because of the gable roofs. There the upper social class comes to study and in winter to ski.

    When we had finished loading the bikes, we studied the map again and looked for the route to Ifrane. Then Rasheed came again and wanted the money for the garage. We had already paid the man with the garage and we took it with a sense of humor. He understood that there was probably no way to get any more money from us.


    We started in direction south from our riad minutes after 10:00 a.m.
    The road N8 should bring us to Ifrane. The first hour after leaving the city of Fez we went through a barren, dry, desert-like area. That would change near Ifrane. Now suddenly there were forests and rolling hills. Green vegetation and beautiful curves have alternated with a barren landscape.



    Coming into Ifrane

    Bild 2.jpg


    Could be in Europe

    Bild 3.jpg

    We took a break in Ifrane and had coffee and cake. The way the coffee and cake was served and the way it all looked, could have been in Germany, Austria or Switzerland. The little work of art of cake tasted good and the break felt good.

    We then drove to the Ifrane National Park to see the Berber monkeys. To do this, we had to drive about 10 miles northwest and found the park and the Berber monkeys. We spent some time there and watched the animals for some time.



    Forrests and rolling Hills

    Bild 4.jpg


    Berber monkeys

    Bild 5.jpg

    Now we are heading south again and the landscape has changed radically again. The two following pictures are just 13 minutes apart ...

    Bild 6.jpg



    13 minutes later ….
    Bild 7.jpg



    Crossing in Zaida, we had to take the N13 ...

    Bild 8.jpg

    Small refreshment….

    Bild 9.jpg


    To be continued...

    Attached Files:

    #25
    lvscrvs, scudo, BillUA and 4 others like this.
  6. MrBob

    MrBob On a whim Supporter

    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2005
    Oddometer:
    24,637
    Location:
    Wisconsin?
    I'm saving my money and following the resurgence of Covid 19, so I'm hoping it will be safe to travel in the autumn.
    #26
  7. tomcat9

    tomcat9 Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2011
    Oddometer:
    121
    Location:
    El Paso, Tx
    We still had a long way to go. After leaving Ifrane we crossed the Middle Atlas. We left the mountains and drove now on a flat hot plain and continued on the N13 road via Midelt into the eastern foothills of the High Atlas.

    bild 11.jpg

    Here we leave the flat country and we go into the High Atlas.

    bild 12.jpg


    We're going uphill….

    bild 13.jpg


    Who sees the waving man

    bild 14.jpg


    Morocco is also the land of the storks….

    Bild 15.jpg


    On that day we had deserts, mountains, forests and then also a oase

    bild 16.jpg


    The barren landscape of the High Atlas

    Bild 17.jpg



    Bild 18.jpg


    It was a long day of driving to Errachidia. We arrived at 6:30 p.m. Now it was time to look for accommodation.
    When we stopped to look for a hotel in the travel guide, the children surrounded us. Tom had as much fun as the kids :-)

    Bild 19.jpg



    The attraction “Tourist”….

    Bild 20.jpg


    We stayed at the Auberge Tinit. I still remember that there was a nice pool and that the rooms were great. The woman who owned it came from Switzerland, as far as I can remember, and founded the hotel in Errachidia. The walls were still built with clay and straw, but in perfect condition.

    It was another eventful day.

    #27
    lvscrvs, scudo, BillUA and 6 others like this.
  8. tomcat9

    tomcat9 Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2011
    Oddometer:
    121
    Location:
    El Paso, Tx
    23 September

    At 8:00 am we went to the motorcycles and loaded them up. With that done we were ready to leave for Merzouga. We had breakfast in a relaxed manner and had a look at the route to Merzouga. We will have about 115 miles ahead of us today. After breakfast we took a few pictures of the hotel and the beautiful pool area and set off at around 09:15am.


    The beautiful pool
    Bild 1.jpg

    The destination was the northern end of the Sahara, more precisely Merzouga. There we planned to ride with camels into the desert and spend the night there.



    After we left Errachidia, it looked already like a desert, only stony ...

    Bild 2.jpg


    After a little more than 20 miles there was a huge oasis. Suddenly everything was full of palm trees as far as you can see.



    Ouled Chaker Oase

    Bild 3.jpg


    We followed this sea of palmes for about 20 miles.

    Green, green and more green…. and in between these ancient buildings made of clay and straw ...

    Bild 4.jpg

    Refueling was done in Erfoud, and in Morocco refueling is done by the tank attendants. And Tom’s gas station attendant was a little distracted and did not stop when the tank was full. There was first a petrol shower and then a normal shower for the bike…

    Bild 5.jpg

    In Erfoud there is a royal palace and this entrance gate is accordingly beautiful. As you can see again, with green roof tiles.

    Bild 6.jpg

    After we left Erfoud, we went towards the Sahara. The area became more and more inhospitable ...

    Bild 7.jpg

    Here you can already see that the sand mountains are pretty high, impressive….

    Bild 8.jpg

    Next to the street, you don't see this every day….

    Bild 9.jpg

    We arrived at the hotel around noon. We asked about the price and the modalities for the trip with the camels and when we had booked everything we spent the afternoon at the pool.


    We booked the ride with the camels into the desert. It should start at 5:00 p.m. The goal was a "tent city" in the desert. There is dinner, music and the night in the tent. In the morning, before sunrise, we will start to ride back to the hotel and there will be a late breakfast. We can leave our things in a room in the hotel for that time. It all cost about as much as an overnight stay in a hotel ... OK, that was inexpensive ...

    Bild 10.jpg

    To be continued…
    #28
    DavidM1, scudo, BillUA and 9 others like this.
  9. BCBackRoads

    BCBackRoads Travels with Gumby

    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2008
    Oddometer:
    654
    Location:
    Kelowna, BC
    Thanks for the trip report. I'm really enjoying it. We did a bus tour in 2009 that included a week in Morocco. I spent the whole time on the bus wishing that I were on my bike. Your photos are bringing back a lot of memories.
    Wayne
    #29
  10. solitary1

    solitary1 Long timer

    Joined:
    Jun 21, 2010
    Oddometer:
    1,138
    Location:
    northern england
    Great write up,hoping to get back there next year,fantastic place to ride.
    #30
  11. tomcat9

    tomcat9 Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2011
    Oddometer:
    121
    Location:
    El Paso, Tx
    Sure thing, that's what reports are for. I also read a report about Morocco here and that's why I started to write this report. I am now reliving the whole tour....:clap


    Thanks, I'll keep my fingers crossed for you ...
    #31
  12. tomcat9

    tomcat9 Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2011
    Oddometer:
    121
    Location:
    El Paso, Tx
    And we started shortly after 5:00 p.m. directly behind our hotel. We exchanged the horsepower for exactly one camel strength. The group consisted of 6 riders. The three of us, the guide and two others. From the hotel it was normal rocky terrain, but after a few hundred yards it was the Sahara. Finest sand and huge dunes. There were a lot of fun vehicles around here at the entrance to the Sahara.

    It was still warm but the sun was about to set. The desert is well visited here. Many walked up the dunes, what looked exhausting. The mountains of sand are enormous. We followed comfortably our guide.

    There were also breaks while the sun settled on the dunes before it set completely. We weren't the only caravan in the desert sands.


    Red sand, tire tracks and people. The people in the back of the picture look like ants….
    Bild 11.jpg

    Footsteps in the red sand

    Bild 12.jpg


    We saw more than three caravans…

    Bild 13.jpg




    Bild 14.jpg


    A break for taking pictures and enjoying the sunset… Our guide is relaxed….

    Bild 15.jpg

    Isn’t she a beauty?

    Bild 16.jpg


    At about 07:30 we arrived at out destination. The place we will spend the night.

    Bild 17.jpg


    First making the bed and unpack the most important stuff…..

    Bild 18.jpg

    We had our dinner in the inner courtyard…. It was good and the Guides played oriental music…

    Bild 19.jpg


    We enjoyed the evening in the desert with the food, the music and the atmosphere.

    Bild 20.jpg

    We called it a night at about 10:30 pm knowing that we will be waken far before sunrise. I slept comfy in my simple, spartan bed. We had to get up really early, so we better used the hours to some sleep…
    #32
    DavidM1, scudo, BillUA and 10 others like this.
  13. manshoon

    manshoon Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2009
    Oddometer:
    585
    Location:
    Pnw
    :lurk
    #33
  14. tomcat9

    tomcat9 Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2011
    Oddometer:
    121
    Location:
    El Paso, Tx

    24. September

    Yes, we got up very early. We took the picture at 6:21 am and by then we were thru our morgen routine and had packed our bags. In such a large group there are always late risers and we still had to wait for them. Even if it was announced the day before that it will be early….

    Bild 1.jpg

    We started the ride back before sunrise and we were together with the other group which was with us at this biwak. Our Guide were leading us while we were waiting for the sunrise

    Bild 2.jpg

    Now everyone is on their way back. The sun is just rising. Unfortunately, it wasn't as nice as I had imagined. But the day started beautifully and we rode towards our breakfast ...

    Bild 3.jpg


    Bild 4.jpg


    Unfortunately we did not take a picture of the breakfast and neither of the room we had to store our things. But I remember that we were very positive about the breakfast buffet. After driving off we took a photo in the village and then drove to the sand dunes to take another picture.

    Bild 5.jpg

    My skills and my tires prevented me to drive into the dunes. So we skipped the crazy ride and drove to a better place to ride off the tarmac.

    Bild 6.jpg

    We tried to take some better pictures with my camera. Tom and Heike went on that short circle drive and I waited to get the picture. Well, I like this picture.

    Bild 7.jpg

    We drove back practically the same way we came here. That means we drove through Erfoud to Errachidia. On the way to Errachidia after Erfoud we saw this dinosaur museum and went straight into it. It was a really hot day and so we welcomed the cool interior.

    Bild 8.jpg


    We used the same hotel that we have been to. We liked the Auberge Tinit very much and so we took it again. There weren't any more pictures taken that day after the museum. I think we checked out the tour for the next day. If I remember correctly, we also had dinner at the Auberge Tinit.


    And tomorrow’s going to "Les gorges du todra", the Todra gorge ...




    #34
    bomose, DavidM1, scudo and 7 others like this.
  15. beltipox

    beltipox Adventurer

    Joined:
    Mar 2, 2008
    Oddometer:
    26
    Location:
    Sicily, hearth of Mediterranean Sea
    Amazing! I’m in...
    #35
    tomcat9 likes this.
  16. tomcat9

    tomcat9 Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2011
    Oddometer:
    121
    Location:
    El Paso, Tx


    25. Septemper

    Today the plan was to drive to Tinghir via Goulmima, Ait Ayoup and Ait Hani. The Todra Gorge is located between Ait Hani and Tinghir and we really wanted to go there.

    After breakfast we left our accommodation in Errachidia at around 0930 a.m. in the direction of Goulmima on the N10.

    The area was a steppe, left and right rubble, sand and very flat. We made our way to Goulmima quickly. The city is located in an oasis and you have seen the green from afar as you come into the city from a small hill. It was just after 10 a.m. when we drove through town and headed for Tadighoust.


    An Arabic word that I could read :-) Maybe the shape gave it away…
    Bild 1.jpg


    Shortly after leaving the city we saw this sign and had to stop to take a picture. As you can see, the name of the district in which we were now is the Tadighoust commune. But it is one of the very few signs on which the Latin, Arabic and Berber scripture is used.

    Bild 2.jpg

    Now the scenery has changed completely. The street was no longer straight. The driving became very varied. We crossed many small villages with the typical Moroccan architectural style. The road meandered through the landscape and it went up and down. The road surface was passable but you had to be careful.

    Here is a passage through the village ...

    Bild 3.jpg

    One of the many views… The old town isn’t occupied as far as I know…

    Bild 4.jpg

    We were still on our way north to get to Amellagou. It was actually the Todra Gorge that we were looking forward to so much. But the P7101 between Goulmima and Amellagou was so beautiful ...

    Bild 5.jpg


    Bild 6.jpg

    It was still before noon and the High Atlas was a great enjoyment ...

    Bild 7.jpg

    That must be the beginning of Amellagou. Now it was getting close to noon and we wanted to take a little break.

    Bild 8.jpg

    Not so inviting, but I least I wasn’t alone….. :-)

    Bild 9.jpg

    We weren’t hungry but needed a break. Mint tea it was, and a muesli bar… ..

    Bild 10.jpg



    The Todra gorge still in front of us....



    To be continued.....
    #36
    scudo, BillUA, MrBob and 5 others like this.
  17. tomcat9

    tomcat9 Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2011
    Oddometer:
    121
    Location:
    El Paso, Tx
    When I read RR from others, I like to follow the route with google maps to see where the writer is.

    I completely forgot to show overviews of the day tours. So here are two selections from Google Maps.

    One is to see where we are in Morocco. We have now arrived in the High Atlas. We have already worked our way to Errachidia from Tangier via Cheefchoauen, Fès and Errachidia with a short in and out to Merzouga.

    Bild 11.png


    Today the route is from Errachidia to Goulmima, then North to Amellagou (north of Tamalout) and from there on the P7103 west and south to Tinghir. The last part, after Tamtetoucht is the Todra Gorge ... But we are now in the area of the junction on the P7103 in Amellagou.

    Bild 12.png

    Just a small overview of where we are in Morocco in the report ...
    #37
    bomose, scudo, BillUA and 7 others like this.
  18. MrKiwi

    MrKiwi Increasingly Grumpy Super Supporter

    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2009
    Oddometer:
    18,718
    Location:
    New Zealand
    Thanks for posting the maps
    #38
    tomcat9 likes this.
  19. tomcat9

    tomcat9 Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2011
    Oddometer:
    121
    Location:
    El Paso, Tx


    ....still 25.September



    Hot mint tea in a hot country. Sounds strange, but it helps against the heat. It was a hot day and so the break felt good. Shortly after noon we went on. The P7103 leads west and it goes to the next curves.

    The straight sections have alternated with the curvy ones, as if you had needed a break from back and forth….

    Now it was a bit straight ahead to get to the next canyon. It was a fantastic day.

    Bild 13.jpg


    I never found out if these buildings were really uninhabited. You feel like you've been transported back a century or two by the sights. A great entrance to the next canyon.

    Bild 14-2.jpg


    Still in the same place, on the right side along the canyon wall.
    Bild 15.jpg

    Here we took a short photo break again.

    You can see the river that created the canyon.
    Bild 16.jpg

    The last three photos were taken within 4 minutes. The density of impressions was enormous.

    We still have to be on our way to Tiidrine here. The road continues to meander through the High Atlas.

    Bild 17.jpg


    The scenery remains exciting. Again a small collection of houses and a little green before we head back into the inhospitable but beautiful landscape.

    Bild 18.jpg

    Now it is already approaching 2:00 p.m. and we get a little hungry ... not only at the sight of this goat ... Goats are the defining species here.

    Bild 19.jpg


    A few minutes after 2 p.m. we come to this place. I think this is Tiidrine. We head for this cafe - restaurant and get a seat. There is no menu card from which you can order. The owner just told us what else he had. That was a Tajine and eggs for omelets….




    So we spontaneously decided on a Tajine and omelettes. There was also bread. And we also needed water. The restaurant was now empty for the day. :-)

    Bild 21.jpg


    As always, I still have my bib on :-)

    Bild 22.jpg


    There was a lot going on on the square. School was just over and we were probably as amazed by the locals as they were amazed by us. We had a really good time with good food, good weather and very friendly people ...



    And now it was just 2:30 pm….
    #39
    scudo, BillUA, MrKiwi and 2 others like this.
  20. tomcat9

    tomcat9 Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2011
    Oddometer:
    121
    Location:
    El Paso, Tx
    ... still 25.September

    Hot mint tea in a hot country. Sounds strange, but it helps against the heat. It was a hot day and so the break felt good. Shortly after noon we went on. The P7103 leads west and it goes to the next curves.

    The straight sections have alternated with the curvy ones, as if you had needed a break from back and forth….


    Now it was a bit straight ahead to get to the next canyon. It was a fantastic day.

    Bild 13.jpg


    I never found out if these buildings were really uninhabited. You feel like you've been transported back a century or two by the sights. A great entrance to the next canyon.

    Bild 14-2.jpg


    Still in the same place, on the right side along the canyon wall

    Bild 15.jpg


    Here we took a short photo break again. You can see the river that created the canyon.

    Bild 16.jpg


    The last three photos were taken within 4 minutes. The density of impressions was enormous.
    We still have to be on our way to Tiidrine here. The road continues to meander through the High Atlas.

    Bild 17.jpg


    The scenery remains exciting. Again a small collection of houses and a little green before we head back into the inhospitable but beautiful landscape.

    Bild 18.jpg


    Now it is already approaching 2:00 p.m. and we get a little hungry ... not only at the sight of this goat ... Goats are the defining species here.

    Bild 19.jpg


    A few minutes after 2 p.m. we come to this place. I think this is Tiidrine. We head for this cafe - restaurant and get a seat. There is no menu card from which you can order. The owner just told us what else he had. That was a Tajine and eggs for omelets….

    Bild 20.jpg


    So we spontaneously decided on a Tajine and omelettes. There was also bread. And we also needed water. The restaurant was now empty for the day. :-)

    Bild 21.jpg


    As always, I still have my bib on :-)

    Bild 22.jpg


    There was a lot going on on the square. School was just over and we were probably as amazed by the locals as they were amazed by us. We had a really good time with good food, good weather and very friendly people ...



    And now it was just 2:30 pm….
    #40
    bomose, scudo and Steve H. like this.